Patek Philippe

Equal Measure: The modern chronographs of Patek Philippe

Celine Yap — Fri, 12 Jan 2024 09:00:58 +0000

Equal Measure: The modern chronographs of Patek Philippe

All of Patek Philippe’s modern era chronographs fall in two main categories, and they couldn’t be more different from each other.

Feature

By Celine Yap

Jan 12, 2024

Patek Philippe chronographs go a long way back. During the time when the company progressed into the wristwatch era, its first wrist-worn timekeeper introduced in 1923 was already a heavy hitter: a custom ordered split seconds chronograph known as No. 124 824. Thereafter, Patek Philippe began building a consistent portfolio of standard chronographs which have come to influence its modern-day references in more ways than one. Many of today’s best loved and most archetypal Patek Philippe chronographs such as the Refs. 5270, 5970, 5170 and 5930 are direct descendants of the historical references 1518, 130 and 1415 — to say nothing of watches like the legendary Patek Philippe “Tasti Tondi” Ref. 1463 which, in the words of Revolution founder Wei Koh, is simply “the most beautiful chronograph ever made,” and the exceptional Ref. 2499 considered by many to be one of the most remarkable wristwatches ever made by Patek Philippe.

Through the earlier chapters of this long and beautiful timeline, Patek Philippe worked with great chronograph manufactures such as Victorin Piguet, Valjoux and Lemania (later renamed Nouvelle Lemania). In particular, the Lemania caliber 2310 or CH 27-70 provided one of the most reliable bases on which Patek Philippe developed many of its most enduring chronograph references right up to this present moment, with caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q remaining steadfast to some of the manufacture’s split seconds chronograph references. Caliber 2310 was introduced by Lemania in the 1940s and entered Patek Philippe’s history books in the 1980s as CH 27-70, first seen in 1985 in the Ref. 3970 perpetual calendar chronograph and then in 1998 in the chronograph-only Ref. 5070. Measuring 12 lignes (27mm) with a height of 6.74mm, its compact proportions allowed Patek Philippe to further develop a split seconds chronograph off of it, presenting the results in 2007 through Ref. 5959 with caliber CHR 27-525 PS.

Caliber CH 29-535 PS 9 (top) powers many of Patek Philippe's present day chronographs such as Ref. 5172G

Yet much as the Lemania-based chronographs had met or even surpassed many of Patek Philippe’s rigorous demands and lofty ambitions with such timepieces, one dream remain unfulfilled for the manufacture: to be able to call these chronographs rightfully and unequivocally its own. Thus began in 2004 the research and development of an in-house manufactured integrated chronograph movement that would herald a bold new future for Patek Philippe — one that would also enable the manufacture to pursue ever more ambitious plans with its timekeepers. That movement, as all Patek Philippe aficionados know by now, is the caliber CH 29-535 PS.

The Classical Chronograph

Beginning from carte blanche, the manufacture took this opportunity to create the chronograph of its dreams. It considered every element of the movement, from the core structure and clutch configuration to the design of the wheels and optimal functionality of every single component. Further improvements were incorporated such as the introduction of the eccentric column wheel cap and a finger clutch lever to ensure smoother operation of the chronograph function. At the same time, it was eminently clear that this movement shall be Patek Philippe’s modern rendition of a classical manual wind column wheel chronograph, because the manufacture had already introduced its first fully proprietary chronograph self-winding movement caliber CH 28-520 in 2006 — but more on that later.

Caliber CH 29-535 PS stands apart from the Lemania caliber in a number of ways, primarily being updated to modern standards in performance and reliability. It has a 4 hertz oscillating frequency as opposed to 2.4Hz, and 65 hours of power reserve as opposed to 40 hours. It also proposed a precise jumping minute counter featuring a novel snail cam profile and an oversized spiral spring to provide power to the chronograph minute lever and, as mentioned earlier, debuted a new tooth profile for the chronograph wheel and the drive wheel that was aimed at eliminating the dreaded chronograph backlash. Taken altogether, Patek Philippe filed the following six new patents on the caliber CH 29-535 PS: optimized tooth profile, optimized synchronization of clutch lever and brake lever, precise adjustment of engagement depth at column wheel, slotted minute counter cam for precise jumping minute counter, self-setting hammers, and hammers pivoted between jewel bearings.

The self-winding caliber CH 28-520 has a vertical clutch configuration

After its much celebrated launch in 2009 with a surprising debut in the Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071, caliber CH 29-535 PS steadily made its way into Patek Philippe’s men’s collection and today powers the classical models 5172 and 5270, as well as 5470 which sprints on the high-speed monopusher version of the movement, caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, displaying elapsed time accurate to 1/10th of a second. Other variants of this caliber include the perpetual calendar chronograph CH 29-535 PS Q, split seconds chronograph CHR 29-535 PS, and perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph CHR 29-535 PS Q. Finally, it has to be mentioned that the caliber CH 29-535 PS is the first in the manufacture’s history to bear the Patek Philippe Seal, attesting to the quality and finesse of the movement according to factors defined by Patek Philippe and Patek Philippe alone.

The arrival of caliber CH 29-535 PS has indeed completed Patek Philippe’s immense offering of chronographs. But in no way should one take this to mean that the manufacture had not made any strides in this sector prior to its development — far from it. Shortly after the turn of the new millennium, and a few years before caliber CH 29-535 PS was revealed, Patek Philippe had already found an opportune moment to present its first officially in-house manufactured automatic chronograph movement, caliber CH 28-520, which was conceptualized and designed for the modern era.

The High Performance Chronograph

Introduced in 2006, caliber CH 28-520 was destined for a completely different path than the caliber 29-535 PS. It arrived at a point in Patek Philippe history when the manufacture was pushing ever harder the possibilities of modern watchmaking as it revealed the first results of its experimentation with silicon components. A year earlier, Patek Philippe had debuted the first silicon escape wheel for a Swiss lever escapement in its Advanced Research Ref. 5250 Annual Calendar. Together with the launch of caliber CH 28-520, the manufacture unveiled its then-new and highly revolutionary Spiromax silicon-based balance spring, and then in 2008, continued with the introduction of the Pulsomax escapement comprising a pallet fork and escape wheel, both of which are silicon-based.

Suffice to say, caliber CH 28-520 heralded a new dawn for Patek Philippe. Unlike the earlier Lemania-based CH 27-70 family of chronographs, it is utterly contemporary and incorporates all the necessary features of a high-performance and ultra robust chronograph movement. Automatic winding with a 21K gold central rotor allows it to be a suitable daily timepiece. The vertical clutch configuration with column wheel means you could use the chronograph hand as a running seconds hand with negligible impact on amplitude. The 30mm diameter at a height of 5.3mm allows it to be highly compatible with additional stack-on modules. A slightly increased power reserve of between 50 to 55 hours allows wearers to leave it over the weekend without requiring time setting on Monday. The 4 hertz or 28,800vph frequency provides higher resistance to micro-shock, while the flyback function makes timekeeping extra convenient. It also combines the Spiromax hairspring with a Gyromax balance which instantly establishes caliber CH 28-520 as one of the industry’s most future forward movements in the new millennium.

