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A New Setting for the Geneva School of Watchmaking

Oliver R Müller — Tue, 06 Feb 2024 08:05:19 +0000

A New Setting for the Geneva School of Watchmaking

Switzerland’s oldest watchmaking school has inaugurated its new premises, just in time to celebrate its bicentenary in 2024.

News

By Oliver R Müller

Feb 6, 2024

The Swiss watch industry doesn’t lack any financial resources to invest in production facilities. What is dearly missing, though, is a qualified workforce. It is estimated that by 2028, we will be facing a manpower shortage to fill 4,000 jobs — on top of an existing workforce of currently 60,000 people — to address the ever-growing demand from the manufactures.

Even though it is a “happy” problem to address, we will need more of the initiatives such as the one announced recently by Rolex on its building of a new factory in Bulle, far away from the dried-out workforce reservoirs around the Swiss-French borders. Rolex plans to create 2,000 jobs within the next decade.

Even though I predict a decline of the industry’s activities in 2024, triggered by a negative macro-economical worldwide environment, we need to plan at least one decade forward. After a record 2023 and a slight minus in 2024, which nevertheless will still range amongst the best years the industry has ever had, we can expect the end of this decade to be the next run for record sales.

Going forward, it is critical to have a greater pool of trained and qualified people in the industry and any initiative going in this direction is to be celebrated.

Reviving a Two-Centuries Old Institution

Last week, Switzerland’s oldest watchmaking school inaugurated its new premises, just in time to celebrate its bicentenary in 2024. The premises are modern and magnificent, and above all, they are conducive to exchanges and cross-disciplinary learning between the different disciplines of micro-engineering, watchmaking and quality control.

More than 300 young people will be able to come to the site to be trained in the professions that the watchmaking industry so desperately needs. However, with around 50 watchmakers in each intake — in addition to the other courses — it will be difficult to meet the needs of an industry with a growing appetite for skilled talent.

All these young and promising trainees will follow the path of their predecessors who later became legends of the industry, such as Laurent Ferrier who graduated in 1968, Franck Muller, Antoine Preziuso and many others.

The premises are ideally located in the heart of one of the canton of Geneva’s two watchmaking hubs, Plan-les-Ouates, with renowned manufacturers such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Rolex and many others just around the corner.

The Wilsdorf Foundation will once again play the role of patron, supporting a government initiative to promote and create jobs in a sector of activity that is important for the Swiss economy.

As the outgoing president of the Federation of the Swiss watch industry FH, Mr. Jean-Daniel Pasche, who was present at the inauguration of the new premises, pointed out that if we want to maintain our global leadership in luxury watches, we need to invest in the future.

And these young watchmakers, micro-mechanics, technicians and quality specialists are the breeding ground for growth and the perpetuation of a five-centuries-old watchmaking tradition.

The partnerships between the manufactures and the school also include the dual career path, which enables a young person to join a company and follow theoretical training at the watchmaking school.

Modern Training, Centuries-Old Know-How

The school has both a laboratory with 3D printers for rapidly prototyping a new idea, and a laboratory for analyzing materials. Students learn to work with machines (e.g. five-axis machining centers) and instruments that they will find in the companies they join once they have completed their training.

Notwithstanding those who complain that traditional skills are disappearing, in particular the finishing and decoration of movement components, the school teaches the skills needed for block polishing, chamfering, Côtes de Genève and mat de Genève. And the famous tradition of the school watch is maintained with a magnificent pocket watch movement whose gear train and regulating organ are supplied by Chopard’s L.U.C. manufacture, with everything else being executed by the apprentices themselves.

Needless to say, this school watch, or montre d’école, is complying with the stringent quality standards of the Poinçon de Genève. The patronage by Chopard represents another fine and useful partnership between a watch manufacturer and the institution that will supply its future watchmakers.

The various training courses offer a plethora of opportunities for young people and should meet the expectations of the manufactures, whether for complete watchmakers, production watchmakers, polishers or operators.

A Changing Industry with Growing Needs

How can an industry that is becoming increasingly premium (the average price of a Swiss watch has risen fivefold in 20 years) while at the same time producing fewer and fewer watches (currently 47 percent fewer watches are exported than in 2000), have growing labor needs? The explanation lies in the increasing complexity of watches as there are more mechanical movements with complications. Above all, more watch companies are invested in the race for the grail of the “manufacture’s seal.”

By demutualizing the means of production (everyone produces for their own needs), we have increased the need for manpower, which is contrary to the watchmaking tradition of the past, but in line with the trend in the luxury industry for “in-house” and “Swiss-made” movements.

Revolution would like to extend our heartfelt congratulations to all involved in this endeavor, especially the ForPro Foundation, which managed this project. We would also like to offer our eternal gratitude to the inspirational director of the Geneva Watchmaking School, Mr. Pierre Amstutz, who died suddenly just two weeks before being able to attend the official inauguration of this beautiful showcase.

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post A New Setting for the Geneva School of Watchmaking appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The story of Pisa Orologeria’s legacy since 1940

Allyson Klass — Sat, 27 Jan 2024 01:00:41 +0000

The story of Pisa Orologeria’s legacy since 1940

At the core of Pisa 1940 lies an incredible entrepreneurial intuition and legacy of craftsmanship passed down the hands of time. It is a testament to the Pisa family’s unwavering dedication to the art of horology, a passion that has been ticking in the heart of Milan since 1940.

Feature

By Allyson Klass

Jan 27, 2024

The story of Pisa unfolds with the cadence of a well-timed chronograph, marking each era with precision and aplomb, much like the watches that grace its displays. It was here in the heart of the vibrant Milan at the dawn of the 20th century that the Pisa family — hailing from Emilia-Romagna’s quaint landscapes — translated its fervent passion for timepieces into a burgeoning profession.

Divino Pisa, the second oldest of 13 boys, had developed a passion for micromechanics and watches in the early 1900s, and together with his two younger brothers Osvaldo and Ugo, set the stage for an enduring horological legacy that would extend far beyond his kin. Divino, who began work in Milan as a watchmaker and engineer in the early 1930s, went on to found the first Italian watchmaking school, while Osvaldo opened a shop-laboratory in Milan in 1940 where he was a watchmaker.

The old Pisa shop

Measuring just 15 square meters, with a window overlooking the street, this was the birthplace of the inaugural Fratelli Pisa workshop on Via Verri.

Osvaldo’s passion working with the tiniest watch components quickly piqued the curiosity of the many passers-by, and soon, a loyal clientele developed. His talent was so immense that he was the only one in Italy who was able to repair the caliber 101 by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the world’s smallest mechanical movement.

Unfortunately, World War II put an abrupt stop to everything.

However, the ever-tenacious Osvaldo resumed his work in 1946, this time, urging Ugo to help with sales, so that he could devote his time to the laboratory. In the post-war resurgence, the Pisa name became synonymous with luxury and precision among the Milanese bourgeoisie and an increasingly international clientele who shopped at the store.

The workshop found its second wind, thanks to Ugo’s entrepreneurial spirit and Osvaldo’s technical expertise in watch repair.

In the 1960s, Ugo’s flair for recognizing nascent talent catapulted Pisa 1940 into the limelight, with horological masterpieces from Rolex, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin gracing its collection. The meticulous curation of brands and watches, combined with the avant-garde displays in the window, attracted an increasingly refined clientele of movie stars, influential businessmen, sports champions, and even international luminaries the likes of American-Greek soprano Maria Callas and actress Joan Crawford, who both became regulars to what was now known as “the salon of Milanese haute horlogerie”.

Pisa found new ownership in the next generation

After Ugo’s death in 1971, the torch of Pisa was passed to his daughters, Grazia and Maristella, affectionately known as the “Ladies of Time”. Together with Osvaldo’s nephew Fabio Bertini as the company’s commercial director (he grew up in the laboratory before progressing to the sales floor), they perpetuated the Pisa passion, curating a selection of emerging artisans that resonated with their father’s ethos.

