Kari Voutilainen Archives - Revolution Watch

Grail Watch 9.1 Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

Wei Koh — Wed, 31 Jan 2024 11:00:45 +0000

Grail Watch 9.1 Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

Our latest collaboration with Moritz Grossmann transforms German silver into a work of exquisite timekeeping art.

News

Jan 31, 2024

Here are the broad strokes on our latest collaboration with Moritz Grossmann. It is a limited edition of 20 steel Benu 37mm watches with a ravishing untreated German silver guilloché à main Kari Voutilainen dial, combined with an untreated German silver caliber 102.1 decorated with a frosted finish and full hand engraved details. Capitalizing on German silver’s unique ability to transform in color over time, each of these watches will develop a captivating patina and eventually become a pièce unique.

German silver takes on a warm gold hue as it develops patina, reflecting the time spent with its wearer

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Back in August 2023, we launched our six-piece limited edition Moritz Grossmann watch named “Silver Bullet,” a 37mm in diameter Benu timepiece, featuring the ravishing, hand finished three-fifth plate caliber 102.1, but with a sterling silver guilloché à main Kari Voutilainen dial made using a vintage engine-turning machine, paired with an 18K white gold case and a kudu leather strap in gorgeous anemone. However, the fact was that we had actually planned for this edition named “German Silver” to be launched at the same time.

Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 'Silver Bullet'

The idea behind the Benu 37 “German Silver” was to make a watch using untreated maillechort or German silver, as it is known in English, which has been the material of choice for the most famous Saxon watchmaking houses in Glashütte. This durable copper alloy made with nickel and zinc was our choice for both the movement and the dial. However, production delays meant that the 20 dials intended for this project were almost a year late because of overwhelming demand for Voutilainen’s guilloché à main masterpieces.

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver”

Further distinguishing the Benu 37 “German Silver” from its predecessor, the “Silver Bullet,” are the cases which are made from steel, and the movements which have a frosted finish featuring handmade bevels and hand engraved details. The result are watches that begin their life all appearing visually uniform, but because of German silver’s unique capacity to patina over time, each watch will eventually become a pièce unique as the dials and movements react with the wearer and the environment to take on the signature light honey color of aged maillechort. We love the idea that the watch truly becomes symbiotic with your life journey and its visual appearance will chronicle the time you’ve spent with it on your wrist. An added bonus, thanks to the choice of steel as the case material, is that this watch is more accessibly priced than its predecessor at USD 35,300.

The exquisitely finished guilloché dial looks right at home in 37mm stainless steel

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Now here comes the hard part — while we were able to make 20 examples of the watch, 11 of these have already been spoken for by individuals who were not able to acquire the “Silver Bullet.” This leaves nine watches available for purchase. Nine watches is not a lot, particularly when the watch is a stunning work in nuance. But before getting into the details of the Benu 37 “German Silver,” I want to take this opportunity to explain why I love Moritz Grossmann so much.

Each time I hold a Moritz Grossmann watch in my hand, I am struck by the pure straightforward beauty of the movement — the perfect expression of the brand’s eponymous spiritual father who championed the creation of “simple but mechanically perfect watches.”

I am always charmed by the brand’s quirky yet mechanically efficient innovations such as the Hamatic automatic winding mechanisms. I am consistently romanced by the movements’ innately Saxon hallmarks, from the flame-treated purple screws to the gold chatons, to the Glashütte stripes on the German silver two-third plate, the sumptuously engraved balance and escape bridges and the choice of white sapphires over traditional rubies. My sense of aesthetics is always piqued by the charm of its “tremblage” dials, an ancient hand engraving technique to decorate the German silver dial using different tools.

Moritz Grossmann CEO Christine Hutter

But perhaps most of all, I find myself moved by the story of immense perseverance and unrelenting resilience that is expressed by the extraordinary woman behind the brand. To me, Moritz Grossmann’s CEO, Christine Hutter, is one of the most innovative, disruptive and courageous visionaries in modern horology, who has ably resurrected — or one could argue, created — a brand that is poised to absolutely skyrocket in awareness and appreciation.

Born in Eichstätt, Germany, Hutter trained as a watchmaker, then found her way into sales, marketing and distribution, which would all help her become the well-rounded leader she is today. In 1996, she made her way to the town of Glashütte, which is located in the former German Democratic Republic (GDR).