On top of these technical improvements, caliber CH 28-520 also proposed a completely new method of displaying elapsed time. Instead of the standard chronograph subdials for the small seconds, 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter, this movement packs both the minute and the hour totalizers within one off-centered circular display at six o’clock. Two small co-axially mounted hands provide readings of elapsed time, while the chronograph seconds hand is centrally mounted, co-axial with the hour and minute hands, springing to action once the pusher is activated. Additionally, there is a day/night indicator discreetly contained within this display, increasing the overall functionality of the timepiece. Caliber CH 28-520 first appeared in the Ref. 5960 and the movement reference for this model is the caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H, where IRM refers to indicateur réserve de marche and QA, quantième annuel, which tells us that the three apertures arching across the dial self-adjusts at the end of every month except on February 29, making this a later version of Patek’s annual calendar chronograph.

Caliber CH 28-520 is also found in the Nautilus and Aquanaut chronograph models 5980 and 5968, albeit as a simplified version without the complete annual calendar display and a pared-down chronograph display showing only elapsed minutes, and the date. The movement references for these models are the calibers CH 28-520 C/522 and CH 28-520 C/528 respectively for the Nautilus and the Aquanaut, with the base caliber CH 28-520 found in the Aquanaut Luce Ref. 7968/300R-001.

Without an annual calendar module, caliber CH 28-520 C has an overall height of 6.63mm and this remains relatively slim for a chronograph movement, which brings us back to Patek Philippe’s original intention to design the movement such that it could accommodate a variety of complications while retaining a slim profile. To date, the manufacture has also paired it with a dual time function with day/night indication, as shown with caliber CH 28-520 C FUS where FUS refers to fuseau horaire. This movement is used in the Nautilus and Calatrava Pilot Travel Time collections’ Refs. 5924 and 5990. Along with dual time, Patek Philippe has also equipped the movement with the world time complication — a collector’s favorite for sure — in calibers CH 28-520 HU/524 and CH 28-520 HU/530, where HU refers to heure universelle.

With the classical construction of caliber CH 29-535 PS and the technical superiority of caliber CH 28-520 C, Patek Philippe continues its chronograph story by merging two highly distinctive yet ultimately equal objects of measuring time.

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The post Equal Measure: The modern chronographs of Patek Philippe appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Why is everyone crazy about Tiffany & Co. and Patek Philippe double-stamped dials?

Arthur Touchot — Sat, 23 Dec 2023 01:00:00 +0000

Why is everyone crazy about Tiffany & Co. and Patek Philippe double-stamped dials?

We trace the history and immense appeal of Tiffany & Co. and Patek Philippe double-stamped dials, which continue to capture the imaginations of collectors and celebrities alike.

News

By Arthur Touchot

Dec 23, 2023

Three years ago, Patek Philippe surprised everyone when the manufacture announced a final and very limited release of its iconic Nautilus Ref. 5711.

Tiffany double stamped rose gold ref. 5711/1R-001 (Image: Phillips.com)

The luxury sports watch — which many consider flawless — had already been celebrated twice before with special dial liveries, and with its 16-year production cycle finally coming to an end, enthusiasts were already anxiously waiting for its successor.

But the party wasn’t quite over, and for the model’s last dance, Patek Philippe invited its oldest and most loyal partner, the famous American jewelry house Tiffany & Co. with whom it had celebrated 170 years of business relations, to collaborate on a swansong edition.

The result was absolutely surprising and ravishing. Limited to 170 examples, the watches featured Tiffany-blue dials.

This was the first time the industry had ever seen the “1837 Blue” pantone color on a luxury watch. It must be noted that this was not a sign that Patek Philippe had fallen into the Tiffany-blue hype, but rather, a powerful nod to tradition, as the watches were also stamped by Tiffany, becoming the latest “double-stamped” collectible.

Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.”

The announcement also sent a strong signal to the watch industry. It reminded everyone of the longevity of the partnership between Patek Philippe and Tiffany, which had begun in 1851, and renewed their commitment to each other while their competitors shared a different vision of totally integrated retail networks.

The partnership that became the American Dream

Did you know that Tiffany & Co. and Patek Philippe were born within just 24 months of each other? The former was founded in 1837, in New York, by Charles Lewis Tiffany.

Two years later, Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek co-founded Patek, Czapek & Cie. in Geneva, Switzerland. A disagreement between the two men would lead to Czapek’s departure in 1845, and the arrival of a young French watchmaker named Jean Adrien Philippe.

Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean Adrien Philippe

While the technically gifted Philippe focused on the development of proprietary tools and the study of keyless mechanisms, Patek became consumed by the distressing state of the European economy following the revolutions of 1848.

In 1851, the company changed its name to Patek, Philippe & Cie., and Antoine de Patek started making plans to establish formal relationships with distributors in the United States, including Tiffany, Young & Ellis (the former name of Tiffany & Co. before 1853). The American retailer began selling Patek Philippe watches in 1851, but a formal agreement of partnership between the two companies was only signed in 1854 when Patek traveled to the U.S.

“Life in New York is very expensive,” he remarked in a letter dated December 15, 1854, just days after his arrival. The evening before, Patek had met Charles Tiffany for dinner, during which the two men had discussed many topics including the difficult times facing Swiss watchmaking, as well as American taste in watches.

“Mr. Reed [Gideon Reed, the resident partner of Tiffany & Co.’s branch in Paris] and Mr. Tiffany were very surprised to see me,” Patek continued. “Because of the general state of crisis, they cannot promise me to buy anything.” However, the dinner eventually led to a symbolic handshake and an agreement that solidified one of the most dependable relationships between two luxury houses.

Tiffany & Co. flagship store at New York Fifth Avenue

Tiffany would end up placing the largest order of Patek Philippe watches in the United States, and would later pursue a more exclusive agreement in 1876, specifying that the company would safeguard Patek’s interests “as if they were its own.”

Between 1900 and 1930, Tiffany & Co. helped Patek Philippe forge crucial ties with prominent American collectors. The Tiffany flagship boutique, opened in 1905 on Fifth Avenue, introduced some notable enthusiasts to the Swiss brand, including Henry Graves Jr., an esteemed figure within New York’s high society.

His collaboration with Patek Philippe resulted in some of the world’s most complex and expensive timepieces, culminating in the delivery of the Supercomplication in 1933, a pocket watch featuring 24 complications, including a celestial map of the Milky Way as seen from Graves’ Manhattan home at 834 Fifth Avenue.

Patek Philippe Supercomplication by Henry Graves Jr.

Thanks to the relentless efforts of its globe-trotting founder, Patek Philippe developed an impressive distribution network all over the world. The brand worked not only with retailers across Switzerland (Beyer, Bucherer and Gübelin) and its European neighbors (Asprey, Hausmann & Co. and Trucchi), but also in South America (Serpico y Laino, Freccero and Cuervo y Sobrinos). However, its oldest retail partner is Tiffany & Co. in the U.S.

