You searched for Grand Seiko - Revolution Watch

The Grand Seiko SBGA497 Honors 20 Years 9R Spring Drive Movement

Lee Sheng — Thu, 08 Feb 2024 08:00:21 +0000

The Grand Seiko SBGA497 Honors 20 Years 9R Spring Drive Movement

Classic Spring Drive with a twist

News

Feb 8, 2024

Grand Seiko made history with the debut of the Spring Drive system in 1999, and once again with its commercialization in a wristwatch in 2004. It has been 20 years since the clever hybrid system of electromagnetic and mechanical 9R movement was introduced. Naturally, this milestone calls for celebration, as expected from the Japanese watchmaker, beginning with the release of some limited editions. Among the latest commemorative watches, one example stands out: the SBGA497 “Pink Snowflake.”

Spring Drive and spring dial

Twenty years of 9R Spring Drive

It’s hard to believe, but the cal. 9R65 is actually the very first Spring Drive 9R movement that debuted in 2004 in the SBGA001 with a champagne dial and SBGA003 with a black dial. Its debut feels like just yesterday, perhaps due to its advanced technology. In fact, it is still a common workhorse found in many new Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches.

A year after the SBGA001 was introduced, Grand Seiko added the SBGA011, which is the original “Snowflake,” to its collection. That would later become the bestseller spring drive watch and perhaps even a cult watch – a must-know reference or model for Grand Seiko’s fans.

Spring blossoms

For the 20th anniversary of the 9R movement family, Grand Seiko has naturally selected the “Snowflake” as a base for design modifications, which makes a lot of sense given the widespread popularity of the “Snowflake.” The latest SBGA497 has a dial with the beautiful snowflake pattern but ironically in a spring instead of winter color – the entire dial has been clad in a cheerful, blossoming pink that adds warmth to the winter-themed pattern.

Aside from the dial, there are also a few details that got changed, but nothing is entirely new, as all the different elements have been found in previous models. There is the gold “GS” logo, which is rather common on limited editions. And more interestingly, the SBGA497 boasts a striking red power reserve hand reminiscent of the limited edition SBGA129 “Redflake” produced for the Association Japan de la Haute Horlogerie, a Japan domestic market limited edition that has gained massive popularity.

Classic design language of the Spring Drive series

The rest of the watch is just like the standard “Snowflake,” featuring elements such as the titanium case and bracelet. It’s worth mentioning that the latest models share the same case design as the inaugural SBGA001, with a wide, high-polished bevel running along the case side. Also retained are the familiar trapezoid markers at the quarters, a signature design found in the earliest Spring Drive watches as well as many modern ones.

Furthermore, the classic cal. 9R65 movement is retained. While some may have hoped for additional innovations in an anniversary model, the inclusion of the cal. 9R65 movement feels fitting, as it is the exact same movement found in the very first model of the Spring Drive wristwatch lineup.

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGA497

Movement: 9R65; automatic; 72 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, and power reserve indicator
Case: 41 x 12.5 mm; titanium; water resistant to 100 m
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Availability: At boutiques and select retailers starting March 2024
Limited edition: 1,500 pieces
Price: USD 6,300

Feature

By Cheryl Chia

The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

Jan 25, 2024

News

By Stephen Pulvirent

Photo Report: Grand Seiko GS9 Experience 2023 in Los Angeles

Nov 10, 2023

News

By Felix Scholz

Grand Seiko offers three new flavors of the 44GS, just for the US

Nov 8, 2023

News

By Rob Nudds

The Grand Seiko SBGW297 and SBGW299 focus on the details

Oct 13, 2023

News

By Bhanu Chopra

Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 GMT watches commemorate 25 years of Caliber 9S

Aug 24, 2023

FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post The Grand Seiko SBGA497 Honors 20 Years 9R Spring Drive Movement appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

Cheryl Chia — Thu, 25 Jan 2024 09:00:09 +0000

The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

A guide to Grand Seiko’s 9S family of movements, culminating in the latest 9SC5 in the Tentagraph, the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph.

Feature

By Cheryl Chia

Jan 25, 2024

Grand Seiko’s well-earned reputation for technical quality, innovation and foresight precedes it. In the past three years alone, it has built the wonderfully impressive Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon (SLGT001), featuring a tourbillon and a co-axially integrated remontoir, as well as developed an impressive high performance movement, the 9SA5, bringing to market a brand-new escapement — a feat as rare in watchmaking as finding a four-leaf clover in a concrete jungle. Last year, the brand introduced the Tentagraph, its first mechanical chronograph that benefits from the exceptional foundation of the 9SA5.

Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon (SLGT001)

Grand Seiko Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001

As the high-end expression of one of the world’s greatest watch companies, Grand Seiko embodies a philosophy rooted in crafting timepieces of impeccable quality that seamlessly blend traditional craftsmanship and cutting- edge technology. Above all, these watches stand as paragons of reliability and precision — a reflection of the Japanese industrial tradition’s relentless pursuit of refining every aspect of an object to a state of transcendent perfection.

Since Grand Seiko expanded beyond its domestic market in 2010, there has been a growing recognition that Grand Seiko watches, as evident in the quality of their cases, dials, hands and movements, give up nothing to their Swiss counterparts.

Historically, the brand was the preserve of mechanical watches produced in small numbers, but today it represents the pinnacle of three distinct branches of technical accomplishment. The first is the 9F ultra high accuracy, thermo-compensated quartz movements introduced in 1993, followed by the 9R Spring Drive movement with automatic winding, unveiled in 2004 — both produced by Seiko Epson, formerly Suwa Seikōsha. The third is the 9S mechanical movement by Seiko Instruments, formerly Daini Seikōsha, engineered to rival the very best of Swiss watchmaking. While all three groups of movements exemplify a level of finesse and care in construction that is worthy of equal admiration, our attention today will be directed toward the 9S family of movements as they celebrate their 25th anniversary this year.

A new beginning: The 9S55 and 9S65

In 1998, the introduction of the caliber 9S at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Iwate prefecture represented Grand Seiko’s first mechanical movement since 1976, marking the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking at the brand. It was also that year where Grand Seiko updated the now famous “Grand Seiko Standard” of a mean daily rate of between -3/+5 seconds, initially established in 1966. All 9S calibers today undergo an extensive 17-day testing process, evaluated in six positions — surpassing the standard set by the dominant industry testing body, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), which is a 15-day examination and in five positions. Likewise, temperature assessments are more demanding, requiring movements to achieve superior accuracy levels of ±0.5 seconds per day per degree Celsius within specific temperature ranges (between 8°C and 23°C, and between 23°C and 38°C), compared to the COSC’s ±0.6 seconds per day per degree Celsius standard.

Right from the outset, the 9S family of movements were intended to compete in terms of performance and finishing with the best mass-produced automatic movements on the market, such as those of Rolex and Patek Philippe. It was the first movement family to benefit from Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) technology. CAD software allowed engineers and designers to create detailed virtual models of movements and gear profiles, while CAM software assisted in turning those designs into physical prototypes or finished parts by controlling machining tools and processes. These systems helped optimize the product development cycle, improving precision, efficiency, and accuracy in manufacturing while making genuine improvements from previous movement designs.

The first generation of 9S5X calibers launched in 1998 was designed to provide a beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour while delivering an extended power reserve of 50 hours, surpassing the standard 45 to 48 hours found in a majority of movements on the market at that time. It differed on a fundamental level from the 5600 and 5200 family of calibers, which powered the Lord Matic, King Seiko and Grand Seiko watches until 1976, as it was designed with a directly driven central seconds, with the fourth wheel located in the center of the movement — an indication that it was built from the ground up as a modern caliber. It was also equipped with automatic bi-directional winding via Seiko’s patented Magic Lever system which boasts a simplicity in design that contributes to its overall robustness.

The 9S caliber was initially introduced in two versions: the time-only 9S51 and the 9S55 with date. A manual winding version, the 9S54, was introduced in 2001 followed by a GMT version, the 9S56, in 2002. In 2010, Grand Seiko made significant improvements to the caliber, notably increasing its power reserve to 72 hours, resulting in the 9S65. The fundamental gear train arrangement remains identical to its predecessor, with a directly driven central seconds. However, the escape wheel and pallet fork are fabricated using the microelectromechanical systems (MEMS) process known as LIGA, the German acronym for Lithographie, Galvanoformung, Abformung (“lithography, electroplating, molding”), an additive microelectromechanical technique that allows for extreme precision and intricate shapes. The resulting escapement is made up of parts skeletonized to minimize inertia.

Grand Seiko SBGR001 with calibre 9S55 (Image: eBay)

Caliber 9S65

The significance of the escape wheel’s inertia lies in its positioning at the end of the gear train. It is therefore the fastest wheel in the movement and also the one with the least torque, being the furthest away from the mainspring. Its inertia is multiplied by the number of turns it has to make for every revolution of the fourth wheel. Thus, despite its typically lightweight and small size, the escape wheel’s inertia exerts the most influence among all the wheels in the going train. As such, reducing its inertia plays a huge role in extending its power reserve to 72 hours. In addition, both the mainspring and hairspring utilize an advanced series of Spron alloys — the Spron 610, composed of iron, nickel, chromium, cobalt, niobium and titanium. It exhibits increased strength and hardness, along with an exceptional resistance to magnetism, corrosion and temperature fluctuations, essentially sharing similar properties to silicon without the brittleness. Its high elasticity also ensures it does not deform easily and therefore maintains its mechanical properties and performance over extended use.

The 610 Spron mainspring offers greater strength and resistance to magnetism, temperature fluctuations and corrosion

While its predecessor used Seiko’s Magic Lever mechanism, the caliber 9S65 employs a reverser gear train, which has less play or backlash. Pawls and ratchet wheel, compared to precisely meshed gear teeth in regular gears, could contribute to minor energy losses through increased friction or less direct power transfer. Reversers sit on posts so the alignment of teeth between each reverser wheel is fixed and better engaged. Additionally, the reverser mechanism is made up of hardened components to increase its strength, durability and resistance to wear.

Grand Seiko has since filled out an entire family of movements around the 9S65, which includes the automatic 9S66 GMT version, the manual winding 9S64 as well as the manual winding 9S63 with indirectly driven small seconds.