In 1987, Pisa Minuti was launched. It offered unique timepieces that captivated the discerning tastes of its patrons, introducing a modern alternative to the timeless collections offered at Pisa 1940.

Maristella recounts, “With Pisa Minuti, the watch was transformed into an object that everyone could wear and one that could be changed like a fashion accessory.” The curated selection of unconventional and limited edition timepieces were a big hit with Pisa’s regular clientele, once again proving that it was always ahead of the curve.

Pisa 1940 became synonymous with horological sophistication and prestige in the 1990s. Thanks to the family’s solid relationships with various manufactures, they collaborated to create retailer-exclusive watches that became instant objects of desire for clients.

IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar edition "Pisa"
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph "PISA" Limited

This expansion was not just in business, but in influence, as Pisa also organized exclusive previews of novelties from Swiss watch fairs that became highly anticipated events among patrons. This led to Pisa cementing its status as a purveyor of fine watches and curator of exquisite experiences.

A noteworthy limited edition timepiece is the sleek Bulgari Octo Finissimo for Pisa 1940, which was launched in 2022. Featuring a bronze dial with a 45-degree angle satin finishing that’s reminiscent of a blacksmith’s sketch, the handsome titanium model is significant as it was inspired by the terrestrial magnetism clock conceived and built by Divino Pisa in 1957.

The titanium Bulgari Octo Finissimo for Pisa Orologeria launched in 2022

Previous watch brands that Pisa has collaborated with include Panerai, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantin, and IWC, among others.

The expansion of mono-brand boutiques

The year 2008 marked an important chapter in Pisa 1940’s history when it opened a Rolex mono-brand boutique – the first in Europe – on 24 Via Montenapoleone. “The relationship of trust that we forged over time with the Swiss manufacture had led us to collaborate in designing a three-storey boutique with the values we shared: rigor, modernity and precision,” elaborates Maristella.

This was truly a full-circle moment as it was a little over 50 years ago that Ugo championed a relatively obscure brand named Rolex in his shop.

Europe's very first dedicated Rolex boutique that also opened in 2008

The opening of Italy’s first Patek Philippe boutique followed in the same year. Its location in Via Verri was historic as it was the same space that was once occupied by the first Pisa workshop.

It was also located directly adjacent to Pisa’s multi-brand boutique, a large and modern temple of haute horlogerie dedicated to the world’s best brands.

Italy's first Patek Philippe boutique, which Pisa opened in 2008

In 2010, Chiara, the scion of the Pisa family, infused the business with her contemporary vision. Her entry heralded innovative strides, such as the opening of the company to the world of jewelry, a vision that she shared with her mother Maristella.

She also spearheaded a complete makeover of the Pisa multi-brand boutique in Via Verri in January 2016, turning it into a new flagship store of over 1,000 square meters, including a Jewellery Salon that boasts some of the world’s top maisons alongside two modern laboratories capable of offering swift service and assistance according to the highest quality standards.

Pisa 1940's flagship store on Via Verri

Pisa embarked on its next mission: to transform Via Verri into “Via del Tempo” or the Street of Time. This began in 2018 with the launch of a Vacheron Constantin boutique, followed by the introduction of a Hublot boutique in 2022 and a A. Lange & Söhne boutique in 2023.

This mix of mono- and multi-brand stores forms the cornerstone of Pisa’s distinctive business strategy: to offer consumers an unparalleled and comprehensive luxury experience.

The future of Pisa, by Pisa

Under the leadership of Chiara, who’s now CEO of Pisa 1940, the company has restructured its management to respond to a rapidly evolving retail landscape, segmenting its operations into specialized yet synergistic divisions. This restructuring reflects a commitment to growth and innovation, as well as a dedication to customer engagement.

The company’s appointment of managers under the age of 40 across key departments highlights a notable investment in youthful leadership. This signals Pisa’s confidence in the vigor and fresh perspectives of young executives, affirming the adage “together we grow stronger” — a philosophy that continues to drive the family-led business forward in the highly competitive luxury retail market.

Chiara Pisa, CEO of Pisa 1940

Among the new initiatives introduced is one that aligns with the original ethos of Pisa’s founders: the transmission of watchmaking culture. This is realized through immersive customer experiences, often in partnership with watch brands, where enjoyment melds with education.

There are “watch-labs”, which are interactive workshops where patrons, under expert tutelage, gain hands-on understanding of the intricate artistry within timepieces. One-of-a-kind experiences, such as manufacture visits are another avenue that allow customers to fully immerse in the intriguing world of watchmaking.

Pisa opened the A. Lange & Söhne boutique in 2023

Lastly, another way Pisa 1940 cultivates watchmaking culture is through its in-house magazine Time to Time, which is found in all its boutiques and delivered to clients as well. All these initiatives underscore the company’s unfailing dedication to after-sales service, which includes in-boutique workshops that provide immediate service and repair by watch experts.

Beyond the ambiance of its stylishly elegant boutique and the breadth of Pisa’s offerings is its comprehensive catalog. With over 30 watch brands — from universally recognized names to niche independents covering a wide range of timepieces spanning minimalist to grand complications — Pisa caters to a clientele as varied as it is global. Despite a strong domestic focus, the company’s international customer base has increased, with a significant portion hailing from Asia, the Middle East, and North America.

The interior of the 1940 Pisa flagship store on Via Verri

This has prompted an update in Pisa’s service protocols to accommodate diverse cultural nuances, from language to social gestures, while always remaining true to its Milanese savoir faire.

Pisa 1940 has never lost sight of its heritage as it looks to the future. The company always strives to place the customer at the heart of its operations, online and offline, ensuring digital interactions mirror the high standards of in-person service.

This blend of tradition and innovation ensures that Pisa not only continues to attract visitors, but converts them to lifelong patrons.

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post The story of Pisa Orologeria’s legacy since 1940 appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

Cheryl Chia — Thu, 25 Jan 2024 09:00:09 +0000

The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

A guide to Grand Seiko’s 9S family of movements, culminating in the latest 9SC5 in the Tentagraph, the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph.

Feature

By Cheryl Chia

Jan 25, 2024

Grand Seiko’s well-earned reputation for technical quality, innovation and foresight precedes it. In the past three years alone, it has built the wonderfully impressive Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon (SLGT001), featuring a tourbillon and a co-axially integrated remontoir, as well as developed an impressive high performance movement, the 9SA5, bringing to market a brand-new escapement — a feat as rare in watchmaking as finding a four-leaf clover in a concrete jungle. Last year, the brand introduced the Tentagraph, its first mechanical chronograph that benefits from the exceptional foundation of the 9SA5.

Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon (SLGT001)

Grand Seiko Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001

As the high-end expression of one of the world’s greatest watch companies, Grand Seiko embodies a philosophy rooted in crafting timepieces of impeccable quality that seamlessly blend traditional craftsmanship and cutting- edge technology. Above all, these watches stand as paragons of reliability and precision — a reflection of the Japanese industrial tradition’s relentless pursuit of refining every aspect of an object to a state of transcendent perfection.

Since Grand Seiko expanded beyond its domestic market in 2010, there has been a growing recognition that Grand Seiko watches, as evident in the quality of their cases, dials, hands and movements, give up nothing to their Swiss counterparts.

Historically, the brand was the preserve of mechanical watches produced in small numbers, but today it represents the pinnacle of three distinct branches of technical accomplishment. The first is the 9F ultra high accuracy, thermo-compensated quartz movements introduced in 1993, followed by the 9R Spring Drive movement with automatic winding, unveiled in 2004 — both produced by Seiko Epson, formerly Suwa Seikōsha. The third is the 9S mechanical movement by Seiko Instruments, formerly Daini Seikōsha, engineered to rival the very best of Swiss watchmaking. While all three groups of movements exemplify a level of finesse and care in construction that is worthy of equal admiration, our attention today will be directed toward the 9S family of movements as they celebrate their 25th anniversary this year.

