Independent Watchmaking Archives - Revolution Watch

Code41 Unveils a Classical yet Captivating Moonphase

Lee Sheng — Thu, 15 Feb 2024 09:00:44 +0000

Code41 Unveils a Classical yet Captivating Moonphase

With a uniquely designed dial

News

Feb 15, 2024

Swiss microbrand Code41 has made significant strides since its founding in 2016 by Claudio D’Amor, who previously designed watches for Tag Heuer and Montblanc. It has added complications such as the tourbillon to its lineup, and now, the brand has taken yet another step towards classical watchmaking by introducing a new moon phase to its collection with the latest Moon Inception. Available in three colors – black, blue, or gray – the Moon Inception features an original and interesting twist in its dial design that sets it apart from conventional moonphase watches on the market.

An interesting moonphase

Unlike most of Code41’s watches, the Moon Inception features a pared-back dial design, departing from the brand’s quintessential open-worked dial. However, the brand has demonstrated its ability to craft classic solid dials with excellent design. In fact, the new dial is the highlight of the watch as it easily distinguishes itself from conventional moonphase watches on the market.

While the moon phase display is conventionally executed via a rotating disc, its placement and the surrounding elements make it special. Nestled within a circular frame of stars, the moonphase evokes a view of the universe and adds romanticism to the watch, particularly with the photo-realistic moon disc.

Furthermore, the moonphase circular ring is complemented by another smaller ring framing the date, positioned around 2 o’clock. These two rings form a figure-eight shape, leaving two slices of beautifully curved pie shapes imprinted with the brand and model name.

An intriguing detail to note is that the dial is constructed on multiple levels: the hour and minute track occupy the outermost and highest elevation, followed by the moon and date disc, with the lowest level being the dial itself. These distinct levels are made of different materials and finishes, providing clear boundaries while also adding intricate details and visual depth to captivate the eye.

Modern case design

The case design of the Moon Inception follows the language of Code41, which boasts a barrel or tonneau shape silhouette, thanks to the relatively straight lugs extending from the case. Compared to earlier watches from Code41, the case construction of the Moon Inception is arguably more pared back to suit the classical style of the dial.

However, some may argue that the design still leans a bit too much towards modernity or complexity for the overall theme of the dial. Make no mistake, the construction is commendable, but like many of its microbrand competitors, the case design lacks the maturity, finesse, or timelessness of established brands’ designs.

That said, perhaps more noteworthy than the case is the bracelet, which is relatively uncommon, solid, and handsome.

The case has a diameter of 41.5 mm and a thickness of 11.2 mm, which is reasonable and exactly as thick as the Longines Master Collection Moonphase

Workhorse movement

It is now a more common trend for microbrands to disclose where the parts are sourced; for example, Code41 reveals that the case, dial, and packaging are all manufactured in China. However, the movement within the watch is sourced from Switzerland, or more accurately, from the brand Sellita, the SW288. It has a relatively short power reserve of 41 hours, but it is a reliable movement. The movement comes in two configurations: the basic version, regulated to -7/+7 seconds deviation maximum a day, or for just CHF 300 more, it will be regulated to -4/+6 and accompanied by a COSC certification.

Code41 Moon Inception

Movement: C41-MP (Sellita SW288); automatic; 41 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and moon phase
Case: 41.5 mm x 11.2 mm; steel; water resistant to 100 m
Strap: Rubber strap or steel bracele
Availability: Directly from Code41
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 3,345

News

By Lee Sheng

Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover

Feb 14, 2024

Feature

By Celine Yap

GMT Italia are the Italian pioneers of independent watchmaking

Jan 22, 2024

Interviews

By Celine Yap

Chronopassion is the Parisian retailer making watch appreciation cool

Jan 18, 2024

Feature

By Celine Yap

How Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons led the way for luxury horology in the Middle East

Jan 18, 2024

Independent Watchmaking

By Lee Sheng

Introducing the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Oct 26, 2023

FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Code41 Unveils a Classical yet Captivating Moonphase appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover

Lee Sheng — Wed, 14 Feb 2024 09:00:48 +0000

Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover

Lightweight and lightspeed

News

By Lee Sheng

Feb 14, 2024

Now a best-selling model for Urwerk, the UR-100 is a no-frills – by Urwerk’s standards – timepiece that features the brand’s signature wandering satellite disc for hours and minutes. In other words, it serves as the base model, attracting many enthusiasts venturing into avant-garde time displays from independent watchmakers.

