Wei Koh, Author at Revolution Watch

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

Wei Koh — Thu, 15 Feb 2024 11:00:32 +0000

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

Our latest collaboration with Chopard L.U.C is an 1860 watch executed in a Lucent Steel case combined with an untreated, massive gold guilloché main dial.

Limited Edition

By Wei Koh

Feb 15, 2024

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOrneQ4OiYU

Of all the collaborative projects I’ve made in the past decade, it is this watch, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel with untreated gold guilloché main dial, that I’m proudest of. Why? To begin with, I’ve always considered Chopard L.U.C to be one of the greatest unsung champions of truly authentic watchmaking in Switzerland. And I’ve always held the greatest admiration for the man behind Chopard L.U.C, my dear friend Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, for his unwavering devotion to quality and true functional innovation, embodied by the understated beauty of his watches. I’ve always believed that the 1860, the very first watch created by Scheufele and L.U.C, is one of the greatest men’s dress watches of all time.

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

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Why do I love the Chopard L.U.C 1860 so much? For all the same reasons that I admire Scheufele. First, let’s talk about internal content… The in-house movement in the L.U.C 1860, the caliber 1.96, is to my mind the single greatest achievement in micro-rotor movements ever created. In the context of 1997, the fact that it was the world’s first bidirectional winding micro-rotor movement massively improving winding efficiency, and that it came with both COSC certification and the hallowed Geneva Seal was an absolute revelation. Says my dear friend Nick Foulkes, who is also the jury president of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), “The caliber 1.96 was so good that it was an immediate wake-up call to the entire watch industry, that Chopard L.U.C intended to be counted amongst the very best in high watchmaking and that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele was a man who would not compromise on quality, beauty or performance.” Similarly, Scheufele is a man of tremendous internal content. He is a master of el arte de vivir, a multidimensional connoisseur of everything from horology to art, to wine, to automobiles and even sausage dogs, he could hold a PhD-level dissertation on any of these subjects should he wish. But he is, like his 1860 watch, even more importantly the absolute paradigm of perfect manners and discreet elegance.

The untreated 18k gold dial quietly shimmers, giving off an air of understated elegance

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This brings me to the second reason that I adore the L.U.C 1860 so unabashedly. It is an absolute masterpiece of neoclassical design. So much so that Hodinkee’s impeccably tailored chief brand officer, Eneuri Acosta, showed off his recent acquisition in the United States of this incredible Chopard L.U.C timepiece, making the L.U.C 1860 the dress watch of choice for horology’s cognoscenti, including the brilliant Louis Westphalen. A former journalist and now a marketing and business development executive at LVMH-owned Gérald Genta, he once compared Chopard’s L.U.C 1860 to Philippe Dufour’s iconic Simplicity. He explained that both watches are marvels of elegant design at around 36mm in diameter. Both watches are wonderful expressions of pure Zenreductionist, three-handed dress watch charm. Both watches feature guilloché main dials created by the famous Metalem dial manufacturer, which is now owned by Chopard. As Westphalen noted, the L.U.C “wears like a charm.” He remarked that the watch questions the frontier between vintage and modern watches as it is imbued with a classical charm, much like the Patek Philippe ref. 96.

Karl Friedrich Scheufele

Similarly, Scheufele is in both appearance and character the very embodiment of old-world charm and classic elegance. I feel that if Karl-Friedrich Scheufele didn’t exist, the Swiss watch industry would have had to invent him, because no other individual more completely embodies taste and style with classical understatement, gentility and nonchalance than Scheufele. Perhaps it is only a man who grew up driving a Bentley 8-Liter, a non-supercharged version as W.O. Bentley vastly preferred, or a Mercedes-Benz 300SL Gullwing, and who owns a vineyard that he has pivoted to biodynamism, that could have had the aesthetic sensitivity to create an iconic gentlemen’s dress watch like the L.U.C 1860.

In Steel and Style

So how did this new Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition come about? As always with our collabs, it was through a conversation born out of friendship. Now, I’ve only had the fabled Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) four times in my life and three of those times were because of Scheufele who is, though he would never say it, the Swiss French distributor of the world’s most mythical wine and a man of incredible largess. He and his wife Christine were awarded this role, despite the fact that they had not distributed a wine before, because Aubert de Villaine, the legendary patron of DRC, had been immensely impressed by their discreet elegance after meeting them through Perrine Fenal, the co-director of the DRC and daughter of the equally legendary winemaker Lalou Bize-Leroy.

If I were to make just one statement about the difference between DRC versus anything else I’ve ever tasted, I would simply say, “It keeps going.” Because what you taste on your palate continues to evolve every millisecond in an almost ceaseless journey. As its power begins to dissipate, it also grows evermore delicious and this feeling of ecstasy in retreat from you is both agonizingly seductive and enthrallingly uplifting. The Chopard L.U.C 1860, incidentally, also keeps going. It is a watch that you discover more and more nuances from, the more you wear it. However, unlike wine, its pleasure never dissipates. It is permanent, steadfast and eternal. During one of our incredible wine tastings, I asked Scheufele, “Do you think we could ever make the Chopard L.U.C 1860 in steel?”