A new beginning: The 9S55 and 9S65

In 1998, the introduction of the caliber 9S at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Iwate prefecture represented Grand Seiko’s first mechanical movement since 1976, marking the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking at the brand. It was also that year where Grand Seiko updated the now famous “Grand Seiko Standard” of a mean daily rate of between -3/+5 seconds, initially established in 1966. All 9S calibers today undergo an extensive 17-day testing process, evaluated in six positions — surpassing the standard set by the dominant industry testing body, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), which is a 15-day examination and in five positions. Likewise, temperature assessments are more demanding, requiring movements to achieve superior accuracy levels of ±0.5 seconds per day per degree Celsius within specific temperature ranges (between 8°C and 23°C, and between 23°C and 38°C), compared to the COSC’s ±0.6 seconds per day per degree Celsius standard.

Right from the outset, the 9S family of movements were intended to compete in terms of performance and finishing with the best mass-produced automatic movements on the market, such as those of Rolex and Patek Philippe. It was the first movement family to benefit from Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) technology. CAD software allowed engineers and designers to create detailed virtual models of movements and gear profiles, while CAM software assisted in turning those designs into physical prototypes or finished parts by controlling machining tools and processes. These systems helped optimize the product development cycle, improving precision, efficiency, and accuracy in manufacturing while making genuine improvements from previous movement designs.

The first generation of 9S5X calibers launched in 1998 was designed to provide a beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour while delivering an extended power reserve of 50 hours, surpassing the standard 45 to 48 hours found in a majority of movements on the market at that time. It differed on a fundamental level from the 5600 and 5200 family of calibers, which powered the Lord Matic, King Seiko and Grand Seiko watches until 1976, as it was designed with a directly driven central seconds, with the fourth wheel located in the center of the movement — an indication that it was built from the ground up as a modern caliber. It was also equipped with automatic bi-directional winding via Seiko’s patented Magic Lever system which boasts a simplicity in design that contributes to its overall robustness.

The 9S caliber was initially introduced in two versions: the time-only 9S51 and the 9S55 with date. A manual winding version, the 9S54, was introduced in 2001 followed by a GMT version, the 9S56, in 2002. In 2010, Grand Seiko made significant improvements to the caliber, notably increasing its power reserve to 72 hours, resulting in the 9S65. The fundamental gear train arrangement remains identical to its predecessor, with a directly driven central seconds. However, the escape wheel and pallet fork are fabricated using the microelectromechanical systems (MEMS) process known as LIGA, the German acronym for Lithographie, Galvanoformung, Abformung (“lithography, electroplating, molding”), an additive microelectromechanical technique that allows for extreme precision and intricate shapes. The resulting escapement is made up of parts skeletonized to minimize inertia.

Grand Seiko SBGR001 with calibre 9S55 (Image: eBay)

Caliber 9S65

The significance of the escape wheel’s inertia lies in its positioning at the end of the gear train. It is therefore the fastest wheel in the movement and also the one with the least torque, being the furthest away from the mainspring. Its inertia is multiplied by the number of turns it has to make for every revolution of the fourth wheel. Thus, despite its typically lightweight and small size, the escape wheel’s inertia exerts the most influence among all the wheels in the going train. As such, reducing its inertia plays a huge role in extending its power reserve to 72 hours. In addition, both the mainspring and hairspring utilize an advanced series of Spron alloys — the Spron 610, composed of iron, nickel, chromium, cobalt, niobium and titanium. It exhibits increased strength and hardness, along with an exceptional resistance to magnetism, corrosion and temperature fluctuations, essentially sharing similar properties to silicon without the brittleness. Its high elasticity also ensures it does not deform easily and therefore maintains its mechanical properties and performance over extended use.

The 610 Spron mainspring offers greater strength and resistance to magnetism, temperature fluctuations and corrosion

While its predecessor used Seiko’s Magic Lever mechanism, the caliber 9S65 employs a reverser gear train, which has less play or backlash. Pawls and ratchet wheel, compared to precisely meshed gear teeth in regular gears, could contribute to minor energy losses through increased friction or less direct power transfer. Reversers sit on posts so the alignment of teeth between each reverser wheel is fixed and better engaged. Additionally, the reverser mechanism is made up of hardened components to increase its strength, durability and resistance to wear.

Grand Seiko has since filled out an entire family of movements around the 9S65, which includes the automatic 9S66 GMT version, the manual winding 9S64 as well as the manual winding 9S63 with indirectly driven small seconds.

Caliber 9S64

In pursuit of precision: The 9S85

During the Swiss timing trials of the 1960s, Suwa Seikōsha and Daini Seikōsha learned that higher frequency movements were unquestionably superior in maintaining a stable rate. After Seiko’s sweeping victories led to the termination of observatory competitions in 1968, both began introducing Grand Seiko watches with a vibration period of one tenth of a second, that is 36,000 vibrations per hour, which is a useful improvement in daily rate stability, particularly for a wristwatch.

In 2009, Grand Seiko reintroduced high frequency mechanical movements in the form of the 9S85. Compared to the first generation 9S5X series, the Hi-Beat caliber 9S85 not only raised its beat rate to 36,000vph, but notably also extended its power reserve to 55 hours. This was achieved by increasing the diameter of the movement from 25.6mm to 28.4mm, enabling it to accommodate a larger mainspring barrel. Additionally, like the 9S65, the springs at the extreme ends of the wheel train utilize the Spron 610 alloy, which is highly resistant to breakage, strain-induced fatigue and temperature fluctuations. It is nonmagnetic and due to its strength and hardness, offers an even power delivery throughout the course of its power reserve.

An example of classic Grand Seiko watchmaking, the Hi-Beat Calibre 9S85 is a strong and precise movement, designed for longevity

Fundamentally, an increase in frequency, and therefore the angular velocity of the balance, results in an oscillator that is less susceptible to external disturbances. However, a high speed escapement demands greater energy and results in greater friction and wear on the components, essentially causing lubricants to run out faster, which would necessitate more frequent servicing. To mitigate this, both the escape wheel and pallet fork are fabricated using LIGA. The resulting escapement consists of lightweight, corrosion resistant, and nonmagnetic skeletonized components made from nickel-phosphorus. The new escape wheel design also features oil reservoirs at the tip of each gear tooth to improve oil retention. Furthermore, to minimize friction on the pivots in the gear train, an additional wheel was introduced between the fourth wheel and escape wheel to distribute the load. The 9S85 also employs a standard modern reserver system instead of the Magic Lever mechanism to improve transmission efficiency and reduce energy loss.

The nickel-phosphorus escapement produced via LIGA is made up of skeletonised parts to reduce inertia while also having recesses in the escape wheel teeth for oil retention

A triumph in performance: The 9SA5

In 2020, Grand Seiko unleashed a horological tour de force with the debut of the Hi-Beat 9SA5 movement equipped with a brand-new escapement. In keeping with Grand Seiko’s generally unassuming approach to product names, it is simply called the Dual Impulse escapement.

The Caliber 9SA5, a triumph both aesthetically and mechanically

In watchmaking today, almost all wristwatch escapements, excluding the detent escapement, fall under the category of dual impulse escapements which refers to their ability to deliver two impulses to the balance wheel at each cycle — one at each vibration. This characteristic is pivotal in the development of a modern and practical escapement capable of withstanding external perturbations effectively in a wristwatch.

However, the main difference between each of these dual impulse escapements lies in the way power is delivered to the balance wheel. The main purpose of an escapement is to regulate the discharge of energy by the mainspring, resulting in the turning of the hands, as well as to transmit energy to the balance wheel. In turn, the escape wheel is released and therefore controlled by the oscillation of the balance wheel, which sets a standard for accuracy. The lever escapement has enjoyed an unparalleled dominance in watchmaking since it was invented around 1755 by Englishman Thomas Mudge. It is particularly suited for wristwatches due to its ability to provide two impulses per cycle and self-start, along with its solidity and high degree of detachment, meaning, unlike earlier escapements such as the verge or cylinder escapement, the escape wheel locks free of the balance after delivering energy through the impulse jewel, leaving the balance free during all of its supplementary arc of travel.