Caliber 9S64

In pursuit of precision: The 9S85

During the Swiss timing trials of the 1960s, Suwa Seikōsha and Daini Seikōsha learned that higher frequency movements were unquestionably superior in maintaining a stable rate. After Seiko’s sweeping victories led to the termination of observatory competitions in 1968, both began introducing Grand Seiko watches with a vibration period of one tenth of a second, that is 36,000 vibrations per hour, which is a useful improvement in daily rate stability, particularly for a wristwatch.

In 2009, Grand Seiko reintroduced high frequency mechanical movements in the form of the 9S85. Compared to the first generation 9S5X series, the Hi-Beat caliber 9S85 not only raised its beat rate to 36,000vph, but notably also extended its power reserve to 55 hours. This was achieved by increasing the diameter of the movement from 25.6mm to 28.4mm, enabling it to accommodate a larger mainspring barrel. Additionally, like the 9S65, the springs at the extreme ends of the wheel train utilize the Spron 610 alloy, which is highly resistant to breakage, strain-induced fatigue and temperature fluctuations. It is nonmagnetic and due to its strength and hardness, offers an even power delivery throughout the course of its power reserve.

An example of classic Grand Seiko watchmaking, the Hi-Beat Calibre 9S85 is a strong and precise movement, designed for longevity

Fundamentally, an increase in frequency, and therefore the angular velocity of the balance, results in an oscillator that is less susceptible to external disturbances. However, a high speed escapement demands greater energy and results in greater friction and wear on the components, essentially causing lubricants to run out faster, which would necessitate more frequent servicing. To mitigate this, both the escape wheel and pallet fork are fabricated using LIGA. The resulting escapement consists of lightweight, corrosion resistant, and nonmagnetic skeletonized components made from nickel-phosphorus. The new escape wheel design also features oil reservoirs at the tip of each gear tooth to improve oil retention. Furthermore, to minimize friction on the pivots in the gear train, an additional wheel was introduced between the fourth wheel and escape wheel to distribute the load. The 9S85 also employs a standard modern reserver system instead of the Magic Lever mechanism to improve transmission efficiency and reduce energy loss.

The nickel-phosphorus escapement produced via LIGA is made up of skeletonised parts to reduce inertia while also having recesses in the escape wheel teeth for oil retention

A triumph in performance: The 9SA5

In 2020, Grand Seiko unleashed a horological tour de force with the debut of the Hi-Beat 9SA5 movement equipped with a brand-new escapement. In keeping with Grand Seiko’s generally unassuming approach to product names, it is simply called the Dual Impulse escapement.

The Caliber 9SA5, a triumph both aesthetically and mechanically

In watchmaking today, almost all wristwatch escapements, excluding the detent escapement, fall under the category of dual impulse escapements which refers to their ability to deliver two impulses to the balance wheel at each cycle — one at each vibration. This characteristic is pivotal in the development of a modern and practical escapement capable of withstanding external perturbations effectively in a wristwatch.

However, the main difference between each of these dual impulse escapements lies in the way power is delivered to the balance wheel. The main purpose of an escapement is to regulate the discharge of energy by the mainspring, resulting in the turning of the hands, as well as to transmit energy to the balance wheel. In turn, the escape wheel is released and therefore controlled by the oscillation of the balance wheel, which sets a standard for accuracy. The lever escapement has enjoyed an unparalleled dominance in watchmaking since it was invented around 1755 by Englishman Thomas Mudge. It is particularly suited for wristwatches due to its ability to provide two impulses per cycle and self-start, along with its solidity and high degree of detachment, meaning, unlike earlier escapements such as the verge or cylinder escapement, the escape wheel locks free of the balance after delivering energy through the impulse jewel, leaving the balance free during all of its supplementary arc of travel.

However, despite its excellent performance in the short term, its primary flaw that plagued the most genius minds in the annals of horology is its need for lubrication. Both impulses are transmitted indirectly via a lever, which is in turn propelled by the force of the escape wheel teeth contacting the pallet jewels of the lever. The pallet jewels momentarily stop the escape wheel’s rotation and then release it, imparting energy to the balance wheel through the pallet fork. The sliding interaction between the pallet jewels and the escape wheel teeth is essential for controlling the release of energy and regulating the movement of the gear train. However, this sliding action generates friction between these components, making the surfaces vulnerable to wear and tear, rendering lubrication crucial. The inevitable deterioration of an applied lubricant, in turn, has adverse effects on accuracy.

As such, the detent escapement, also known as the chronometer escapement, remained preferred for specialized applications like marine chronometers due to their oil-free operation and direct impulse, offering exceptional accuracy in stationary or controlled environments. However, the primary setback preventing the use of detent escapements in wristwatches is that, unlike the lever escapement, impulse is provided in a single direction — once per oscillation. This design trait renders the detent escapement non-self-starting. In the event the balance is stopped — whether inadvertently or deliberately — the detent escapement cannot resume without assistance, requiring gentle shaking to restart the balance’s oscillation. Furthermore, the delicate detent that locks the escape wheel is prone to disruption by shocks, potentially causing premature unlocking of the escape wheel.

The Dual Impulse Escapement

Hence, many alternative escapements in the market today serve to combine the direct impulse delivery of the detent escapement and the robustness and self-starting ability of the lever escapement. But to dethrone the lever escapement, the design of the new escapement ultimately requires a level of maturity and adaptability to industrial production on top of offering the additional advantage of the elimination or reduction of oil, making such an endeavor an uphill battle that, when conquered, earns its spot in the horological hall of fame.

The only alternative escapement that has been successfully realized on an industrial scale is the Co-Axial escapement invented by George Daniels in 1976, more than two centuries after the invention of the lever escapement. The Co-Axial met all the criteria of a modern, practical escapement. It delivers two impulses to the balance at each cycle, is self-starting and free from the need for lubrication. However, its drawback lies in its somewhat delicate construction, necessitating a pair of co-axially mounted escape wheels which increases inertia and demands care in adjustment to ensure concentricity.

Grand Seiko’s Dual Impulse escapement shares similar qualities to both the Swiss lever as well as the Co-Axial. Like both escapements, the Dual Impulse escapement provides two impulses per cycle — one at each vibration — making it resistant to shocks. But while the lever escapement provides two impulses indirectly via a lever, both the Co-Axial and the Dual Impulse escapement adopts a mixed impulse system: one impulse is given directly to the balance wheel, while the other is delivered indirectly through a lever. This setup therefore suggests that the quality of both impulses might potentially vary, although this is more abstract than a real-life problem.

In this regard, it is impossible to overlook the independent double-wheel escapement, developed by George Daniels as a solution to the natural escapement that eluded Breguet. It is theoretically superior as two escape wheels impulse the balance in opposite directions directly at each cycle, making its power delivery extremely efficient. However, the basic principles of this system, where each escape wheel necessitates its own gear train, proved limiting to the design of the movement as a whole, and the complexity of its construction makes it impossible to industrialize.

While the Co-Axial and Dual Impulse escapements share a fundamental similarity in that one impulse is given directly, their distinction lies in the method of indirect delivery. The Co-Axial employs radial impulse and therefore does not require lubrication. Conversely, the Dual Impulse escapement utilizes a familiar sliding action to deliver impulse to the lever. This reintroduces the need for lubrication, albeit minimal — half that of the Swiss lever. In other words, it offers far greater efficiency compared to the Swiss lever, while being simpler and less finicky than the Co-Axial, requiring just one escape wheel.

Crucially, the Dual Impulse escapement was also designed to operate with low inertia. The pallet fork and lever are produced using LIGA, allowing components to be fabricated with extreme precision, resulting in its intricate, skeletonized geometries that are lighter to ensure quicker acceleration of parts, which is more crucial in a high-beat movement.

The performance gains in the low-inertia, low-friction Dual Impulse escapement translate to a longer power reserve as well as a high beat rate of 36,000vph in the caliber 9SA5 — properties that vary inversely and are rarely found in the same movement. The oscillator also represents several firsts for Grand Seiko — the balance wheel is free sprung, secured on both ends by a balance bridge for greater stability, and is attached to an overcoil hairspring with a proprietary curve developed through over 80,000 computer simulations.

The rest of the movement was designed with a great sense of purpose and logic. Overall, it is slightly wider than the 9S85 to accommodate a pair of serially coupled barrels while being 15 percent slimmer at just 5.18mm high. This is achieved with thinner mainsprings. With a highly efficient escapement, the strength of the mainspring can be reduced to lessen the load and wear on the pivots and wheels, thereby extending service intervals and reducing running costs for the wearer. Additionally, the serially coupled barrels are directly geared to each other as opposed to being connected via an additional wheel, further reducing inertia.

It also features an unusual horizontal gear train arrangement. The gear train consists of five wheels instead of three as the escape wheel has fewer teeth. As such, it is the fifth wheel that drives the centrals seconds directly. Rather than increasing the number of teeth on the escape wheel to achieve a higher beat, two additional wheels were added to distribute the load across more wheels, mitigating wear on the pivots and wheels. Typically, in a movement with serially coupled barrels, the second wheel, which drives the minutes, is located in the middle, overlapping the barrel. But to reduce the height of the movement, the barrel drives a second wheel located on the right of the movement when viewed from the caseback. It is solid rather than spoked for rigidity as it has the greatest load to bear. Beyond that, the design of the movement is as visually attractive as it is remarkably efficient, with a total of four beautifully shaped bridges as well as a skeletonized rotor, allowing the components to be admired. It is also equipped with an instantaneous date-changing mechanism, which switches over in under a second at midnight. All told, the 9SA5 is one of the most sophisticated and impressive automatic movements on the market, offering the exceptionally rare combination of a lengthy power reserve and a high frequency.

Horizontal gear train

The first mechanical chronograph movement: The 9SC5

To the delight of many Grand Seiko devotees this year, the brand introduced its first-ever mechanical chronograph, the Tentagraph (SLGC001). While Grand Seiko has produced chronographs in the past, they were all equipped with Spring Drive movements, demonstrating its penchant for high accuracy chronographs. Given that activating the chronograph would lead to a decrease in balance amplitude, the high performance 9SA5 was perhaps the only worthy base movement in the eyes of Grand Seiko.

