Cheryl Chia, Author at Revolution Watch

A Closer Look: Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Cheryl Chia — Fri, 09 Feb 2024 10:00:07 +0000

A Closer Look: Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Stealth yet striking, the latest Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic is a versatile piece both in dimensions and design, with a high build quality and proprietary movement to match.

News

By Cheryl Chia

Feb 9, 2024

The BR 03 Cyber Ceramic launched recently makes for an interesting arc of development from the BR 01 Cyber Skull – a futuristic timepiece that falls within the broader category of artistic and cultural expressions in horological history known as memento mori, poignant reminders of mortality. Retaining the angular, faceted case, the Cyber Ceramic boasts more compact dimensions, measuring 42mm by 43.7mm compared to the Skull’s imposing 45mm by 46.7mm size.

But more than that, while the Cyber Skull features a movement with its base plate and bridges forming the shape of a skull and crossbones, the Cyber Ceramic adopts a subtler approach, with a gentler, more approachable architecture that hints at the skull motif without overtly embracing it. The result is something far more versatile, with the capacity, we think, to reach a wider audience. While design-led watches have been a recurring focus at Bell & Ross in recent times, it makes for an interesting subcategory where mechanics are put directly at the service of aesthetics, recalling the high-concept watchmaking of the early aughts.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic with its base plate and bridges forming the outline of crossbones (Image: Revolution©)

From professional instruments to high design watches

Over the past nearly three decades, Bell & Ross has undergone quite a remarkable and considered evolution. The brand’s journey began in stark black and white, adhering strictly to military specifications. Produced by Sinn, the initial watches were an exercise in rugged practicality and legibility, designed as tools for professionals engaged in high-performance endeavors.

A decade later, Chanel acquired a minority stake in the brand, prompting the shift of production to Switzerland. From 2005 onward, Bell & Ross introduced its now iconic BR square watches, drawing direct inspiration from the cockpit dashboards of military aircraft. Over the next decade, the BR 01 gave rise to the bigger, bolder BR-X, which served as a canvas for forward designs and complications.

The iconic BR 01

In 2019, the BR 05 line emerged, comprising steel sports watches with integrated bracelets, inspired by the brand’s signature circle-within-a-square case design. The collection’s success led to the development of the BR-X5 range, featuring highly advanced movements produced by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer now owned by Tudor and Chanel.

Bell & Ross BR 05 (Image: Revolution©)

All this while, since 2009, Bell & Ross has consistently produced skull-themed watches that grew in sophistication in tandem with the brand’s technological and mechanical ambitions. Initially, the skull-and-crossbones motif adorned the case and dial design, later extending its presence into the movement itself with creations like the Laughing Skull, which not only incorporated a form movement but also an automaton where the skull’s jaw actually moves when the watch is wound.

BR 01 Laughing Skull Diamonds

The BR 01 Cyber Skull was launched in 2021 and with it, the debut of a boldly modern polygonal, faceted case and movement, described by the brand as taking inspiration from the sharp-edged fuselages of stealth aircraft. The facets not only lend a contemporary edge but also creates somewhat of a pixelated effect, reminiscent of digital imagery, hence its name Cyber.

Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull (©Revolution)

As part of the Cyber collection, the BR 03 Cyber Ceramic also features a faceted case and movement. It’s a monochromatic iteration of the Cyber Rainbow that was submitted to the ill-fated Only Watch auction in 2023. Notably, the movement was constructed to bear a fleeting resemblance to a skull and the overall effect is rather intriguing.

Bare Bones

As with the skull-shaped movement in the Cyber Skull, the movement in the Cyber Ceramic was developed by Concepto, the complication specialist responsible for some of the most exhilarating, high-concept – and costly – watches we have seen in the market in recent years. Dubbed the BR-CAL.383, the movement is self-winding with a black skeletonized main plate and bridges. There is no dial; instead, the indices are printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal. The main plate and bridges form the outline of crossbones supporting in place a wheel train that is rhodium plated, creating a striking contrast and the impression of a skull.

The skeletonised barrel drum and ratchet wheel allows the state of wind to be visually estimated (Image: Revolution©)

While it might not be immediately apparent, its construction has been carefully thought-out to arrive at this effect. At 12 o’clock is the mainspring barrel which offers a 48-hour power reserve. The barrel cover has been skeletonized, along with its drum and ratchet wheel on the reverse, which enables the state of wind to be visually approximated. Notably, the movement is laid out to minimize overlapping and showcase as much of the going train and the other components as possible. Thus, it features an indirect drive minute hand. Rather than being located in the center, the second wheel is located on the left side of the barrel, and an extension wheel drives the motion works. The gear train is arranged on the left side before being taken inwards towards the balance wheel, subtly mimicking the shape of a skull.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic (Image: Revolution©)

Additionally, to achieve a cleaner appearance on the dial side where the components create a skull-like semblance, the majority of the keyless works such as the setting lever, yoke, and spring are positioned on the reverse side of the movement.

The keyless works are located on the back to preserve the subtle effect of a skull and crossbones on the front (Image: Revolution©)

The bridges have a uniform sandblasted finish throughout which creates a textured surface on the facets, dispersing light in different directions without being overly reflective. The hour and minute hands are also black and micro-blasted. They are filled with grey Super-Luminova, enabling them to somewhat blend into the bridges while still being legible.

Compact Facetted Case

Executed in black ceramic, the futuristic case is an interpretation of the classic square BR 03 case. It features a two-part construction, consisting of the case back and bezel. On the wrist, its quality is indisputable. It was manufactured by G&F Châtelain, a renowned case and bracelet maker owned by Chanel. The bezel features eight sides with sloping and faceted surfaces. This is achieved with a diamond grinding process where diamond powder is used as an abrasive material to shape it. The corner facets do well in enhancing the outline of the crossbones on the bridges, creating a strong aesthetic unity between the case and movement.

At 42mm, the watch sits low and compact on the wrist because there are effectively no lugs extending from beyond the case, and the sloping facets also make it feel less broad.

The radically redesigned case with integrated lugs (Image: Revolution©)

The watch has an air of effortlessness but is so much more in execution and effect. While it is one of the pricier time-only watches from Bell & Ross, it is reasonably priced given the quality of the case and movement and is ultimately one of those watches with the capacity to offer far more than you initially anticipated.

Tech Specs

Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Movement: Self-winding calibre BR-CAL.383; 48-hour power reserve; 4Hz (28,800vph)
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: Black ceramic; 42mm by 43.7mm; water-resistant up to 30m
Strap: Black rubber with black PVD pin steel buckle
Price: EUR 13,600, or SGD 18,800
Availability: Limited to 500 pieces

Reference

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Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post A Closer Look: Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The Technical Evolution of the Piaget Polo

Cheryl Chia — Wed, 07 Feb 2024 14:40:09 +0000

The Technical Evolution of the Piaget Polo

As the Piaget Polo makes a comeback in all its golden gadrooned glory, we look at how its movement has evolved from the original 7P quartz to the self-winding ultra-thin caliber 1200P today.

News

By Cheryl Chia

Feb 7, 2024

Although the ‘70s is often recalled as the period when Swiss watchmaking had a near-death experience due to the rise of low-cost quartz watches, it was also one of the most fascinating eras in watch design. As rates of production rocketed on the other side of the world, the industry responded by introducing several models that redefined watches as stylish accessories. The first watch that ignited this shift was the Royal Oak of 1972, followed by the Nautilus four years later. Other notable entries included the lavish all-gold Vacheron 222 in 1977 and the first Cartier Santos with an integrated bracelet in 1978. However, as the ‘80s got underway, there was a watch that marked an entirely new expression that arguably represented the ultimate evolution of the genre – the Piaget Polo.