However, despite its excellent performance in the short term, its primary flaw that plagued the most genius minds in the annals of horology is its need for lubrication. Both impulses are transmitted indirectly via a lever, which is in turn propelled by the force of the escape wheel teeth contacting the pallet jewels of the lever. The pallet jewels momentarily stop the escape wheel’s rotation and then release it, imparting energy to the balance wheel through the pallet fork. The sliding interaction between the pallet jewels and the escape wheel teeth is essential for controlling the release of energy and regulating the movement of the gear train. However, this sliding action generates friction between these components, making the surfaces vulnerable to wear and tear, rendering lubrication crucial. The inevitable deterioration of an applied lubricant, in turn, has adverse effects on accuracy.

As such, the detent escapement, also known as the chronometer escapement, remained preferred for specialized applications like marine chronometers due to their oil-free operation and direct impulse, offering exceptional accuracy in stationary or controlled environments. However, the primary setback preventing the use of detent escapements in wristwatches is that, unlike the lever escapement, impulse is provided in a single direction — once per oscillation. This design trait renders the detent escapement non-self-starting. In the event the balance is stopped — whether inadvertently or deliberately — the detent escapement cannot resume without assistance, requiring gentle shaking to restart the balance’s oscillation. Furthermore, the delicate detent that locks the escape wheel is prone to disruption by shocks, potentially causing premature unlocking of the escape wheel.

The Dual Impulse Escapement

Hence, many alternative escapements in the market today serve to combine the direct impulse delivery of the detent escapement and the robustness and self-starting ability of the lever escapement. But to dethrone the lever escapement, the design of the new escapement ultimately requires a level of maturity and adaptability to industrial production on top of offering the additional advantage of the elimination or reduction of oil, making such an endeavor an uphill battle that, when conquered, earns its spot in the horological hall of fame.

The only alternative escapement that has been successfully realized on an industrial scale is the Co-Axial escapement invented by George Daniels in 1976, more than two centuries after the invention of the lever escapement. The Co-Axial met all the criteria of a modern, practical escapement. It delivers two impulses to the balance at each cycle, is self-starting and free from the need for lubrication. However, its drawback lies in its somewhat delicate construction, necessitating a pair of co-axially mounted escape wheels which increases inertia and demands care in adjustment to ensure concentricity.

Grand Seiko’s Dual Impulse escapement shares similar qualities to both the Swiss lever as well as the Co-Axial. Like both escapements, the Dual Impulse escapement provides two impulses per cycle — one at each vibration — making it resistant to shocks. But while the lever escapement provides two impulses indirectly via a lever, both the Co-Axial and the Dual Impulse escapement adopts a mixed impulse system: one impulse is given directly to the balance wheel, while the other is delivered indirectly through a lever. This setup therefore suggests that the quality of both impulses might potentially vary, although this is more abstract than a real-life problem.

In this regard, it is impossible to overlook the independent double-wheel escapement, developed by George Daniels as a solution to the natural escapement that eluded Breguet. It is theoretically superior as two escape wheels impulse the balance in opposite directions directly at each cycle, making its power delivery extremely efficient. However, the basic principles of this system, where each escape wheel necessitates its own gear train, proved limiting to the design of the movement as a whole, and the complexity of its construction makes it impossible to industrialize.

While the Co-Axial and Dual Impulse escapements share a fundamental similarity in that one impulse is given directly, their distinction lies in the method of indirect delivery. The Co-Axial employs radial impulse and therefore does not require lubrication. Conversely, the Dual Impulse escapement utilizes a familiar sliding action to deliver impulse to the lever. This reintroduces the need for lubrication, albeit minimal — half that of the Swiss lever. In other words, it offers far greater efficiency compared to the Swiss lever, while being simpler and less finicky than the Co-Axial, requiring just one escape wheel.

Crucially, the Dual Impulse escapement was also designed to operate with low inertia. The pallet fork and lever are produced using LIGA, allowing components to be fabricated with extreme precision, resulting in its intricate, skeletonized geometries that are lighter to ensure quicker acceleration of parts, which is more crucial in a high-beat movement.

The performance gains in the low-inertia, low-friction Dual Impulse escapement translate to a longer power reserve as well as a high beat rate of 36,000vph in the caliber 9SA5 — properties that vary inversely and are rarely found in the same movement. The oscillator also represents several firsts for Grand Seiko — the balance wheel is free sprung, secured on both ends by a balance bridge for greater stability, and is attached to an overcoil hairspring with a proprietary curve developed through over 80,000 computer simulations.

The rest of the movement was designed with a great sense of purpose and logic. Overall, it is slightly wider than the 9S85 to accommodate a pair of serially coupled barrels while being 15 percent slimmer at just 5.18mm high. This is achieved with thinner mainsprings. With a highly efficient escapement, the strength of the mainspring can be reduced to lessen the load and wear on the pivots and wheels, thereby extending service intervals and reducing running costs for the wearer. Additionally, the serially coupled barrels are directly geared to each other as opposed to being connected via an additional wheel, further reducing inertia.

It also features an unusual horizontal gear train arrangement. The gear train consists of five wheels instead of three as the escape wheel has fewer teeth. As such, it is the fifth wheel that drives the centrals seconds directly. Rather than increasing the number of teeth on the escape wheel to achieve a higher beat, two additional wheels were added to distribute the load across more wheels, mitigating wear on the pivots and wheels. Typically, in a movement with serially coupled barrels, the second wheel, which drives the minutes, is located in the middle, overlapping the barrel. But to reduce the height of the movement, the barrel drives a second wheel located on the right of the movement when viewed from the caseback. It is solid rather than spoked for rigidity as it has the greatest load to bear. Beyond that, the design of the movement is as visually attractive as it is remarkably efficient, with a total of four beautifully shaped bridges as well as a skeletonized rotor, allowing the components to be admired. It is also equipped with an instantaneous date-changing mechanism, which switches over in under a second at midnight. All told, the 9SA5 is one of the most sophisticated and impressive automatic movements on the market, offering the exceptionally rare combination of a lengthy power reserve and a high frequency.

Horizontal gear train

The first mechanical chronograph movement: The 9SC5

To the delight of many Grand Seiko devotees this year, the brand introduced its first-ever mechanical chronograph, the Tentagraph (SLGC001). While Grand Seiko has produced chronographs in the past, they were all equipped with Spring Drive movements, demonstrating its penchant for high accuracy chronographs. Given that activating the chronograph would lead to a decrease in balance amplitude, the high performance 9SA5 was perhaps the only worthy base movement in the eyes of Grand Seiko.

Grand Seiko Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001

In the Tentagraph’s 9SC5 movement, the chronograph was built on the superb 9SA5, thereby making it an automatic high frequency chronograph. This means that the 9SC5 movement has a modular construction, where the chronograph plate is located between the calendar plate and the mainplate. While modular chronographs are frequently discussed with less enthusiasm than integrated ones, it is worth keeping in mind that they are often a result of the successful development of a top-tier base movement, which certainly holds true in this instance.

The construction of the chronograph module relies on several tried-and-true approaches characteristic of Grand Seiko’s chronographs. It is governed by a column wheel and relies on a vertical coupling system. It bears remembering that while the El Primero took the lion’s share of attention in the three-way contest to build the world’s first automatic chronograph in 1969, the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer by Suwa Seikōsha was the first column-wheel automatic chronograph to incorporate a vertical clutch. It is arguably the most influential among movement builders despite it being the least known of the three among the general public.

The chronograph module employs a column wheel and a vertical clutch (located next to the chronograph seconds wheel)

The vertical clutch in the 9SC5 comprising of two co- axial intermediate wheels is located slightly off the central axis of the movement. One intermediate wheel is constantly driven by a central extension wheel from the fourth wheel. When the chronograph is activated, two coupling levers releases the clutch, which drives the chronograph seconds wheel, enabling it to rotate together with the extension wheel. Among the other hallmark approaches is the use of a single, integrated three-point reset hammer that zeros all three counters — the chronograph seconds, minutes and hours — at once.