Grand Seiko Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001

In the Tentagraph’s 9SC5 movement, the chronograph was built on the superb 9SA5, thereby making it an automatic high frequency chronograph. This means that the 9SC5 movement has a modular construction, where the chronograph plate is located between the calendar plate and the mainplate. While modular chronographs are frequently discussed with less enthusiasm than integrated ones, it is worth keeping in mind that they are often a result of the successful development of a top-tier base movement, which certainly holds true in this instance.

The construction of the chronograph module relies on several tried-and-true approaches characteristic of Grand Seiko’s chronographs. It is governed by a column wheel and relies on a vertical coupling system. It bears remembering that while the El Primero took the lion’s share of attention in the three-way contest to build the world’s first automatic chronograph in 1969, the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer by Suwa Seikōsha was the first column-wheel automatic chronograph to incorporate a vertical clutch. It is arguably the most influential among movement builders despite it being the least known of the three among the general public.

The chronograph module employs a column wheel and a vertical clutch (located next to the chronograph seconds wheel)

The vertical clutch in the 9SC5 comprising of two co- axial intermediate wheels is located slightly off the central axis of the movement. One intermediate wheel is constantly driven by a central extension wheel from the fourth wheel. When the chronograph is activated, two coupling levers releases the clutch, which drives the chronograph seconds wheel, enabling it to rotate together with the extension wheel. Among the other hallmark approaches is the use of a single, integrated three-point reset hammer that zeros all three counters — the chronograph seconds, minutes and hours — at once.

In contrast to the 80-hour power reserve of the 9SA5, the 9SC5 has a power reserve of 72 hours with the chronograph disengaged. This difference arises from the need for an auxiliary train to transfer the central seconds output from the base movement to the running seconds counter positioned at three o’clock. With that said, 72 hours puts it on par with some of the top automatic chronographs on the market while making it the lengthiest among high frequency chronographs. Undoubtedly, this can be attributed to the incredibly efficient Dual Impulse escapement as well as the use of double barrels.

Cased up, the Tentagraph measures 43.2mm wide and 15.3mm high due to the nature of its construction. While it is definitely a large, eye-catching timepiece, it wears comfortably as the case and bracelet are made from the brand’s proprietary high intensity titanium, which is said to be 30 percent lighter and more scratch resistant than stainless steel. The case design incorporates multiple intersecting planes, alternating between satin-brushing and the renowned Zaratsu polish. The tachymeter bezel, on the other hand, is made of ceramic, making it scratch resistant.

The titanium case has multiple facets, alternating between satin-brushing and the renowned Zaratsu polish

The impressive dimensions are further enhanced by the striking dial architecture. It features wide, grooved and faceted indexes, offering outstanding legibility, along with dramatic dauphine hands, with a pronounced tapering towards the tips. Both are filled with Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite, a phosphorescent compound that boasts a brighter and longer lasting glow compared to Super- LumiNova, the standard luminous paint used on most watch dials. The subdials for the counters are deeply recessed and are actually separate inserts, further adding depth to the dial, while their respective hands feature a polished bevel on their hubs. The beautiful dial texture was inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, which is visible from the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, while the rich shade of blue is inspired by the night sky.

The utterly luxurious, elaborately crafted dial with inlaid sub-dials, faceted and grooved indexes, and a distinctive handset

Ultimately, the Tentagraph is a continuum of what Grand Seiko does best, which is to deliver watches that are nuanced and supremely beautiful on the outside while maintaining unquestionable precision and reliability on the inside. Only in this case it boasts the brand’s crowning achievement — the Dual Impulse escapement — which when viewed within the field of chronographs, makes it the only high frequency chronograph with an exotic escapement and also the only chronograph with both a high frequency and long power reserve. As a first outing, it’s pretty neat.

The superb base caliber with four beautifully shaped bridges visible through the sapphire case back

Tech Specs

Grand Seiko Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001

Movement: Self-winding caliber 9SC5; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case: 43.2mm; high intensity titanium with black ceramic bezel; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Blue with “Mt. Iwate” pattern; applied faceted and ridged indexes with LumiBrite coating
Strap: High-intensity titanium bracelet
Price: SGD 19,000

Reference

By Felix Scholz

Cartier: A Santos Story

May 3, 2023

Editor's Picks

By Wei Koh

Ulysse Nardin Freak One: The Rise of the Freaks

Mar 27, 2023

Editor's Picks

By Cheryl Chia

The Way of Resonance

Jan 30, 2023

Editor's Picks

By Ross Povey

Rolex Explorer everything you need to know about

Jun 2, 2021 6 minutes

Editor's Picks

By Cheryl Chia

The Complete History of the Chronograph Movement: 1940s–1980s

Mar 4, 2021

FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Ethos is the powerhouse fueling India’s growth in the watch market

Cheryl Chia — Sat, 20 Jan 2024 06:06:16 +0000

Ethos is the powerhouse fueling India’s growth in the watch market

Watch retailer Ethos paves the way as India emerges as the next frontier for watch market growth.

Feature

By Cheryl Chia

Jan 20, 2024

In the world of watch collecting, talk of India’s increasing sophistication echoes loud. It’s not just the burgeoning interest in watches or their progressively deepening pockets that garners attention, but the profound depth of appreciation.

A clear sign of maturity is their relish for independent watchmaking. It signifies that Indian collectors, increasingly, are pursuing watches not just as symbols of professional achievement or pieces of investment, but also as fine works of art.

At the forefront of this transformative tide reigns the immensely influential retailer, Ethos, which has virtually crafted and molded the luxury watch industry from scratch in the world’s most populous country.

Before 1997, India had enforced a prolonged ban on watch imports to protect the domestic watch industry. As a result, those seeking foreign watches had to purchase them abroad or even engage with smugglers.

Ethos Founder and Chairman, Yashovardhan Saboo

Ethos was founded in 2003 by Chandigarh-based entrepreneur Yashovardhan Saboo, following the Indian government’s decision to permit the import of high value watches on a large scale. Ethos established itself as a key player in this newly opened market, with brands willingly accommodating the high import tariffs by exporting to India at reduced prices, a move aimed at curbing the well-entrenched illegal practice of smuggling in the country by ensuring their watches are priced on par with the global market.

In 2022, Ethos became the first luxury watch retailer in India to be publicly listed.

Ethos’ strategic expansion

Today, Ethos has the largest portfolio of brands in India, with over 60 watch brands spanning Seiko to Urwerk, of which over 45 are exclusively available at Ethos. Operating in more than 60 stores encompassing both multi- and mono-brand boutiques spread across 23 cities in India, the retailer has played a pivotal role in cultivating a watch culture, as well as shaping the tastes and preferences of the public in an impressive and undeniable way.

The retailer strategically enters even smaller yet crucial Indian cities like Raipur and Siliguri, with the aim of tapping into emerging market potential and growing consumer interest in luxury items in these vital urban centers. But its job is not done. Ethos is set to unveil an additional 30 to 35 stores across new and existing cities as part of its rapid-fire, but thoughtful, expansion stride in the coming years.

The Ethos Summit Store in The Chanakya Mall in New Delhi, India

This expansion spree is well-founded and propelled by several factors. To begin with, there’s a rapid ascent in wealth and income levels among the upper echelons of Indian society.

This shift in the economic landscape has created a burgeoning market for luxury goods, including watches, encouraging Ethos to cater to the growing demands of this prosperous clientele.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Ethos Watch Boutiques (@ethoswatches)

Secondly, there is a noticeable trend among consumers who now recognize the benefits of purchasing watches within India. This change in perception is primarily due to the comparable pricing and extensive variety of watches available, aligning the Indian market more closely with the offerings of other global cities.

Furthermore, the added advantage of local after-sales services has become a significant factor influencing consumer choices. In 2019, Ethos opened its state-of-the-art service center in Saket, New Delhi, which boasts a team of engineers who possess the capability to service all brands in its diverse portfolio on-site.

Saboo points out, “We engage professionally qualified watchmakers with experience and they are further trained by our partner brands. As for spare watch components, we procure them from the brand that we have been authorised to service.”

Enhanced shopping experience

In response to the evolving consumer habits that were only accelerated by the pandemic, Ethos has continuously and strategically strengthened its digital presence. This proactive approach allows the company to provide customers with an immersive and simply outstanding online experience.

Ethos’ website stands out for its exceptional comprehensiveness, sophistication, and user-friendly interface. Apart from displaying its entire catalog of watches, the website offers an advanced watch finder, enabling users to effortlessly explore the extensive range of choices available.

This feature facilitates a seamless and tailored shopping experience, catering to the diverse preferences of customers.

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Ganges India, an exclusive model for Ethos

In addition, Ethos also recognizes the importance of exposition and education. The website hosts an extensive watch journal, The Watch Guide, which serves as a valuable resource for watch enthusiasts, encompassing a variety of content, including news, reviews, interviews, and a watch glossary.

In fact, a swift perusal of its website hints at one undeniable truth: it is possibly the best multi-brand retailer website in the industry.

The Second Movement boutique in New Delhi, India

At the same time, as the pre-owned market came of age during the pandemic, Ethos swiftly embraced it with a new venture, Second Movement. The standalone brand consists of a high -functioning online marketplace that offers a secure channel for the selling, buying, and trading of pre-owned watches.

It is supported by a brick-and-mortar Second Movement boutique located in New Delhi, which is home to the largest range of pre-owned watches in India.

Today, Ethos continues to nurture a vibrant watch community through frequent event hosting, fostering a culture that deeply appreciates the art of watchmaking. It also facilitates the development of exclusive limited- edition watches, exclusively available at Ethos, for the Indian market, demonstrating its role in building a sense of connection and appreciation between the brand and the collector, thereby enriching the overall watch-collecting experience in India.

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), often referred to as the Oscars of the watch world, stands as one of the most prestigious events in the watch industry. In the 2022 edition, Ethos founder and chairman, Yashovardhan Saboo, was a part of the GPHG jury, making him the first Indian to join this esteemed panel.