The untreated 18k gold guilloché main dial creates a compelling contrast with its Lucent Steel case

He replied, “I’ve always wanted to but never felt the time was right.” He paused for a moment then added, “But now with our shift into Lucent Steel, I think it gives us a reason to do it.” For those of you who don’t know, Lucent Steel is recycled steel that is much more expensive than new steel. It is also harder and brighter. It was first introduced as the case material for Chopard’s Alpine Eagle family in 2019, as part of the brand’s pioneering commitment to ethical luxury. Since the end of 2023, Chopard has been using Lucent Steel in all of its steel watches. The brand has pledged that by 2025, the Lucent Steel components of Chopard’s steel watches will rise to a minimum of 90 percent. He then added one of the best statements I’ve ever heard, saying, “However, I would like to make two changes. The first is to remove the date window. In the context of 1997, a date display was very practical; however, today thanks to the abundance of digital information, it’s not necessary. And I think it [removing the date window] could slightly improve the aesthetics.”

The svelte 36.5mm case stays true to the original L.U.C 1860, while still feeling at home on all wrist sizes today

I closed my eyes and imagined legions of watch devotees around the world standing up and giving Scheufele a standing ovation akin to the one he had received in 2017, when he became the first person to win the top prize at the GPHG twice in a row for two different brands, Chopard and Ferdinand Berthoud. That was precisely the detail that so many L.U.C 1860 lovers had dreamed of for many years! As I was reveling in emotion, he added a second statement that absolutely blew my mind. He said, “Also, I was thinking of adding a hacking seconds function; it has always bothered me that there’s no stop seconds for this watch. It is after all COSC certified. As a true chronometer, it should have this.”

At this point, I had to refrain from throwing myself on the floor and sobbing in delirious happiness. I managed somehow to gather my wits long enough to say to him, “Is it possible to collaborate on a version of this watch?” He replied with five of the most wonderful words I’ve ever heard: “I don’t see why not.”

Best of 2023: Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel with Salmon Dial

OK, for those of you that wonder why I’ve had such immeasurable good fortune to collaborate with Chopard L.U.C and the wonderful Karl-Friedrich Scheufele now on three L.U.C 1860-based watches (the second was the Flying T, a stop seconds tourbillon with the caliber 1.96 as its base), I will just say I am immensely grateful for his kindness and generosity. Our collaboration story on this watch began in 2017 when I approached him with a request that at the time had piqued his curiosity. I asked him if he might consider reviving the L.U.C 1860 in a small limited series of 10 watches.

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

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I must admit my motivation was very personal, as I actually just wanted to own one of these watches myself. But I had also noticed that a younger generation of collectors was just beginning to become interested in smaller sized watches. To me, all the brands that were instrumental in the revival of mechanical watchmaking in the ’90s, Patek Philippe, Breguet, Blancpain, Parmigiani Fleurier and Chopard L.U.C, had one major advantage: they had mechanical movements that could fit smaller cases. Scheufele also thought that it would be nice to reintroduce this wonderful watch to his collection and, with great kindness, he accepted my proposal. Amusingly, we both have to thank his wife, Christine Scheufele, for perhaps the most important decision. We were wondering if we should make the watch slightly larger at 38mm or 39mm in diameter, in accordance with prevailing tastes in 2017. We asked her opinion and she replied, “If you are going to do it, do it correctly. Stay faithful to the original size at 36.5mm.” Once she said it, we both immediately knew she was right.

The untreated 18k gold guilloché main dial creates a compelling contrast with its Lucent Steel case

Upon agreeing to this most recent limited edition, Scheufele asked about the dial. Now this is the thing about the Chopard L.U.C 1860: like the man who created it, there’s so much substance within but it is always combined with a sense of humility and quiet confidence. A case in point is the massive 18K gold dial that undergoes a galvanic treatment in colors like salmon. However, I had always dreamed of unveiling the naked gold material of the dial. With the use of a steel case for the first time, I thought the contrast with a bare, untreated guilloché main would be highly compelling. Fortunately, Scheufele felt the same way and we embarked on the creation of this watch a full three years ago.

Powering the watch is a beautifully finished L.U.C movement based on the legendary caliber 1.96, the world's first bidirectional winding micro-rotor movement

Along the way, it was decided that in order to make financial sense for creating the tooling for a Chopard L.U.C 1860 case in Lucent Steel, the brand would need to launch its own edition. And again because of underlying commercial realities, Chopard would need to present its version of the watch, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel with salmon dial, at Watches and Wonders 2023 before we unveiled our watch, which of course I was completely fine with. This is the watch we see today on the wrists of connoisseurs and industry luminaries like Eneuri Acosta. What was interesting to see was that this time around, the 2023 L.U.C 1860 was one of the biggest hits of the year and has become an intensely sought after unicorn due to its rarity. As Chopard explains, “Because of the guilloché main dial, the production time for this watch is very long. At the moment we have a wait-list that is a few years long, which was not the strategy, but is the reality of the demand of the 1860.”

The L.U.C 96.40-L is based on the original calibre 1.96, the world's first bidirectional winding micro-rotor movement

The magnificent 2023 Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel with salmon dial was selected by multiple journalists, including the excellent Tony Traina, as the best watch of the year. He emphatically states, “The best new watch of 2023 is the Chopard L.U.C 1860 … This is about as close as it gets to the platonic ideal of a modern dressy watch.” Sure, it’s taken a bit longer for our collaboration, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition, to see the light of day but I think the wait has been well worth it. The watch will be made in a limited series of 50 pieces, which will be sold both at Chopard boutiques around the world and on the Revolution platform. All I can say is the watch is absolutely breathtaking to me. The contrast of the wonderful champagne colored gold with the bright white Lucent Steel case is a stunning combination and one that, like the incredible man who created the watch, is the perfect combination of old-world charm with modern dynamism.