Patek Philippe’s name was no doubt becoming synonymous with high-end watchmaking, but in those countries where the stores were better known than the watches they carried, clients found reassurance in double-stamped pieces featuring the retailer’s name next to the watchmaker’s.

Tiffany’s prized signature

In his spectacularly rich book titled Le Cadran, Visage de la Montre Bracelet au 20eme Siècle (“The Dial, the Face of the Wristwatch in the 20th Century”), Dr. Helmut Crott describes the double-stamping process.

He writes, “In most cases, the retailer’s signature was applied during the fabrication of the dial by the company’s dial makers: Stern, or Singer, or Flückiger. This would happen last, as the final step and after the Zapon (the dial’s final layer) had been added.”

Patek Philippe’s relationship with Tiffany & Co. continued, when Henri Stern, the son of the maison’s new owners, moved to New York City in 1937 to run the company’s distributorship. With Stern’s presence, the companies grew closer. In fact, Tiffany’s historical support for Patek Philippe was rewarded when the retailer became one of the very few to receive permission to stamp Patek Philippe dials themselves, upon receiving the watches from Geneva.

Philippe Stern (left) with his father Henri Stern, who had a fancy for perpetual calendars with linear displays.

Auro Montanari, also known by his nom de plume John Goldberger, calls it “a very powerful signature.” The renowned Italian collector and author is quick to point out that collectors are ready to spend a significant premium for it. Many are motivated by the rarity of these watches. Whether modern or vintage, Patek Philippe models produced serially are much harder to find with a retailer signature than without.

A quick look at some of the company’s most iconic references of the 20th century, pieces that would have been recommended to the most loyal and important customers, confirms their rarity.

Of the watches sold publicly at auction, less than five percent of Ref. 2499 models have a Tiffany & Co. signature. Less than three percent of Ref. 1463 have a Tiffany & Co. signature. And only a single example of the Ref. 1579 is known to exist with a Tiffany & Co. signature.

Lot 38 of the Geneva Watch Auction Five - A Patek Philippe Ref 2499 in yellow gold, with dial signed Tiffany & Co.

There are, of course, more sentimental reasons for their popularity.

“The presence of the Tiffany signature on the dial, provides an additional opportunity for emotional connection and intrigue for collectors,” says Montanari.

Roni Madhvani agrees with him. The luxury watch enthusiast has built an impressive collection of double-signed pieces over the past 30 years.

“Some may find this rather bizarre and odd,” says Madhvani. His attraction to such pieces is well-known on social media, earning him a large following. People are intrigued by these pieces, which reveal just enough for its new owner to know about the watch’s origins, but leave the rest of the story blank, ready to be filled by your imagination.

One wonders… who was the watch’s original owner? A local businessman? A traveling diplomat? Why were they drawn to this Patek Philippe? Did they already know about the brand? Or did the retailer recommend it to them?

And then, there are the myriad possibilities of what could have happened to the watch once it left the store. Where did it go next? How far did it travel? What experiences did it survive?

Those were some of the questions that ran through my head when, in 2019 Phillips held “Double Signed,” a thematic auction dedicated to such pieces. I handled many vintage Tiffany-signed Patek Philippe watches ahead of the Geneva auction, including a beautiful first generation Patek Philippe Ref. 2597. The stunning yellow gold watch, one of the first with a movement made specifically for international travel was born in 1961 and sold by Tiffany & Co. to one of its clients on February 20 that year.

Lot 64 of the Double Signed thematic auction - A Patek Philippe Ref 2597 in yellow gold with dial signed Tiffany & Co.

“Double Signed” reunited more than 60 watches, most of them made and exported by Patek Philippe, to one of the brand’s international retailers. Incredibly, some were coming home for the first time since leaving the manufacture and we were able to answer some of the questions people had about them.

But there is also beauty in not being able to know everything. It’s what fuels collectors like Madhvani to keep searching for pieces worn in different corners of the world.

“This fascination has developed and evolved over my collecting lifetime,” he says. “From Havana, to Lima, to New York, these double-signed watches provide satisfaction on another, more emotional level.”

Patek’s and Tiffany’s enduring alliance

Today, very few of the names that have graced Patek Philippe dials remain in existence. And even fewer continue to offer double-stamped dials outside of rare anniversary pieces. That extra level of exclusivity is why some have become fascinated with modern Tiffany-signed Patek Philippe.

Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.”

“Thousands and thousands of people started to equate Tiffany & Co. dials with an extra layer of exclusivity, and the prices at auction for Tiffany dials quickly started to skyrocket,” says John Reardon, a vintage Patek Philippe expert and founder of Collectability.

Reardon credits one collector, Jasem Al Zeraei, for creating hype around the double-signed pieces. Al Zeraei is a Kuwait-based watch collector known for his affinity for modern Patek Philippe watches signed by Tiffany. Like Madhvani, he is very active on social media, where he posts watches from his collection under the handle @patekaholic.

“My attraction to the stamp is mainly in the pursuit of uniqueness and individuality,” says Al Zeraei, noting how difficult that is to achieve in today’s market. “To have that extra stamp offers that special feeling for what can otherwise be considered a ‘mass-made’ timepiece.”

Those 10 extra letters are “a lesson in marketing,” according to Al Zeraei, although a double signature was not always popular with clients. Reardon recalls when some 20 years ago, clients had very split opinions on these watches.

Says Reardon, “Clients of Tiffany & Co. would occasionally ask for new watches not to have Tiffany & Co. stamped on the dial. On one occasion, I remember asking a client why and the client said the retailer stamp was nothing more than extra ‘graffiti’ on the dial and that only Patek Philippe should be seen on it.”

Dr. Crott also prefers double signatures in older models and finds it difficult to understand the appeal of such dials in modern watches. “I think it is more logical and convincing that a signature is related to an event for the retailer,” he says.

Patek Philippe has made several anniversary pieces to celebrate its partners — including but not limited to Tiffany & Co. These pieces are made in very limited numbers and come with special design features.

The American jewelry retailer was first celebrated in 2001. For the 150th anniversary of their partnership, the two brands presented a special version of the Ref. 5150, an annual calendar with phases of the moon at six o’clock. Patek Philippe made the watch in three precious metals (yellow, pink and white gold), each one in 150 examples. The dial also featured a stylized “T” at 12 o’clock, in reference to the jeweler’s name, and an original display of the month.

Patek Philippe ref. 5150 (Image: Philips.com)

Patek Philippe then launched several limited editions celebrating its boutique’s move to Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue address, including two tonneau-shaped Gondolo ladies’ Ref. 4987G watches in 2009, followed three years later by another two Ref. 4987G timepieces and a special Ref. 5396G.