Ethos Founder and Chairman, Yashovardhan Saboo (middle) with the 2022 GPHG Jury
Ethos CEO, Pranav Saboo

Concurrently, his son, Pranav, who is CEO of Ethos, holds a membership in the academy. Ethos also achieved a significant milestone by hosting the GPHG travelling exhibition in New Delhi for the first time in 2014 and again in 2022, showcasing the epitome of watchmaking excellence.

At the end of it all, it is impossible not to come away with the conclusion that, unlike the average retailer, Ethos possesses both the guts and smarts — an unstoppable drive coupled with an astute, completist approach — that has steered not just the company, but also India to new heights in the horological world.

Feature

By Allyson Klass

The story of Pisa Orologeria’s legacy since 1940

Jan 27, 2024

News

By Allyson Klass

How EsperLuxe’s founder transformed his passion into a successful business

Jan 26, 2024

Feature

By Cheryl Chia

Les Ambassadeurs on setting up shop in the world’s richest country

Jan 25, 2024

Feature

By Allyson Klass

Definitely Doux: A stalwart in France’s luxury watch and jewelry scene

Jan 24, 2024

Feature

By Allyson Klass

Is Stephen Silver transforming Silicon Valley into the next luxury landmark?

Jan 23, 2024

From the Shop

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Ethos is the powerhouse fueling India’s growth in the watch market appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Revolution’s Top 20 Retailers

Revolution — Wed, 17 Jan 2024 14:00:46 +0000

Revolution’s Top 20 Retailers

From the strongest market leaders to the brightest individual stars, the business of luxury watch retail has never been more dynamic.

Feature

By Revolution

Jan 17, 2024

If the luxury media are regarded as the storytellers of fine living, decoding the spirit and essence of good taste for the consumer through slick glossies, hyper-visual reels and smart listicles, then the retailers would naturally be the culture tellers of our time. For it is the retailer who, with razor-sharp insights on the market, knows what it is that drives collectors wild with frenzy, and who, with strong relationships with the different manufactures, knows when, where and how the industry is evolving.

Good retailers in particular are more than mere middlemen, inasmuch as all of them do represent that last-mile connection between brand and customer. On top of the requisite wide product offering and great service quality, the separation of the proverbial wheat from chaff in the retail business happens when passion and personality enter the equation.

Because when there’s passion, the retailer becomes an active participant in the fine watchmaking industry — and this is undoubtedly an industry that so capably stokes the fire in our hearts. A retailer with a strong personality, whether that comes from a dynamic company founder or a team of dedicated visionaries, is one that forms true bonds with the watch buyers, so that they grow together in their journey as enthusiasts or collectors.

And to that we say, there’s no better time to commend that than now. We are proud to present Revolution’s Top 20 Retailers, a select company of heroes, from family-run global enterprises to the dedicated individuals who dominate their corner of the region, all of whom represent the best voices in the business, and whose influence, passion, and drive to educate and cultivate the very best of watch culture, we laud their efforts in elevating the watch community to where it is today.

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

The world and indeed the Middle East was a very different place when Ahmed Qasim Seddiqi started his watch business in 1950. From humble beginnings buying and selling watches out of his cabinet before starting his own shop in Dubai’s Old Souk (traditional market), to becoming one of the first retailers for Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet in the Middle East, and supplying more than 90 percent of the world’s luxury Swiss watch brands in that market in the years following, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons has come a long way, respected as a pioneer of luxury retailing in the Middle East, and one of the reasons behind the UAE’s rise as one of the top shopping destinations of the world.

Presently, the company remains a family business, operated by the second, third and fourth generations of the Seddiqi family. It now boasts a portfolio of over 80 luxury timepiece and jewelry brands that range in value from premium to high luxury, sold through more than 50 locations throughout the UAE.

The biennial Dubai Watch Week, organized by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

These include the largest Rolex store in the world, and other mono-brand stores including Patek Philippe, Chopard, Hublot, Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, TAG Heuer, Tudor and Breitling. Cementing its reputation further as a pioneer and leader in the watch community in this part of the world, the Seddiqi family are also the organizers of Dubai Watch Week, which saw its first edition in 2015 and has since become an important date in the watch community’s calendar, when the world of watchmaking and watchmaking culture descends on Dubai for an exchange of knowledge, ideas and the furtherance of timepiece appreciation.

Cortina Watch

One of Singapore’s largest luxury watch retailers in Singapore, it grew from a single shop started by Anthony Lim in the now-defunct Columbo Court building in 1972, to what is today a public-listed group — Cortina Holdings Limited — with more than 40 stores in the region, covering Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Australia, Taiwan and Hong Kong. These include monobrand stores for such brands as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Jacob & Co, Franck Muller, IWC, Panerai, Tudor and TAG Heuer, covering a comprehensive spread of the luxury tier of the watch market.

Its Patek Philippe boutique in Taipei 101, Taiwan is the largest in Asia.

The largest Patek Philippe boutique in Asia is located at Taipei 101 in Taiwan, and is operated by Cortina Watch

From making strategic inroads into the region and going on to becoming a public-listed enterprise in 2002, another milestone in the company’s growth is its acquisition of another major Singapore-based luxury watch retailer, Sincere Watch, in 2021, for S$85 million. It is understood from Cortina’s company reports that Cortina’s main focus would be on international luxury brands, while Sincere Watch lays a greater spotlight on (but not restricted to) boutique brands and independents, the likes of Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., and Laurent Ferrier.

As of financial year 2023, Cortina Holdings saw a 15 percent growth in revenue to S$827 million, for a 13 percent rise in net profit to S$84 million; on a net worth of some S$382 million.

Sincere Fine Watches

Founded in 1954, Singapore’s oldest luxury watch retailer was not just the go-to for the top brands of the day, but was also a forward-thinking champion of independent watchmaking, playing a significant role in the success of such brands as Franck Muller and F.P. Journe before they became the runaway successes that they are today. The last two decades have seen the company change hands more than a few times, and the dust looks to have settled after its acquisition by Cortina Holdings in 2021, setting the storied retailer on a stable footing for ambitious plans afoot.

For starters, Sincere Haute Horlogerie, a specialist boutique dedicated to independent watchmaking that Sincere operated from 2005 to 2016 was brought back in September 2022 and rebranded SHH (the old name was “a bit of a mouthful!” according to CEO Ong Ban), with a new concept boutique at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore.

Brands showcased here include Greubel Forsey, Grönefeld, Chopard L.U.C, Laurent Ferrier, Armin Strom, Lang & Heyne, and Czapek & Cie. New SHH boutiques have been added since, in Malaysia, Thailand and Taiwan.

The SHH flagship boutique in Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

Sincere had been a long-time advocate of horological education and appreciation, with collectors’ events and workshops, and it’s been reported that there are plans to bring back the much-missed Sincere Watch Academy next year to mark Sincere’s 70th anniversary.

The company presently has more than 23 boutiques and points-of-sale across Asia and Australia, with a portfolio of some 40 brands, with around half of these brands available for purchase/order via its online store.

Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry

Established in 1980 by gemologist Stephen Silver, the company began as an estate jewelry business in the Silicon Valley area, where over the course of the last four decades, Silver established for himself a reputation as one of the world’s leading experts in asset-class-colored gemstones and museum quality jewelry. Notable stones that passed through his hands include the Cullinan Blue Diamond necklace, a historic piece he went on to purchase and donate to the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, and the Pink Promise Diamond, which after Silver’s recut achieved a price-per-carat world record at auction in 2017.

Silver was subsequently joined by his son Jared Silver, who extended the business into the timepiece sphere by developing and launching the company’s timepiece division in 2014. In step with the company’s high and fine jewelry offerings, the timepiece division focused on rare and exceptional marques, drawn mainly from the who’s who of independent watchmaking. These include MB&F, Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie, Urwerk, and Laurent Ferrier.

Presently, the company is a vertically integrated, global wholesale manufacture and retail operation with emphasis on diamond and colored stone cutting, custom design services, and rare, collectible timepieces. Besides a boutique located in Silicon Valley at Rosewood Sand Hill resort in Menlo Park, the company also operates a private showroom and offices in Redwood City.

Major expansion is in store for 2024, which involves a 35,000-square-foot mixed-use retail and dining development that will house a mix of flagship mono-brand boutiques, a unique members’ club-like showroom, Michelin-starred gastronomic experiences, and more.

Ethos

India’s largest luxury watch retail chain opened its first store in 2003 and after becoming a public limited company in 2007, has averaged more than two new boutique openings every year for the last 20 years, totalling more than 60 multi-brand boutiques and mono-brand shops across 23 cities in India. Thereafter, the company became public listed in 2022. The chain offers a broad swathe of luxury timepieces from major international brands to a smattering of independent watchmakers, numbering more than 60 at last count.

Ethos also offers certified pre-owned luxury watches.

Explains Chairman and Managing Director Yashovardhan Saboo, “We believe that our growth potential is inextricably interwoven with India’s rise on the global economic and consumption landscape… We aim to capitalize on the growing demand for entry- level products as well as middle to high range products in the premium and luxury segment by expanding our retail footprint.”

Ethos boutique in New Delhi, India

In addition to its physical stores in Tier 1 and Tier 2 cities in India, the large volume of merchandise on offer is also, with some exceptions, available for purchase via the Ethos website, which, considering the volume of goods and content being served, is a study of utility and efficiency.

As we understand from the company’s 2022/2023 annual report, Ethos Watch Boutiques has a net worth of INR 6,320 million (USD 76 million), and total assets of INR 8,800 million (USD 106 million). Revenue grew 27 percent over the last financial year, to INR 7,890 million (USD 95 million).

The 1916 Company

In November 2023, Watchbox founders Danny Govberg and Justin Reis unveiled The 1916 Company, a new venture that aims to become the leading global destination and community for fine watches, jewelry, and education. This new enterprise is the result from the merger of renowned brands including WatchBox, Govberg, Radcliffe, and Hyde Park Jewelers.

In addition, The 1916 Company seeks to unite the primary and secondary markets under a single, cohesive brand, incorporating over 20 boutiques and Collector’s Lounges in major watch markets across the globe.

WatchBox founders, Tay Liam Wee (left), Justin Reis (middle) , and Danny Govberg (right)

The name “The 1916 Company” pays homage to the legacy of Albert Govberg, the founder of Govberg Jewelers in Philadelphia in 1916. Danny Govberg, Co- founder, Executive Chairman, and grandson of Albert, described the company as a “107-year-old start-up” with a commitment to enduring relationships and innovative change, catering to the evolving needs of discerning watch collectors.