As a result, the UR-100 has undergone several iterations to cater to the diverse tastes of collectors, offering a range of materials and dial colors. However, the latest iteration introduces something new to the display. The UR-100V Lightspeed incorporates, for the first time in the lineup, a depiction of the time needed for sunlight to reach each planet in the solar system.

Travel time display

The UR-100V Lightspeed remains true to its UR-100 roots, retaining the model’s sleek case design – now made of carbon – which is slimmer compared to typical Urwerk models, ensuring wearability for a variety of wrist sizes. Additionally, it maintains the distinctive wandering hours and minutes feature, comprised of three satellite discs positioned on a carousel for hours, each taking turns to indicate the minutes on an arc scale. This display, while simpler than the brand’s satellite cube, offers an affordable glimpse into Urwerk’s distinctive independent watchmaking style.

However, the latest Lightspeed eliminates the twin astronomical display present in earlier UR-100 models. This feature indicated the distance traveled by Earth during its rotation on its own axis every 20 minutes (about 555 km) and the distance traveled by Earth as it orbits the Sun every 20 minutes (about 35,700 km). This information was conveyed through the movement of the pointer on the wandering hour disc, which rotates around the entire dial. Conveniently, the cutout is sized so that the pointer takes exactly 20 minutes to pass through it.

However, although the twin distance display is being phased out, Urwerk has introduced new astronomical information on the dial. Featured on the Lightspeed model is the time required for light to travel from the sun to each planet in the solar system. This information is determined by calculating the distance between the sun and each planet, taking into account the speed of light, which is approximately 299,792.458 meters per second – the fastest speed achievable in the universe. For instance, it can be determined that, on average, sunlight takes approximately 8.3 minutes to reach Earth.

Since the speed of light is a constant, typically represented by the symbol “c” in physics calculations, the time it takes for sunlight to reach each planet remains consistent, disregarding momentarily the variation in distance between the sun and each planet throughout the orbit cycle. This information is now displayed on the dial, constituting a fixed numerical value rather than a dynamic time display. It neither serves as an indicator nor a complication, suggesting a level of interest that is lower than the initial impression.

Controlled winding rate

Inside the watch is the UR 12.02, which consists of URwerk’s proprietary module and a base movement crafted by Vaucher, departing from earlier movements derived from a Zenith calibre. However, the UR 12.02 maintains the “Windfänger” winding system, featuring a star-shaped wheel at the rotor, which completes six rotations for every rotation of the rotor, thereby controlling the winding speed.

Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed

Movement: UR 12.02; automatic; 48 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 43 x 51.73 x 14.55 mm; carbon and DLC-coated titanium; water resistant to 50 m
Strap: Red rubber strap with folding clasp
Availability: At Urwerk retailers
Limited edition: 50 pieces
Price: CHF 65,000

Feature

By Celine Yap

GMT Italia are the Italian pioneers of independent watchmaking

Jan 22, 2024

Interviews

By Celine Yap

Chronopassion is the Parisian retailer making watch appreciation cool

Jan 18, 2024

Feature

By Celine Yap

How Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons led the way for luxury horology in the Middle East

Jan 18, 2024

Independent Watchmaking

By Lee Sheng

Introducing the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Oct 26, 2023

News

By Sheng Lee

Leonardo DiCaprio Joins $2 Million Investment in ID Genève’s Sustainable Watchmaking

Oct 17, 2023

FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover appeared first on Revolution Watch.

GMT Italia are the Italian pioneers of independent watchmaking

Celine Yap — Mon, 22 Jan 2024 01:00:59 +0000

GMT Italia are the Italian pioneers of independent watchmaking

With an eye for the extraordinary, GMT Great Masters of Time is an iconoclast in Italy’s luxury retail industry — and one that proudly celebrates the talent and ingenuity of independent watchmaking.

Feature

By Celine Yap

Jan 22, 2024

The Italian market holds an especially deep significance to the luxury watchmaking industry as we know it today. As they’re always known for their impeccable sense of style, the sophisticated Italians have always been true tastemakers of luxury, and during the ’70s and ’80s, the very concept of a luxury sports watch in stainless steel was popularized right here in Italy — more specifically in Milan, the capital of style and fashion.