Here was a watch that was an outright manifestation of extravagance. While the Vacheron 222 featured a brass dial, the dial of the Polo, along with its case and bracelet were made out of 18k gold, melded into one seamless, unbroken design. Yves Piaget, the fourth descendant of the family firm, had designed the watch to meet the demands of American high society for a sports watch. By the turn of the decade, Piaget was deeply associated with the world of Polo, a seemingly perfect blend of luxury and sport that served as the namesake and inspiration for the new watch.

Piaget Polo collection circa 1982

The Piaget Polo emerged as a jewelry sports watch with a remarkably sophisticated design that bore witness to Piaget’s goldsmithing expertise. Its distinction lay in the flawless harmony achieved not only between the case and bracelet but also in the melding of the dial and bezel, where the polished gadroons seamlessly flowed from the dial to the bezel. This effect was all the more pronounced given the absence of numerals, as the hours were delicately marked by discreet dots. On top of that, for the larger, time-only models, there was no visible crown; instead the crown was tucked away on the case back. It was available in men’s and women’s sizes and in round or square cases. While the Polo is primarily celebrated for its design and bracelet making art, its movement demonstrates an intriguing development.

Over time, the model has been adapted to resonate with the prevailing trends of the times, experiencing a revival in 2001, which coincided with a decade that not only witnessed a trend toward larger watches but also proved exceptionally fecund for mechanical innovation, resulting in watches such as the Polo Tourbillon Relatif. The next revival came in 2016 with the Polo S just as steel sports watches became in vogue. However, this article will focus on the full gold original and the modern reissue.

The Ultra-Thin Quartz Calibre

In 1962, more than a decade before the Polo, Piaget became part of the consortium of 21 Swiss manufacturers, collectively known as the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH), that funded the research and development of the first Swiss quartz watch movement. This resulted in the Beta 21 that was brought to market in 1969. It was a large rectangular movement measuring 30.9 by 26.5mm, with a thickness of 6.2 mm—more than three times thicker than Piaget’s mechanical hand-wound 9P caliber. Given Piaget’s preference for slender watchmaking, the Beta 21 was deemed unsuitable. However, as part of the CEH agreement, Piaget briefly utilized the Beta 21 in the rectangular Piaget ref. 14101 model (before the Polo, watch models had no name).

Figure 1. Beta 21

Then, in 1976, Piaget developed its own quartz caliber 7P, which was the world’s flattest quartz movement at the time with a height of just 3.1mm. Its tiny circular shape meant that it could power both round and square watches. The first Polo watches, the men’s 34mm ref. 7661, the midsize 30mm ref. 791, the women’s 27mm ref. 761 as well as the men’s 25mm square version ref. 7131 were all equipped with the 7P but just a year later, it would be succeeded by the calibre 8P, with a height of a mere 1.95mm. The component apart from the battery that takes up considerable space and height in a quartz movement is the stepping motor, which converts electrical pulses generated by the quartz crystal into precise, incremental mechanical movements, driving the hands of the watch. Hence, it had to be modified in the 8P to reduce the overall thickness of the movement.

The 7P (left) and the 8P (right) (Source: Swisswatches Magazine)

Following the debut of the initial time-only Polos, Piaget expanded its collection with the introduction of the Polo Date 32mm ref. 15561 and 30mm ref. 15791, along with the Polo Day-Date 32mm ref. 15562. These watches continued to be powered by quartz movements.

The Little-known Ultra-Thin Automatic

However, a small number of Polo models in the original run were powered by mechanical automatic movements, easily identifiable by the inclusion of the term “automatic” on their dials.

An automatic Polo 27mm Ref. 561 from the '80s. (Source: Christie's)

Interestingly, rather than using its own legendary micro-rotor calibre 12P invented two decades earlier, Piaget utilized the caliber 25P for the 27mm ref. 561 above. It is uncertain if all automatic models used the same movement. The caliber 25P was derived from the little-known Jean Lassale self-winding calibre 2000, which at a mere 2.08mm high, continues to hold the title of the world’s thinnest full-rotor automatic movement to this day.

Apart from Piaget, Jean Lassale was one of the key players in the realm of ultra-thin watchmaking during the ‘70s. The Lassale Calibre 2000, along with its hand-wound counterpart, the Calibre 1200, measuring an insane 1.2mm in height, were introduced in 1976. Unfortunately, these technical breakthroughs unfolded during the ascent of quartz technology; the company eventually went under and was acquired by Seiko in 1979. The patents, on the other hand, went to Nouvelle Lemania in 1982 who continued to produce the calibers 1200 and 2000, initially exclusively for Piaget and later for several other brands, including Vacheron Constantin and Cartier, as the Lemania calibre 1210 and 2010 respectively.

Piaget likely chose the Lassale calibre 2000 over the 12P for the Polo due to its notably smaller dimensions, measuring 20.4mm wide compared to the 28.1mm of the 12P, allowing it to fit into a wide range of smaller cases. The Lassale calibre represented several intriguing and unusual solutions that arguably paved the way for more substantial developments in the field of ultra-thin watchmaking, such as the use of the caseback as the base plate.

To suppress the height of the movement, the wheel train and keyless works are spread out entirely on the horizontal plane in the Lassale caliber. The intermediate winding wheels and crown wheel, traditionally arranged on separate levels on the front and back, are situated on the same plane on the dial side.

The mainspring barrel drives the centre pinion and motion works directly while the going train is laid out in a crescent shape at the edge of the movement, distributed across both the front and back of the base plate. Most notably, the majority of wheels including the crown wheel are inset into the base plate and supported only on one side only. There are no bridges except for balance wheel. Instead, each wheel runs on ball bearings with the races installed in the base plate. The mainspring barrel, for instance, is supported on three ball bearings around its periphery.

However, the lack of stability and delicate nature of their construction ultimately made them unreliable and servicing them often meant swapping out the entire movement. Nonetheless, the concept of reducing the fundamental structure of a movement would become a mainstay in wafer-thin watchmaking.

The Modern Piaget Calibre 1200P

The Polo 79 with a 38mm case

Over two decades have elapsed since the original run of the monochromatic gold Polo watches. During this time, Piaget’s expertise in ultra-thin construction has continued to evolve, having set and broken records for the thinnest production watch across various areas of ultra-thin watchmaking, with only a handful of rivals able to best it. Today, the newly unveiled Polo 79 is powered by the Piaget ultra-thin self-winding calibre 1200P, a proven performer that measures just 2.35mm high. This makes the Polo 79 the first all-gold model to be equipped with an in-house ultra-thin automatic movement.

The 2.35mm calibre 1200P

Slimming automatic winding movements is inherently more challenging, as the design must balance structural integrity, winding efficiency while incorporating smaller and leaner parts. The calibre 1200P was the thinnest ultra-thin automatic movement in production when it was launched in 2010. It was cased in the 43mm Altiplano, which had an overall thickness of 5.25 mm, making it the world’s thinnest watch that same year.