The company has also joined the official network authorized to sell Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches, expanding its offerings for watch collectors. Meanwhile, pre-owned Rolex timepieces will no longer be presented on WatchBox.

The WatchBox boutique in Boca Raton, Florida

The new entity leverages the strengths and legacies of the largest pre-owned platform, combined with the expertise of three independent jewelers. The company’s presence encompasses various locations, including multi-brand salons and mono-brand boutiques across the United States; John Shmerler and Damon Gross will lead the authorized retail network of The 1916 Company.

The company boasts a pre-owned collection valued at over $200 million, with a particular focus on ultra-rare and collectible timepieces, as well as artisanal independent watchmaking.

Bucherer

For its sheer size, when Bucherer makes the headlines, it feels as if such a great weight has shifted that the industry’s foundations are perceptibly rocked. In 2018, Bucherer, one of the largest retailers of fine watches and jewelry in Europe, acquired Tourneau, then the largest luxury watch retailer in the U.S.

This exercise brought a staggering number of stores within the Bucherer fold on both ends of the Atlantic, plus a well-stocked online watch shop serving the domestic U.S. market. Then in August 2023, Rolex — the largest luxury watch brand in the world — announced that it had acquired Bucherer, the largest watch retailer in the world with more than 100 stores worldwide.

The TimeDome boutique in Las Vegas

Even as the completion of the acquisition by Rolex awaits the blessings of the competent authorities, changes have already been felt, with more to come in a developing story. Bucherer had its beginnings as a family business which opened its first watch and jewelry store in 1888, in Lucerne, Switzerland.

In 1924, the company added Rolex to its portfolio, a relationship that continues to the present day. Besides retail, it also launched the Carl F. Bucherer brand of watches in 2001.

Bucherer-exclusive editions, in collation with Girard-Perregaux and Hublot

Bucherer’s watch portfolio consists of some 40 watchmaking brands. These include Rolex, Biver, Cartier, Grand Seiko, Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Oris and Tudor.

It also offers certified pre-owned watches from several brands including Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Omega and IWC.

The Hour Glass

Just as the Singapore watch market punches way above its weight class, The Hour Glass founded here in 1979 has grown so far in scale that it is more properly labeled a regional watch retailer as opposed to a local business, with more than 60 boutiques spread across 12 cities in the Asia-Pacific, including Australia, Japan, Vietnam and Hong Kong. These comprise The Hour Glass multi-brand boutiques, mono-brand stores for the likes of Rolex, Patek Philippe, MB&F, Hublot, and Grand Seiko, as well as stores operated by the Watches of Switzerland local retail chain which The Hour Glass purchased in 2014 to extend its reach into suburban retail landscape and the premium tier of watches, as an alternative to its largely high luxury and independent watch brands.

According to its annual report for the 2023 financial year, revenue for the group grew by nine percent to exceed SGD 1 billion dollars. Profit after tax grew 10 percent to SGD 174 million, and net asset value stood at SGD 774 million.

The Hour Glass Malmaison along Knightsbridge in Singapore

Besides the scale, performance, and the constellation of the most prestigious watch brands in its portfolio, The Hour Glass is also a recognized leader in its field for doing things a little differently for the furtherance of watchmaking culture. Beyond the usual watchmaker meets for collectors, it also organized the Tempus watch fairs in the 2000s which brought the Swiss watchmaking experience to the general public.

Other brands represented by The Hour Glass include Akrivia, F.P. Journe, De Bethune, Kari Voutilainen, Sarpaneva and Urwerk.

Watches of Switzerland

Established in 1924, Watches of Switzerland began in the U.K. before branching into the U.S., numbering 22 multi-brand and mono-brand showrooms in the U.K., and nine in the U.S. More than 50 watch brands are represented, covering a broad sweep of the luxury watch brands, supplemented by pre-owned watches from numerous brands, and certified pre-owned watches from Rolex.

The company is actually part of the public-listed Watches of Switzerland Group which also owns several other retail chains in the watch retail trade, some of which date back to the 18th century, like Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths. All tallied, and counting the digital retail platforms, the group boasts 211 showrooms at last count, with revenue exceeding GBP 1.5 billion (a rise of 19 percent from the last financial year), with nearly 90 percent coming from sales of luxury watches.

Operating profit grew 26 percent to GBP 179 million and the group ended the 2023 financial year with GBP 469 million in net assets.

Grand Seiko Heritage with a purple dial, an exclusive model for Watches of Switzerland

The group’s size and scope brings it squarely within spitting distance of Bucherer: close enough that the group’s stock price shed 30 percent of its value when Rolex first announced that it had acquired Bucherer. It recovered somewhat after, but it remains a point of concern for some analysts that Rolex accounts for more than half of Watches of Switzerland’s business.

Westime

Founded by John Simonian a year after he moved to the U.S. from Switzerland in 1986, Westime grew to become one of the top destinations in West Coast America for a broad selection of the best names in Swiss watchmaking, counting locals, tourists as well as celebrities and star athletes among its patrons. The family-owned business is now helmed by Simonian’s son Greg Simonian, who was appointed company president from 2010.

Watch brands represented in Westime’s portfolio include Bell & Ross, Breitling, Carl F. Bucherer, De Bethune, Glashütte Original, Grand Seiko, Hublot, Omega, Tudor and Urwerk. Westime has also expanded into the certified pre-owned segment, offering pre-owned watches tested and verified by in-house watchmakers, from several brands including Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, F.P. Journe and Cartier.

A Zenith Master of Chronographs exhibit on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills

Westime is also the only authorized seller of certified pre-owned Richard Mille timepieces in the U.S.

Westime boutiques are currently listed at three locations, in Beverly Hills in the Rodeo Drive shopping area, La Jolla and Miami.

GMT Great Masters of Time

GMT Great Masters of Time stands out for its focus representing the most innovative independent watchmakers on the cutting edge of style and mechanical watchmaking. Its single store located at Via della Spiga within the Quadrilatero della Moda in Milan is stocked with pieces from brands the likes of F.P. Journe, MB&F, Urwerk, H. Moser & Cie., Czapek, Ressence, Hautlence, Romain Gauthier, Haldimann and Voutilainen.

It also carries jewelry from Messika, Fred, Qeelin and Redline.

Three generations of the Corvo family

The company traces its roots to the watch distribution company started by Giorgio Corvo in the 1960s. During this phase, it played a part in the revival of JaegerLeCoultre’s Reverso. However, towards the early 2000s, Giorgio’s son Michele, who presently serves as company chairman, was compelled to rethink the company strategy in the face of major changes transforming the retail landscape at the time.

This led him to start GMT Great Masters of Time in 2007, focused on showcasing and marketing the unique creations of independent watchmakers. The present boutique at Via della Spiga is a relatively recent milestone, opened in 2021.

GMT Great Masters of Time in Milano, Italy

The retailer’s core audience ranges from passionate watch collectors to enthusiasts, as well as international clients, with the company having positioned itself as the starting point and companion for those venturing into the world of independent watchmaking. Presently, GMT Great Masters of Time is owned by the third generation of the family, helmed by brothers Jacopo and Mattia Corvo.

Chronopassion

Some stores have all the muscle in terms of sales figures, an armada of stores stretching across continents, and all the charm and efficiency of a fast-food restaurant. That is not a negative like bad service is a negative.

Fast-food has its proper place and function after all. That said, Chronopassion is quite the opposite in character, a standalone store that has such visibility and influence within the watch aficionado community, for the simple reason that owner Laurent Picciotto effectively communicates an electrifying passion that gets one excited about timepieces.

Laurent Picciotto, Founder of Chronopassion

In breaking the “rules” and eschewing convention for its own sake to champion creativity and individuality, it was only natural that Picciotto famously opened his store in 1988 without knowing anything about watch retail, only what he didn’t want. And that was enough to make the store a success, and attract other like-minded individuals on the adventure, as Chronopassion became the place to be for the rarest, most exclusive and unique watches.

Major brands do figure in its portfolio, but Chronopassion is a natural fit for the fiercely creative world of independent watchmaking. There are cult watches; and Chronopassion comes as close as one can think of, most aptly located in a trend-setting city such as Paris.

Cellini Jewelers

Founded in 1977 by Leon Adams, Cellini Jewelers has been an independent purveyor of fine jewelry and luxury watches in New York City for over 40 years. It first opened as a boutique within the Waldorf Astoria in New York, and since 2018, has moved to its larger Park Avenue location in midtown Manhattan.

Jewelry offered ranges from bespoke pieces and in-house designs to creations from top brands, such as Carrera y Carrera, Oscar Heyman, Sara Weinstock and Wellendorff. For watch shoppers, in addition to major luxury brands, the company also offers a broad range from some of the most innovative and exclusive independent watchmakers.

These include De Bethune, Ferdinand Berthoud, Greubel Forsey, Grönefeld, Laurent Ferrier, Romain Gauthier and Urwerk. It also carries clocks from L’Epée and MB&F.

Cellini Jeweler's founder, Leon Adams (Image: Industry Magazine)

As Leon Adams explains in an earlier interview with Revolution, “We are the only store in NYC that has an extensive selection of both watches and jewelry. We are pretty unique that we have jewelry from the very affordable all the way up to super important gemstones.

“We don’t only deal with the mainstream watch brands and the groups, as most stores do. We are doing that, of course, but we have a huge and diverse collection of independents that you can’t find anywhere else in New York.”

EsperLuxe

EsperLuxe makes a fitting poster child for the contemporary business model that is the product of timeless principles of enterprise, namely passion and vision, colliding with the context and realities of our time — aesthetics, community and connection in the era of social media. Company founder Christopher Daaboul was working with his father on the wholesale side of the watch and jewelry business when on a visit to Baselworld in 2014, he stumbled upon “The Palace,” a tented pavilion away from the comparatively glitzy main exhibition area, where independent watchmakers were showcased.

It was an “OMG” moment for Daaboul. He says, “It completely blew my mind. There were so many watchmakers and creators that were on the cutting edge of design and mechanics.