Indeed, the Milanese had been the first to embrace the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a watch that was (at that time) far from well-received in all the other markets. The city also played an instrumental role in reviving one of the most important classical icons of today, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso which had fallen by the wayside during the 1940s.

GMT Italia boutique

And it’s not known to many, but credit for restoring this elegant timepiece to its former glory goes unequivocally to the Milanese retailer Great Masters of Time (GMT) Italia.

Located within the famed Quadrilatero d’Oro, or Golden Quadrangle, where all the top fashion and luxury houses set up shop, GMT Italia brings a unique perspective to luxury watch retail, occupying a special place in the hearts of watch lovers all over the world. Yes, even though it operates just one point-of-sale here in Milan, the company attracts as global a clientele as all its neighbors in this glamorous shopping haven.

Its sleek, modern and understated interiors espouse the quintessence of Milanese aesthetics, which is always contemporary, artful and timeless. This vibrant spirit continues in the many objects of horological art ensconced in its elegant showcases, passionately curated by three generations of the Corvo family to introduce collectors to the unique timepieces made by some of the most talented independent watchmakers today.

A different approach

Combined with an enduring presence in the luxury watch industry — the company traces its roots to the 1950s when Giorgio Corvo opened a watch distribution company representing several luxury brands including Jaeger-LeCoultre — GMT Italia has now become synonymous with modern high-end independent watchmaking. This perfectly underlines the company’s non-traditional, non-conventional approach to luxury watch retail.

Its first boutique opened its doors 16 years ago not in Milan but Porto Cervo in Sardinia, capital of beautiful Costa Smeralda, where well-heeled Italians make their annual summer pilgrimage for the Mediterranean. In 2010, the store moved to Milan, occupying a grand multi-brand concept located in the historic center of the city, and then in 2021, it shifted to its present address of Via della Spiga 25.

GMT Italia x H. Moser & Cie event in Milan

Seeking to introduce the finest selection of avant-garde haute horlogerie to the holidaying crowd, GMT Italia was on the threshold of a bold new future, having relinquished its role as the Italian distributor of major brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and choosing instead to represent young, then-unproven independent watchmakers who are crafting time in new and audacious ways. The burgeoning industry of mechanical luxury horology was far from what it is today, with collectors much less familiar with the works of today’s independent watchmaking greats such as F.P. Journe, MB&F and Urwerk.

So it was a gamble for GMT Italia at that point, but it was one that definitely paid off for the family-owned retailer.

From left: Stefano Cristofori, Michele Corvo, Jacopo Corvo, Mattia Corvo

Today, GMT Italia is run by the second and third generations of the Corvo family. Giorgio’s son, Michele, whose decision it was to move away from major brand distribution and toward independent watch retail, is the present chairman of the company.

He is joined by his sons, Mattia Corvo as well as Jacopo Corvo, who oversee and manage the business from end to end, with the help of Stefano Cristofori in the distribution department. Together, the family represents 15 independent watchmaking brands — F.P. Journe, MB&F, Urwerk, H. Moser & Cie., Ressence, Romain Gauthier, Voutilainen, Haldimann, Czapek, Konstantin Chaykin, Hautlence, Trilobe, Bell & Ross, Nomos Glashütte and Louis Erard — with a small but growing portfolio of jewelry maisons such as Messika, Fred, Qeelin and Redline.

GMT Italia x F.P.Journe event in Milan

In particular, GMT Italia is one of the few retailers in the world that has consistently represented F.P. Journe since day one. Notably, in 2014, the company became the first retailer in Europe to open an Espace Journe within its premises, offering a dedicated space for collectors and enthusiasts to see and explore the complete F.P. Journe collection, from the Classique, LineSport and Élégante collections to special and limited series not normally available at standard retailers.

This is but one of many ways that GMT Italia punches far above its weight, competing head-on with many bigger players in the industry with vast networks of stores and yet are nowhere close to GMT Italia in terms of the excellent relationship it shares with the independent watchmaking greats.

Exclusive creations

Working this closely with its brand partners means that retailer exclusive models are only par for the course here, and GMT Italia has indeed created a number of limited edition watches specially designed for its own community of watch enthusiasts. Most recently in 2022, the company arrived at a major milestone in its partnership with MB&F, celebrating 30 years of collaboration and friendship between MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser and the entire Corvo family.