Over the last few years, I’ve had the pleasure to work with some incredible people at Chopard on the L.U.C 1860 projects, and I would like to thank all of them as well as the incredible Karl-Friedrich and Christine Scheufele for the pleasure of this collaboration. I would like to also thank Karl-Fritz Scheufele for his passion and input into the watch.

The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition is produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces and priced at USD 25,200 excl. taxes. Available now.

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

Ref: 168860-3002

Movement: Self-winding L.U.C caliber 96.40-L; 65-hour power reserve

Functions: Hours, minutes and small hacking seconds

Case: 36.5mm; Lucent Steel; water resistant to 30m

Dial: 18K gold guilloché; applied faceted hour markers

Strap: Matte calfskin grained leather; Lucent Steel pin buckle

Price: USD 25,200 excl. taxes

Availability: Numbered and limited edition of 50 pieces

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FEATURED FROM SHOP

Chopard

Limited Edition

L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

$25,200.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding L.U.C caliber 96.40-L; 65-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and small hacking seconds
Case	36.5mm; Lucent Steel; water resistant to 30m
Dial	18K gold guilloché; applied faceted hour markers
Strap	Matte calfskin grained leather; Lucent Steel pin buckle
Limited Edition	Numbered and limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Grail Watch 9.1 Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

Wei Koh — Wed, 31 Jan 2024 11:00:45 +0000

Grail Watch 9.1 Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

Our latest collaboration with Moritz Grossmann transforms German silver into a work of exquisite timekeeping art.

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By Wei Koh

Jan 31, 2024

Here are the broad strokes on our latest collaboration with Moritz Grossmann. It is a limited edition of 20 steel Benu 37mm watches with a ravishing untreated German silver guilloché à main Kari Voutilainen dial, combined with an untreated German silver caliber 102.1 decorated with a frosted finish and full hand engraved details. Capitalizing on German silver’s unique ability to transform in color over time, each of these watches will develop a captivating patina and eventually become a pièce unique.

German silver takes on a warm gold hue as it develops patina, reflecting the time spent with its wearer

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Back in August 2023, we launched our six-piece limited edition Moritz Grossmann watch named “Silver Bullet,” a 37mm in diameter Benu timepiece, featuring the ravishing, hand finished three-fifth plate caliber 102.1, but with a sterling silver guilloché à main Kari Voutilainen dial made using a vintage engine-turning machine, paired with an 18K white gold case and a kudu leather strap in gorgeous anemone. However, the fact was that we had actually planned for this edition named “German Silver” to be launched at the same time.

Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 'Silver Bullet'

The idea behind the Benu 37 “German Silver” was to make a watch using untreated maillechort or German silver, as it is known in English, which has been the material of choice for the most famous Saxon watchmaking houses in Glashütte. This durable copper alloy made with nickel and zinc was our choice for both the movement and the dial. However, production delays meant that the 20 dials intended for this project were almost a year late because of overwhelming demand for Voutilainen’s guilloché à main masterpieces.

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver”

Further distinguishing the Benu 37 “German Silver” from its predecessor, the “Silver Bullet,” are the cases which are made from steel, and the movements which have a frosted finish featuring handmade bevels and hand engraved details. The result are watches that begin their life all appearing visually uniform, but because of German silver’s unique capacity to patina over time, each watch will eventually become a pièce unique as the dials and movements react with the wearer and the environment to take on the signature light honey color of aged maillechort. We love the idea that the watch truly becomes symbiotic with your life journey and its visual appearance will chronicle the time you’ve spent with it on your wrist. An added bonus, thanks to the choice of steel as the case material, is that this watch is more accessibly priced than its predecessor at USD 35,300.

The exquisitely finished guilloché dial looks right at home in 37mm stainless steel

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Now here comes the hard part — while we were able to make 20 examples of the watch, 11 of these have already been spoken for by individuals who were not able to acquire the “Silver Bullet.” This leaves nine watches available for purchase. Nine watches is not a lot, particularly when the watch is a stunning work in nuance. But before getting into the details of the Benu 37 “German Silver,” I want to take this opportunity to explain why I love Moritz Grossmann so much.

Each time I hold a Moritz Grossmann watch in my hand, I am struck by the pure straightforward beauty of the movement — the perfect expression of the brand’s eponymous spiritual father who championed the creation of “simple but mechanically perfect watches.”

I am always charmed by the brand’s quirky yet mechanically efficient innovations such as the Hamatic automatic winding mechanisms. I am consistently romanced by the movements’ innately Saxon hallmarks, from the flame-treated purple screws to the gold chatons, to the Glashütte stripes on the German silver two-third plate, the sumptuously engraved balance and escape bridges and the choice of white sapphires over traditional rubies. My sense of aesthetics is always piqued by the charm of its “tremblage” dials, an ancient hand engraving technique to decorate the German silver dial using different tools.

Moritz Grossmann CEO Christine Hutter

But perhaps most of all, I find myself moved by the story of immense perseverance and unrelenting resilience that is expressed by the extraordinary woman behind the brand. To me, Moritz Grossmann’s CEO, Christine Hutter, is one of the most innovative, disruptive and courageous visionaries in modern horology, who has ably resurrected — or one could argue, created — a brand that is poised to absolutely skyrocket in awareness and appreciation.