“There was so much creativity inside of that group, and it was very personal talking to the watchmakers with their creations in hand.”

EsperLuxe in Massachusetts, USA

Daaboul gave himself five years to set himself on the trajectory to get into this scene; EsperLuxe was founded in 2019, an online store that leveraged rich visuals and editorial content to build a watch community of consumers and independent creators, a platform for learning about and purchasing independent brands such as De Bethune, Urwerk, Akrivia, Kudoke, Arnold & Son, and Angelus. Steadfast growth since its inception has also led EsperLuxe to its first brick-and-mortar collaboration with its retail partner Date & Time in the Boston area.

EsperLuxe is presently an authorized retailer of roughly 10 brands, and is a sponsor of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), doing its part in nurturing the next generation of watchmakers.

Doux Joaillier

Away from Paris that is disproportionately the doorway to France for many, this family business has instead chosen other very scenic parts of France to site its boutiques. It started with Richard Doux setting up his manufacturing workshop in the 1980s after graduating from the Lyon Jewelry School, then opening shops in Avignon in southeastern France, known for its medieval architecture, Courchevel up in the French Alps, and Saint-Tropez by the coast on the French Riviera. Doux’s sister Diane followed a decade later, opening her shop in Nîmes, famous for its Roman architecture.

Today, the company owns seven boutiques in these locales, consisting of multi-brand boutiques, and mono-brand stores for Rolex and high jewelry brand Messika. Stores are equipped with watchmaking workshops staffed by brand-certified watchmakers to provide a comprehensive range of repair and maintenance services, and there are also jewelry workshops to serve customers who desire custom jewelry.

The Rolex boutique in Courchevel

Watch brands in the Doux portfolio include Rolex, Piaget, Hermès, IWC, Greubel Forsey, Breitling and Cartier. In addition to jewelry from Chaumet, De Grisogono, Chopard and Pomellato, the company also sells its own Doux brand jewelry.

Les Ambassadeurs Luxembourg

A watch and jewelry chain originating in Switzerland, Les Ambassadeurs started operations in Geneva in 1964, with further stores added in other Swiss cities such as Lucerne and Zurich. In December 2019, just weeks before the first COVID lockdown began, it entered into a joint venture to expand into Luxembourg, sometimes referred to as “the banking capital of Europe,” nestled between Belgium, France and Germany.

In the four years since, Les Ambassadeurs has braved the challenging retail scene to open four boutiques in Luxembourg: two multi-brand stores, and mono-brand boutiques for Omega and Messika respectively. This is no mean feat, considering the shifting landscape of luxury retail characterized by the streamlining of brand distribution networks towards direct sales e-commerce platforms and brand-owned stores, as well as the consolidation of multi-brand distribution giants.

This has driven Les Ambassadeurs Luxembourg to double down on its point of differentiation: by refining every aspect of the buying experience including communication and storytelling, for the local customer, to the end of building customer loyalty in procuring luxury items that Les Ambassadeurs “curates but does not produce.” Les Ambassadeurs’ retail spaces, both online and physical, are likened to “retail theater,” which are refreshed every two months much like an editorial calendar, to bring product presentation, education and storytelling to an amplified level beyond mere point-of-sale.

More than 30 watch and jewelry brands are represented by Les Ambassadeurs Luxembourg, including Breguet, Bulgari, Girard-Perregaux, Glashütte Original, Grand Seiko, Vulcain and Ulysse Nardin.

Pisa 1940

The “Pisa” family name and “1940” for the year brothers Osvaldo and Ugo Pisa started their watch repair shop in Via Pietro Verri, is a succinct encapsulation of the company’s roots, practice and aspirations. Much else has changed over the decades.

In the postwar years, Via Pietro Verri went on to become the Quadrilatero della Moda (Fashion District) of Milan, and the company, now helmed by third-generation Chiara Pisa (granddaughter of Ugo Pisa) has charted significant growth in the last two decades with the addition of more boutiques, all within the Quadrilatero.

This expansion began with the company’s first mono-brand boutiques in 2008, for Rolex (the first in Europe) and Patek Philippe (the first in Italy), respectively; its multi-brand flagship store in 2016; followed in quick succession by mono-brand boutiques for Vacheron Constantin (2018), Hublot (2020), and A. Lange & Söhne (2023). True to its watch-repair roots and refined customer experience that earned the company’s reputation as “the salon of Milanese haute horlogerie”, these boutiques are not just beautiful spaces befitting of the luxury products offered, but the flagship, Rolex and Patek Philippe boutiques also feature on-site workshops — what Pisa 1940 calls “watchlabs” — to offer a comprehensive suite of technical support services, including immediate service intervention where necessary.

Pisa 1940 carries more than 30 brands, ranging from the best-known to the relatively niche, over a wide spectrum of style and complexity. While the Italian customer had been the company’s main focus, today international customers outnumber the local, with most coming from Asia, the Middle East and North America.

Material Good

A relatively new establishment, Material Good was started 2015 by Rob Ronen and Michael Herman, with the aim of providing a most fetching environment for the purchase of fine jewelry and rare pre-owned watches. Ronen had worked for Audemars Piguet for many years, overseeing sales in North America, and his experience with luxury retailers during this time had impressed upon him that, “over and over again, the shopping experience wasn’t as elegant or luxurious as the products.”

With this in mind, the Material Good flagship store located within the central part of SoHo New York is an artfully curated living space, complete with full kitchen and bar, that is in fact a showroom offering fine and custom jewelry, as well as pre-owned and vintage watches with an emphasis on Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Richard Mille. Watch offerings are supplemented by a procurement department headed by Yoni Ben-Yehuda, head of watches, which is tasked with sourcing rare pieces for customers with particular requirements.

While Material Good’s headline offerings are fine jewelry and rare watches, the company has also organically branched into other fine things, an emporium of authentic, rare luxury items from its curated selection of leather goods and fine art, exclusively sold at its SoH0 boutique. Material Good also offers concierge service to “source the world’s most sought-after artwork pieces and leather accessories on a global scale.”

In addition to the store at New York, Material Good recently opened a second location, located at Miami Beach, Florida, which at the time of writing is open by appointment only. The company also operates Audemars Piguet boutiques across the U.S., in Aspen, Boston, Dallas, and the AP House NYC in the Meatpacking District.

Arije Paris

After completing marketing and business studies in London, company president Carla Chalouhi took over her father’s duty-free business in 1994 and has been transforming it ever since, adding a chain of beautifully appointed boutiques and mono-brand shops in the heart of Paris, London and Monaco. Arije’s flagship store at 50 Rue Pierre Charron is a 1,600 square-meter space housed in a 19th century Haussmann building on a street a short distance from the Champs-Élysées.

Some 30 watch brands are represented, including Rolex, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Gerald Charles, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Zenith and IWC. Jewelry brands represented include Boucheron, Chaumet, Piaget, Repossi and Chopard. The flagship store is complemented by another Arije boutique at 5 Place du Québec, a “Collections” concept store on 33 Avenue George V that brings together art and luxury watch retail into a unified space, and mono-brand stores for Rolex, Hublot, Piaget and high jewelry brand Messika.

Chalouhi has also expanded the business by branching overseas, with a boutique and Audemars Piguet store in London, and two mono-brand stores in Monaco for Audemars Piguet and Roger Dubuis respectively. To serve customers better, each shop has its own workshop, offering a range of after-sales and support services ranging from maintenance advice and verification to complex repairs and overhauls, for latest models as well as vintage pieces.

For jewelry customers, Arije also boasts a design studio to handhold customers through custom jewelry design and fabrication.

Heurgon Horloger & Joaillier

Located in the vicinity of the elegant Madeleine district and the Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, Heurgon Horloger & Joaillier is right at home amongst the luxury boutiques, high-end food stores, cultural landmarks and charming architecture. As it should, since it claims to have operated continuously from its 15 Rue Royale address since 1865, before moving to its present location a few minutes’ walk away at 58 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

Purchases can be made on-site at the physical store, or online through its website. Watch brands available include Bulgari, Blancpain, Chopard, Franck Muller, Grand Seiko, Arnold & Son and Ulysse Nardin.

Chopard Mille Miglia Alpine Eagle event at the Heurgon boutique

Jewelry brands available include De Grisogono, Boucheron, Chaumet, Pomellato and Roberto Coin.

Reference

By Felix Scholz

Cartier: A Santos Story

May 3, 2023

Editor's Picks

By Wei Koh

Ulysse Nardin Freak One: The Rise of the Freaks

Mar 27, 2023

Editor's Picks

By Cheryl Chia

The Way of Resonance

Jan 30, 2023

Editor's Picks

By Ross Povey

Rolex Explorer everything you need to know about

Jun 2, 2021 6 minutes

Editor's Picks

By Cheryl Chia

The Complete History of the Chronograph Movement: 1940s–1980s

Mar 4, 2021

FEATURED FROM ARTICLE

Sold Out

Angelus

ANGELUS x REVOLUTION CHRONODATE "ANGELS' SHARE"

$23,800.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber A-500; 60 hours power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	42.5mm; titanium; water resistant to 30m
Dial	Salmon (6N gold plated) with gené or frosted area; Super-LumiNova filled Arabic numerals
Strap	Ballistic gray rubber; titanium folding clasp

The post Revolution’s Top 20 Retailers appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Bernhard Lederer introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto

Cheryl Chia — Mon, 18 Dec 2023 14:00:07 +0000

Bernhard Lederer introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto

The astounding movement now makes its way to the dial.

News

By Cheryl Chia

Dec 18, 2023

Bernhard Lederer first unveiled the Central Impulse Chronometer in 2021, and among certain enthusiast segments, its influence continues to reverberate whenever escapements or sophisticated modern chronometers are brought up. The reason being that he improved upon the independent double wheel escapement invented by George Daniels in the 1970s, which realized the merits of Breguet’s natural escapement without its shortcomings.

The natural escapement is one of the most fascinating escapements of all time as when considered in isolation, it is theoretically the most efficient escapement ever invented especially for pocket and wristwatches. Unlike anything else past and present, it uniquely delivers two impulses directly to the balance in opposite directions at each cycle – one at each vibration.