As a testament to the deep ties between both entities, when Büsser opened the MB&F M.A.D. Gallery in Dubai in 2015, he enlisted the help of Jacopo Corvo to manage the store. When MB&F first started out, Büsser had also chosen to work with the Corvos for the Italian market.

So what could be more fitting a creation to commemorate these 30 amazing years than the M.A.D. 1?

As such, the M.A.D. 1 “GMT Milano” edition was dedicated to clients and friends of GMT Italia who have supported the store since its inception. Extremely sought after, this timepiece is usually only available to MB&F VIPs, with a limited number allocated only by raffle.

MB&F M.A.D. 1 “GMT Milano” edition

With an automatic movement and a tungsten and titanium triple blade rotating mass spinning heartily around the dial, it forefronts the mechanics of the movement and design of the watch, relegating time-telling to the two cylindrical aluminum disks on the side of its 42mm case.

Unlike other editions of this timepiece, which are dressed in colorful livery, this model exudes a chic, understated vibe that is completely Milanese in spirit. Its gold-plated 4N finishes are a key signature of all GMT Italia special editions, beautifully subtle with just a hint of the rosy copper tone.

Accompanied by a classic Milano green strap, this watch was produced in a 30-piece production run to emphasize the long and trusted partnership between MB&F and GMT Great Masters of Time.

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From the Shop

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post GMT Italia are the Italian pioneers of independent watchmaking appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Chronopassion is the Parisian retailer making watch appreciation cool

Celine Yap — Thu, 18 Jan 2024 05:45:04 +0000

Chronopassion is the Parisian retailer making watch appreciation cool

Bringing expertise, experience and a rockstar attitude to horology, Chronopassion is undoubtedly powered by passion.

Interviews

By Celine Yap

Jan 18, 2024

It says a lot about a single-boutique retailer when it is placed on the same pedestal as the giants of the industry. Founded and based in Paris, Chronopassion is one such retailer, known — and long admired — for its small but dynamic presence in the luxury watch scene.

Decked out in a fresh, modern aesthetic, the store located on swanky Rue Saint-Honoré doesn’t scream for attention at all, but anyone who has a keen eye for luxury will immediately be drawn to its intriguing window display where revolving carousel cabinets tote the season’s most desirable contemporary timepieces. Whether you’re looking from outside in or standing on the inside looking out, it’s obvious that Chronopassion is no ordinary luxury watch boutique, with a reputation for always doing things differently than others.

Chronopassion storefront at Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris

It’s been this way since the very beginning and if you’ve met its founder, Laurent Picciotto, you would be able to immediately discern why. His office resembles much more a recording studio for a rock band than the working space of a luxury watch chief executive. The entire space is swathed in posters and paintings of art of all genres, many of which are from the watch industry.

Says Picciotto, “When people come into my office, their eyes are always looking all around because there is so much going on. It took me a long time to accumulate this much stuff, there are a lot of souvenirs, stories… It’s all the memories past and present.”

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Laurent Picciotto (@laurentpicciotto)

Indeed, since its establishment, Chronopassion has been a powerhouse in the retail scene. Running the business for more than 36 years, there is nothing that Picciotto has not already seen, experienced and mastered in luxury watch retail.

He has a big personality and a ton of enthusiasm for horology — to say nothing yet of his phenomenal sense of style, which has undoubtedly led him to cultivate an incredible acumen for watches. And it is this unbridled passion for watches and being in the watch business, surrounded by other like-minded individuals who love watches and who are bringing interesting things to the watchmaking landscape, that distinguishes Picciotto and Chronopassion from your run-of-the-mill retailers capable of little beyond the regurgitation of SKUs and RRPs.

Maximillian Büsser (left) hanging out with Laurent Picciotto

He shares, “This comes from the DNA of Chronopassion. Most retailers want to sell what people ask for.

“Of course, there are exceptions and generally most do support some independents, because they have a lot of institutional brands to lean on. For us, year after year, we work less and less with institutional brands and more through the independents.

Laurent Picciotto and Edouard Meylan (right) of H. Moser & Cie

“It is our philosophy and our mode always to start a new thing if we love it.”

Picciotto and his team of passionate watch enthusiasts are the primary reason why Chronopassion is a luxury watch destination unto itself, where aficionados gather and freely indulge in their love for horology on all levels.

Independent Spirit

Where Chronopassion really stands apart from its peers is in the portfolio of brands available here, which focuses less on the mainstream institutional players and more on the alternative segments. What happens then is that the environment is naturally acclimatized to spotlight fine watchmaking from an artisan’s perspective.