In contrast to the 80-hour power reserve of the 9SA5, the 9SC5 has a power reserve of 72 hours with the chronograph disengaged. This difference arises from the need for an auxiliary train to transfer the central seconds output from the base movement to the running seconds counter positioned at three o’clock. With that said, 72 hours puts it on par with some of the top automatic chronographs on the market while making it the lengthiest among high frequency chronographs. Undoubtedly, this can be attributed to the incredibly efficient Dual Impulse escapement as well as the use of double barrels.

Cased up, the Tentagraph measures 43.2mm wide and 15.3mm high due to the nature of its construction. While it is definitely a large, eye-catching timepiece, it wears comfortably as the case and bracelet are made from the brand’s proprietary high intensity titanium, which is said to be 30 percent lighter and more scratch resistant than stainless steel. The case design incorporates multiple intersecting planes, alternating between satin-brushing and the renowned Zaratsu polish. The tachymeter bezel, on the other hand, is made of ceramic, making it scratch resistant.

The titanium case has multiple facets, alternating between satin-brushing and the renowned Zaratsu polish

The impressive dimensions are further enhanced by the striking dial architecture. It features wide, grooved and faceted indexes, offering outstanding legibility, along with dramatic dauphine hands, with a pronounced tapering towards the tips. Both are filled with Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite, a phosphorescent compound that boasts a brighter and longer lasting glow compared to Super- LumiNova, the standard luminous paint used on most watch dials. The subdials for the counters are deeply recessed and are actually separate inserts, further adding depth to the dial, while their respective hands feature a polished bevel on their hubs. The beautiful dial texture was inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, which is visible from the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, while the rich shade of blue is inspired by the night sky.

The utterly luxurious, elaborately crafted dial with inlaid sub-dials, faceted and grooved indexes, and a distinctive handset

Ultimately, the Tentagraph is a continuum of what Grand Seiko does best, which is to deliver watches that are nuanced and supremely beautiful on the outside while maintaining unquestionable precision and reliability on the inside. Only in this case it boasts the brand’s crowning achievement — the Dual Impulse escapement — which when viewed within the field of chronographs, makes it the only high frequency chronograph with an exotic escapement and also the only chronograph with both a high frequency and long power reserve. As a first outing, it’s pretty neat.

The superb base caliber with four beautifully shaped bridges visible through the sapphire case back

Tech Specs

Grand Seiko Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001

Movement: Self-winding caliber 9SC5; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case: 43.2mm; high intensity titanium with black ceramic bezel; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Blue with “Mt. Iwate” pattern; applied faceted and ridged indexes with LumiBrite coating
Strap: High-intensity titanium bracelet
Price: SGD 19,000

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The nitty-gritty of vintage watch repair, according to an actual watchmaker

Troy Barmore — Wed, 24 Jan 2024 13:00:17 +0000

The nitty-gritty of vintage watch repair, according to an actual watchmaker

We sat down with one of NYC’s most respected private watchmakers to shed some light on the mysteries of watch servicing.

Interviews

By Troy Barmore

Jan 24, 2024

You’ve finally done it. After months, perhaps years of planning, researching, saving, obsessing – you’ve bought yourself that watch. The watch. The watch you’ve been dreaming about. It’s magnificent. You bring it home, and begin your journey with your new timepiece companion. Days turn into weeks, weeks into months, months into years. Slowly but surely, the watch begins to take on the character of use. Maybe a scratch or two here, a small dent or abrasion there.

A little dirt begins to accumulate underneath the bezel, or within the links of the bracelet, and that high polish shine begins to dull ever so slightly. No matter—it was meant to be worn. Meant to be used. You’re proud of those scratches, that grime. But then one day, you begin to notice something is off… the time is a little wrong. Strange. Maybe you forgot to wind it? Sure, that must be it. You reset the watch and go about your day. But then a few days later, again, it’s a few hours slow. As the reality begins to sink in, you feel a cold chill go down your back – you need to have your watch serviced.

But what do you do now? Do you take your watch back to where you bought it? Surely it’s out of warranty now. Do you send it to the manufacturer? So many questions. But fear not! Recently, I sat down with my old friend Harris Freedman of NYC Watchmaking to take the fear and guesswork out of getting your pride and joy serviced.

Revolution: Harris, welcome! Thank you for sitting down with me and helping to demystify for our readers the process of watch servicing. If you would, can you give us a little rundown on your background – who you are and how you got into watchmaking?

Freedman: Totally. My name’s Harris Freedman of NYC Watchmaking. I was doing sales and was really dissatisfied with that. But I was also into watches. I started selling watches, and realized I was dissatisfied with the act of selling, but not what I was selling. So I wanted a change, wanted to work with my hands, and dive a little deeper into watches. I found a mentor to take me under their wing and get my hands on some watches, learn how to fix them. And it all just took off from there and organically bloomed into what it is I’m doing now.

Revolution: Very interesting – so you apprenticed with another watchmaker, but did you go to watchmaking school and take classes or anything like that? Or did you just learn by doing?

Freedman: Just learned by doing. My mentor pretty much gave me cheap little watches that cost like, 150 bucks and said “see if you can get this running.” It didn’t run well, and it wasn’t clean, but by the end it was ticking. It was nice because you go to watchmaking school and you spend months on theory and you don’t touch a watch for the first six months to a year typically. Meanwhile I got hands-on right away with vintage watches, which really allowed me to build my hand skills. At the same time I had my own textbooks where I was studying after hours learning theory, what types of oils go where, cleaning, how to tell when it is clean, etc.

Revolution: That’s really cool. You had this combination of technical and academic foundation, but taught and applied in a hands-on, real world way rather than in a classroom setting over a prefixed period of time.

Freedman: I think it taught me, I want to say critical thinking in terms of figuring out why something’s not working or how things are put together. Which I think especially working on vintage watches is really helpful versus working on brand new watches.

Revolution: What is the biggest misconception that people have about having their watches serviced?

Freedman: So I think that the biggest misconception is that a watchmaker is a watchmaker and a mechanical watch, a mechanical watch. Fixing vintage watches is, I think, a different skill than repairing modern watches. Or to put it a different way, a lot of people who are trained on modern watches might not have the same problem solving skills that would be necessary to fix or figure out what’s going wrong with a vintage watch. They might really need the original workshop manual from the brand to put it together and without that they’re kind of lost. It’s really a different skill set.

Revolution: When should people bring their watches in for service? Alternatively, when should they not?

Freedman: There’s two camps, especially when it comes to Rolex, for example, that I’ve heard lots of people say. You don’t need to service your watch until it’s not keeping good time. And other people are: “Rolex says service it every five years, so you should do that or as close to it as possible.”

When I was selling watches, I was in the first camp of the, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it – the brand is just trying to get more money out of you, etc. But the reality on the inside of the watch is very different. I guarantee those people have never opened up a watch, looked at pivots, the jewels, and seen the real wear and tear happening inside. And I guarantee if a watch that hasn’t been touched in decades but been worn every single day, even if it’s been keeping great time for three decades, is heavily worn.

Revolution: Interesting, so in forestalling service, even in a watch that maybe is keeping time ok, you might be inviting bigger problems down the road?

Freedman: Exactly. So I think I would say to avoid issues happening, bad timekeeping or watches breaking, get your watches serviced every three to five years, especially vintage. For modern ones, I personally wouldn’t go longer than seven. It’ll just help keep longevity. There’ll be less wear on parts because they are lubricated the entire time that they’re running instead of lubricated for the first three to five years and then running fine for another two as they wear down and down and down. And then you have an issue.

Revolution: What are some dos and don’ts? Are there things people could figure out by googling or should they just call you at the first sign of trouble?

Freedman: Yeah, I would definitely say it never hurts to Google questions and try something easy, but I wouldn’t recommend opening your own watch up and taking the case back off or something like that. But I’ve had people come in and be like, my crown is broken, and it’s just a screw down crown which they can’t pull out because it’s screwed in. Knowing the difference between quartz and mechanical, etc. But in general, I have an open door policy – shoot me an email, ask me a “stupid” question, I’ll tell you you got to try winding a little bit more or I’ll hop on the phone with people, give them advice. Worst case I’ll say ship it over to me, I’ll take a look.