In addition to greater transmission efficiency, its efficiency does not deteriorate over time. Beyond building on the work of Breguet and Daniels, Bernhard Lederer incorporated a pair of remontoirs to not only prevent power fluctuations but also maintain parity in the energy delivered to both escape wheels throughout the functioning of the watch.

Bernhard Lederer

Today he has unveiled the Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto, which inverts the movement to display its dual train architecture on the dial. The watch is an iteration of the pièce unique originally created for Only Watch 2023.

The decision to reveal the inner workings came after multiple requests by collectors to exhibit the bridge side of the movement on the dial. Limited to just 18 pieces, it is scheduled for delivery in the first quarter of 2024.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Lederer Timepieces (@lederertimepieces)

Lederer is not a new face on our platform. We wrote about the inner workings of the Central Impulse Chronometer here, and if you haven’t had the pleasure of knowing the man behind the watch, we threw in a little introduction there too. Now, on to the technical bits.

Inverted Mechanics

The Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto maintains its 44mm diameter but is a tad slimmer at 11.5mm compared to the previous 12.2mm due to the absence of a dial. The standard version was a watch that wore its robust technical character lightly; on the face of it was a guilloche dial with a pair of openworked seconds counters that showcased the twin escape wheels.

The movement itself, while being a demonstration of traditional watchmaking techniques, has a modern appearance due to the angularity of the bridgework and the spoked wheels. As such, by showcasing the movement on the front, the inVerto takes on a completely different look and feel.

The case is DLC-coated steel, and the bridges and main plate themselves are similarly coated in black, offering a striking contrast with the gilded components.

Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto

Despite being darker and less prominent, no concessions have been made in terms of finishing. The bridges have a frosted finish with a distinctive raised lip that is straight-grained on the surface, polished and beveled by hand on the edges while the unique wheel spokes showcase numerous internal angles.

The hour and minute hands have a complex form that could only be crafted by hand. Likewise, they feature black polishing and frosting.

Bevelling on the barrel bridge

The movement is mechanically almost identical to the standard version, save for the display mechanism. In its original form, it already has an indirectly driven minutes. Typically, inverting the movement requires additional gearing to drive the hands in the right direction. However, due to the nature of the movement —with two opposing rotating trains — the second wheel (normally referred to as the center wheel) from the other train can be used to drive the motion works. Specifically, it drives the minute wheel directly, and the minute wheel pinion drives the hour wheel as usual. Nevertheless, the center pinion and minute axle had to be elongated to reach the front of the watch.

Additionally, as the gear train is released every 10 seconds by the remontoir, it potentially causes the minute hand to leap forward. Thus, the gears that connect the other second wheel to the center pinion has an anti-backlash design, featuring elastic teeth, essentially removing play within the motion works to ensure precise motion of the minute hand.

Minute wheel (in pink) driven directly by the second wheel (traditionally the center wheel). A pair of anti-backlash gears next to the center pinion eliminates play within the motion works to prevent any sidestep of the minute hand as the gear train is released by the remontoir every 10 seconds

Noticeably absent from the dial is the seconds hand. Instead, it is located on the solid case back. As the movement had to be COSC-certified, during which rates are checked by the physical location of the seconds hand, a conventional dial had to be created and submitted for testing. Likewise, as the movement have two counter-rotating fourth wheels, the wheel rotating in a clockwise direction is fitted with a seconds hand.

In-house developed free-sprung balance attached to an overcoil hairspring

The movement has a 42-hour power reserve. Both mainspring barrels are wound via a crown wheel with integrated triple winding clicks. However, as the escape wheels must be driven in opposite directions, an intermediate wheel is added between the crown wheel and the second barrel to reverse the direction of rotation. The going trains are entirely symmetrical, with the remontoir spring visible on each of the third wheel.

The balance is free sprung with eight inertial weights and consistent with the watch’s overarching commitment to chronometric performance, it is attached to an overcoil hairspring.

With the exception of the case, crystals and springs, all components of the watch were designed and produced in-house at Lederer’s workshop in St. Blaise.

Independent Double Wheel Escapement

Now that the movement is the dial, it is worth recapping the main principles of the Independent Double Wheel escapement in brief. The independent double wheel escapement was invented by George Daniels in 1976 at the behest of American industrialist and watch collector Seth Atwood, who wanted a timepiece with an entirely novel escapement.

The independent double wheel escapement was designed to realised the advantages of Breguet’s natural escapement while eliminating its weaknesses.

At the beginning of the 19th century, Breguet, having recognized the drawbacks of the then-newly invented lever escapement, primarily its need for lubrication, sought to design a superior escapement that merged the dual-impulse, self-starting capability of the lever and the direct-impulse, friction-free operation of the detent escapement without either of their shortcomings. Characterised by two counter-rotating wheels, the natural escapement was so called because the impulses given are direct at each vibration, eliminating the need for lubrication.

Notably, Breguet experimented with various configurations of the natural escapement such as having the two escape wheels mounted on two additional coupled wheels that were directly driven by the gear train. In this configuration, the two escape wheels are not directly geared and each serves purely to lock and unlock the detent alternately.

Today, natural escapements that are based on this design are the F.P. Journe High performance Bi-axial escapement and the Kari Voutilainen Double Direct Impulse escapement. However, this approach has its drawbacks, notably increased inertia from the additional wheels and backlash in the teeth of the meshing wheels, resulting in instability.

The other notable configuration Breguet arrived at is to have the first escape wheel drive the second escape wheel directly with traditional teeth while a set of vertical pins on each escape wheel would lock and unlock the detent, eliminating the need for extra gearing in the going train. This design inspired the Laurent Ferrier Natural Escapement which also features vertical teeth on each escape wheel as well as the Ulysse Nardin Dual Direct Escapement, which thanks to DRIE technology, integrated Breguet’s two-level escape wheel construction into a single plane.

While advances in material science and modern technology have made this construction possible, Breguet never fully overcame the issue of play between the escape wheels during his time and abandoned the idea to focus on improving the lever.

The earliest natural escapement in Breguet's pocket watch no. 1135. Each escape wheel is constructed with conventional teeth as well as vertical pins. The conventional teeth allows the first escape wheel to drive the second directly while the pins are responsible for the locking and unlocking of the detent

As mentioned, the natural escapement, when assessed independently, is the most efficient escapement for a wristwatch as it is the only escapement that delivers two direct impulses to the balance wheel at each cycle. In contrast, the lever escapement offers two indirect impulses, while both the Co-axial and the Grand Seiko Dual Impulse escapements rely on combined impulse system of having one direct and one indirect impulse.

Alas, an escapement does not operate in a vacuum. In the absence of contemporary lightweight materials like silicon, challenges related to inertia and backlash remain unresolved.

The double-wheel chronometer escapement in the Space Traveller (Image: The Hour Glass)

Daniels’ solution was thus to allow each escape wheel to be driven by its own gear train and mainspring, eliminating the geared connection in the previous two approaches. As each mainspring powers only one escape wheel, as with a standard movement, transmission efficiency is significantly greater.

Although Daniels was captivated by the qualities of the independent double-wheel escapement, incorporating it in a total of six watches including the Space Traveller I and II, he had identified several inherent disadvantages. In his book Watchmaking, he noted that the double unlocking at each vibration consumes balance energy and above all, he believed that its complex construction could not be sufficiently miniaturised in a wristwatch.

Since then, both Bernhard Lederer and Charles Frodsham have accomplished this, albeit in relatively large cases due to the nature of the movement. Both have increased the beat frequency to 3Hz but Frodsham’s execution is closer to Daniels’ original design while Lederer’s design is an improved version that sought to address the weakness identified by Daniels, namely energy losses.

In Daniels’ design, the shape of the principal locking stone has two sharp upward-pointing edges to lock the escape wheel on either side. This produces a lifting angle that potentially causes a recoil – an undesired backward movement – of the escape wheels as they are liberated from the detent.

Lederer solved this by refining the shape of the locking stone, eliminating the upward curve. Additionally, he added two extra impulse surfaces on each side to maintain efficiency at low amplitude.

Drawing of George Daniels' escapement

Bernhard Lederer's version of the independent double-wheel escapement

At low amplitudes, a tooth of the escape wheel that previously rested on the principal locking stone moves across this tiny sloped surface. As it does, it nudges the detent sideways, prompting a rotation of the double roller.

This rotation ensures that the impulse pallet consistently remains positioned in front of the tooth responsible for direct impulse transmission.

However, as the balance reaches an amplitude of about 80 degrees, the rotational movement of the detent becomes rapid. At this point, the tooth that was previously in contact with the principal locking stone no longer reaches this additional lateral surface.

This solution essentially ensures that the impulse pallet remains correctly aligned with the tooth for effective impulse transmission at varying levels of amplitude.

The twin escape wheels as well as detent lever in Lederer’s escapement was further designed for low inertia. They are made from titanium, which was chosen for its optimal combination of lightness and strength.

Due to the unique operating principles of the natural escapement, the COSC had to set up a special working station where the watches are evaluated manually as the standard software or automated testing systems that are used for movements with Swiss lever escapements cannot fully assessed a watch with a natural escapement. This is because as the balance wheel oscillates, each escape wheel in a natural escapement is released at alternating intervals, resulting in both second hands taking turns to move in an alternating manner while only one seconds hand undergoes assessment at the COSC.

Dual Remontoirs

Both gear trains are equipped with a 10-second remontoir that operate in alternating cycles, with each set releasing every five seconds. While the basis for a remontoir arises from the basic principles of a mechanical movement in that the energy produced by the mainspring varies across its state of wind, it is especially advantageous for managing high torque as well as for an escapement that is dependent on the parity of power between two separate gear trains.

In the initial prototype of the Central Impulse Chronometer, each remontoir mechanism is of a traditional design, consisting of a ratchet stop wheel located prominently on each third wheel. This ratchet wheel is locked and unlocked by a remontoir anchor that is connected to a fork.

The motion of the fork is in turn controlled by a Reuleaux triangle on the fourth wheel. Each time the Reuleaux triangle turns, it triggers the unlocking of one of the teeth on the remontoir stop wheel through the motion of the anchor.

As this tooth is released and the remontoir stop wheel snaps forward, the remontoir spring beneath is wound up.