Chronopassion’s core range thus includes a plethora of names from haut de gamme independents to emerging microbrands with a unique point of view to offer. As a matter of fact, the store has always been a hotbed of rising star independents as far back as the late ’80s when brands like Audemars Piguet, Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta were just re-entering the luxury conversation.

Laurent Picciotto with Felix Baumgartner (middle) and Martin Frey (right) of Urwerk

And now with the LVMH Group looking actively to revive the latter two brands in the contemporary context, Chronopassion’s strong reputation as a retailer that actively supports the work of independent watchmakers positions it perfectly to play a pivotal role in the rebirth of these legendary names. Watch director of Louis Vuitton Jean Arnault came by the store on one occasion to discuss the project and asked if Picciotto had any archive materials to share.

Picciotto smiles as he recalls the meeting, “I said no, we don’t have any pictures in the computers, but there are about four or five kilos of paper documents from the past you’re welcome to look at.”

Inside Chronopassion's eclectic interior

Picciotto strongly believes in the importance of speaking from the heart about all kinds of watches, whether or not the brand is retailing in his store. For someone who is constantly consulted on watch purchases and as a passionate observer of the industry for decades, he prides himself on always sharing his true opinion on any subject. He says, “Some retail businesses take a corporate approach to retail sales and this is, in my opinion, sometimes kind of dry. For example, at mono-brand stores, most of the time you are quickly made to feel that only that brand is superior, all others are not.

“To me, this is not clever.”

The MB&F Lab at Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris

His open advice has always enlightened customers to see things from a new perspective, and occasionally that has meant a change in decision — sometimes to a brand he doesn’t carry. But that’s perfectly acceptable for Picciotto because it brings him something else instead that money cannot buy: trust.

“We want that long-term trust with our customers. We want that long-term relationship. To have that, one way is to speak the truth, speak from our heart, and say what we honestly feel,” he continues.

Laurent Picciotto with the MB&F LMX Paris Edition (Image: David Carteron)

And the corollary of that is a strong following of loyal customers who recognize that if a brand is good enough for Laurent Picciotto, it is definitely good on all counts. The Parisian retailer has never been one to wait passively for opportunities.

Rather it is quite the opposite, as Chronopassion has been working very closely with key brand partners in creating exclusive limited edition watches that express its unique philosophy and vibrant identity while also strengthening the partnership and, most importantly, creating added value to its customers.

MB&F LMX Paris Edition

Throughout these 30-plus years, Picciotto has actively co-designed special limited edition timepieces with selected brands, both as a creative exercise and a powerful message of solidarity between partners. After all, Chronopassion and many of today’s greatest independents go way back. It has been a trusted retail partner of MB&F since its earliest years and was, in fact, the first point of-sale in the world that sold the very first Horological Machine No. 1.

That was in 2007 and interest in independents was far less fervent than it is today, which speaks volumes about Chronopassion’s incredible score with MB&F and its unwavering belief in the brand’s timepieces.

Stronger Together

Last year, the two entities jointly opened the first MB&F Lab in Paris, which is located right next to Chronopassion’s Rue Saint-Honoré address, and this year the chemistry continues with the special edition MB&F LMX Paris Edition watch featuring a gorgeous dual time display and breathtaking mechanics hovering over a radiant purple dial. This is a watch that catches the attention of watch enthusiasts and novices alike, while being completely artisanal in character and a rare beast even among the highly exclusive realm of MB&F watches.

Another cherished brand partner that Picciotto has been working very closely with in co-creating special editions is Bulgari, and by now everyone has been talking about the latest Bulgari, Chronopassion and Mo Coppoletta collaboration — the Octo Finissimo Tattoo Fuoco. Completely engulfed in tattoo-inspired flames, this is the third and final piece of a trilogy of watches after Aria (2021) and Acqua (2022), which are all anchored around the natural elements while evoking the beauty of body art.

Chronopassion × Mo Coppoletta × Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tattoo

Picciotto, along with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, product creation executive director of Bulgari, and renowned tattoo artist Mo Coppoletta, imagined these breathtaking motifs as the “skin” of the Octo Finissimo, now interpreted through the warm nuances of sandblasted rose gold. The earlier pieces had been crafted in titanium and enrobed in clouds and stars with the Aria, and crashing waves in the Acqua.