Born in Eichstätt, Germany, Hutter trained as a watchmaker, then found her way into sales, marketing and distribution, which would all help her become the well-rounded leader she is today. In 1996, she made her way to the town of Glashütte, which is located in the former German Democratic Republic (GDR).

The transformation there, in what was once a somnambulant tiny village about 40 minutes’ drive from Dresden, was incredible. On December 7, 1990, following the reunification of Germany, the genius watch entrepreneur Günter Blümlein and Walter Lange accomplished the seemingly impossible. They resurrected the once perished A. Lange & Söhne.

Suddenly, Glashütte was awash in energy. Mechanical watches were manufactured in Glashütte until the 1980s, even during GDR times, when the Saxon watch manufacturers were nationalized. Thus, the culture of mechanical watchmaking was kept alive and well in this region.

Lange launched the Lange 1 in 1994 as the ref. 101.021. (Image: thekeystone.com)

In 1994, Lange presented its first watches and the statement was clear: Glashütte intended to contend with the greatest entrenched heavyweights of Swiss watchmaking. Hutter, like any young German watchmaker, was deeply moved by the events she saw unfolding. By 1996, she had decamped to Glashütte, her mind brimming with positive ambition. She said, “To be in Glashütte at this time was amazing. We had the feeling that anything was possible. And we took immense pride in bringing our vision of German high watchmaking to the rest of the world. The prevailing feeling was, we had to do our best, to tell the world who we are, and to express the real value of Saxon horology, which we knew to be so beautiful.”

The Genesis of Moritz Grossmann

During her time in Glashütte, Hutter often came across the name Moritz Grossmann. When she went to museums, she searched historical archives and spoke to older watchmakers, and soon she began to understand one clear message: Grossmann was one of the most influential watchmakers in Glashütte’s history. Why? Because in 1878, he founded the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte. This building is still standing today, but it has been converted to the German Watch Museum.

Moritz Grossmann (Image: Foundation “German Watch Museum Glashütte – Nicolas G. Hayek")

In the 19th century, Grossmann helped to define the core values of German watchmaking as well as formalize the signature aesthetic and functional codes of Saxon horology — the flame bluing of screws, the use of chatons to hold rubies in place, the two-third plate, the micrometer screw, the engraving of balance cocks. All of these values and codes coalesced during his time.

Uhrenmuseum © Deutsches Uhrenmuseum Glashütte, Fotograf Holm Helis

Hutter’s passion and interest thus stoked, she decided to become the world’s greatest living expert on Grossmann. Then, she came across something rather remarkable. The name Moritz Grossmann had become dormant. Without a moment’s hesitation, she decided to purchase it, with a vision to create a brand inspired by all his immense contributions to German watchmaking, expressed through fun, modern and mechanically perfect timepieces.

She laughs when she thinks back on the early days, “I suppose it was similar to many young entrepreneurs with limited capital. We started with a PO Box. I worked from my kitchen table. Then we rented a store. Then an office. And finally, we hired our first watchmaker to help me create our first movement and set up our atelier.”

The first Moritz Grossmann Benu 41mm in 18K rose gold

Beyond this, what Hutter really had to do was envision a brand. She started with the names of Egyptian deities. But when it came to naming her first watch, the decision was clear. She explains, “I started with Benu (Bennu) because this is the Egyptian deity linked with the Sun, creation, and most importantly, rebirth — a bird that rises from the ashes like a Phoenix. As I was embarking on the rebirth of the most famous name in German watchmaking, I thought it was perfect. But there was at the same time a lot of pressure, because the watch had to be good.”

The incredible beauty of the Moritz Grossman caliber 100

The Benu model was first launched in 2010, and collectors with a discerning eye were immediately struck by the beauty of the movements, the stunning snailing on the ratchet wheels, the majesty of the decoration on the plate and bridge, and the stunning detail of the hand engraved escape wheel cock.

Hutter had founded Grossmann Uhren GmbH on November 11, 2008, but by 2010, she was embarking on another incredibly daring and brilliant journey, and that was to create one of the most complete in-house manufactures in modern watchmaking.

Moritz Grossmann manufacture

Says Hutter, “That year was an incredible one, because we presented the Benu in a 100-piece limited edition which quickly sold out. But we also laid the first stone in the creation of our manufacture.”

Set on a hill overlooking the town of Glashütte with a view of Lange below it, the creation of the Moritz Grossmann headquarters and manufacture took immense courage. “From the beginning, I wanted to create the infrastructure that would allow us to build movements to a capacity that would make us a significant presence in modern watchmaking, and at a quality that would be the best in the world.”

Today, many of Grossmann’s watches are sold out and the factory is at full capacity with an annual production of less than 400 watches. Hutter admits with a chuckle, “Now it is really a bit of struggle to meet demand. We are effectively sold out for two years. But we are trying to do our best. One thing we will definitely not do is compromise on our quality. This is everything to us.”

Moritz Grossmann: The Power of Functional Innovation

It is important to point out now that while Grossmann is reaching a truly impressive level of popularity (though it is my opinion that we are still in the very early stages of the brand’s ascent), both the brand and Hutter have gone through a great deal of challenges and upheavals since it was founded 15 years ago.

Moritz Grossmann Hamatic

Over the last decade and a half, under Hutter’s leadership, Grossmann has expressed a powerful sense of functional innovation. Amongst her accomplishments is the previously mentioned phenomenal automatic winding watch named the Hamatic, which uses a pendulum or hammer-type winding mass. This type of mass dates back to Abraham-Louis Breguet who implemented this type of system in 1780 and dubbed it the “Perpétuelle.” What is wonderful about this system is that it allows you an unencumbered view of how the motion of the mass is transferred into winding energy by the movement’s two click levers.