The 1200P is an evolution of the landmark 12P from 1960 with improved performance on various fronts, including frequency and power reserve from 2.75Hz to 3Hz and 40 hours to 44 hours respectively. Like the 12P, it incorporates a micro-rotor at nine o’clock. The advantages of a micro-rotor winding system are evident: the winding mechanism is completely recessed into the movement itself, rather than being above the top plate, which more or less doubles its height. But the challenge lies in having to compensate for the reduced diameter by increasing its weight, so that the moment of inertia remains sufficient. In this case, the rotor is made of 24k gold for greater inertia. At the same time, the rotor runs on a ball-bearing system and thus loss of energy due to friction is virtually zero.

As opposed to the 12P, the 1200P has a hanging barrel, meaning it has no upper bridge and is only supported from beneath. The gear train is laid out vertically next to the offset rotor. Certain wheels were flattened from the traditional 0.2mm to a mere 0.12mm. However, the movement has a classically solid construction, with a large bridge supporting the going the train. In all, the 1200P perhaps represents the practical threshold of ultra-thin watchmaking achievable with traditional materials and construction, all while offering peace of mind.

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Limited Edition

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor "Purple Reign" x Revolution

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TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber PF703; 48-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, Minutes, Date
Case	40mm; polished and satin-finished stainless steel with platinum knurled bezel; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Purple; rhodium-plated applied hour markers
Strap	Polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet
Limited Edition	Limited and numbered edition of 50 pieces

The post The Technical Evolution of the Piaget Polo appeared first on Revolution Watch.

In the Making: Part 2 – Sartory Billard SB08 Jump Hour and Minutes with Tourbillon

Cheryl Chia — Fri, 02 Feb 2024 11:00:25 +0000

In the Making: Part 2 – Sartory Billard SB08 Jump Hour and Minutes with Tourbillon

In the second instalment of this series, we delve into the ongoing design phase, shedding light on the progress made and hurdles confronted in refining the complex movement of the Sartory Billard SB08 Jump Hour and Minutes with Tourbillon.

Technical

By Cheryl Chia

Feb 2, 2024

Having begun on a journey to create a highly complex jump hour and minutes tourbillon watch a year ago, Sartory Billard is currently in the advanced stages of the design process, where both the dial and movement are almost finalised.

To recap in brief, after designing an array of remarkably successful, fully customisable time-only watches, namely the automatic SB04, the hand-wound SB05, and the SB07 sports watch, Armand Billard decided it was time to venture into the realm of complications. At the tail end of last year, the brand unveiled its first tourbillon watch – the SB06 Flying Tourbillon, which was a project that stemmed from a request by Cronotempvs, a private collector’s club in Spain. For the SB08, Armand decided on a digital hours and minutes complication, a choice intended to liberate a considerable expanse of the dial for personalized customization.

Watches with jumping displays, as it is, present significant challenges for watchmakers as discs are much heavier than conventional hands, which not only affects power reserve but also leads to a drop in amplitude, particularly when all three discs advance simultaneously at the top of each hour. However, the SB08 is also a tourbillon, which makes things far more complicated in terms of power management. In fact, this is the first-ever tourbillon watch with a both jumping hour and minutes. To do this, Armand enlisted the help of movement developer Mathieu Cleguer.

In Part 1 of the series we ran, Mathieu had designed the movement with the crown wheel positioned at 12 o’clock, driving two parallel mainspring barrels. The gear train powers a remontoir that releases energy to power the jump of at least one disc each minute as well as drive the rotation of the tourbillon. The minutes unit disc is mounted directly on the pivot of the remontoir wheel, sequentially triggering the jump of the minutes tens and hour discs through a system of Maltese crosses.

Since then, the entire construction has evolved substantially, with notable refinements and developments, particularly in the areas of hand-setting and bridge design.

Fundamental changes in construction

Originally, the jumping display, which consists of Maltese crosses and three discs, was intended to be located on the dial side of the base plate. But for ease of assembly and adjustment, Mathieu decided to separate the chronometry part of the movement from the jumping display. As such, the jumping display is assembled on a separate plate beneath the dial and is connected to the base plate via a pinion that drives the minutes units disc directly.

Initially, the crown was intended to be positioned at 12 o’clock for symmetry. However, the team later opted to relocate the crown to the traditional three o’clock position. This was driven by a desire to infuse a sense of classicism into what will be a largely contemporary design, as well as to ensure ergonomic winding. Additionally, this also ensures the winding stem will be closer to the minutes units disc (more on that later).

However, the process of moving the crown to three proved to be far easier said than done and it took numerous revisions to arrive at the final design. Initially, Mathieu decided to essentially rotate the movement by 90° such that the barrels now occupy the left half of the movement. At the same time, he had to make adjustments to the layout of gear train to visually optimise the available space that is now present at the bottom right quadrant of the movement. In the initial design (1A), he brought the tourbillon inward from the edge and added two co-axial, intermediate wheels before the remontoir wheel to occupy the empty space at the bottom right quadrant.

Figure 1A. The first design to relocate the crown to the three o'clock position

He also reconfigured the remontoir anchor and fork to reside further inside the movement, rather than at the edge. However, in this design, the co-axial wheels overlap the barrel and limits the height of the remontoir mechanism on the next axis. This was addressed in the next two designs (1B & 1C) in which he centralised the second and third wheels in the going train.

Figure 1B. In the second design, the second wheel is shifted toward the center to minimize overlapping and is driven by the barrels via pinions

Figure 1C. The third design, where the barrels are mounted lid up, with the ratchet and crown wheels located on the dial side. The three wheels located on the left quadrant form part of the time-setting train in order to reach the minutes disc

However, a more significant challenge arose when designing the time-setting mechanism. In a watch with conventional hands, time can be adjusted when the sliding pinion comes into contact with the minute wheel in the motion works via an intermediate wheel. However, in this case, the intermediate wheel has to be connected to the pinion of the minute units disc, which is too far away. A long and convoluted train of wheels had to be introduced to traverse the distance.

Additionally, during time-setting, the remontoir has to be isolated to ensure precise adjustment. Consequently, the minutes units disc can no longer be affixed to the pivot of the remontoir wheel. At the same time, Armand and Mathieu both felt that vertical symmetry is visually more compelling than horizonal, and they returned to where they started.

In the final design, the barrels are located at the top of the movement. They are mounted lid up from the bridge side with the ratchet wheels located beneath. As such, the crown wheel is also located on the dial side of the movement.

The final design

Dial side view of the movement with the base plate removed

As before, the remontoir is located on the fourth wheel (third wheel in the gear train). The outer curve of the remontoir spring is pinned to a stud and fastened to a mobile stud holder on the ratchet stop wheel. The stud holder can be moved sideways to adjust the stiffness of the spring. The spring is wound by the gear train but is released only every minute by the advancement of the ratchet stop wheel.

The one-minute remontoir mechanism

The stop wheel is unlocked by a pallet jewel on an anchor, which is connected to a fork. The motion of the fork is in turn governed by a Reuleaux triangle located on the fifth wheel. Thus, at every 60° turn of the Reuleaux triangle, the anchor unlocks one teeth of the stop wheel, releasing energy to the rest of the gear train until the second jewel pallet prevents the stop wheel from advancing further, thereby tensioning the remontoir spring once again. Beneath the fourth wheel on the same axis are two pinions – one pinion is fixed to the staff of the ratchet stop wheel while the second pinion is rotatably mounted.

Pinion of the remontoir wheel above and the pinion that drives the minutes units disc below

The most formidable challenge, aside from the intricacies of the complication itself, lay in the design of the keyless works. Due to the unconventional display that is powered by the remontoir, designing the keyless works, particularly the time-setting mechanism, proved to be far from intuitive. The team decided that the hours and minutes will be set in the first position and winding the mainspring barrels is achieved with the crown in the neutral position.