Revolution: Should people send their new watches back to the manufacturer or the AD for servicing once it’s out of warranty?

Freedman: I think there’s kind of two answers to that. One is depending on the question of how far out of warranty it is. If it’s decades, I would not recommend sending it to the AD. A lot of the people there haven’t seen stuff that’s decades old. So even if the brands will fix it, which some won’t for that old stuff, the people who are fixing it haven’t touched one of those in a long time – They’re only used to working on newer watches. Part two of that is that old stuff is getting collectible now and you don’t want to risk the chance of them polishing it (even if they say they won’t) or swapping out dials and stuff like that.

That having been said, if it’s a year, two year, three years out of warranty, unless you see it being highly collectible and you definitely don’t want polish or anything like that, I think the ad is generally fine.

Revolution: You mention case polishing, which is a hot button for a lot of people. Where do you stand, yay or nay?

Freedman: Personally? For my own watches, I’m a nay. I think visually to a collector, it’s a very personal choice. And I think there’s a lot of vintage guys who will look down on you if you do it. It comes down to what makes you happy – and if having a shiny case with no scratches makes them happy, obviously I think they should polish it.

When a client asks my advice, I will give them the knowledge and inform them that you can only polish it so many times and the more times you polish it, the more metal gets taken away. That could affect the value down the line. But I don’t think the primary purpose of collecting or the hobby should purely be about resale value. I like originality personally. I like how sharper cases look. So again, personally for me, no. And I would advise other people no as well, but I would never shame them or tell them they’re wrong if they do want it.

Revolution: If a watch was inexpensive to purchase, would it follow that that watch is going to be inexpensive to service?

Freedman: You would think. But that isn’t usually the case. Unfortunately, most of the cost is in tools and labor. So the labor to fix a cheap watch is the same as the labor to fix an expensive watch, they have the same components. You still have to take them apart, you have to clean everything, put it back together, get the timing set in. In fact, cheap ones can take even more time and effort than expensive ones because they’re not engineered as well, so they don’t go back together as easily.

Revolution: That’s very interesting. And kind of thinking about that in my mind, I always sort of thought of it as sort of like, hey, a three hand movement is a three hand movement. But that might not actually be the case. In fact the less expensive movement might actually be more difficult, more time consuming, more expensive to clean and service and reassemble than a more expensive movement.

Freedman: It really can be. And especially when they get more and more complicated, you have more complex parts in there that are cheaped out on – where there should be jewels, there aren’t jewels, for example. So if you go longer without servicing, it will wear much quicker. And then you have to rectify that and that takes more time and effort, or involves replacing larger components of the watch. So it’s kind of the opposite of what you would think. Cheaper watches can be in fact more expensive labor- and time-wise than some more expensive ones.

Revolution: If you have to replace internal parts – does that mean the watch has lost its originality or is a… FRANKENWATCH? [THUNDER CLAPS AND LIGHTNING]

Freedman: It’s a good question. I hear that term getting thrown around all sorts. I don’t know that people really know what it means. For me, it comes down to a couple of things – there’s the discussion of preservation versus restoration as opposed to building out a watch to intentionally fake something. To me, a Frankenwatch would be like if you’re putting in an incorrect bridge from another watch and it’s got a different serial number on it or it’s got a different finish to it just to build a watch together so you have something functional and working. It’s putting in a part that wasn’t originally in there or never should have been in there in that form, but is functional and that to me then makes it an imposter.

Revolution: Interesting. So say you have a watch with a base ETA2824 in it, and a tooth breaks off of a wheel, so you go and take a wheel from another 2824, but maybe it’s a generic one, not the derivative that the brand used. It has the same barrel, but it’s not from that manufacturer’s gussied up version. Is that a bridge too far for you (no pun intended)?

Freedman: To me it depends on the finish because, especially you said an ETA 2824, a lot of brands use those movements and ETA has a couple different grades of the base movement that they sell and then sometimes the brands will alter the movements themselves or adjust the finishing or something like that. So for me, is it the same finish? Is it the same version of the part? Is it truly indistinguishable? The trick is knowing which parts are which.

Revolution: How can people vet their potential watchmaker or service center to feel more confident in their capabilities? What are some red flags to look out for?

Freedman: I think word of mouth is really valuable here. Talk to some other collectors who’ve had things serviced, see what kind of experience they’ve had and see if they were happy with it or not. I think other than that, it would be to reach out and talk to the watchmaker in question.

I have an open door policy – you can email me, I’ll email back personally or I’ll hop on the phone with a lot of people before they’ve even sent me work. We have the discussion, what do they want done with their watch? What are they looking to get out of this experience? So if you can do that, I think that’s really where you get a step up with smaller independent shops versus much larger ones or going back to the factory. You end up with a more individual, more personalized experience.

Talking about the red flags, I’m going to go back to quoted price range. You get what you pay for, if it sounds too good to be true, most likely it is. There’s a reason why they’re undercutting on price and there’s things that won’t be done or will be skipped out on to get it to make sense at that whatever hourly rate it is or per job rate or anything like that.

Revolution: If everybody else is quoting you $1,200 to service something and then you find a guy who’s willing to do it for $350… maybe you should at least have an eyebrow raised at that, right?

Freedman: You’re probably going to get the 47th street dip on that one – put it in a tub of solvent, let it sit for 20 minutes, pull it out, spread oil with the paintbrush all over it.

Revolution: And then everyone wonders how vintage watches get over oiled or have big old oil slicks and moisture damage all over them.

Freedman: Exactly. So yeah, I’d say word of mouth recommendations and try and talk to them directly. If you can talk to them, you get along with them, if they’re passionate about watches, they’re happy to do work with you, to get it exactly how you want it and to be honest and real with you. I think that’s a great place to start.

Revolution: If there was one key takeaway point for our readers, regarding the process or experience of having their watches serviced, what would that be?

Freedman: Let’s see, how do I want to say this? Go in with the knowledge and the confidence that it’s about you as the customer. I think a lot of times you go into a watchmaking shop and the company or the watchmaker will try and make it all about them or about the watch – what they have time for, when they can get to it, what they want to do to it, and it doesn’t really need to be like that.

There are definitely things that need to be done that you might not know about, but I think if they’re not giving you the conversation, if they’re not explaining to you what they’re going to do to your watch and you’re not walking away understanding the process, I think that’s an issue. I think there’s a big problem in the industry about transparency and communication and customer service, and as a result people don’t go in expecting those things and I think they should.

Revolution: Interesting. So they should come away from that conversation, from the evaluation, having a general understanding of what is going to be done to their watch and, most importantly, why it’s going to be done, and what it’s going to cost.

Freedman: Exactly. If they say something like, we’re going to replace the crystal, and they don’t tell you why they want to replace the crystal. You should feel comfortable and be able to ask what the reason is for replacing it. If they say we have to replace the hands or we won’t do the service without replacing the hands. The customer should be made aware and at least then be given the choice of saying, okay, I don’t want to do it.

Revolution: It seems a lot like taking your car to a mechanic.

Freedman: In my head pretty much exactly the same thing. And I fix my own cars as a hobby on the weekends. It’s just a different tool set. The tools tend to be quite a bit larger and it’s just working on a larger thing, and with watches, you have gaskets to keep moisture out of the watch and with cars you have gaskets and o-rings to keep it all inside the engine, but other than that, it’s essentially the same thing.

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post The nitty-gritty of vintage watch repair, according to an actual watchmaker appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Definitely Doux: A stalwart in France’s luxury watch and jewelry scene

Allyson Klass — Wed, 24 Jan 2024 01:00:32 +0000

Definitely Doux: A stalwart in France’s luxury watch and jewelry scene

Doux Joaillier’s journey from a traditional retailer to a modern maison is marked by an unwavering pursuit of excellence, both in the physical boutiques and the digital storefront.