Moritz Grossmann’s charming Hamatic allows for an open view of the watch’s kinetic beauty

Moritz Grossmann’s charming Hamatic allows for an open view of the watch’s kinetic beauty. Says Jack Forster, global editorial director for The 1916 Company (formerly known as WatchBox), “The question here is not whether this is more or less efficient than a rotor. What it shows is that Moritz Grossmann is deeply rooted in the history of mechanical watchmaking and is able to take a different pathway to automatic winding that is uniquely charming.”

Moritz Grossmann Tourbillon Skylife in white gold

Moritz Grossmann and Hutter also created a stop seconds tourbillon that provides one of the most esoterically innovative solutions to arresting the balance wheel that I’ve ever heard of. She explains, “In most stop seconds tourbillons, a lever comes and stops the balance. But the pillars of the tourbillon can block the lever. Our solution was to create a miniature brush. When it contacts a pillar, it splits apart and still contacts the balance to stop it. This brush is made from human hair and can be customized with hair from your loved one or yourself.”

Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Steel with Grand Feu Enamel Dial

I started to become truly intrigued by Grossmann in 2018, when Hutter launched the Benu 37, a 37mm in diameter watch that I found to be truly marvelous. The size was perfect. The heat-treated purple hands were intriguing. And, in particular, the movement — the three-fifth plate, hand decorated German silver masterpiece named the MG 102.1 — was magnificent. Our first collaboration together was based on the Benu 37 but with a dial inspired by a stunning pocket watch from the brand’s past.

The Moritz Grossmann Autum “Hommage” paired with an original 1872 Moritz Grossmann pocket watch that was auctioned by Christie’s was the spark for our first collaboration

In 2018, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand, Christine Hutter curated an amazing collection of vintage Moritz Grossmann watches that she paired with timepieces from its modern-day collection to be auctioned off by Christie’s. Amongst the auction lots was a very interesting and unique 37mm by 9.2mm slim Atum Hommage wristwatch that was paired with a pocket watch with movement number 6126 made by Moritz Grossmann in 1872.

Inspired by a stunning 19th century pocket watch, Revolution’s first collaboration with Moritz Grossmann was the sold-out Benu 37 Grand Feu Enamel Dial

To me, this wristwatch featured one of the most stunning dials ever. The elegance of the ultra slim Roman numerals surrounded by the delicately printed chemin-de-fer minute indicator, and contrasted by the four diamond-shaped markers at the cardinal points, was wonderful. It was the most perfect example of Zen reductionist tranquility we’d seen in recent years. But this hand fired enamel dial watch was only created in this one unique execution. Or so I thought, until I had the opportunity to speak to Christine Hutter on her visit to Singapore in 2019.

Remarking on the majesty of this watch, she asked if we might consider collaborating on a version of the timepiece together. Of course, we were humbled and delighted to acquiesce. She pointed out that the Benu Heritage 37mm case, which was launched in April 2018, was exactly the same shape and dimension and could offer us the perfect platform to start.

We soon returned to her very original idea when she founded Moritz Grossmann, which was to forge a link between Saxon watchmaking’s past and future. From the past, we selected a grand feu enamel dial similar to the pièce unique auctioned by Christie’s. But instead of white, we decided on an ivory-colored dial with black Roman indexes, contrasted by a soft seductive deep purple chemin de fer, which perfectly complemented the signature flamed purple color on her lovely spade shaped hands.

On the wrist, the Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Steel with Grand Feu Enamel Dial for Revolution & The Rake

To perfectly express the idea of ultimate horological tranquility, we decided to omit the seconds hand. This would, after all, be the watch of a flaneur or a boulevardier, an individual for whom time is a luxury, and it would simply not do to allow the banal encroachment of a small seconds indicator. Thus was born, in 2020, the Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Steel with Grand Feu Enamel Dial for Revolution and The Rake.

Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver”

Moritz Grossmann’s two collaborations with Grail Watch, namely the Benu 37 “Silver Bullet” and, the watch that we are launching now, the Benu 37 “German Silver,” came about during my trip to Grossmann’s manufacture in Glashütte. There, inside a wonderfully sunlit room, I noticed a few pièce unique watches made for clients featuring dials created by Kari Voutilainen and his dial factory, Comblémine.

Guilloché à main, a special material that transforms in color over time

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I’ve always loved guilloché à main or, as the English call it, engine-turned dials. It is my opinion that the most ravishing in the world are made by Kari at his factory where he has one of the greatest collections of vintage rose engine machines. When asked what our next Benu 37 could look like, I proposed something that was as clean and Zen reductionist as the Grand Feu Enamel Dial watch, but using different dial materials. For the Benu 37 “Silver Bullet,” we would create a dial from a massive piece of sterling silver. But for the second watch, I proposed a very special material that transforms in color over time — German silver. The idea reminded me of a conversation I once had with Aurel Bacs from Phillips Watches who told me, “The beauty of vintage watches is that they all started as a uniform product, but time and the beautiful effect of age results in each timepiece becoming totally unique.”

German silver takes on a warm gold hue as it develops patina, reflecting the time spent with its wearer

I loved the idea of time transforming what was created as part of a series into an entity that is utterly singular. But I thought to myself, wouldn’t it be even better if the customer could be the person that brings about this aging process himself or herself? It was when I was looking at some older examples of Moritz Grossmann’s watches and marveling at the gorgeous golden patina that German silver adopts with time that the moment of inspiration hit.