The transformation there, in what was once a somnambulant tiny village about 40 minutes’ drive from Dresden, was incredible. On December 7, 1990, following the reunification of Germany, the genius watch entrepreneur Günter Blümlein and Walter Lange accomplished the seemingly impossible. They resurrected the once perished A. Lange & Söhne.

Suddenly, Glashütte was awash in energy. Mechanical watches were manufactured in Glashütte until the 1980s, even during GDR times, when the Saxon watch manufacturers were nationalized. Thus, the culture of mechanical watchmaking was kept alive and well in this region.

Lange launched the Lange 1 in 1994 as the ref. 101.021. (Image: thekeystone.com)

In 1994, Lange presented its first watches and the statement was clear: Glashütte intended to contend with the greatest entrenched heavyweights of Swiss watchmaking. Hutter, like any young German watchmaker, was deeply moved by the events she saw unfolding. By 1996, she had decamped to Glashütte, her mind brimming with positive ambition. She said, “To be in Glashütte at this time was amazing. We had the feeling that anything was possible. And we took immense pride in bringing our vision of German high watchmaking to the rest of the world. The prevailing feeling was, we had to do our best, to tell the world who we are, and to express the real value of Saxon horology, which we knew to be so beautiful.”

The Genesis of Moritz Grossmann

During her time in Glashütte, Hutter often came across the name Moritz Grossmann. When she went to museums, she searched historical archives and spoke to older watchmakers, and soon she began to understand one clear message: Grossmann was one of the most influential watchmakers in Glashütte’s history. Why? Because in 1878, he founded the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte. This building is still standing today, but it has been converted to the German Watch Museum.

Moritz Grossmann (Image: Foundation “German Watch Museum Glashütte – Nicolas G. Hayek")

In the 19th century, Grossmann helped to define the core values of German watchmaking as well as formalize the signature aesthetic and functional codes of Saxon horology — the flame bluing of screws, the use of chatons to hold rubies in place, the two-third plate, the micrometer screw, the engraving of balance cocks. All of these values and codes coalesced during his time.

Uhrenmuseum © Deutsches Uhrenmuseum Glashütte, Fotograf Holm Helis

Hutter’s passion and interest thus stoked, she decided to become the world’s greatest living expert on Grossmann. Then, she came across something rather remarkable. The name Moritz Grossmann had become dormant. Without a moment’s hesitation, she decided to purchase it, with a vision to create a brand inspired by all his immense contributions to German watchmaking, expressed through fun, modern and mechanically perfect timepieces.

She laughs when she thinks back on the early days, “I suppose it was similar to many young entrepreneurs with limited capital. We started with a PO Box. I worked from my kitchen table. Then we rented a store. Then an office. And finally, we hired our first watchmaker to help me create our first movement and set up our atelier.”

The first Moritz Grossmann Benu 41mm in 18K rose gold

Beyond this, what Hutter really had to do was envision a brand. She started with the names of Egyptian deities. But when it came to naming her first watch, the decision was clear. She explains, “I started with Benu (Bennu) because this is the Egyptian deity linked with the Sun, creation, and most importantly, rebirth — a bird that rises from the ashes like a Phoenix. As I was embarking on the rebirth of the most famous name in German watchmaking, I thought it was perfect. But there was at the same time a lot of pressure, because the watch had to be good.”

The incredible beauty of the Moritz Grossman caliber 100

The Benu model was first launched in 2010, and collectors with a discerning eye were immediately struck by the beauty of the movements, the stunning snailing on the ratchet wheels, the majesty of the decoration on the plate and bridge, and the stunning detail of the hand engraved escape wheel cock.

Hutter had founded Grossmann Uhren GmbH on November 11, 2008, but by 2010, she was embarking on another incredibly daring and brilliant journey, and that was to create one of the most complete in-house manufactures in modern watchmaking.

Moritz Grossmann manufacture

Says Hutter, “That year was an incredible one, because we presented the Benu in a 100-piece limited edition which quickly sold out. But we also laid the first stone in the creation of our manufacture.”

Set on a hill overlooking the town of Glashütte with a view of Lange below it, the creation of the Moritz Grossmann headquarters and manufacture took immense courage. “From the beginning, I wanted to create the infrastructure that would allow us to build movements to a capacity that would make us a significant presence in modern watchmaking, and at a quality that would be the best in the world.”