Based on such a compelling origin, coupled with alluring aesthetics, these retail exclusive editions are certainly sought after. But they also demonstrate how Chronopassion, with Picciotto at the helm, wants to play a more active role in deciding what kinds of watches it ultimately gets to sell, rather than be a mere middleman for their partners.

Says Picciotto, “I always say when it comes to creativity, there is no season for that. At some fairs there are plenty of fantastic pieces and at others, much less.” So by capitalizing on his signature rock ’n’ roll attitude to take greater control and pushing ahead to really think creatively on every aspect of the business, Picciotto has well established Chronopassion as one of the leading voices in luxury watch retail today.

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From the Shop

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Chronopassion is the Parisian retailer making watch appreciation cool appeared first on Revolution Watch.

How Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons led the way for luxury horology in the Middle East

Celine Yap — Thu, 18 Jan 2024 03:19:59 +0000

How Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons led the way for luxury horology in the Middle East

Representing the very best in luxury watch retail, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and its flagship event, Dubai Watch Week, has placed the United Arab Emirates front and center as the cultural beating heart of the Swiss watch industry.

Feature

By Celine Yap

Jan 18, 2024

Dubai is often regarded as the de facto luxury capital of the United Arab Emirates, and rightly so, given its overall high standard of living, lavish shopping malls and the fact that it ranks among the safest cities in the Middle East, and indeed the world. So, it is known as the City of Gold for a very good reason, and one of the most prominent names in Emirati luxury that has consistently elevated the UAE, not just within the Gulf but on a global stage, is Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, which is undoubtedly the number one luxury watch retailer in the Middle East today.

With its massive network of multi- and mono-brand stores spread between Dubai and Abu Dhabi, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is the retail juggernaut fueling the region’s curiosity, passion and appetite for the best timepieces the world has to offer. Notably, it is through the vision and tenacity of this homegrown luxury watch retailer that the UAE frequently places among the top 10 largest markets for Swiss timepieces, with total exports in the first half of 2023 worth CHF 620.9M.

Combined with other key countries such as Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Kuwait and Bahrain, the Middle East represents CHF 1.1B in that same period.

Seddiqi Holding HQ

This burgeoning community of watch aficionados stands among the most sophisticated and fanatical in the world, thanks to the leading role Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons play in developing a strong watch culture in its territory — and this comes right from the heart of the company’s founding family. If it were not for the fascination of its founder, Ahmed Qassim Seddiqi, with high-quality Swiss timepieces in the 1940s, the company’s history would have been written very differently indeed.

So essentially, the story of luxury watch retail in the UAE is the origin story of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, a family business run by four generations of the Seddiqi family since 1950.

The first in the UAE

From the first Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons store in the old Bur Dubai Souk, the company has now expanded into a massive conglomerate with over 1,000 employees. Seddiqi Holding was established in 2007 and manages a range of businesses including Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons with more than 80 brand partners represented across over 50 stores throughout the region, aftersales division Swiss Watch Services, and Mizzen, a subsidiary focusing on unique retail concepts for luxury consumer brands such as Aesop, Orlebar Brown and Gentle Monster.

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons was the first in the UAE to represent Rolex in 1952 and Patek Philippe in 1960. Naturally, the watch industry was in a completely different place than where it is today, and consumers as well had not yet been acquainted to luxury watchmaking on an intimate level.

The Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons Boutique in Dubai Mall houses the largest Rolex showroom in the world

However, the ambition of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons was always this: to cultivate a community of passionate watch enthusiasts, to put the UAE firmly on the luxury horology map, and to show how a beautiful watch is also very much an object that can transform time into cherished moments.

Presently, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is directed by co-founder, Abdulmagied Seddiqi, who is the second of four children of Ahmed Qassim Seddiqi, and his brother Abdul Hamied Ahmed Seddiqi who takes on the role of Chairman of the Seddiqi Holding. Members of the family’s third generation have also helped manage the company in various key positions.

Its Chief Commercial Officer, Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, is one of the most prominent individuals in the global luxury retail industry, who is also shaping and developing the market for all brand partners of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons.