Mathieu arrived at an ingenious design that isolates the remontoir during time-setting. The time-setting mechanism has a rocker that carries a set of intermediate pinions — two on one end and a pair of superimposed pinions on the other. During the standard operation of the watch when the crown is in the neutral position, the superimposed pinions, which are fixed to a staff by a pin, meshes with the two pinions beneath the remontoir wheel, synchronising them to drive the pinion of the minutes disc.

But when the crown is pulled out to the second position to set the time, the rocker pivots and the superimposed pinions disengages from the pinions on the remontoir staff to allow them to rotate independently. At the same time, the other two pinions on the free end of the rocker is positioned to be driven by a third pinion, which is in turn driven through a series of gears by the intermediate winding wheel. The outer pinion drives the bottommost pinion on the remontoir staff, which in turn drives the pinion of the minutes unit disc, effectively isolating the remontoir.

The jumping time display itself has also been refined. The pinion of the minutes units disc is driven by the pinion of the remontoir wheel, enabling it to leap forward at the top of each minute. Every 10 minutes, the finger on the disc advances a six-branch Maltese cross that is attached to a 60-minute intermediate wheel. It drives a smaller intermediate wheel at a 2:1 ratio, and affixed to this wheel is a cam bearing three equidistant raised hooks, functioning as fingers to incrementally advance the minutes tens disc. The minutes tens disc has been designed with 12 branches, which is necessary for controlled intermittent motion.

The time display mechanism with the hour disc removed.

As the Maltese cross completes a full rotation in an hour, a finger piece advances a 12-branch Maltese cross, to which the hour disc is affixed. The hour Maltese cross now features a skeletonised design to reduce inertia.

Bridge design and finishing

The bridge layout has undergone a complete overhaul, resulting in a significantly more striking and exuberant movement. The new design is intended to showcase a variety of finishing techniques and to make as much of the components visible as possible. The base plate will be finished with frosting while its recesses will be decorated with perlage. The barrels are supported by a bat-shaped bridge, which is accentuated by a raised border that is straight-grained on its top surface and polished, bevelled on its outer edges. Its recesses, on the other hand, are frosted. It features large jewels that sit in deep, polished countersinks.

The bridge layout was designed to show off as much of the wheel train and the other components as possible as well as a variety of finishing techniques

The second wheel is supported by a V-shaped sapphire bridge while the entire remontoir mechanism is left exposed beneath a larger sapphire bridge. Additionally, this larger bridge has an aperture, providing a clear view of the Reuleaux triangle in action. Notably, all the exposed wheels in the gear train, along with the remontoir stop wheel will have polished and bevelled spokes with sharp internal angles. Lastly, supporting the intermediate wheel and pinions in the keyless works on the left is a black-polished bridge of an intricate shape, which lends itself to a total of nine sharp internal angles.

This example features monochromatic wheels and bridges contrasted against a striking purple base plate

Dial design

Right from the outset, the movement was designed for the aperture of the jumping display to be positioned at six o’clock on the dial, which leaves the rest of the dial free to be embellished. Armand, however, decided to design another version of the dial for those seeking a touch of French flair. It features a cut-out that resembles the shape of a keyhole, providing a peek into the inner workings of the display mechanism. It enables a clearer view of the jumping action of the hour disc as the central hub is exposed. Additionally, the skeletonised Maltese cross behind the hour hub can also be seen engaging with a finger piece on the right.

The smoked sapphire aperture reveals the central hub of the hour disc. Behind it lies the skeletonized Maltese cross, which is advanced by a finger piece on the right.

This design is particularly well-suited for guilloché and stone dials. This example features a lapis lazuli dial, complemented by a blue sapphire aperture

A nuanced yet impactful element that truly elevated the design of the dial was the addition of an elliptical metal border. It subtly draws emphasis to the digital display, contributing to a more refined appearance overall.

The solid dial version is the perfect canvas for pictorial decoration such as miniature painting and engraving

An example with a lab-grown osmium dial under a domed sapphire crystal

Armand and his team are progressing to the next phase of development, where they will consult with movement makers and specialists. Once again, they remain open to feedback and new perspectives along the way. For enquiries about the subscription series, please reach out to Sartory Billard through their official website.

Reference

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Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post In the Making: Part 2 – Sartory Billard SB08 Jump Hour and Minutes with Tourbillon appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

Cheryl Chia — Thu, 25 Jan 2024 09:00:09 +0000

The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

A guide to Grand Seiko’s 9S family of movements, culminating in the latest 9SC5 in the Tentagraph, the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph.

Feature

By Cheryl Chia

Jan 25, 2024

Grand Seiko’s well-earned reputation for technical quality, innovation and foresight precedes it. In the past three years alone, it has built the wonderfully impressive Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon (SLGT001), featuring a tourbillon and a co-axially integrated remontoir, as well as developed an impressive high performance movement, the 9SA5, bringing to market a brand-new escapement — a feat as rare in watchmaking as finding a four-leaf clover in a concrete jungle. Last year, the brand introduced the Tentagraph, its first mechanical chronograph that benefits from the exceptional foundation of the 9SA5.

Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon (SLGT001)

Grand Seiko Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001

As the high-end expression of one of the world’s greatest watch companies, Grand Seiko embodies a philosophy rooted in crafting timepieces of impeccable quality that seamlessly blend traditional craftsmanship and cutting- edge technology. Above all, these watches stand as paragons of reliability and precision — a reflection of the Japanese industrial tradition’s relentless pursuit of refining every aspect of an object to a state of transcendent perfection.

Since Grand Seiko expanded beyond its domestic market in 2010, there has been a growing recognition that Grand Seiko watches, as evident in the quality of their cases, dials, hands and movements, give up nothing to their Swiss counterparts.

Historically, the brand was the preserve of mechanical watches produced in small numbers, but today it represents the pinnacle of three distinct branches of technical accomplishment. The first is the 9F ultra high accuracy, thermo-compensated quartz movements introduced in 1993, followed by the 9R Spring Drive movement with automatic winding, unveiled in 2004 — both produced by Seiko Epson, formerly Suwa Seikōsha. The third is the 9S mechanical movement by Seiko Instruments, formerly Daini Seikōsha, engineered to rival the very best of Swiss watchmaking. While all three groups of movements exemplify a level of finesse and care in construction that is worthy of equal admiration, our attention today will be directed toward the 9S family of movements as they celebrate their 25th anniversary this year.

A new beginning: The 9S55 and 9S65

In 1998, the introduction of the caliber 9S at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Iwate prefecture represented Grand Seiko’s first mechanical movement since 1976, marking the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking at the brand. It was also that year where Grand Seiko updated the now famous “Grand Seiko Standard” of a mean daily rate of between -3/+5 seconds, initially established in 1966. All 9S calibers today undergo an extensive 17-day testing process, evaluated in six positions — surpassing the standard set by the dominant industry testing body, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), which is a 15-day examination and in five positions. Likewise, temperature assessments are more demanding, requiring movements to achieve superior accuracy levels of ±0.5 seconds per day per degree Celsius within specific temperature ranges (between 8°C and 23°C, and between 23°C and 38°C), compared to the COSC’s ±0.6 seconds per day per degree Celsius standard.