Today, many of Grossmann’s watches are sold out and the factory is at full capacity with an annual production of less than 400 watches. Hutter admits with a chuckle, “Now it is really a bit of struggle to meet demand. We are effectively sold out for two years. But we are trying to do our best. One thing we will definitely not do is compromise on our quality. This is everything to us.”

Moritz Grossmann: The Power of Functional Innovation

It is important to point out now that while Grossmann is reaching a truly impressive level of popularity (though it is my opinion that we are still in the very early stages of the brand’s ascent), both the brand and Hutter have gone through a great deal of challenges and upheavals since it was founded 15 years ago.

Moritz Grossmann Hamatic

Over the last decade and a half, under Hutter’s leadership, Grossmann has expressed a powerful sense of functional innovation. Amongst her accomplishments is the previously mentioned phenomenal automatic winding watch named the Hamatic, which uses a pendulum or hammer-type winding mass. This type of mass dates back to Abraham-Louis Breguet who implemented this type of system in 1780 and dubbed it the “Perpétuelle.” What is wonderful about this system is that it allows you an unencumbered view of how the motion of the mass is transferred into winding energy by the movement’s two click levers.

Moritz Grossmann’s charming Hamatic allows for an open view of the watch’s kinetic beauty

Moritz Grossmann’s charming Hamatic allows for an open view of the watch’s kinetic beauty. Says Jack Forster, global editorial director for The 1916 Company (formerly known as WatchBox), “The question here is not whether this is more or less efficient than a rotor. What it shows is that Moritz Grossmann is deeply rooted in the history of mechanical watchmaking and is able to take a different pathway to automatic winding that is uniquely charming.”

Moritz Grossmann Tourbillon Skylife in white gold

Moritz Grossmann and Hutter also created a stop seconds tourbillon that provides one of the most esoterically innovative solutions to arresting the balance wheel that I’ve ever heard of. She explains, “In most stop seconds tourbillons, a lever comes and stops the balance. But the pillars of the tourbillon can block the lever. Our solution was to create a miniature brush. When it contacts a pillar, it splits apart and still contacts the balance to stop it. This brush is made from human hair and can be customized with hair from your loved one or yourself.”

Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Steel with Grand Feu Enamel Dial

I started to become truly intrigued by Grossmann in 2018, when Hutter launched the Benu 37, a 37mm in diameter watch that I found to be truly marvelous. The size was perfect. The heat-treated purple hands were intriguing. And, in particular, the movement — the three-fifth plate, hand decorated German silver masterpiece named the MG 102.1 — was magnificent. Our first collaboration together was based on the Benu 37 but with a dial inspired by a stunning pocket watch from the brand’s past.

The Moritz Grossmann Autum “Hommage” paired with an original 1872 Moritz Grossmann pocket watch that was auctioned by Christie’s was the spark for our first collaboration

In 2018, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand, Christine Hutter curated an amazing collection of vintage Moritz Grossmann watches that she paired with timepieces from its modern-day collection to be auctioned off by Christie’s. Amongst the auction lots was a very interesting and unique 37mm by 9.2mm slim Atum Hommage wristwatch that was paired with a pocket watch with movement number 6126 made by Moritz Grossmann in 1872.

Inspired by a stunning 19th century pocket watch, Revolution’s first collaboration with Moritz Grossmann was the sold-out Benu 37 Grand Feu Enamel Dial

To me, this wristwatch featured one of the most stunning dials ever. The elegance of the ultra slim Roman numerals surrounded by the delicately printed chemin-de-fer minute indicator, and contrasted by the four diamond-shaped markers at the cardinal points, was wonderful. It was the most perfect example of Zen reductionist tranquility we’d seen in recent years. But this hand fired enamel dial watch was only created in this one unique execution. Or so I thought, until I had the opportunity to speak to Christine Hutter on her visit to Singapore in 2019.

Remarking on the majesty of this watch, she asked if we might consider collaborating on a version of the timepiece together. Of course, we were humbled and delighted to acquiesce. She pointed out that the Benu Heritage 37mm case, which was launched in April 2018, was exactly the same shape and dimension and could offer us the perfect platform to start.