Chief Commercial Officer, Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi

Chairman of Seddiqi Holding, Abdul Hamied Seddiqi
Vice President and Chief Financial Officer, Osama Ibrahim Seddiqi

Chief Marketing & Communications Officer, Hind Seddiqi
Chief Human Capital Officer, Hassan Abdulmagied Seddiqi

Performing as Vice Chairman and Chief Financial Officer is Osama Ibrahim Seddiqi, and Hassan Abdulmagied Seddiqi is the company’s Chief Human Capital Officer; not forgetting Chief Marketing and Communications Officer Hind Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, who also holds the key position of Director General of Dubai Watch Week, the biennial anchor event on the luxury watch calendar designed for everyone in the industry — watchmakers, brand principals, watch buyers, watch journalists, even young children — and has positioned itself as the reference event for watch fair organizers all around the world.

Why Dubai Watch Week is the place to be

In its sixth edition now, Dubai Watch Week sets out to unite and grow the global watch community by providing the best platform on which to share knowledge, build connections, and ultimately, to celebrate watchmaking. Attracting tens of thousands of international visitors over its weeklong activation, this event distinguishes itself from other major trade shows by focusing not on sales but on watch culture.

To achieve its goal, the organizers have curated well over 100 different programs and masterclasses, forums and craftsmanship workshops, plus a plethora of music and gastronomical experiences to keep the audience engaged.

A discussion panel at Dubai Watch Week 2023, featuring Danièla Dufour (left), Philippe Dufour (middle), with moderator Wei Koh (right)

At the 2023 edition, guest speakers arrived from all over the world to provide insights from different corners of the industry along with key members of the Seddiqi management team, and VIP speaker His Excellency Omar Sultan Al Olama, the UAE’s Minister of State for Artificial Intelligence, Digital Economy and Remote Work Applications.

Guest speakers included watchmakers and brand owners such as Philippe Dufour, Max Büsser, Jean-Claude Biver, Georges Kern, François-Henry Bennahmias and more, auction house specialists from Christie’s, renowned watch collectors, and Revolution and Grail Watch founder Wei Koh.

Ressence TYPE 1° DX3
Breitling Chronomat GMT Dubai Edition

But of course, it wouldn’t be called Dubai Watch Week without the real stars of the show — the watches. Every two years, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons unveils an exclusive collection of Dubai Watch Week limited-edition timepieces co-created with selected brand partners and designed expressly for the Middle Eastern collector.

In 2023, some of the highlights that have emerged include the Bovet 1822 Récital 15 Meteorite, the Breitling Chronomat GMT 40 in two variations, De Bethune’s DBD Evergreen, the Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic with colorful Arabic script, and the beautiful sand- colored Ressence Type 1 DX3 featuring cloisonné enamel.

Vyntage Horology: A brand founded from passion

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons also took the opportunity to present the latest developments on Vyntage Horology, its very own brand crafted as a tribute to the modern connoisseur. Two new collections lead the charge, named Monograph and Purity, both highly wearable at 40mm and 39mm respectively, and always reflecting exquisite craftsmanship while blending tradition and innovation.

“Vyntage Horology is a labor of love,” says Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi. “It is a venture that is fueled by our family’s dedication and passion toward horological excellence, and through it, we are committed to preserving and enhancing our timeless legacy.

Vyntage Horology Monograph Light Blue
Vyntage Horology Purity Silver

“The launch of Vyntage Horology further expands our offering and underscores our ongoing commitment to elevate the region’s status as a destination for horology and luxury.”

From its origin story through its formative years and right up till the present moment, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons has never lost sight of its goal — to bring luxury and horological authenticity to the hearts of watch connoisseurs. And what began as one man’s passion for fine watchmaking has truly blossomed into a bastion of excellence in luxury watch retail, affirming Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons as the dazzling pride of Dubai and the UAE.

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From the Shop

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post How Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons led the way for luxury horology in the Middle East appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Introducing the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Lee Sheng — Wed, 25 Oct 2023 16:26:02 +0000

Introducing the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Good old Greubel Forsey with an innovative creation.

Independent Watchmaking

By Lee Sheng

Oct 26, 2023

While Swiss independent watchmaker Greubel Forsey has recently shifted its focus towards sportier high-end chronometry wristwatches, it surprised us by unveiling the Tourbillon Cardan.

Deviating from its more recent Covexe case design, the Tourbillon Cardan presents a classic case and dial that immediately conjures memories of the brand’s timepieces from years gone by. The Tourbillon Cardan undeniably embodies the quintessential Greubel Forsey style, not only in its aesthetics but also in its mechanical precision. This is evident in the watchmaker’s latest innovation – the 8th, according to the La Chaux-de-Fonds atelier – in precision timekeeping: the gimbal system, which ensures the tourbillon maintains the optimal angle.