The gorgeous manual winding caliber 102.1

To me, watches are the most wonderful objects; they require no power to run and serve you flawlessly with the energy you give by winding or wearing them. Because of this unique nature, I feel that watches enter into a symbiotic and mutually beneficent relationship with their wearer that no other object is able to achieve. It is a remarkably intimate and beautiful relationship.

Wrist elegance captured in time

Then I thought, well, how great it would be if each passing moment, day, month and year transforms the watch on your wrist into one that only you will have. And so our Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 “German Silver” is just that — a watch that is the chronicle of your life.

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver” is available to the public for purchase here on 31 January 2024, 7pm SGT / 12pm CET / 6am EST. Available in a limited edition of twenty pieces, it is priced at USD 35,300 each. For enquiries, email shop@grailwatch.com.

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver”

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Tech Specs

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel “German Silver”

Movement: Manual winding caliber 102.1; 48-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Dial: Guilloché à main on German silver; applied hour markers and Breguet numerals
Case: 37mm; Stainless Steel
Strap: Kudu leather strap, with an additional hand-stitched Taupe Epsom leather strap custom made with purple stitches, by Delugs
Price: USD 35,300
Availability: Limited edition of 20 pieces

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Up Close With Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

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Jun 14, 2023 11 minutes

Moritz Grossmann

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FROM THE SHOP

Moritz Grossmann

Limited Edition

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

$35,300.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding caliber 102.1; 48-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case	37mm; Stainless Steel
Dial	Guilloché à main on German silver; applied hour markers and Breguet numerals
Strap	Kudu leather strap, with an additional hand-stitched Taupe Epsom leather strap custom made with purple stitches, by Delugs
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 20 pieces

The post Grail Watch 9.1 Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’ appeared first on Revolution Watch.

LVMH Watch Week 2024: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription and the gérald genta Mickey Mouse Repeater

Wei Koh — Tue, 30 Jan 2024 05:32:39 +0000

LVMH Watch Week 2024: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription and the gérald genta Mickey Mouse Repeater

Made by the world’s biggest luxury brand, but with all the emotional richness of the greatest independent watchmakers.

Feature

By Wei Koh

Jan 30, 2024

They might just be two watches, but what they symbolize is something extremely powerful. Together, the Daniel Roth Souscription Tourbillon presented for the first time in the metal, and the gérald genta Only Watch Mickey Mouse Jump Hour, Retrograde Minute, Minute Repeater clearly articulate Louis Vuitton’s unabashed mission statement that it intends to be a force of reckoning in the world of haute horlogerie or high watchmaking. Says Jean Arnault, “The significance of Daniel Roth and gérald genta is that allows us to bring into Louis Vuitton the highest level of technical watchmaking, hand finishing and metiers d’art. Neither of these will ever be volume brands but they allow us to strive for the highest level of excellence.”

With this objective set, Arnault massively re-energized two of the greatest living watchmakers today Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas, the co-founders of La Fabrique du Temps and high complications specialists that worked at Patek Philippe, gérald genta, with the legendary Pierre Michel Golay, and also Franck Muller.

Says Barbasini, “Honestly before Jean arrived, I was on the cusp of retiring because there was this disconnect between the high complications we were making such as the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automatons and the entry level quartz watches. It was too confusing. But when Jean Arnault came, it changed everything. He gave us all a new sense of energy and the desire to take everything we’ve learned over our careers to express the highest level of watchmaking we could.” Says Michel Navas, “Jean is really a once in a generation leader. Someone who is immensely passionate, who has real watchmaking education, great taste, and is at the same time a person that inspires other through his kindness.”

Daniel Roth’s first tourbillon

Is the new Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription better than the original?

With their mission clearly delineated, the two set out to show the world the level of watchmaking they and Louis Vuitton were capable of. They set their focus on the recreation of one of the most beloved and iconic timepieces. Daniel Roth’s first tourbillon created a series of souscription watches for Asprey’s in 1988, featuring his signature double ellipse case and his elegant tourbillon with its signature three-sided second hand fixed to the cage. As the watch was brought to me by my friend Louis Westphalen who has now joined Daniel Roth and gérald genta, I was in the midst of asking my smart-ass journalist question: “What distinguishes the new watch from the original or is it just a simple facsimile of the past…” Then I stopped mid sentence. Because the new La Fabrique du Temps watch laid before me utterly took my breath away with its visual richness. “Damn that is spectacular,” I unconsciously muttered to myself.

Orignal Gouache from Daniel Roth

To begin with, the watch is faithful in diameter to the original — but a full 2mm thinner. Importantly, the raised seam that ran the length of the case used to split the watch in the following way: The bezel would occupy one third of the case’s thickness while the remaining mid and back case would occupy two thirds of the volume. Says Arnault, “In some ways this felt unbalanced to us and so we worked so that this seam would perfectly bisect the case creating a greater visual harmony. In addition, we reworked the lugs to create a greater contour so that the watch fit the wrist better.” After Arnault and team had done so, they showed this to Daniel Roth who laughed, and said that these lugs were even better than the original, which are straighter, but that was what his casemaker was capable of at the time of production.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Compare the dial on the original watch with the new watch’s dial and you will similarly see a world of difference. There is a much greater sense of three dimensionality in the stunning guilloche à main pattern. The dials of the 20 souscription watches are all made by Kari Voutilainen, not at his dial making workshop Comblémine, but rather, his atelier at Chapeau de Napoléon in the Jura where his best craftsmen and vintage engine turning machines reside. Even more impressive is that La Fabrique du Temps has taken it upon itself to start producing its very own guilloche à main dials, and have sourced the machines and the artisans to create those dials for the production pieces to follow. Another small detail is the use of blue ink rather than black which produces a more dynamic effect on the dial.