We soon returned to her very original idea when she founded Moritz Grossmann, which was to forge a link between Saxon watchmaking’s past and future. From the past, we selected a grand feu enamel dial similar to the pièce unique auctioned by Christie’s. But instead of white, we decided on an ivory-colored dial with black Roman indexes, contrasted by a soft seductive deep purple chemin de fer, which perfectly complemented the signature flamed purple color on her lovely spade shaped hands.

On the wrist, the Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Steel with Grand Feu Enamel Dial for Revolution & The Rake

To perfectly express the idea of ultimate horological tranquility, we decided to omit the seconds hand. This would, after all, be the watch of a flaneur or a boulevardier, an individual for whom time is a luxury, and it would simply not do to allow the banal encroachment of a small seconds indicator. Thus was born, in 2020, the Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Steel with Grand Feu Enamel Dial for Revolution and The Rake.

Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver”

Moritz Grossmann’s two collaborations with Grail Watch, namely the Benu 37 “Silver Bullet” and, the watch that we are launching now, the Benu 37 “German Silver,” came about during my trip to Grossmann’s manufacture in Glashütte. There, inside a wonderfully sunlit room, I noticed a few pièce unique watches made for clients featuring dials created by Kari Voutilainen and his dial factory, Comblémine.

Guilloché à main, a special material that transforms in color over time

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I’ve always loved guilloché à main or, as the English call it, engine-turned dials. It is my opinion that the most ravishing in the world are made by Kari at his factory where he has one of the greatest collections of vintage rose engine machines. When asked what our next Benu 37 could look like, I proposed something that was as clean and Zen reductionist as the Grand Feu Enamel Dial watch, but using different dial materials. For the Benu 37 “Silver Bullet,” we would create a dial from a massive piece of sterling silver. But for the second watch, I proposed a very special material that transforms in color over time — German silver. The idea reminded me of a conversation I once had with Aurel Bacs from Phillips Watches who told me, “The beauty of vintage watches is that they all started as a uniform product, but time and the beautiful effect of age results in each timepiece becoming totally unique.”

German silver takes on a warm gold hue as it develops patina, reflecting the time spent with its wearer

I loved the idea of time transforming what was created as part of a series into an entity that is utterly singular. But I thought to myself, wouldn’t it be even better if the customer could be the person that brings about this aging process himself or herself? It was when I was looking at some older examples of Moritz Grossmann’s watches and marveling at the gorgeous golden patina that German silver adopts with time that the moment of inspiration hit.

The gorgeous manual winding caliber 102.1

To me, watches are the most wonderful objects; they require no power to run and serve you flawlessly with the energy you give by winding or wearing them. Because of this unique nature, I feel that watches enter into a symbiotic and mutually beneficent relationship with their wearer that no other object is able to achieve. It is a remarkably intimate and beautiful relationship.

Wrist elegance captured in time

Then I thought, well, how great it would be if each passing moment, day, month and year transforms the watch on your wrist into one that only you will have. And so our Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 “German Silver” is just that — a watch that is the chronicle of your life.

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver” is available to the public for purchase here on 31 January 2024, 7pm SGT / 12pm CET / 6am EST. Available in a limited edition of twenty pieces, it is priced at USD 35,300 each. For enquiries, email shop@grailwatch.com.

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver”

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Tech Specs

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver”

Movement: Manual winding caliber 102.1; 48-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Dial: Guilloché à main on German silver; applied hour markers and Breguet numerals
Case: 37mm; Stainless Steel
Strap: Kudu leather strap, with an additional hand-stitched Taupe Epsom leather strap custom made with purple stitches, by Delugs
Price: USD 35,300
Availability: Limited edition of 20 pieces

Videos

By Revolution

Up Close With Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

Jan 31, 2024

Videos

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Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ | Revo Talks

Aug 3, 2023

Videos

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Up Close with Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’

Aug 2, 2023

Feature

By Cheryl Chia

Moritz Grossmann: A German Jewel

Jun 14, 2023 11 minutes

Moritz Grossmann

By Revolution

Introducing the Moritz Grossmann Universalzeit

Feb 25, 2022

FROM THE SHOP

Moritz Grossmann

Limited Edition

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

$35,300.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding caliber 102.1; 48-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case	37mm; Stainless Steel
Dial	Guilloché à main on German silver; applied hour markers and Breguet numerals
Strap	Kudu leather strap, with an additional hand-stitched Taupe Epsom leather strap custom made with purple stitches, by Delugs
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 20 pieces

The post Grail Watch 9.1 Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’ appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Kari Voutilainen

Revolution — Wed, 21 Dec 2022 01:37:11 +0000

At Geneva Watch Days 2022, Wei speaks one-on-one with Kari Voutilainen, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium, and one of the most well-respected pioneers of independent watchmaking.