Feature

By Allyson Klass

Jan 24, 2024

The only son of a modest family from Avignon (his father sold automotive tools, while his grandfather was a window washer), the late Henri Doux loved watches and clocks from an early age. Starting as a watchmaker at 25, he worked his way up the ranks before setting up his eponymous boutique, Horlogerie Doux, in 1965 on Rue Joseph Vernet in Avignon.

The humble watchmaker spent days behind the counter selling and nights repairing watches, a service that allowed him to earn his living for the first few lean years. It took some five years before Henri’s passion, hard work and professionalism finally paid off, when the name Doux was established in the world of jewelers.

Henri’s flourishing business was set on a solid path of success in 1974, when it gained the distinction of becoming France’s first Cartier authorized dealer. Soon, the store also carried Rolex and other big brands at the time.

Aside from watches, Henri was also known to be a gemology aficionado with a knack for creating jewelry so original that clients would travel from Paris to his boutique in Avignon for his unique know-how.

A legacy continues

Although Henri shuttered Horlogerie Doux and retired in 2014 at age 73, he passed on his love for the art of jewelry to his two children. His son Richard, a graduate of the Lyon Jewelry School, first set up his own manufacturing workshop in the 1980s.

However, he went on to continue his father’s legacy by establishing the first Doux Joaillier boutique in Avignon in 1996. Four years later, Richard assumed the role of company director and set up a second boutique in the upscale ski destination of Courchevel in the French Alps.

Two generations of the Doux family: Arthur, Richard and Ethan

Then in 2006, the third store opened in Saint-Tropez, along one of the most beautiful coastal promenades overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Richard recalls, “One day, the president of Boucheron called me and suggested that since we have a store in the winter destination of Courchevel, why not replicate the Doux Joaillier experience with a summer counterpart?

“He then proposed an ideal location in the heart of Saint-Tropez that I could take over.”

Doux Joaillier in Saint-Tropez

Doux Joaillier also has a fourth multi-brand boutique in historic Nîmes (also known as the French Rome), which was established by Richard’s sister, Diane, in the 1990s. And come 2024, the retailer will welcome its fifth store in Deauville, an exclusive upscale holiday destination on the Côte Fleurie of France’s Normandy region.

The opening of another multi-brand boutique in this city is a judicious move by Doux. After all, Deauville, known as the Parisian Riviera, has been the seaside escape for Paris’ elite since the 1860s.

Doux Joaillier in Nîmes

Furthermore, its reputation as a playground for the affluent is bolstered by prestigious events, such as the Deauville American Film Festival, which establishes it as a cultural epicenter that contends with the splendor of Cannes. Amid this luxurious setting, elite equine auctions and the allure of high-stakes gaming at the opulent Casino Barrière also draw an international elite, cementing Deauville’s position as a pinnacle of lavish living.

Additionally, Doux owns three mono-brand boutiques, two of which are Rolex stores in Saint-Tropez and Courchevel, which opened in 2016 and 2022 respectively. The third store, for French jewelry Maison Messika, was established in 2020 in Saint-Tropez.

Doux Joaillier opened the first boutique exclusively dedicated to Rolex in Courchevel in December 2022

Rolex boutique in Saint-Tropez
Messika boutique in Saint-Tropez

Doux Joaillier’s portfolio boasts esteemed names such as Piaget, Hermès, IWC, Greubel Forsey, Cartier, Omega, and more. Complementing these timepieces are dazzling creations from Chaumet, Repossi, Chopard, and Pomellato, alongside the Doux jewelry brand, which highlights the family’s own creative prowess.

Thanks to the know-how of in-house master watchmakers and the latest generation technologies, Doux’s workshops are approved by top-tier watchmaking houses such as Rolex and Cartier. Then, there are the masterful hands of its resident artisans, who can translate clients’ dreams into tangible treasures that resonate with their personalities.

New digital horizon

However, beyond an impressive inventory, reinvention is a necessity in the ever-evolving luxury retail industry. Doux Joaillier embraced the digital revolution with the advent of an online store in 2018.

Still maintaining Doux’s renowned standards of excellence, service and exclusivity in the virtual world, this space complements its physical boutiques perfectly.

The interior of the Doux Joaillier boutique in Courchevel

Doux Joaillier’s online store has grown from strength to strength, making up for 10 percent of total sales. Its vast selection of over 3,000 items ranges from a Le Gramme bracelet at 200 euros to a piece of haute joaillerie signed by Messika.

Thanks to the work of the family’s third generation, Doux Joaillier’s e-commerce site is akin to its eighth boutique. Richard’s son, Arthur Doux, who joined the company in 2019 as communications manager, adds, “Our e-commerce site was pretty basic when we launched it, but since then, we’ve incorporated some features to ensure our clients have a nice online shopping experience.

Third-generation Doux Joaillier family members, Ethan (left) and Arthur (right) Doux

“Now, we have special packaging and even scent it, and we make sure to have a human touch every step of the way. For instance, customers will get a reply within 10 minutes should they have any queries via phone or any of our other channels between 9 a.m. and 7 p.m.

“I think this personal touch is our strength and that’s why many clients become long-term patrons via our website. Typically, it’s hard to get repeat business via e-commerce; most customers buy one item and will Google for another vendor for their next purchases, but many of ours patrons return to enquire about another product after their first buys, so I think we’ve done a good job.”

A 3D-rendering of Doux Joaillier's fifth multi-brand boutique, which is set to open in 2024 in the coastal sanctuary of Deauville

The company’s digital strategy is also an extension of the Doux experience. The website serves as a prelude, inviting clients into the Doux world, while social media platforms such as Instagram, Facebook and WhatsApp allow Doux to respond to and engage with clients on a more immediate and intimate level.

Arthur says, “E-commerce isn’t solely for sales. I think 90 percent of our clients who come to our boutiques have visited our website.

“They have something in mind, then check on the website for its availability, so e-commerce acts like a display. We use our social network to bring new clients to our e-commerce site, so there’s a good synergy between various platforms.

“When customers visit our physical stores and see that we are an established brand, they will confidently purchase from our e-commerce site.”

Inside the Rolex boutique in Courchevel

What also sets Doux Joaillier apart is the unforgettable customer journeys it crafts. “We organize various events, from intimate ones with five to 10 clients involving a special experience like sailing or ski racing, to a big cocktail party where we invite many clients to discover a new collection.

“There was one we did in Courchevel with Cartier, where guests enjoyed an amazing dinner by a Michelin-starred chef in a beautifully decorated cable car as it climbed to the top of the mountain. Our high-end clients in Saint-Tropez and Courchevel can buy anything they want, so they won’t be impressed by a dinner at a five-star hotel.

“We must give them an experience that money can’t buy and that allows us to foster long-lasting relationships with them,” explains Arthur.

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Definitely Doux: A stalwart in France’s luxury watch and jewelry scene appeared first on Revolution Watch.

How Cortina Watch and Sincere Fine Watches placed their strength in numbers

Celine Yap — Thu, 18 Jan 2024 06:06:01 +0000

How Cortina Watch and Sincere Fine Watches placed their strength in numbers

With its massive retail footprint across the Asia-Pacific region, Cortina Holdings dominates all corners of the market through Cortina Watch and Sincere Fine Watches.

Feature

By Celine Yap

Jan 18, 2024

Singapore may be one of the smallest countries in the world by land size, but when it comes to its appetite for fine timepieces, this island nation stands tall aside giants in comparison. Jostling among the world’s biggest markets for luxury Swiss watch exports, Singapore frequently ranks between sixth and seventh position globally.

One primary catalyst behind this continued robust demand is definitely the nation’s top-notch retailers, such as Cortina Watch and Sincere Fine Watches, both of which currently make up the complete retail division of Cortina Holdings and are familiar names to generations of watch lovers all around the region.