Right from the outset, the 9S family of movements were intended to compete in terms of performance and finishing with the best mass-produced automatic movements on the market, such as those of Rolex and Patek Philippe. It was the first movement family to benefit from Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) technology. CAD software allowed engineers and designers to create detailed virtual models of movements and gear profiles, while CAM software assisted in turning those designs into physical prototypes or finished parts by controlling machining tools and processes. These systems helped optimize the product development cycle, improving precision, efficiency, and accuracy in manufacturing while making genuine improvements from previous movement designs.

The first generation of 9S5X calibers launched in 1998 was designed to provide a beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour while delivering an extended power reserve of 50 hours, surpassing the standard 45 to 48 hours found in a majority of movements on the market at that time. It differed on a fundamental level from the 5600 and 5200 family of calibers, which powered the Lord Matic, King Seiko and Grand Seiko watches until 1976, as it was designed with a directly driven central seconds, with the fourth wheel located in the center of the movement — an indication that it was built from the ground up as a modern caliber. It was also equipped with automatic bi-directional winding via Seiko’s patented Magic Lever system which boasts a simplicity in design that contributes to its overall robustness.

The 9S caliber was initially introduced in two versions: the time-only 9S51 and the 9S55 with date. A manual winding version, the 9S54, was introduced in 2001 followed by a GMT version, the 9S56, in 2002. In 2010, Grand Seiko made significant improvements to the caliber, notably increasing its power reserve to 72 hours, resulting in the 9S65. The fundamental gear train arrangement remains identical to its predecessor, with a directly driven central seconds. However, the escape wheel and pallet fork are fabricated using the microelectromechanical systems (MEMS) process known as LIGA, the German acronym for Lithographie, Galvanoformung, Abformung (“lithography, electroplating, molding”), an additive microelectromechanical technique that allows for extreme precision and intricate shapes. The resulting escapement is made up of parts skeletonized to minimize inertia.

Grand Seiko SBGR001 with calibre 9S55 (Image: eBay)

Caliber 9S65

The significance of the escape wheel’s inertia lies in its positioning at the end of the gear train. It is therefore the fastest wheel in the movement and also the one with the least torque, being the furthest away from the mainspring. Its inertia is multiplied by the number of turns it has to make for every revolution of the fourth wheel. Thus, despite its typically lightweight and small size, the escape wheel’s inertia exerts the most influence among all the wheels in the going train. As such, reducing its inertia plays a huge role in extending its power reserve to 72 hours. In addition, both the mainspring and hairspring utilize an advanced series of Spron alloys — the Spron 610, composed of iron, nickel, chromium, cobalt, niobium and titanium. It exhibits increased strength and hardness, along with an exceptional resistance to magnetism, corrosion and temperature fluctuations, essentially sharing similar properties to silicon without the brittleness. Its high elasticity also ensures it does not deform easily and therefore maintains its mechanical properties and performance over extended use.

The 610 Spron mainspring offers greater strength and resistance to magnetism, temperature fluctuations and corrosion

While its predecessor used Seiko’s Magic Lever mechanism, the caliber 9S65 employs a reverser gear train, which has less play or backlash. Pawls and ratchet wheel, compared to precisely meshed gear teeth in regular gears, could contribute to minor energy losses through increased friction or less direct power transfer. Reversers sit on posts so the alignment of teeth between each reverser wheel is fixed and better engaged. Additionally, the reverser mechanism is made up of hardened components to increase its strength, durability and resistance to wear.

Grand Seiko has since filled out an entire family of movements around the 9S65, which includes the automatic 9S66 GMT version, the manual winding 9S64 as well as the manual winding 9S63 with indirectly driven small seconds.

Caliber 9S64

In pursuit of precision: The 9S85

During the Swiss timing trials of the 1960s, Suwa Seikōsha and Daini Seikōsha learned that higher frequency movements were unquestionably superior in maintaining a stable rate. After Seiko’s sweeping victories led to the termination of observatory competitions in 1968, both began introducing Grand Seiko watches with a vibration period of one tenth of a second, that is 36,000 vibrations per hour, which is a useful improvement in daily rate stability, particularly for a wristwatch.

In 2009, Grand Seiko reintroduced high frequency mechanical movements in the form of the 9S85. Compared to the first generation 9S5X series, the Hi-Beat caliber 9S85 not only raised its beat rate to 36,000vph, but notably also extended its power reserve to 55 hours. This was achieved by increasing the diameter of the movement from 25.6mm to 28.4mm, enabling it to accommodate a larger mainspring barrel. Additionally, like the 9S65, the springs at the extreme ends of the wheel train utilize the Spron 610 alloy, which is highly resistant to breakage, strain-induced fatigue and temperature fluctuations. It is nonmagnetic and due to its strength and hardness, offers an even power delivery throughout the course of its power reserve.

An example of classic Grand Seiko watchmaking, the Hi-Beat Calibre 9S85 is a strong and precise movement, designed for longevity

Fundamentally, an increase in frequency, and therefore the angular velocity of the balance, results in an oscillator that is less susceptible to external disturbances. However, a high speed escapement demands greater energy and results in greater friction and wear on the components, essentially causing lubricants to run out faster, which would necessitate more frequent servicing. To mitigate this, both the escape wheel and pallet fork are fabricated using LIGA. The resulting escapement consists of lightweight, corrosion resistant, and nonmagnetic skeletonized components made from nickel-phosphorus. The new escape wheel design also features oil reservoirs at the tip of each gear tooth to improve oil retention. Furthermore, to minimize friction on the pivots in the gear train, an additional wheel was introduced between the fourth wheel and escape wheel to distribute the load. The 9S85 also employs a standard modern reserver system instead of the Magic Lever mechanism to improve transmission efficiency and reduce energy loss.

The nickel-phosphorus escapement produced via LIGA is made up of skeletonised parts to reduce inertia while also having recesses in the escape wheel teeth for oil retention

A triumph in performance: The 9SA5

In 2020, Grand Seiko unleashed a horological tour de force with the debut of the Hi-Beat 9SA5 movement equipped with a brand-new escapement. In keeping with Grand Seiko’s generally unassuming approach to product names, it is simply called the Dual Impulse escapement.

The Caliber 9SA5, a triumph both aesthetically and mechanically

In watchmaking today, almost all wristwatch escapements, excluding the detent escapement, fall under the category of dual impulse escapements which refers to their ability to deliver two impulses to the balance wheel at each cycle — one at each vibration. This characteristic is pivotal in the development of a modern and practical escapement capable of withstanding external perturbations effectively in a wristwatch.

However, the main difference between each of these dual impulse escapements lies in the way power is delivered to the balance wheel. The main purpose of an escapement is to regulate the discharge of energy by the mainspring, resulting in the turning of the hands, as well as to transmit energy to the balance wheel. In turn, the escape wheel is released and therefore controlled by the oscillation of the balance wheel, which sets a standard for accuracy. The lever escapement has enjoyed an unparalleled dominance in watchmaking since it was invented around 1755 by Englishman Thomas Mudge. It is particularly suited for wristwatches due to its ability to provide two impulses per cycle and self-start, along with its solidity and high degree of detachment, meaning, unlike earlier escapements such as the verge or cylinder escapement, the escape wheel locks free of the balance after delivering energy through the impulse jewel, leaving the balance free during all of its supplementary arc of travel.