Patek Philippe ref. 5396G-01

The round annual calendar Ref. 5396G, a limited edition of only 100 pieces, featured luminous hands, a black dial fitted with gold applied Breguet numerals, special engraving at the back and, of course, the Tiffany and Co. stamp — elements that distinguish it from the regular model. The watch was a hit outside of Tiffany’s regular clientele and became highly sought-after as an investment piece.

Less than 10 years later, the 170-piece Tiffany-blue Ref. 5711 would become the greatest symbol of Patek Philippe and Tiffany’s marketing power. For access to one of the pieces, collectors would have to be a historical client of Tiffany & Co. or be named Jay-Z, Leonardo di Caprio, LeBron James or Ed Sheeran, or would have to spend several millions of dollars above retail for one of the rare pieces sold at auction.

Finally, it goes without saying that the relationship between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is a very special one. Its longevity is impressive and it has survived the best and worst of the past over 170 years, including global recessions, two world wars, and a full-blown identity crisis following the introduction of quartz in the watchmaking industry.

Through it all, the brands’ aims have shifted. What was once a mutually beneficial business partnership, meant to expand one brand’s reach and another’s revenue, has outgrown its original purpose.

Patek Philippe no longer needs Tiffany & Co. to sell its watches in North America, while the watches sold by Tiffany & Co. represent a rather thin slice of its billion-dollar luxury business.

Yet, like an anchor in the storm, the agreement found by Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. back in 1854 continues to bring both brands joy, as proudly displayed on the double-stamped watches offered to the U.S. retailer’s best clients.

About Arthur Touchot

Arthur Touchot is a well-known figure in the world of luxury watches and a seasoned professional in the watch industry. He is currently the Head of Digital Strategy & Watches Specialist at Phillips Watches and is also an Academy Member of the Fondation du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

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The post Why is everyone crazy about Tiffany & Co. and Patek Philippe double-stamped dials? appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Luxury Sports: The Patek Philippe Nautilus and Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie

Lee Sheng — Wed, 29 Nov 2023 09:55:49 +0000

Luxury Sports: The Patek Philippe Nautilus and Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie

The true luxury sports watch.

News

By Lee Sheng

Nov 29, 2023

After the commotion surrounding the olive green and Tiffany blue Nautilus ref. 5711, Patek Philippe has exercised caution in its approach to launching sports watches over the past two years. Notably, during Watches & Wonders 2022, despite widespread speculation and high expectations, the brand opted not to introduce any new Nautilus models. This strategy reflects the brand’s focus on emphasizing its core strengths – classical watches characterized by simplicity or complications executed to a high standard.

However, the current month signals a departure from this measured strategy, with the brand unveiling an unexpected array of high-jewelry Nautilus and Aquanaut models. While gem-set watches are not uncommon in the world of watchmaking, these new timepieces stand out for their extravagant and exceptional execution. The new Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow”, in particular, marks the brand’s first foray into combining a minute repeater complication with a sports watch.

Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie

A complication perhaps most strongly associated with Patek Philippe, the minute repeater is traditionally reserved for the brand’s most classical watches in terms of size, design, and finishing. Of course, it comes with a substantial price tag and exclusivity, available only to the brand’s best and most loyal customers.

In that sense, the new Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater is unexpected, from two perspectives. First, it’s Patek Philippe’s inaugural sports watch housing a minute repeater. The Aquanaut Luce now stands as the most complicated Patek Philippe sports watch ever, eclipsing even the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740 in complexity. And interestingly, it’s marketed as a ladies’ sports watch. The combination of the traditionally reserved complication with the brand’s fervent sports watch is unexpected, potentially even shocking to traditional fans of the brand.

Second, the Aquanaut Repeater makes a grand entrance with a “rainbow” gem setting adorning the dial, case, and bracelet. For the bracelet version, even the hands are set with colorful sapphires, as is the case flank. In essence, the entire watch is practically crafted from rose gold structures framing gemstones. This lavish and showy appearance is uncharacteristic of the brand’s minute repeater, which has always maintained a subtle elegance, even in models adorned with gemstones.

Undeniably pretty

Despite the surprising nature of the Aquanaut Repeater, it remains an exciting and logical addition to the Patek Philippe lineup for two primary reasons. First, it expands the brand’s repertoire of sports watches, aligning with their long-term vision for this category. The brand has consistently introduced complications like travel time, chronograph, and perpetual calendar to its sports watches. Simultaneously, they’ve elevated the entire sports watch line to a higher luxury tier by producing more precious metal models, as seen in the launch of the ref. 5811G. Following this trend, it was only a matter of time before Patek introduced a more exclusive version of the Nautilus or Aquanaut, and the new Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” perfectly fulfills this expectation, despite its unconventional nature.

Furthermore, from a commercial standpoint, a fully gem-set Patek sports watch is a rare and expensive commodity, as is a Patek repeater. Consequently, a Patek sports watch that is both fully gem-set and features a repeater is an exceptionally rare and costly piece. Its limited production volume ensures that it won’t negatively impact the brand’s identity or strain its production capacity. Additionally, its exclusive target audience is not concerned with the watch’s limited appeal. With a reported retail price of approximately CHF 2.5 million for the bracelet version, the brand only needs to sell a handful of units to generate significant profit. Given the desirability of Patek Philippe sports watches, fully jeweled Patek sports watches, and complicated, fully jeweled Patek sports watches, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” is certain to find success within its niche market.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” has divided collectors and enthusiasts, with some questioning the incorporation of the chiming complication on a sports watch. However, history has shown that time can transform controversial designs into coveted icons, as seen with the Royal Oak and Daytona. The gem-set Daytona, particularly the ref. 6269 and 6270, exemplifies this phenomenon. It is not unreasonable to envision the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” following a similar trajectory. As Patek Philippe’s first sports watch with a minute repeater, it marks a milestone in the brand’s history. That said, its lavish gem-setting, while certainly showing a high level of craftsmanship, is arguably not as groundbreaking as the conceptual leap of the vintage references.

Nautilus Haute Joaillerie “Snow-Set”

While the Aquanaut Repeater has certainly seized the spotlight, Patek Philippe has quietly introduced a couple more high-jewelry sports watches. Another example is the white gold Nautilus “Snow-Set,” which is fully gem-set – including the bracelet – with diamonds and combined with either blue sapphires, red rubies, or emeralds.

Several Nautilus models have been fully “iced out,” but the new one stands out for two distinct reasons. To begin with, the use of two-tone gemstones distinguishes it from the typical fully iced-out watches that can appear monotonous, being either all-diamond or all-sapphires. In this sense, there is beauty and originality in the new Nautilus. Notably, the debut of red, blue, and green together enhances its appeal, making it more enticing to own a trio of gem-set Nautilus watches than just one.

Beyond the colors, the new Nautilus employs a clever gem-setting technique known as “snow-set,” involving the arrangement of different sizes of gemstones to create a more organic and natural look than the usual uniform arrangement of the same size.