The largest Patek Philippe boutique in Asia is located at Taipei 101 in Taiwan, and is operated by Cortina Watch

Indeed, to say that watch collecting here is never complete without a walk through one of Cortina Holding’s numerous retail points of sale is no understatement, and ever since the company acquired Sincere Fine Watches in 2021, this massive retail network has gotten even wider. Both Cortina Watch and Sincere Fine Watches are equally regarded for their extensive collection of brands and great presence throughout the region — although each has its own specific areas of focus that make the merger all the more meaningful and complementary.

Where Cortina Watch holds strong to its market leader position — something it has steadily cultivated over more than 50 years — the company represents the industry leading stalwarts such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, with which it shares a long and enduring partnership. In addition, Cortina Watch shows continued support towards exclusive independent brands such as H. Moser & Cie., Parmigiani Fleurier and more.

The SHH flagship boutique in Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

Meanwhile, Sincere Fine Watches has increasingly asserted itself as a powerhouse of modern independent watchmaking with the re-establishment of the SHH (Sincere Haute Horlogerie) concept stores exclusively retailing brands like Arnold & Son, Czapek, Greubel Forsey, Ferdinand Berthoud, Laurent Ferrier and Moritz Grossmann, along with the portfolio of classic brands in its multi-brand stores.

Following the acquisition, Sincere Fine Watches’ stable of 20 multi- and mono-brand stores located in major cities across Asia including Pendulum in Bangkok, Thailand, joins that of Cortina Watch which comprises 30 multi- and mono-brand boutiques throughout Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Australia. A quick look at this vast distribution network very clearly demonstrates the group’s retail strategy, which is to position Sincere Fine Watches as the purveyor of independent watchmaking, given the steady growth of SHH (Sincere Haute Horlogerie) stores as well as the continued production of SHH limited edition timepieces co-created with brand partners which are extremely sought after by collectors.

Franck Muller boutique in Orchard ION, Singapore

Sincere Fine Watches also runs mono-brand stores for TAG Heuer, Tudor, Bell & Ross and of course Franck Muller. Meanwhile, Cortina Watch forges ahead as the leading retail destination for the industry’s most desirable luxury brands, managing numerous monobrand stores on behalf of Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, TAG Heuer, Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Franck Muller and Jacob & Co.

Building a Legacy

Within a short span of two years since the acquisition, Cortina Holdings has moved strategically to expand the network of stores under Sincere Fine Watches, reinforcing its position as the region’s premier luxury watch specialist. At the same time, Sincere also capitalizes on the great synergy it shares with Cortina Watch, joining hands to offer fresh and exceptional new experiences to watch lovers throughout the region — a step that recalls the Sincere Watch Academy during the mid-2000s when it spearheaded numerous horological get-togethers and made them not only educational but fun and memorable too.

Having represented the world’s top watch brands for almost 70 years now, the company has always positioned itself as more than just a seller of beautiful timepieces, but also a de facto meeting place for watch enthusiasts of all stripes.

CEO of Cortina Watch, Jeremy Lim

Anthony Lim, Executive Chairman of Cortina Watch
Raymond Lim, CEO of Cortina Holdings

Currently in the hands of three generations of the Lim family, Cortina Watch celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2022 with much fanfare, and saw no fewer than eight brand partners joining in the festivities with special limited edition creations. Patek Philippe came in with the Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline” dome clock, as well as the Cortina-exclusive Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 with a unique triple-row hobnail guilloché bezel.

This is the second such reference that Patek Philippe has made for Cortina; the first was a rose gold one made in 1997 on the occasion of the retailer’s 25th anniversary — and one can only imagine what might arrive on its diamond jubilee. Other brands that created special editions for Cortina Watch include Cartier, Chopard, Franck Muller, H. Moser & Cie., TAG Heuer, Blancpain and Corum, many of which are gem-set models, underscoring the retailer’s forte in ultra precious timepieces.

Patek Philippe Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline” dome clock for Cortina Watch
Cartier Baignoire Allongée MM Cortina Watch Golden Jubilee Edition

Indeed, Cortina Watch has carved a strong niche with gem-set timepieces and gem-set high complications. At the turn of the millennium, the retailer brought forth new perspectives in haute horlogerie, recognizing the growing interest in sophisticated jewelry timepieces, and established the Jewelry Time exhibition series.

Held from 2000 to 2014, this was a biennial event merging the exquisite crafts of high jewelry with high watchmaking, encouraging watch enthusiasts to embrace the glamorous side of watch appreciating. In 2001, Cortina Watch introduced the then-new “Espace” retail concept, which swiftly won the “Best Retail Concept of the Year” award from the Singapore Retailers’ Association.

Rolex boutique at Gurney Plaza, Malaysia

The “Espace” concept was subsequently adopted in its flagship stores in Malaysia and Thailand, marking a key milestone for the company just before its 30th anniversary 2002 when it eventually went public on the Singapore Stock Exchange.

Suffice it to say, Cortina Watch has evolved far beyond its humble origins, ranking high among the very best in global luxury watch retail today. Likewise, Sincere Fine Watches has developed its unique voice in independent watchmaking retail, which is something it has always been championing, being the exclusive distributor of Franck Muller in Southeast Asia and Australia for more than 30 years.

Passion for Horology

With watch connoisseurs showing increased interest in independent watchmaking, Cortina Holdings swiftly moved to take the luxury consumer even further into the intricacies and wonders of this unique segment of fine watchmaking, specifically, through the new high watchmaking division earmarked as SHH (Sincere Haute Horlogerie), which is managed by third generation member of the Cortina founding family, Kate Lim, alongside CEO of Sincere Fine Watches, Ong Ban. After all, to delve deeply into the art of haute horlogerie, and to revel in the traditional handcraftsmanship, finishing and savoir faire, one only needs to take a glance at the many horological vanguards on display for instant gratification.

Conceptualized to resemble a contemporary art museum rather than a classic retail store, SHH reprises its role as the curator of thematic spaces for watch lovers to gather and share in their passion for exceptional timepieces.

CEO of Sincere Fine Watches, Ong Ban
General Manager of Sincere Fine Watches, Kate Lim

Here, the watches are handpicked based on horological excellence whether in terms of mechanical mastery, sheer handcrafted artistry or technical originality. In addition, the visual merchandizing isn’t always organized by brand — since the creations are so highly exclusive — but rather, by sheer horological ingenuity.

Every timepiece on display is a wonder unto itself, from the celestial complications of Christiaan van der Klaauw and the state-of-the-art Mirrored Force Resonance of Armin Strom to the mechanical wizardry of a Greubel Forsey, the grandeur of a Fabergé, and the unique allure of brands such as Lange & Heyne and Grönefeld. Within this hallowed realm, there is no space for mediocrity and even the simplest creations are executed with utmost finesse.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force SHH Edition
Christiaan van der Klaauw CVDK Planetarium Eise Eisinga Black DLC SHH Edition for SHH Pendulum

Re-entering the market in 2022, SHH is now officially present in Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and Taiwan, with the Kuala Lumpur boutique poised to become the new global flagship of this bold new concept. Its sprawling 5,000-square-foot store spans two floors situated within Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, occupying its own glamorous façade and a private vehicle drop-off point.

Gleaming showcases invite you to peer into the miniature universes of each haute horlogerie creation while thematic timepiece exhibitions curated by the passionate team behind SHH are certain to spark intrigue in watch connoisseurs of all levels. Moreover, this boutique offers a multi-sensorial experience and even includes an exclusive dining room where guest chefs from all over the world will be cooking up a storm.

SHH Boutique at Pavilion, Kuala Lumpur

From luxury watch icons and retailer exclusive timepieces to fine handcraftsmanship and unique experiences in horology, Cortina Watch and Sincere Fine Watches come together to complete the retail big picture for Cortina Holdings, and show how swiftly the company responds to the rapidly changing trends in luxury watch retail. Today’s luxury consumers are increasingly savvy but so are these retailers who understand the market and have built such strong bonds with their customers over the years that it’s not so much a clientele but a community of watch enthusiasts who gather over a shared passion for horology — and this has been the case for both Cortina Watch and Sincere Fine Watches since the beginning.

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From the Shop

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post How Cortina Watch and Sincere Fine Watches placed their strength in numbers appeared first on Revolution Watch.

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