2022 marks the 20th anniversary since Kari founded his eponymous brand; a journey marked by both tragedy and triumph. Inspired by mentors during his time at Parmigiani Fleurier and the passing of his brother, his name would eventually become synonymous with both technical brilliance and refined finishing at the highest levels. He may be an eight-time GPHG winner but it is his willingness to give back, through being a watchmaking instructor and a supplier of dials to other independent brands, that represents an impact on watchmaking which cannot be understated.

The post Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Kari Voutilainen appeared first on Revolution Watch.

First Look: Kari Voutilainen Aki-No-Kure, Pièce Unique (Video)

Sumit Nag — Wed, 29 Mar 2017 01:00:11 +0000

The post First Look: Kari Voutilainen Aki-No-Kure, Pièce Unique (Video) appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Kari Voutilainen’s New Green GMT

Revolution — Tue, 10 Mar 2015 17:32:40 +0000

Blame my name, but I have always had a thing for watches with green. Often not the most obvious choice for a watch, but almost always it leads to an interesting combination, or at least a conversation piece. With the new Kari Voutilainen GMT debuting in Baselworld, green is indeed the color of the dial, crafted in perfect guilloche, and combined with red accents. There is reason to believe that these unusual color combinations are going to be a trademark of Voutilainen. Since he acquired a dial manufacture last year, his capabilities in this field have expanded and leave it up to Voutilainen to make the most out of that!

Interesting also is the fact that Voutilainen chose red for the accents on the watch. An unusual combination of colors, that is highly legible, and makes me actually think of a 1950’s British race car, battling the fierce conditions of Le Mans or perhaps Spa-Francorchamps, with roaring engines, rain forced off the dark green bodywork by the air forced over the car, while red hands frantically jump over the dials of the dashboard. Vivid imagination? Perhaps, but that is the business Voutilainen is in; building dream machines!

Based on the Vingt-8 Chronometer calibre, the new watch features a GMT function on the sub dial at 6 o’clock. The inventive thing here is that this second time zone is set by the crown in hour intervals, not disturbing the accuracy of the local time display. With a movement crafted from German Silver, decorated with Côtes de Genève and hand chamfered, it also features the large balance wheel with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve.

The case has a timeless size of 39mm in diameter and is available in platinum and rose gold. Only 12 will be made, and that brings me back to the dial again. Here no “Swiss Made” to be seen, but “Hand Made”, proudly printed in small script at the bottom of the dial. Perhaps even more prestigious than Swiss Made, especially because in combination with the name Voutilainen you know that everything is crafted in the Swiss village of Môtiers.

Martin Green
Eclectic taste in Haute Horlogerie, passion for diamond set watches, loves the classics

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Budget Recommendations from Watchmaking Grandmasters -Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilenen, Laurent Ferrier and Roger Smith

Revolution — Tue, 25 Mar 2014 14:30:44 +0000

Watchmaking Grandmasters Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilenen, Laurent Ferrier and Roger Smith were in Singapore last year for a plenary session arranged by THE HOUR GLASS at the Paragon.

For the avid collectors and enthusiasts who attended the event, it was a chance to meet their idols in person — people, who have, through sheer grit, determination and passion, emerged as the unrivaled stars of the horological world, creating watches that have sent ripples throughout the watch world during their long careers.

The event hosted by THE HOUR GLASS drew well over a hundred people and it was standing room only for most of them.

Comparing the dual balance wheels of the Philippe Dufour “Duality” and the MB&F Legacy Machine No.2.

The Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral that Mr Laurent Ferrier was wearing.

While a full article on this event can be found in the Asia Edition of REVOLUTION (Volume 35), I thought it would be interesting to excerpt one of the more unexpected questions that was asked by an audience member.

The Question:

If you were asked to recommend a watch costing below USD10,000, other than your own, to someone who wants to start a collection, what would it be?