However, despite its excellent performance in the short term, its primary flaw that plagued the most genius minds in the annals of horology is its need for lubrication. Both impulses are transmitted indirectly via a lever, which is in turn propelled by the force of the escape wheel teeth contacting the pallet jewels of the lever. The pallet jewels momentarily stop the escape wheel’s rotation and then release it, imparting energy to the balance wheel through the pallet fork. The sliding interaction between the pallet jewels and the escape wheel teeth is essential for controlling the release of energy and regulating the movement of the gear train. However, this sliding action generates friction between these components, making the surfaces vulnerable to wear and tear, rendering lubrication crucial. The inevitable deterioration of an applied lubricant, in turn, has adverse effects on accuracy.

As such, the detent escapement, also known as the chronometer escapement, remained preferred for specialized applications like marine chronometers due to their oil-free operation and direct impulse, offering exceptional accuracy in stationary or controlled environments. However, the primary setback preventing the use of detent escapements in wristwatches is that, unlike the lever escapement, impulse is provided in a single direction — once per oscillation. This design trait renders the detent escapement non-self-starting. In the event the balance is stopped — whether inadvertently or deliberately — the detent escapement cannot resume without assistance, requiring gentle shaking to restart the balance’s oscillation. Furthermore, the delicate detent that locks the escape wheel is prone to disruption by shocks, potentially causing premature unlocking of the escape wheel.

The Dual Impulse Escapement

Hence, many alternative escapements in the market today serve to combine the direct impulse delivery of the detent escapement and the robustness and self-starting ability of the lever escapement. But to dethrone the lever escapement, the design of the new escapement ultimately requires a level of maturity and adaptability to industrial production on top of offering the additional advantage of the elimination or reduction of oil, making such an endeavor an uphill battle that, when conquered, earns its spot in the horological hall of fame.

The only alternative escapement that has been successfully realized on an industrial scale is the Co-Axial escapement invented by George Daniels in 1976, more than two centuries after the invention of the lever escapement. The Co-Axial met all the criteria of a modern, practical escapement. It delivers two impulses to the balance at each cycle, is self-starting and free from the need for lubrication. However, its drawback lies in its somewhat delicate construction, necessitating a pair of co-axially mounted escape wheels which increases inertia and demands care in adjustment to ensure concentricity.

Grand Seiko’s Dual Impulse escapement shares similar qualities to both the Swiss lever as well as the Co-Axial. Like both escapements, the Dual Impulse escapement provides two impulses per cycle — one at each vibration — making it resistant to shocks. But while the lever escapement provides two impulses indirectly via a lever, both the Co-Axial and the Dual Impulse escapement adopts a mixed impulse system: one impulse is given directly to the balance wheel, while the other is delivered indirectly through a lever. This setup therefore suggests that the quality of both impulses might potentially vary, although this is more abstract than a real-life problem.

In this regard, it is impossible to overlook the independent double-wheel escapement, developed by George Daniels as a solution to the natural escapement that eluded Breguet. It is theoretically superior as two escape wheels impulse the balance in opposite directions directly at each cycle, making its power delivery extremely efficient. However, the basic principles of this system, where each escape wheel necessitates its own gear train, proved limiting to the design of the movement as a whole, and the complexity of its construction makes it impossible to industrialize.

While the Co-Axial and Dual Impulse escapements share a fundamental similarity in that one impulse is given directly, their distinction lies in the method of indirect delivery. The Co-Axial employs radial impulse and therefore does not require lubrication. Conversely, the Dual Impulse escapement utilizes a familiar sliding action to deliver impulse to the lever. This reintroduces the need for lubrication, albeit minimal — half that of the Swiss lever. In other words, it offers far greater efficiency compared to the Swiss lever, while being simpler and less finicky than the Co-Axial, requiring just one escape wheel.

Crucially, the Dual Impulse escapement was also designed to operate with low inertia. The pallet fork and lever are produced using LIGA, allowing components to be fabricated with extreme precision, resulting in its intricate, skeletonized geometries that are lighter to ensure quicker acceleration of parts, which is more crucial in a high-beat movement.

The performance gains in the low-inertia, low-friction Dual Impulse escapement translate to a longer power reserve as well as a high beat rate of 36,000vph in the caliber 9SA5 — properties that vary inversely and are rarely found in the same movement. The oscillator also represents several firsts for Grand Seiko — the balance wheel is free sprung, secured on both ends by a balance bridge for greater stability, and is attached to an overcoil hairspring with a proprietary curve developed through over 80,000 computer simulations.

The rest of the movement was designed with a great sense of purpose and logic. Overall, it is slightly wider than the 9S85 to accommodate a pair of serially coupled barrels while being 15 percent slimmer at just 5.18mm high. This is achieved with thinner mainsprings. With a highly efficient escapement, the strength of the mainspring can be reduced to lessen the load and wear on the pivots and wheels, thereby extending service intervals and reducing running costs for the wearer. Additionally, the serially coupled barrels are directly geared to each other as opposed to being connected via an additional wheel, further reducing inertia.

It also features an unusual horizontal gear train arrangement. The gear train consists of five wheels instead of three as the escape wheel has fewer teeth. As such, it is the fifth wheel that drives the centrals seconds directly. Rather than increasing the number of teeth on the escape wheel to achieve a higher beat, two additional wheels were added to distribute the load across more wheels, mitigating wear on the pivots and wheels. Typically, in a movement with serially coupled barrels, the second wheel, which drives the minutes, is located in the middle, overlapping the barrel. But to reduce the height of the movement, the barrel drives a second wheel located on the right of the movement when viewed from the caseback. It is solid rather than spoked for rigidity as it has the greatest load to bear. Beyond that, the design of the movement is as visually attractive as it is remarkably efficient, with a total of four beautifully shaped bridges as well as a skeletonized rotor, allowing the components to be admired. It is also equipped with an instantaneous date-changing mechanism, which switches over in under a second at midnight. All told, the 9SA5 is one of the most sophisticated and impressive automatic movements on the market, offering the exceptionally rare combination of a lengthy power reserve and a high frequency.

Horizontal gear train

The first mechanical chronograph movement: The 9SC5

To the delight of many Grand Seiko devotees this year, the brand introduced its first-ever mechanical chronograph, the Tentagraph (SLGC001). While Grand Seiko has produced chronographs in the past, they were all equipped with Spring Drive movements, demonstrating its penchant for high accuracy chronographs. Given that activating the chronograph would lead to a decrease in balance amplitude, the high performance 9SA5 was perhaps the only worthy base movement in the eyes of Grand Seiko.

Grand Seiko Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001

In the Tentagraph’s 9SC5 movement, the chronograph was built on the superb 9SA5, thereby making it an automatic high frequency chronograph. This means that the 9SC5 movement has a modular construction, where the chronograph plate is located between the calendar plate and the mainplate. While modular chronographs are frequently discussed with less enthusiasm than integrated ones, it is worth keeping in mind that they are often a result of the successful development of a top-tier base movement, which certainly holds true in this instance.

The construction of the chronograph module relies on several tried-and-true approaches characteristic of Grand Seiko’s chronographs. It is governed by a column wheel and relies on a vertical coupling system. It bears remembering that while the El Primero took the lion’s share of attention in the three-way contest to build the world’s first automatic chronograph in 1969, the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer by Suwa Seikōsha was the first column-wheel automatic chronograph to incorporate a vertical clutch. It is arguably the most influential among movement builders despite it being the least known of the three among the general public.

The chronograph module employs a column wheel and a vertical clutch (located next to the chronograph seconds wheel)

The vertical clutch in the 9SC5 comprising of two co- axial intermediate wheels is located slightly off the central axis of the movement. One intermediate wheel is constantly driven by a central extension wheel from the fourth wheel. When the chronograph is activated, two coupling levers releases the clutch, which drives the chronograph seconds wheel, enabling it to rotate together with the extension wheel. Among the other hallmark approaches is the use of a single, integrated three-point reset hammer that zeros all three counters — the chronograph seconds, minutes and hours — at once.