The remontoir mechanism in the original 2021 prototype. It employed a ratchet stop wheel that is locked and unlocked by an anchor, to which a jeweled fork governed by a Reuleaux triangle is attached

However, later Bernhard Lederer observed that when the watch is wound to its maximum capacity, there’s more pressure and hence friction between the teeth of the remontoir wheel and the anchor pallets. But as the watch approaches the end of its power reserve, this friction between the contact points gradually diminishes.

While this might seem extremely obsessive not just to the casual observer but probably anyone, Bernhard Lederer, the perfectionist that he is, found this unacceptable. Hence, in the production model, he added an additional axle next to the remontoir wheel which now features regular cycloidal teeth.

On this axle is a two-prong stop wheel (a flywheel) that is unlocked every 10 seconds by a finger linked to the fork. The remontoir wheel to stop wheel ratio is now 9:1, resulting in negligible frictional effects.

The improved remontoir mechanism has a simplified setup. The stop wheel is now a flywheel that is located on an additional axle. It is locked and unlocked by a finger on the free end of the fork

Remontoir wheel and coil spring

The Central Impulse Chronometer stands as a singular and profoundly obsessive realization of the independent double wheel escapement, and the inVerto is an iteration that offers an interesting and distinct perspective while being slimmer. While it wears its chronometric innovations on its sleeve, it becomes less of an expression of utility but a self-assured and enjoyable demonstration of mechanics as art.

Both versions will no doubt have its own admirers and in the grand scheme of things, the differences in aesthetics may feel like hair splitting amidst the wealth of horological content present.

Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto

For inquiries, contact el@ledererwatches.com or visit Bernhard Lederer’s authorized retail partners.

Tech Specs

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer Inverto

Movement: Manual winding caliber 9018; 42-hour power reserve; 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds (on the back)
Case: 44mm x 11.5mm; DLC-coated stainless steel; water resistant to 30m
Price: CHF 150,000 before tax
Availability: Limited to 18 pieces

Bernhard Lederer

By Revolution

Bernhard Lederer’s New Watch Is Insanely Cool…. and Inverted? | Bernhard Lederer CIC InVerto!

Dec 21, 2023

Bernhard Lederer

By Revolution

In Conversation with Bernhard Lederer, A Master of Escapements

Nov 10, 2022

Opinion

By Revolution

Revolution Awards 2021: Celebrating the Best of The Year

Nov 22, 2021

Bernhard Lederer

By Cheryl Chia

At the Heart of the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

Sep 30, 2021

From the Shop

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Bernhard Lederer introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The Travis Scott x Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Is a Watch Collab Done Right

Zen Love — Thu, 07 Dec 2023 05:00:31 +0000

The Travis Scott x Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Is a Watch Collab Done Right

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” caused a stir with its celebrity connection, but its brown ceramic case is the star of the show.

News

By Zen Love

Dec 7, 2023

Celebrated watchmaker Audemars Piguet teamed up with an edgy rapper on a collab watch costing around two-hundred grand, and what would you expect but some controversy? The brand worked with artist Travis Scott on its new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” and, at the very least, it got people talking.

This particular celebrity association along with Audemars Piguet’s history of collaborating with celebs and hip hop stars grabs attention first. When you look closer, though, you’ve got a skeletonized perpetual calendar version of one of the most prestigious watches around, accented with nods to Scott’s apparel label Cactus Jack and a brown ceramic case. To some, the hand-drawn font and the Cactus Jack stitched smiley face for the moonphase might contrast too strongly with such a work of high horology, but the watchmaker isn’t known to shy away from a little controversy.

Photo: Zen Love

There’s the controversy, and then there’s seeing the watch in person

But here’s what I thought when I saw the watch at Audemars Piguet’s AP House in New York: sometimes, it’s easy to overthink a watch. The main takeaway didn’t have anything to do with hype. Instead, the brown ceramic was the star of the show, and the whimsical design elements that seem to polarize netizens, in fact, serve to make this watch interesting and purposeful.

You don’t need to be a collector of Cactus Jack merch, nor a diehard Travis Scott fan (nor have $201,000 to spend on a watch) to appreciate such collaboration watches that feel special. The best examples manage to strike a certain balance and take on a character of their own. The Cactus Jack Royal Oak is exactly that, I’d argue. I recall I felt similarly about the Seiko x Rowing Blazers collab watches, despite being previously unfamiliar with the apparel label.

So, yes, I actually like the Cactus Jack touches that make this watch unique. You’ve actually got to look closely to appreciate them, and the watch itself is far more understated than some Royal Oaks and other watches Travis Scott has been known to wear.

Photo: Zen Love

A deep brown ceramic case makes for a totally different Royal Oak

In terms of watchmaking there’s plenty of interest here. This is, after all, a skeletonized perpetual calendar from one of the most revered watchmakers. But that’s not a first for Audemars Piguet (there are non-collab versions in blue and black ceramic), whereas a brown ceramic case is. It’s also rare in watches overall.

When you stop to think about it, though, it makes a lot of sense. Brown is a versatile color for the likes of straps (and clothing, for that matter), adding earthy and understated options aside from the more ubiquitous black or steel. Of course, like any color, the exact hue makes all the difference.

There have been the occasional tan and beige ceramic watches, but Audemars Piguet and Travis Scott went for a deep, chocolatey tone. It appears dark in person and doesn’t give its color away immediately, sometimes taking on grayish shade in some lights. Scott himself apparently refers to the watch as “the Chocolate AP.”

Watchmakers dabbling in ceramic will always tell you how difficult it is to achieve uniformity of a specific color in ceramic other than black or white. Brands have been getting better at it, though, and it’s cool to see more possibilities materialize.

Image: Audemars Piguet

It’s a thorough, thoughtful collaboration

Watch collabs can often mean little more than slapping on a logo or switching up some colors. Limited to 200 examples, the 41mm-wide Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” is much more than that and, according to the brand, it was in development for years.

Aside from the brown ceramic, branding stretches from all the calendar information on the dial in Scott’s hand-drawn typography, his brand’s logo and the moons’ graphics to his slogan (“utopia is a state of mind”) on the caseback and the Cactus Jack wordmark, again, on the rotor. Also unique is the denim-textured calfskin leather strap. Aside from the watch, Cactus Jack x Audemars Piguet jackets, hoodies, hats, T-shirts and other clothing and accessories are part of the collaboration.

Photo: Troy Barmore

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” Specs:

Movement: Audemars Piguet 5135 automatic

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar, astronomical moonphase, week indication

Case: 41mm, brown ceramic, 20m water-resistant

Strap: Denim-textured calfskin leather

Price: $201,000

Availability: Limited to 200 examples

Learn more on Audemars Piguet’s website here.

News

By Lee Sheng

Haute Couture Meets Haute Horlogerie: Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph

Feb 2, 2024

Reviews

By Lee Sheng

Under the Lens: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm “Turquoise”

Jan 2, 2024

News

By Katherine Arteche

Audemars Piguet Partners Up with 1017 ALYX 9SM to Design Five New References, Including a Pièce Unique Royal Oak Chronograph

Aug 25, 2023

Audemars Piguet

By Sheng Lee

The Pristine Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm in White Ceramic

Jul 25, 2023

Interviews

By Wei Koh

Why a collaboration between Audemars Piguet and Marvel is more relevant than it seems

Jul 17, 2023

FEATURED FROM SHOP

Ralph Lauren

Limited Edition

Ralph Lauren x Revolution x The Rake Snow Beach Bear Watch

$1,850.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Automatic Swiss movement, made by Sellita
Functions	Hours, minutes, central second, crown at 2 o’clock
Case	Stainless steel, polished
Dial	Lacquered Electric Blue
Strap	The watch will come on a fabric SNOW BEACH nylon strap
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 300 pieces

The post The Travis Scott x Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Is a Watch Collab Done Right appeared first on Revolution Watch.

You searched for Grand Seiko - Revolution Watch

The Grand Seiko SBGA497 Honors 20 Years 9R Spring Drive Movement

The Grand Seiko SBGA497 Honors 20 Years 9R Spring Drive Movement

Twenty years of 9R Spring Drive

Spring blossoms

Classic design language of the Spring Drive series

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGA497

MORE STORIES ABOUT GRAND SEIKO

FROM THE SHOP

TECH SPECS

READ THIS NEXT

The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

A new beginning: The 9S55 and 9S65

In pursuit of precision: The 9S85

A triumph in performance: The 9SA5

The first mechanical chronograph movement: The 9SC5

Tech Specs

EDITORS’ PICKS

FROM THE SHOP

TECH SPECS

TOP DISCUSSIONS

READ THIS NEXT

Ethos is the powerhouse fueling India’s growth in the watch market

Ethos is the powerhouse fueling India’s growth in the watch market

Ethos’ strategic expansion

Enhanced shopping experience

More on RETAILERS

From the Shop

TECH SPECS

TOP DISCUSSIONS

READ THIS NEXT

Revolution’s Top 20 Retailers

Revolution’s Top 20 Retailers

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

Cortina Watch

Sincere Fine Watches

Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry

Ethos

The 1916 Company

Bucherer

The Hour Glass

Watches of Switzerland

Westime

GMT Great Masters of Time

Chronopassion

Cellini Jewelers

EsperLuxe

Doux Joaillier

Les Ambassadeurs Luxembourg

Pisa 1940

Material Good

Arije Paris

Heurgon Horloger & Joaillier

EDITORS’ PICKS

FEATURED FROM ARTICLE

TECH SPECS

TOP DISCUSSIONS

READ THIS NEXT

Bernhard Lederer introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto

Bernhard Lederer introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto

Inverted Mechanics

Independent Double Wheel Escapement

Dual Remontoirs

Tech Specs

More on BERNHARD LEDERER

From the Shop

TECH SPECS

TOP DISCUSSIONS

READ THIS NEXT

The Travis Scott x Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Is a Watch Collab Done Right

The Travis Scott x Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Is a Watch Collab Done Right

There’s the controversy, and then there’s seeing the watch in person

A deep brown ceramic case makes for a totally different Royal Oak

It’s a thorough, thoughtful collaboration

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” Specs:

EDITORS’ PICKS

FEATURED FROM SHOP

TECH SPECS

READ THIS NEXT