This was certainly an interesting question and one that set many in the audience to speculate loudly on what the answers of the individual masters would be. Let’s face it, most of the watches we like are expensive, and further, considering that the watches made by the four master watch-makers are more likely than not, small in number, and it stands to reason, the only a few lucky people can get to own them. Perk up your ears therefore for a bunch of top picks that they have recommended. Can’t wear a watch made by any of them? Well, with any of these choices, you can tell your friends that the watch you are wearing has received the stamp of approval from a master watchmaker.

Scroll down below for their choices and the reasons why these particular watches or watch brands were chosen.

Philippe Dufour

Philippe Dufour: I would say that you could buy at this price, maybe a bit less, a very good watch in terms of value and quality. It’s not Swiss — sorry — [but] a German brand called NOMOS. I found that this brand makes a very serious product. I like these watches, and for somebody who wants to start, I think this will be a good [choice]: not too expensive and good value for money.

(Editor: Dufour’s choice is hardly surprising given his personal choice of time-piece which is an A. Lange & Sohne Datograph in Pink Gold. It seems then that he is a fan of watches from the Glashütte region in Germany. With his recommendation of NOMOS, and the personal watch he wears that he paid for with his own money. I can hardly fault him, as these 2 brands are personal favourites as well.)

NOMOS Zurich Weltzeit with GMT function and flagship of the NOMOS brand.

Kari Voutilainen

Kari Voutilenen: It’s a tricky question. In this case, perhaps I would buy a Parmigiani to support my village. That is perhaps the best solution, because it will bring wealth to the area where I’m living.

(Editor: Kari’s answer might seem a little disingenuous mainly because Parmigiani is hardly the first thing that comes to mind when you think of a budget watch. Still, the Tonda 1950 is a nice watch to consider if your budget stretches a little outside the USD10,000 imposed by the question.)

Parmigiani Tonda 1950, an example of what Kari Voutilainen would recommend.

Laurent Ferrier with Adi Soon

Laurent Ferrier: If I could only buy one, I would go for a Rolex Daytona. If you really want to start a collection, it’s probably going to have to be with something simple, so the best way is to go to an auction and try to find original 50-year-old pieces that are still in good condition. That’s a very easy way to start.

(Editor: A Rolex on the list! A fine choice, but I think the more interesting part about Ferrier’s answer is looking for vintage watches at auction. An auction catalogue is a good place to start your research into watches as it will expose you to things that you might not have known about, and give you a sense of prices for various watches. What’s more, prices can be reasonable if you bid smart. Armed with the right research, you can pick up a nice piece quite easily.)

Laurent Ferrier is more specific with his choice of Rolex, picking the Daytona shown here.

Roger Smith talking to a member of the audience.

Roger Smith: I don’t know if this would surprise people, but personally, it would have to be a Rolex. They are exceptional watches and what impresses me about Rolex is that they’re not very adventurous, which is good, because they know they have a great movement. The movements that they use are tried and tested. They’ve been around forever — why change the wheel? They have a watch that you can use for dress, sports, and it’s a great all-rounder. Put one on your wrist and you’ll probably die with that watch on your wrist. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but I look at the mechanics of a watch, the case and how all the components are constructed; to me, [the Rolex is] bulletproof, and I don’t think you can get much better than that. They don’t sponsor me, by the way.

(Editor: When I visited Roger at his studio in the Isle of Man, he showed me the 39mm Rolex Explorer that he had been given to him for his 40th birthday by his wife. Roger has always been an admirer of Rolex primarily because of the brand’s philosophy when it comes to making their watches, prioritising durability and reliability above all else. These are traits that you can also find in the watches that he makes, with the Series 2 movements for example featuring a very strong and thick three quarter plate. All the better for a lifetime of worry-free service, just like a Rolex. The Rolex Explorer he owns remains as a faithful everyday watch, that is until the day he finds time to make a Roger Smith watch for himself.)

Roger Smith recommends anything from Rolex, such is this Submariner pictured.

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The post Budget Recommendations from Watchmaking Grandmasters -Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilenen, Laurent Ferrier and Roger Smith appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Kari Voutilainen Archives - Revolution Watch

Grail Watch 9.1 Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

Grail Watch 9.1 Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

The Genesis of Moritz Grossmann

Moritz Grossmann: The Power of Functional Innovation

Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Steel with Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver”

Tech Specs

MORE STORIES ABOUT MORITZ GROSSMANN

FROM THE SHOP

TECH SPECS

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Budget Recommendations from Watchmaking Grandmasters -Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilenen, Laurent Ferrier and Roger Smith