In contrast to the 80-hour power reserve of the 9SA5, the 9SC5 has a power reserve of 72 hours with the chronograph disengaged. This difference arises from the need for an auxiliary train to transfer the central seconds output from the base movement to the running seconds counter positioned at three o’clock. With that said, 72 hours puts it on par with some of the top automatic chronographs on the market while making it the lengthiest among high frequency chronographs. Undoubtedly, this can be attributed to the incredibly efficient Dual Impulse escapement as well as the use of double barrels.

Cased up, the Tentagraph measures 43.2mm wide and 15.3mm high due to the nature of its construction. While it is definitely a large, eye-catching timepiece, it wears comfortably as the case and bracelet are made from the brand’s proprietary high intensity titanium, which is said to be 30 percent lighter and more scratch resistant than stainless steel. The case design incorporates multiple intersecting planes, alternating between satin-brushing and the renowned Zaratsu polish. The tachymeter bezel, on the other hand, is made of ceramic, making it scratch resistant.

The titanium case has multiple facets, alternating between satin-brushing and the renowned Zaratsu polish

The impressive dimensions are further enhanced by the striking dial architecture. It features wide, grooved and faceted indexes, offering outstanding legibility, along with dramatic dauphine hands, with a pronounced tapering towards the tips. Both are filled with Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite, a phosphorescent compound that boasts a brighter and longer lasting glow compared to Super- LumiNova, the standard luminous paint used on most watch dials. The subdials for the counters are deeply recessed and are actually separate inserts, further adding depth to the dial, while their respective hands feature a polished bevel on their hubs. The beautiful dial texture was inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, which is visible from the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, while the rich shade of blue is inspired by the night sky.

The utterly luxurious, elaborately crafted dial with inlaid sub-dials, faceted and grooved indexes, and a distinctive handset

Ultimately, the Tentagraph is a continuum of what Grand Seiko does best, which is to deliver watches that are nuanced and supremely beautiful on the outside while maintaining unquestionable precision and reliability on the inside. Only in this case it boasts the brand’s crowning achievement — the Dual Impulse escapement — which when viewed within the field of chronographs, makes it the only high frequency chronograph with an exotic escapement and also the only chronograph with both a high frequency and long power reserve. As a first outing, it’s pretty neat.

The superb base caliber with four beautifully shaped bridges visible through the sapphire case back

Tech Specs

Grand Seiko Tentagraph Ref. SLGC001

Movement: Self-winding caliber 9SC5; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case: 43.2mm; high intensity titanium with black ceramic bezel; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Blue with “Mt. Iwate” pattern; applied faceted and ridged indexes with LumiBrite coating
Strap: High-intensity titanium bracelet
Price: SGD 19,000

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post The 25 year journey to Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Les Ambassadeurs on setting up shop in the world’s richest country

Cheryl Chia — Thu, 25 Jan 2024 01:00:40 +0000

Les Ambassadeurs on setting up shop in the world’s richest country

Since establishing a presence in Luxembourg in 2019, Swiss watch retailer Les Ambassadeurs has been on a turbocharged expansion spree, thanks to its commitment to staying ahead of the curve in the ever-evolving world of high-end retail.

Feature

By Cheryl Chia

Jan 25, 2024

Since it was established on Geneva’s Rue du Rhône in 1964, Les Ambassadeurs has embarked on an incredibly measured path to establish itself as one of the top watch and jewelry retailers in Switzerland. As with the very essence of luxury, the brand’s expansion in Switzerland has been characterized by prudent and deliberate strides, reflecting a steadfast commitment to maintaining its exclusivity and high standards.

At present, the company has established its presence in three key Swiss cities, namely Zurich, Geneva and Lucerne.

Les Ambassadeurs made its Luxembourg debut in 2019

In 2019, a few weeks before the world would face a turning point with the onset of the pandemic, Les Ambassadeurs expanded beyond its traditional market for the first time and established a presence in Luxembourg. A small European country known for its high standard of living and strong financial sector, Luxembourg’s watch market is poised for robust growth, buoyed by its affluent population, international residents and a steady stream of high-net-worth individuals.

Moreover, Luxembourg’s close proximity to major European fashion hubs, coupled with its cosmopolitan character, fosters a diverse and dynamic luxury market, which has further cultivated its healthy appetite for luxury watches. Consequently, the country emerges as a logical progression for leading retailers and brands seeking to explore watch markets close to home that remain ripe for development.

Les Ambassadeurs boutique in Cloche d'Or, Luxembourg

Les Ambassadeurs is the first major watch retailer to set up a multi-brand boutique in Luxembourg. Following its first store in the Cloche d’Or district within the capital, it swiftly progressed to establish a standalone boutique dedicated to Omega — the first mono-brand Omega boutique in Benelux (a politico-economic union comprising Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg) — in April 2021, and a Messika boutique in November 2021.

This was followed by the launch of a second multi-brand store Les Ambassadeurs Luxembourg in the heart of Grand Rue, the country’s most famous shopping thoroughfare.

Inside the Les Ambassadeurs boutique on Grand Rue, Luxembourg

At the same time, as footfall at physical stores began to dry up overnight during the pandemic years, Les Ambassadeurs was quick to pivot to accommodate new consumer habits that have since proven to outlast the pandemic. Its Luxembourg e-commerce website is optimized to showcase its unparalleled range of watches with a sophisticated finder, which enables consumers to explore and discover the brands’ offerings seamlessly.

Users can also easily initiate a conversation with a dedicated sales assistant via the WhatsApp messaging platform, receiving real-time support and personalized recommendations throughout the purchasing process. The transition towards customer-centricity, shifting the focus from product-centered approaches to resolving customer needs across all channels, turns the traditional retail framework on its head, with the aim to not only survive, but also to stay resilient and flourish, regardless of economic conditions.

Leading the charge

Benoît Lecigne’s pivotal leadership as Les Ambassadeurs Luxembourg’s general manager since 2019 has played a key role in driving the retailer’s rapid-fire growth in the Grand Duchy. His vision and expertise, honed during his tenure at various luxury watch brands, notably Hublot, have been instrumental in the retailer’s first international expansion, facilitating partnerships with over 40 brands and the development of a comprehensive e-commerce channel.

Recognizing the paradigm shifts in the retail market in such a progressively networked era where alternatives are seconds away on a web search, and where brands are tightening their grip on distribution, engaging and providing greater value to customers have become a strategic imperative. Lecigne spearheaded the customer-centric strategy focused on ensuring a cohesive purchasing journey, thereby continuously expanding the retailer’s market footprint.

Lecigne, alongside his former colleague from Hublot, Coralie Teboul, who now serves as the marketing and retail director of Les Ambassadeurs Luxembourg, make for an agile and astute team, with Lecigne leading the brand’s external expansion and Coralie overseeing internal operations.

Presently, the retailer’s primary customer base consists of local residents, with a notable portion of the clientele hailing from France, Belgium and Germany. The team notes that one in two clients is a returning customer, showcasing the company’s strong focus on fostering lasting relationships with its valued patrons.