Ladies’ Nautilus ref. 7010R

Finally, Patek Philippe introduces a more accessible iteration of its jeweled sports watches with the unveiling of the Ladies’ Nautilus ref. 7010R. This new timepiece boasts a rose gold case subtly – relatively speaking – adorned with diamonds exclusively on its bezel. Featuring a quartz movement, the ref. 7010R emerges as the most economically approachable option among the recent releases.

Despite the simplicity of the gem setting, the thoughtful use of color introduces a touch of sophistication. The purple dial, paired with the rose gold case, creates a rich color palette that distinguishes it from other Ladies’ Nautilus models, which typically feature more conventional dial colors like silver or golden brown. For those desiring an attention-grabbing timepiece without the extravagance of the aforementioned models, the new Ladies’ Nautilus is an ideal choice.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie ref. 5260/355R-001 and ref. 5260/1455R-001 specs

Movement: R 27; automatic; 48 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and minute repeater
Case: 38.8 mm x 10.1 mm; 18k rose gold; not water resistant but protected against humidity and dust
Strap: Rubber strap or gem-set rose gold bracelet
Availability: Exclusively at Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva, Paris, and London during the introductory phase
Limited edition: No
Price: Unavailable

Patek Philippe Nautilus Haute Joaillerie ref. 7118/1451G-001, ref. 7118/1452G-001 and ref. 7118/1453G-001 specs

Movement: Cal. 26‑330 S; automatic; 45 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 35.2 mm x 8.65 mm; 18k white gold; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Gem-set white gold bracelet
Availability: At Patek Philippe boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: No
Price: Unavailable

Patek Philippe Ladies’ Nautilus ref. 7010R-013 and 7010/1R-013 specs and price

Movement: E 23‑250 S C; quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Case: 32 mm x 6.9 mm; 18k white gold; water resistant to 60 m
Strap: Rubber strap or rose gold bracelet
Availability: At Patek Philippe boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 39,620 (strap); USD 56,180 (bracelet)

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FROM THE SHOP

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Laurent Ferrier

Limited Edition

Laurent Ferrier × Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor “Amazonia”

$57,500.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber FBN 229.01 with natural escapement; 72-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case	40mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 30m
Dial	Verdant green, with sector track; applied, white rhodium treated gold Arabic numerals and hour markers
Strap	Brown calf leather with Alcantara lining, stainless steel pin buckle; additional Milanese bracelet in stainless steel
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 15 pieces

The post Luxury Sports: The Patek Philippe Nautilus and Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Stop Freaking Out About Patek’s Blingy New Watch

Zen Love — Sat, 18 Nov 2023 13:00:54 +0000

Stop Freaking Out About Patek’s Blingy New Watch

Flashy, diamond-decked watches don’t signal a new direction for Patek Philippe.

Opinion

By Zen Love

Nov 18, 2023

A total of 53.71 carats of jewels cover one of Patek Philippe’s newest watches. From the dial, its hands and markers, to the bezel, onto the bracelet, and even set into the sides of the bracelet’s links, 779 baguette-cut sapphires in a mix of colors form a rainbow motif. Some 130 baguette-cut diamonds fill the negative space.

Depending on your perspective, it’s either drool-worthy—or completely over-the-top. We’re talking, of course, about the new Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Self Winding Minute Repeater (5260/1455R-001) which has proven especially polarizing.

Nevermind that it introduces a minute repeater to the Aquanaut line for the first time, the hot takes are spicy and meme-makers have had a field day based on its flashy, opulent nature. It undermines the brand’s cultivated image of quiet sophistication, they cry. It’s a money-grab meant for baller celebs that don’t even appreciate the brand’s history and watchmaking, they say. Patek is losing its way, they fret. It’s not even waterproof, they lament.

People, relax. Is a colorful, iced-out Patek really that shocking? Aesthetics are subjective, your opinions are valid, and the watch world is better off for your passion. And, granted, the watch’s design is rather flashy. But, to me, the reaction is somewhat overblown. It doesn’t seem like a massive departure for the brand, and it does what it’s meant to do very well. It’s a showcase for its in-house gem setting and a halo piece even among the brand’s always exclusive and expensive watches—but another thing it’s meant to do is to be provocative.

The primary grievance seems to be stylistic (I’m not going to get into this high-complication, high-jewelry, price-on-request watch’s “not water resistant” rating). The loud, blingy nature of the watch raises comparisons to brands associated with ostentation and celebrity flexes, and strikes some as anathema to Patek’s beloved persona. It might not look like the Patek Philippe you know and love best, but it represents a facet of the company that’s long existed.

Firstly, it’s described as Haute Joaillerie, for women. The brand has long been making such watches, and they’ve even made iced-out, rainbow-themed watches before. In fact, the watch in question is among several diamond-caked Aquanauts and Nautili introduced together for November 2023. The others are apparently far less controversial.

Sure, it’s easy to imagine this particular Aquanaut on the wrist of Floyd Mayweather but, in addition to his Hublots, jewel-encrusted Royal Oaks and Jacob & Co.s, it would fit right into his collection alongside other sparkly Pateks. In other words, watches like this have long existed, to some degree. To me, this shows that this particular watch doesn’t signal something like a change of direction at the brand, as many fans seem to worry.

Patek Philippe will keep making excruciatingly beautiful and understated watches. Don’t worry about that. None of this is to say that a watch like this would fit into my personal wardrobe (much less my budget), but I’ll tell you what I like most about it (aside from a Patek Philippe minute repeater): I like it when brands take risks and challenge perceptions. I also like that the watch collecting community feels so strongly about such watches. That’s healthy on both counts.

Learn more about the Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Self Winding Minute Repeater (5260/1455R-001) on Patek Philippe’s website here.

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FEATURED FROM SHOP

Sold Out

Atelier Wen

Limited Edition

Atelier Wen X Revolution Perception - XI

$3,400.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding extra thin Dandong caliber SL1588; 41-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and seconds
Case	40mm; grade 5 titanium; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Red guilloché with "Sunmao" structure; rhodium plated applied indexes
Strap	Titanium bracelet and white colored rubber strap
Limited Edition	Limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces

The post Stop Freaking Out About Patek’s Blingy New Watch appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm – a Tribute to Philippe Stern

Troy Barmore — Mon, 13 Nov 2023 09:37:49 +0000

The Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm – a Tribute to Philippe Stern

Looking after it for the next generation.

News

By Troy Barmore

Nov 13, 2023

Watches are highly sentimental objects, often transcending the core function of measuring time by marking it as well. Many a timepiece has changed hands between father and son, the weight of the heirloom being measured not only in grams of platinum or gold, but also in meaning and emotion. But in rare circumstances, and on the most auspicious of occasions, celebrations are observed by the creation of something truly unique. If you happen to be Thierry Stern, the current president of Patek Philippe, then such a creation will be very special indeed.