Then there is the movement of the watch. Says Arnault, “In the context of the late 80’s Roth explained to us that he was limited in his choices for the movement and ended up using a Lemania calibre as his base. As such what you actually have in the double ellipse case is a round movement. Which you can’t tell because the timepieces have closed case backs.” Says Barbasini, “Jean, Michel and I were adamant that we would make a double ellipse shaped movement that perfectly matched the shape of the case.” To which Arnault adds, “In the production models, we will have a sapphire case back so that you can see this movement.” And what a movement it is. A chalice or repository for all of Barbasini and Navas’ know-how.

Barbasini elaborates, “The countersinks for every screw are concave and black polished. The flat bladed click for the barrel is similarly black polished. We wanted to push the level of hand finishing to the extreme.” Says Navas, “This is not a show off movement. It has a lot of very discrete handmade elements that not everyone will notice. But we wanted our colleagues and other watchmakers to look at it and say ‘Wow, respect. This is really well done. La Fabrique du Temps is serious about its watchmaking.’” But it is the front of the watch and specifically the tourbillon that is the star of the show.

Somehow even in comparison to the original, the tourbillon, bridge and cage seem more luminous, reflecting more light. The pillars of the bridge are also concave and black polished. This is incredibly hard to do but Michel and Enrico insisted on it because it brings something visually. Arnault points out that Barbasini and Navas didn’t want the screws for fixing the dial to the base plate to mar the beauty of the movement, so they devised a system for fixing the dial at the perimeter of the calibre instead so the screws would be hidden by the case.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

On the wrist, the Daniel Roth has the feeling of being something very special. Not a watch that shouts but a watch that is perfectly executed in every way. And though it was made by the world’s biggest luxury brand, it has all the emotional richness of the greatest independent watchmakers. You might scoff when I compare it to a Kari Voutilainen or a Rexhep Rexhepi, but I challenge you to try it on and tell me what you think.

Donald Duck and Mickey Mouse, as seen in Miami.

Return of the Mickey Mouse watch by gérald genta

“Dude am I seeing things or did you just make a cloisonné enamel Mickey Mouse watch?” I asked Arnault. He replied, “Of course we did. And that dial is made in-house in La Fabrique du Temps.” But I should point out that everything is enamel. The retrograde arm that jumps back to zero to indicate the minute, the underlying jump hour wheel… it is all enamel and incredibly well executed. It was at this point that Arnault handed me the first production watch featuring the same minute repeating jump hour retrograde minute movement found in the Only Watch timepiece featuring Donald Duck playing golf — a one-off prototype. “Look at Donald’s cap,” he said. The famous Disney character was wearing a checked gold cap and it had been rendered so that every tiny square in the checked patter was delineated using ultra-thin gold cloisonné wires before being filled with enamel.

What is important to understand is that both Barbasini and Navas spend many years at gérald genta working together with the famous Pierre Michel Golay on the most complicated watches in the world such as the first grande et petite sonnerie. Says Arnault, “No living watchmakers today understand the creative and technical spirit of the brand better than Michel and Enrico. Because they were a big part in the creation of Genta in its golden age.”

As such, it was relatively straightforward for the two watchmakers to create an all new calibre but reflecting the spirit of Genta. Says Arnault, “Even the shape of the movement’s bridges echoes the shapes that Genta loved. For example, we used an octagon to frame the repeater’s flying regulator.” Indeed, the obsessiveness around the creation of these timepieces was so intense that Barbasini who is a golfer adjusted the retrograde action of Donald’s arm to more accurately depict an actual golf swing. Activate the repeater using the crown on the left side of the case and the watch strikes out a deep but very clear note for the hours, two notes for the quarters and a high note for the minutes with impeccable timing.

References to the octagon can be found in the design of the new Gerald Genta calibre.

Finally, both watches though expensive, represent what I consider to be strong value propositions relative to what they offer. The Daniel Roth in particular at 140 thousand Swiss Francs is spectacular value for a watch finished to that level. And the gérald genta repeater with its stunning cloisonné enamel dial and added dial side complication offers more than fair value. When I asked about this, Arnault explained, “There are a lot of brands that charge what I consider to be irrationally high prices we wanted everything we do to connected to authenticity and real value.” With these two watches, Arnault and La Fabrique du Temps have just earned their way into the rarified milieu of true high watchmaking and I for one can’t wait to see what comes next.

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FROM THE SHOP

Parmigiani Fleurier

Limited Edition

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor "Purple Reign" x Revolution

$26,400.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber PF703; 48-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, Minutes, Date
Case	40mm; polished and satin-finished stainless steel with platinum knurled bezel; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Purple; rhodium-plated applied hour markers
Strap	Polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet
Limited Edition	Limited and numbered edition of 50 pieces

The post LVMH Watch Week 2024: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription and the gérald genta Mickey Mouse Repeater appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The 1916 Company is here to transform the watch industry with market excellence

Wei Koh — Sat, 23 Dec 2023 14:00:15 +0000

The 1916 Company is here to transform the watch industry with market excellence

In the pre-owned luxury watch sector, a mega-merger has taken place. The 1916 Company leverages the strengths and legacies of WatchBox, the largest pre-owned platform, combined with the expertise of its three independent retailers — Govberg, Hyde Park, and Radcliffe Jewelers.