Les Ambassadeurs co-hosted an event for Repossi guests and clients

In contrast to pure-play watch specialist retailers, the strength of Les Ambassadeurs’ offerings depends on the co-existence of luxury watch and jewelry brands. Offering the full mix in both online and physical stores enables a wider audience to be captured and also cater to customers seeking a one-stop destination for both horological and jewelry needs, saving precious time.

Another priority is the development of distinctive retail destinations. Teboul spearheaded the introduction of “retail theaters,” both online and in stores.

These “theaters” are regularly updated with new narratives and themes every two months, serving as an innovative approach to elevate and enrich the overall customer journey. By infusing a dynamic and ever-evolving storyline into the retail experience, this strategy aims to captivate customers, foster engagement, and create a lasting impression, ultimately enhancing the retailer’s connection with its clientele.

At the end of the day, the proof of the retailer’s excellence is in the pudding. The store is widely recognized as the ultimate destination in Luxembourg for exquisite timepieces and exceptional jewelry, all complemented by impeccable service.

Emphasizing the retailer’s passion and dedication to offering expert guidance and advice, returning customers often highlight the retailer’s willingness to go the extra mile, which is further enhanced by the convenience of complimentary parking throughout the entire purchasing experience. In being able to parallel radical shifts in market and consumer behaviors, Les Ambassadeurs Luxembourg stands as a testament to the enduring allure of luxury retail experiences that transcend traditional boundaries and expectations.

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Les Ambassadeurs on setting up shop in the world’s richest country appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Ethos is the powerhouse fueling India’s growth in the watch market

Cheryl Chia — Sat, 20 Jan 2024 06:06:16 +0000

Ethos is the powerhouse fueling India’s growth in the watch market

Watch retailer Ethos paves the way as India emerges as the next frontier for watch market growth.

Feature

By Cheryl Chia

Jan 20, 2024

In the world of watch collecting, talk of India’s increasing sophistication echoes loud. It’s not just the burgeoning interest in watches or their progressively deepening pockets that garners attention, but the profound depth of appreciation.

A clear sign of maturity is their relish for independent watchmaking. It signifies that Indian collectors, increasingly, are pursuing watches not just as symbols of professional achievement or pieces of investment, but also as fine works of art.

At the forefront of this transformative tide reigns the immensely influential retailer, Ethos, which has virtually crafted and molded the luxury watch industry from scratch in the world’s most populous country.

Before 1997, India had enforced a prolonged ban on watch imports to protect the domestic watch industry. As a result, those seeking foreign watches had to purchase them abroad or even engage with smugglers.

Ethos Founder and Chairman, Yashovardhan Saboo

Ethos was founded in 2003 by Chandigarh-based entrepreneur Yashovardhan Saboo, following the Indian government’s decision to permit the import of high value watches on a large scale. Ethos established itself as a key player in this newly opened market, with brands willingly accommodating the high import tariffs by exporting to India at reduced prices, a move aimed at curbing the well-entrenched illegal practice of smuggling in the country by ensuring their watches are priced on par with the global market.

In 2022, Ethos became the first luxury watch retailer in India to be publicly listed.

Ethos’ strategic expansion

Today, Ethos has the largest portfolio of brands in India, with over 60 watch brands spanning Seiko to Urwerk, of which over 45 are exclusively available at Ethos. Operating in more than 60 stores encompassing both multi- and mono-brand boutiques spread across 23 cities in India, the retailer has played a pivotal role in cultivating a watch culture, as well as shaping the tastes and preferences of the public in an impressive and undeniable way.

The retailer strategically enters even smaller yet crucial Indian cities like Raipur and Siliguri, with the aim of tapping into emerging market potential and growing consumer interest in luxury items in these vital urban centers. But its job is not done. Ethos is set to unveil an additional 30 to 35 stores across new and existing cities as part of its rapid-fire, but thoughtful, expansion stride in the coming years.

The Ethos Summit Store in The Chanakya Mall in New Delhi, India

This expansion spree is well-founded and propelled by several factors. To begin with, there’s a rapid ascent in wealth and income levels among the upper echelons of Indian society.

This shift in the economic landscape has created a burgeoning market for luxury goods, including watches, encouraging Ethos to cater to the growing demands of this prosperous clientele.

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A post shared by Ethos Watch Boutiques (@ethoswatches)

Secondly, there is a noticeable trend among consumers who now recognize the benefits of purchasing watches within India. This change in perception is primarily due to the comparable pricing and extensive variety of watches available, aligning the Indian market more closely with the offerings of other global cities.

Furthermore, the added advantage of local after-sales services has become a significant factor influencing consumer choices. In 2019, Ethos opened its state-of-the-art service center in Saket, New Delhi, which boasts a team of engineers who possess the capability to service all brands in its diverse portfolio on-site.

Saboo points out, “We engage professionally qualified watchmakers with experience and they are further trained by our partner brands. As for spare watch components, we procure them from the brand that we have been authorised to service.”

Enhanced shopping experience

In response to the evolving consumer habits that were only accelerated by the pandemic, Ethos has continuously and strategically strengthened its digital presence. This proactive approach allows the company to provide customers with an immersive and simply outstanding online experience.

Ethos’ website stands out for its exceptional comprehensiveness, sophistication, and user-friendly interface. Apart from displaying its entire catalog of watches, the website offers an advanced watch finder, enabling users to effortlessly explore the extensive range of choices available.

This feature facilitates a seamless and tailored shopping experience, catering to the diverse preferences of customers.

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Ganges India, an exclusive model for Ethos

In addition, Ethos also recognizes the importance of exposition and education. The website hosts an extensive watch journal, The Watch Guide, which serves as a valuable resource for watch enthusiasts, encompassing a variety of content, including news, reviews, interviews, and a watch glossary.

In fact, a swift perusal of its website hints at one undeniable truth: it is possibly the best multi-brand retailer website in the industry.

The Second Movement boutique in New Delhi, India

At the same time, as the pre-owned market came of age during the pandemic, Ethos swiftly embraced it with a new venture, Second Movement. The standalone brand consists of a high -functioning online marketplace that offers a secure channel for the selling, buying, and trading of pre-owned watches.

It is supported by a brick-and-mortar Second Movement boutique located in New Delhi, which is home to the largest range of pre-owned watches in India.

Today, Ethos continues to nurture a vibrant watch community through frequent event hosting, fostering a culture that deeply appreciates the art of watchmaking. It also facilitates the development of exclusive limited- edition watches, exclusively available at Ethos, for the Indian market, demonstrating its role in building a sense of connection and appreciation between the brand and the collector, thereby enriching the overall watch-collecting experience in India.

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), often referred to as the Oscars of the watch world, stands as one of the most prestigious events in the watch industry. In the 2022 edition, Ethos founder and chairman, Yashovardhan Saboo, was a part of the GPHG jury, making him the first Indian to join this esteemed panel.

Ethos Founder and Chairman, Yashovardhan Saboo (middle) with the 2022 GPHG Jury
Ethos CEO, Pranav Saboo

Concurrently, his son, Pranav, who is CEO of Ethos, holds a membership in the academy. Ethos also achieved a significant milestone by hosting the GPHG travelling exhibition in New Delhi for the first time in 2014 and again in 2022, showcasing the epitome of watchmaking excellence.

At the end of it all, it is impossible not to come away with the conclusion that, unlike the average retailer, Ethos possesses both the guts and smarts — an unstoppable drive coupled with an astute, completist approach — that has steered not just the company, but also India to new heights in the horological world.

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From the Shop

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Ethos is the powerhouse fueling India’s growth in the watch market appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Cheryl Chia, Author at Revolution Watch

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