In celebration of his 85th birthday, Patek Philippe has honored Mr. Philippe Stern with the release of the Minute Repeater Alarm Reference 1938P-001. A striking combination of tenebrism and craftsmanship, the 18k white gold dial features a portrait of the man himself – a dignified 3 quarter profile in Grand Feu white and grey enamel emerging from the inky depth of the Grand Feu black enamel background. It’s a dramatic, slightly asymmetrical design, evocative and cinematic, conjuring comparison to Coppola or the iconic silhouette of Hitchcock. An unintentional similarity to be sure, but it nevertheless communicates the presence that Philippe Stern still maintains at the manufacture and the admiration that it still holds for him in turn.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm

This new chiming masterpiece, limited to just 30 pieces, features an exclusive evolution of the caliber R 27 self-winding movement, which integrates the former manufacture president’s personal favorite complication – the minute repeater, (though that is not where the mechanical achievements end.) In addition to the epochal function, an alarm announcing the preset time was added, necessitating the addition of some 227 parts and resulting in 4 new patents. Set just beneath the dial’s signature at 3 o’clock is a small, elegant bell shaped cutout, an indicator for the chiming mode which can be changed via a pusher within the crown. When the beguiling aperture shows black, the watch is in the minute repeater mode. When white, it is set to alarm, wound and ready to announce a pre-determined time. Once the moment has past, the bell will show red, indicating that the slide must once again be actuated in order to wind the alarm function.

As with all examples of haute-horology, it is a complicated object in every sense of the word. However, Patek Philippe’s designers and engineers went to great pains to ensure that the use of these functions was not only intuitive, but also safe, lest the fear of malfunction diminish the joy of their creation. As one might expect, the enjoyment of the 1938P’s mechanism is not limited to the auditory or tactile, but also the visual as well. The platinum officer’s-style case back reveals the resplendent caliber R AL 27 PS movement. The center piece of the movement is the prominent, rhodium plated yellow gold micro-rotor, which is adorned with Philippe Stern’s signature, hand engraved and filled with black lacquer.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm

Upon the inside of the dust cover (a dreadfully utilitarian phrase for such an elegant barrier) are the words – “À mon père, 85 ans de passion horlogère” or, “To my father, 85 years of watchmaking passion.” It is the dedication of a son to his father, marking a lifetime of devotion to timekeeping of the highest order, engraved upon a watch which is itself a manifestation of that selfsame passion.

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FROM THE SHOP

Unimatic

Limited Edition

Unimatic x Revolution U1 Milsub "Blue"

$1,220.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber SW200-1b; 41-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and seconds
Case	41.5mm; 316 steel with Cerulean blue stonewashed Cerakote coating, matte vintage navy aluminium bezel insert; water resistant to 300m
Dial	Matte vintage navy; hour markers outlined in Super-LumiNova
Strap	Vintage navy TPU-coated nylon; additional vintage navy nylon with fabric keepers
Limited Edition	Limited Edition of 200 pieces

The post The Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm – a Tribute to Philippe Stern appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Behind the Scenes at Patek Philippe’s New PP6 Manufacture

Cheryl Chia — Fri, 08 Sep 2023 08:00:37 +0000

Behind the Scenes at Patek Philippe’s New PP6 Manufacture

A tour inside Patek Philippe’s no-expense-spared new facility brings some eye-opening insights into what it means to be truly vertically integrated.

Patek Philippe

By Cheryl Chia

Sep 8, 2023

When one of the world’s most important watch manufactures announced the completion of its expansive new facility in Plan-les-Ouates, the news naturally sparked immense curiosity and anticipation. The magnitude of this achievement left many wondering about the potential it held for Patek Philippe’s future, particularly in terms of production volume. A few months ago, Patek Philippe opened the doors of its new PP6 manufacture to members of the press, granting us the opportunity to witness the inner workings of a uniquely vertically integrated production that most other industrial luxury watch brands would give their right arm to have.

PP6 comprises a total of 10 stories, four of which are underground — two for plant areas and two for parking. Above ground, there are four production floors, a training floor, and a restaurant located on the top level.

Within the facility’s walls lies the embodiment of Patek Philippe’s two distinct yet evenly matched strengths — an unceasing spirit of innovation and a remarkable consistency in quality at scale and across price points. This accomplishment is a result of effectively managing and optimizing the synergy between advanced machinery and human expertise. As emphasized by the brand, the primary aim of the new PP6 facility is not to augment production volume significantly, but rather to optimize manufacturing processes under one roof while also enhancing production capabilities for their complicated and Rare Handcrafts watches. Last year, Patek Philippe produced a total of approximately 66,000 watches, which is around 6% more than the last reported annual production.

An industrial park at the periphery of Plan-Les-Ouates has been the home of Patek Philippe since 1996. Patek Philippe was the first to begin the process of consolidating all its disparate workshops previously scattered across Geneva into a single site. Its relentless pursuit of in-house knowledge and expertise has prompted significant expansion plans since their early establishment in Plan-Les-Ouates, preceding the presence of Rolex and Vacheron Constantin.

Patek Philippe, however, continues to maintain its presence in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the cradle of fine watchmaking, where it united three workshops — case making and polishing, including some bracelet components (Calame), as well as gem setting (SHG) — under one roof in 2008. Its horological empire also includes a dial-making workshop (Cadran Flückiger) in Saint-Imier, a movement casing workshop (Allaine) in Alle, a finishing workshop (Betakron) in the Jura, as well as a production centre encompassing haute horlogerie and repairs (Patek Philippe La Vallée SA) in Le Brassus.

When stepping foot inside PP6, its sheer dominance is resounding. Inaugurated in 2020, it sits a stone’s throw from Patek Philippe’s headquarters, its construction spanning five long years, followed by several additional months to complete its outfitting. It was so named as it represents the sixth wing within the entire premises. The headquarters, situated in the main building, is composed of four wings. The fifth wing, PP5, was built in 2009 to accommodate the production of movement parts. However, PP6 has now taken over from PP5 as the company has fully utilized the maximum permissible plot of land in Plan-les-Ouates. In other words, the functions once accommodated in the single-floor PP5 have now been shifted to PP6. Today, Patek Philippe’s Plan-les-Ouates manufacture accommodates approximately 2,000 employees.

Lobby of PP6

The building concept was envisioned by Frisk de Marignac Pidoux, while the interior architecture was designed by Frei & Stefani. PP6’s magnitude is easily grasped through a few figures. Stretching 189 meters in length and reaching 34 meters in height above ground, its total floor area spans a staggering 133,650m². Bringing this project to life required an investment of CHF 600 million — CHF 500 million for the construction of the edifice, while the remaining funds were channeled into its interiors, machinery and equipment.

The building comprises of 10 stories, four of which are underground — two for plant areas and two for parking. There are four production floors in all, followed by a training floor, as well as a large restaurant on the top floor.

The ground floor (level 0) is dedicated to the production and finishing of mainplates and bridges. Wheels and pinions, on the other hand, are made from scratch and finished on the first floor. The second floor is where the production, manual polishing, and assembly of cases, bracelets and other external components are carried out. Patek Philippe’s case and bracelet making department that was previously located in Perly has now been moved here. This floor also houses the production of spare parts as well as gem setting.