Classic yet innovative

The latest Tourbillon Cardan is a classic Greubel Forsey wristwatch that will undoubtedly delight the brand’s long-time collectors. It features a familiar case design that leans more towards a dressy style, in contrast to the integrated sporty look of the brand’s more recent watches.

However, true to the Greubel Forsey ethos, the Tourbillon Cardan is anything but a mere reproduction of bygone dress watches. In fact, the Cardan perfectly embodies the brand’s ethos, which is to create watches that honor the rules and traditions of classic Swiss watchmaking while infusing them with a contemporary aesthetic that belongs to our time. This is most apparent in the dial, which showcases multi-level components and partial open working, giving the watch a strikingly modern appearance not typically found in vintage chronometry timepieces.

But, more importantly, the brand has not only introduced a modern design language but also new mechanics. It has invented a variety of tourbillon configurations, ranging from an inclined tourbillon to a quadruple tourbillon. However, it never stands still and continues to innovate, as evidenced by its latest and 8th invention, the Tourbillon Cardan.

The Tourbillon Cardan can be broken down into three components. First, the core tourbillon itself, which completes a revolution every 16 seconds, or almost 4 complete revolutions per minute, making it the fastest within the brand’s collection.

Second, the tourbillon is, as you may have guessed, inclined at a 30-degree angle. This is an innovation that dates back to the founding of the brand in 2004. According to Greubel Forsey’s research, a 30-degree angle is ideal for the inclination of a balance in a wristwatch, considering the time it spends on a wrist and sitting on a desk, in terms of offsetting the gravitational error.

However, the 30-degree angle won’t always remain constant. Certain wrist movements or methods of placing the watch in a box or on a table can alter the inclination of the tourbillon to an undesirable angle, such as one that’s perpendicular to the ground. This is where the brand’s latest invention comes into play – the Cardan, a mechanism based on the principles of a gimbal.

Traditionally found in marine chronometers, a gimbal serves to maintain a horizontal profile of the marine clock, ensuring that the balance wheel does not encounter positional errors induced by gravity. This, in turn, increases precision and the ability for sailors to estimate deviation and determine longitude more accurately.

In the Tourbillon Cardan, the gimbal serves to maintain a 30-degree angle instead of a horizontal profile. This modern innovation pays homage to classic chronometry methods, setting the watch apart as a distinctive and uncommon offering in today’s wristwatch landscape. Only a handful of past examples of wristwatches with a gimbal exist, including the Zenith Christophe Colomb Hurricane and, to some extent, the ingenious Cartier Astrorégulateur.

You might wonder why the inclination angle is fixed at 30 degrees rather than horizontal, which would minimize gravitational influence. That’s because the gimbal in the Tourbillon Cardan isn’t freely moving. Instead, it has a 48-second period during which it tilts backward and forward from +30 to -30 degrees. In other words, it doesn’t move freely to offset all inclined angles, but rather within a narrow range of angles. According to the brand, a 30-degree inclination for the tourbillon is ideal in this case.

Our verdict

The Tourbillon Cardan is a welcome addition to Greubel Forsey’s collection, encompassing several defining features of the brand. These include innovative timekeeping mechanisms, a contemporary yet elegant aesthetic, and, of course, impeccable hand finishing of all movement components.

By incorporating a gimbal, the Cardan embodies the brand’s ongoing pursuit of complex mechanics designed to enhance chronometry. Arguably, these traditional techniques may be less efficient than modern precision machinery methods such as deep reactive ion etching (DRIE) and LIGA, but these classic solutions offer a unique fusion of beauty and emotion, and will undoubtedly stand the test of time, at least from an artistic perspective. As the philosopher Zhuangzi eloquently pointed out, there is usefulness in the seemingly useless, and this watch serves as a sterling example of that concept.

Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan specs and price

Movement: Tourbillon Cardan; manual; 80 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, tourbillon, and power reserve indicator
Case: 46 mm x 13.81 mm; titanium; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Black plant-based strap with titanium folding clasp
Availability: From Greubel Forsey and its retailers
Limited edition: 55 pieces over the next five years
Price: SGD 729,000

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Limited Edition

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Introducing the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan appeared first on Revolution Watch.

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