The third floor is home to the research and design division, including the Patek Philippe Advanced Research department. Unfortunately, it was out of bounds during our day of visit. The fourth floor, on the other hand, is dedicated to rare handcrafts, where skilled artisans carry out crafts such as engraving, enameling, and guilloché work.

Mainplate and Bridge Production

PP6 houses a fleet of over 400 state-of-the-art production machines designed in accordance with the brand’s requirements for small-series production. CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machines are automated systems used to control the movement of cutting tools with high precision and efficiency. It moves the cutting tool along the X,Y and Z axes according to the CAD design. The CNC software generates G-codes, which are a series of numerical instructions that dictate the speed, direction and distance of the movements, ensuring precise and repeatable machining operations.

A CNC machine with a large feeding wheel is used to process square plates made of brass, forming a mainplate or a bridge

The various stages of mainplate production

CNC machining is a topic that many watch enthusiasts would rather avoid, but it is essential in producing large batches of complex and precise parts around the clock. While there is rising interest in artisanal independent watchmakers today, some of whom continue to produce watches entirely by hand, albeit at a rate of under three watches a year, the ability to scale up production while maintaining a consistently high degree of refinement is a challenging art and the reason why Patek Philippe is the envy of the rest of the industry.

At the entrance of each production floor is a schematic diagram that shows the numerous processes involved at each step of the manufacturing journey. On the first production floor where mainplates and bridges are made, CNC lathes are used to process square plates made of brass. The underside of each plate undergoes milling and drilling using a large CNC milling machine with a huge feeding wheel. The resulting brass disc features holes and recesses to accommodate various parts.

The mainplate after being removed from the square plate

Subsequently, the underside of the plate is machine finished around the recesses before the thickness is checked. Only then will the top side of the plate be machined. Then, its contour is milled and rounded, forming a mainplate or a bridge. Afterward, the bridge is mechanically engraved with the Patek Philippe branding and then washed to remove any residue of oil or other potential contaminants. The bridge is then gilded. At this phase, red varnish is also applied in the hollows of gilded numbers and logos to ensure that they will remain gold even after rhodium plating.

Parts as Art

Next, any minute burrs or tiny scraps of material remaining on the bridges from machining are removed using a scraper with a narrow spearlike head and manually checked for quality control. Once completed, they are then ready to undergo hand finishing.

The mainplates or bridges are first decorated with perlage, also known as circular graining. It involves creating a pattern of small, overlapping circular shapes on the surface using a rotating abrasive tool. The operator must carefully push a lever downward to decorate the surface with a circle, and repeat the process with uniform pressure while ensuring that the rotating tool touches the plate at the right location.

Perlage executed on the recesses of a bridge

This decorative technique serves to eliminate machining marks, giving the surface an attractive luster while improving its resistance to corrosion. There are plans at each station that indicate the size of the circular graining to be executed. According to our guide, these plans were provided by a major department known as “the method”, responsible for translating construction plans into production schemes.

The edges of the bridges are then beveled using a handheld rotary tool, followed by straight graining on the squared-off sides of the bridge using an abrasive pencil-like tool. The craftsman gently strokes along the surface, creating parallel lines that give the metal a velvety, matte texture.

Beveling using a handheld rotary tool

The bridges are then decorated with Geneva stripes also known as Côtes de Genève. This decorative pattern consists of fine scratches that form parallel lines, creating a distinctive visual illusion of waves. The specialist operates a lathe equipped with a rotating abrasive tool head set at a slight angle, skillfully guiding the tool head along the mainplate or bridge’s length in a continuous and seamless motion. It is crucial to maintain a consistent speed and angle during this process to avoid creating an uneven and irregular finish.

Finally, the bridges and mainplates are protected from oxidizing with a fine layer of rhodium, which also imparts a distinctive white appearance. The plate and jewels are then loaded into a press fixture and assembled. After which, pins and studs are installed. According to our guide, employees in the finishing and assembly departments receive extensive training focused on a single operation for several months or even years. This requirement underscores the importance of qualities like stability and composure to uphold a consistent level of quality, given the rigorous final assessments that include both visual and mechanical inspections.

Pinions and Wheels

The tour was remarkably thorough, encompassing every aspect of watch production, including the crafting of wheels, pinions and arbors. While most brands that manufacture their own movements do produce these components internally, observing the process of creating these seemingly ordinary parts from the very beginning was remarkably enlightening as we are so rarely reminded of the complexity involved. Much focus has been placed on the aesthetic finishing of movement parts, but the functional finishing of these components is something most of us don’t think that much about. The smallest pinions and pivots must be cut and finished to perfection to achieve maximum efficiency in energy transmission.

Pinions and pivots are made using an automated profile turning machine. This machine contains long bars of brass or steel within a hopper. A bar is fed into a collet, and a combination of cutting tools from the side and a milling tool from the front work to precisely carve the material into the desired shape.

Profile turning machines

On the left and right of the collet are cutting tools, with a milling tool in the foreground

The most eye-opening aspect is the multitude of steps required to finish these parts. A pinion shaft, for instance, must be polished at its teeth using a polishing wheel, burnished at its pivots, chamfered at the edges of its shaft, and polished at the face of the leaves as well as pivot ends. Due to its nano scale, it must be assembled with a brass wheel blank to be worked on and inserted into a pivot polishing machine, and then disassembled at the end.

They are then loaded into pivot polishing machine and polished

Spoked wheels, on the other hand, begin life as a brass strip that is stamped in batches using a press and pushed out of the strip. Afterward, the center hole is drilled individually, and the level of difficulty can vary significantly depending on the size of the wheel. Subsequently, the spokes of the wheels are then chamfered and angled using a press tool. They are then finished with circular graining before their hubs are sunk. Next, batches of wheel blanks are gathered on an arbor to undergo teeth machining.

Pinions are temporarily assembled with brass wheel blanks and burnished at the pivots

Following the teeth cutting process, the center hole is recut to a slightly larger size and chamfered. Subsequently, all of them are individually checked for quality. We were told that each specialist is allowed to pursue a different operation within their department, but generally do not switch over to a different department. For instance, a pinion finisseur cannot be moved to the spoked wheel department, highlighting the high degree of specialization required and fostered.

A spoked wheel undergoing chamfering where a press tool is used for adding internal angles to the blanks

Sinking the wheel

Most of the wheels and pinions for grand complications are also manufactured on this floor. There are as many as 400 different tooth profiles and a total of 17 special wheels, including star wheels, wheel nuts and the distinctive “octopus” wheel with serpentine spokes.

Case and Bracelet Making

The case and bracelet-making department, previously located in Perly, as well as the gem-setting department are now housed on the second floor of PP6. We had the opportunity to observe several production processes of the Nautilus bracelet.

Bracelet making starts off with long metal bars, which arrive at the manufacture pre-shaped with a lengthwise recess down the center. This is to limit the time spent on machining the links into the shape of an “H”. These bars are loaded into a bar-fed machining center and milled to form individual links. These links then undergo several stages of measurement and quality inspection, including manual control, gauge-based control, video measurement control, and finally, three- dimensional control, to ensure geometric accuracy.

After undergoing the first round of finishing, the bracelet is assembled

There is perhaps no area of finishing more synonymous with Patek Philippe than the finishing of its bracelets. Few can match their devotion to the craft of the perfectly finished bracelet. Following the machining process, it takes no less than 55 steps to perform the finishing operations on a Nautilus case and bracelet. The exterior H-shaped links and center links are individually prepared, each undergoing lapping on the underside and satin-brushing or mirror-polishing on top. The bracelet is then assembled by fitting the links together and installing the pins.

They are then rebuffed to create a full satin-brushed finish

The underside and top surface are then buffed to create a satin-brushed finish, followed by the chamfering of the edges. Afterward, the H-shaped links are protected with a masking tape, exposing only the center links that must undergo polishing and buffing once again. Following that, the clasp is assembled with its tension adjusted, and it is fitted onto the bracelet with the cover being riveted. As any mishap at this stage could result in parts having to be refinished, a protective film is used to cover the surfaces of the bracelet.

The H-shaped links are protected with a masking tape, exposing only the center links that must undergo polishing and buffing once again

Chamfering the edges

Case making, on the other hand, starts off by having the form of the case stamped from a strip of metal using a press. Then, a punch is used to force the piece into the cavities or impressions on the die block. This repeated pressing allows for gradual refinement of the case’s dimensions until the final shape is achieved. After forging, the case undergoes thermal treatment to homogenize the metal’s composition and structure, ensuring consistent mechanical properties to maintain the integrity and quality of the case. It then undergoes further machining in a CNC lathe before it is ready to receive surface treatments such as diamond polishing.

The various stages of machining, turning and finishing

One of the decorating techniques we got to witness was the creation of the Clous de Paris hobnail pattern on the caseband of watches such as the Calatrava Ref. 5531 as well as the Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300. The guillocheur uses a hand-operated comb and plane lathe, where a comb tool with a series of fine parallel teeth is wielded with utmost control and precision to engrave the surface of the case while turning it. The difficulty lies in the delicate balance between applying just the right amount of pressure and ensuring consistent movement to achieve the desired results.

Applying the Clous de Paris hobnail pattern using a comb and plane lathe

In a particularly dim corner of the room, there is the gem-setting department, which consists of skilled gem- setters dedicated to working on special Haute Joaillerie pieces. One of them was working on the dial of an Aquanaut where its checkerboard pattern had been replaced by baguette-cut diamonds and emeralds using the invisible setting technique. This technique provides a seamless and smooth appearance by hiding the metal framework that holds the stones. The result is a striking and visually appealing design where the gemstones seemingly blend into the surrounding precious metal.

The dimly-lit environment of a gemsetter enhances their ability to assess and set gemstones with precision

A metal framework or setting is specially designed to hold the stones. The metal bars or channels have notches on their sides to securely hold the gemstones in place. Tiny grooves, known as girdle grooves, are present on the sides of the baguette-cut stones that interlock with the notches in the metal framework, ensuring a secure and precise fit. The gem-setter uses pressure to secure the stones gently and precisely into the metal setting. The gems are fitted closely together, with no visible gaps or metal prongs between them, giving the illusion that they are floating or magically held in place.

Setting the dial of an Aquanaut with baguette-cut diamonds and emeralds using the invisible setting technique

After the stones are set, the piece undergoes careful inspection to ensure that each stone is perfectly aligned and secured in place. The patience, steady hand and gimlet eye that we take for granted in watchmaking, are just as crucial for the maestros of the gem-setter’s craft. As a testament to its complexity, watches featuring the invisible setting technique often command a premium.

Grand Complications

PP6 also houses the production and assembly of grand complications, which is by far the most labor-intensive aspect of their manufacture. The CNC machines used in this department cater to small serial production. Our guide explained that in the Grandmaster Chime, the mainplate begins as a very thick plate of metal that requires four hours of milling and drilling on the front and six hours of milling on the back.

Skeletonized plates and other intricate small components, such as levers, are manufactured with high precision using an electro or wire erosion. In this process, the machine submerges a series of metal plates in deionized water and directs a thin, electrically charged wire downward to cut the plates with exceptional accuracy. The wire erosion technique allows for the creation of complex and delicate shapes with very tight tolerances, ensuring the precise and intricate construction of parts.

Unlike movement parts for the classic collections, parts for grand complications can be extremely difficult to finish by hand due to their complex shapes and sizes. While a bench-style wooden grinding wheel or a handheld rotary tool is used on the regular production floor, we saw more metal and wooden files being used in this department. A manual file is more time-consuming, but it offers maximum control on more delicate and hard-to-reach areas, as seen on components like the bridge for a tourbillon or a centrifugal governor. These various methods of anglage enable Patek Philippe to consistently maintain a high quality of finish.

Rare Handcrafts

Continuing our journey to the fourth floor, we were treated to a demonstration of champlevé enameling in the Rare Handcrafts department. In champlevé enameling, a thick dial plate is carefully hollowed out to create outlines of cavities where enamel is painted into, before firing to affix the colors. This method allows different colors of enamels to be mixed freely within one compartment to create gradients and shading without affecting the others. It is generally simpler and quicker to execute compared to cloisonné, which requires precise shaping and positioning of thin metal wires, making it more suitable for serial production.

An enameller showcasing the technique of champlevé enameling

The demonstration was eventually hijacked by our group and the artwork began deteriorating rapidly. We were told that Patek Philippe fires the enamel after the application of each layer, while some brands opt to fire at the end for quicker production, limiting color and shading adjustments if issues were to be discovered only at the end. Alas, the artwork did not advance to the stage of firing; by the time we were done, it was ready for the bin.

Bottles of enamel powder

Cloisonné enameling on the dial of the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/50G-025 “Snow-Covered Landscape” created for the Grand Art Exhibition in Tokyo this year

The team of enamelers based in PP6 are skilled in as many as 12 types of enameling. There are also enamelers based in Patek Philippe’s dial factory, Cadrans Flückiger in St Imier. For certain special pieces, independent enamelers, including Anita Porchet, are subcontracted.

By the end of the tour, it was impossible not to come away with a profound respect and admiration for the completeness and consistency that permeate every aspect of Patek Philippe, be it in terms of watchmaking or manufacturing. These qualities are emblematic of the fact that the manufacture is nothing if not superlatively astute about its future, as it has been since the dawn of the Stern era. The decision to strengthen its complicated and Rare Handcrafts collections is a move that will only reaffirm its position as the foremost complication specialist and a steadfast guardian of Genevan craftsmanship. In an era consumed by hype-y steel watches, this is the light at the end of the tunnel.

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$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Behind the Scenes at Patek Philippe’s New PP6 Manufacture appeared first on Revolution Watch.

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