Feature

By Wei Koh

Dec 23, 2023

In the six years since they’ve founded WatchBox, now renamed and rebranded as The 1916 Company, Justin Reis and his partners Danny Govberg and Tay Liam Wee have absolutely revolutionized the watch industry. Yes, I know, in the words of John Travolta in Pulp Fiction, “That’s a bold statement.” But as far as I’m concerned, it’s also an irrefutable one.

They did it first by transforming the pre-owned watch business from a purely transactional model, to one where they curated the very best in watchmaking. They used their massive war chest to amass an impressive collection of masterpieces, including the creations of brilliant individuals such as the skilled François-Paul Journe to present to their customers.

I remember visiting Danny Govberg seven years ago where he walked me into a vault that was a veritable Aladdin’s cave of horological finery, and him saying, “I’m going to make every guy who loves watchmaking fall in love with Journe.”

WatchBox founders Tay Liam Wee (left), Justin Reis (middle), Danny Govberg (right)

And he did just that by bringing on board excellent journalists, first Tim Mosso and then Jack Forster. They, together with their equally passionate and watch-nerded-out sales force comprising Mike Manjos, George Mayer and Brian Govberg, began to evangelize about the merits of independent watch brands such as Journe (being among the first to raise the level of appreciation of French fine watchmaking) and others, spreading the gospel about watches that had real merit, unbeatable authenticity and incredible beauty.

Says Jack Forster, “You have to admit that WatchBox played a fundamental role in the explosion in popularity of the independent watch scene during the COVID pandemic. And once they explained to the world how amazing these watches were, there was no going back.”

Even today when the market is down, it’s the independents that have proven to be the most resilient and recession proof.

The 1916 Co.: Rise of the Colossus

Next, WatchBox made its first daring move into the primary market, bought the spectacular but still relatively unknown watch brand De Bethune, and proceeded to spread the word about its excellence. They funded a documentary film on it named Seeking Perfect, and got me to be in it.

They produced a stunning coffee-table book with Assouline. They took the brand’s founder, Denis Flageollet, on road shows.

Soon, De Bethune would be found on the wrists of the coolest pop culture figures like NBA’s Kyle Kuzma, who rocked his pièce unique DB28 with blue dial and baby blue Jean Rousseau alligator strap at Michael Rubin’s White Party. A De Bethune could be found strapped to the forearm of professional tennis player Tommy Paul as he did battle with the likes of world number 1 Carlos Alcaraz.

Music producer Swizz Beatz became a collaborator on not one but two limited editions and bought a watch for his wife Alicia Keys at a star-studded party celebrating WatchBox’s stunning new loft space in the same building at L.A.’s Soho House.

Alicia Keys (left) and Swiss Beatz (right). Source: @de_bethune

Incidentally, this was just one of 11 mind-blowing spaces WatchBox has built around the world as hangouts for their clientele, which soon included some of the savviest collectors around, including one of independent watchmaking’s biggest champions Michael “Shani” Shanlikian, and car and watch expert Drew Coblitz. The familial feeling at a WatchBox event is phenomenal.

As the tequila flows, laughter erupts in abundance and friendships are forged. Says Patrik Hoffmann, executive vice president of WatchBox Europe, “A WatchBox event is the best party in the watch community, because they are held in the most beautiful spaces, have the coolest collectors and the very best watches.”

Says the company’s CEO Justin Reis, “Everything we do is centered around the collector and giving them the best experience possible. This is the reason we created major retrospectives on Journe and De Bethune and took these watches around the world.

“It’s the reason we brought on board the best journalists and educators to create content. This is the reason we built our lounge spaces where you can try on some of the rarest watches in the world in privacy, comfort and safety.

“But our objective for these spaces was never sales. It was about creating community and providing a place for the best education and enjoyment.”

Danny Govberg

Says Danny Govberg, “It’s about fun. Watch collecting has to be fun.

“Sure, we have some of the most knowledgeable people in the world in our company like Tim Mosso, Jack Forster and George Mayer. And we even engage with the best journalists outside the company like you.

“But most of all, it’s important that people have a great time at any WatchBox event. They are made to feel like part of our family.”

Justin Reis

Reis adds, “Watches have the power to bring people together. Over the years, we’ve observed our collectors’ desire not only for digital connectivity, but also the rich experiences of physical interaction — they value the bonds formed with our dedicated client advisors and the friendships they’ve made across our community.

“The evolution into The 1916 Company is a natural progression for us, shaped by our clients’ voices and needs. With The 1916 Company, we’re reinforcing the sense of community, rooted in our existing relationships, while eagerly embracing the opportunity to forge new ones. Our vision starts and ends with our customer.”

Champions of the Pre-Owned Program

Over the last three years, WatchBox has charted spectacular growth. The company was valued at over USD 1 billion and their celebrity investors soon included individuals like the one and only Michael Jordan.

The 1916 Company boasts a pre-owned collection valued at over $200 million, with a particular focus on ultra-rare and collectible timepieces, as well as artisanal independent watchmaking. For Reis and his partners, these are bone fide works of art, and they deeply believe in the value of these creations.

The allure of offering collectible watches was the lifeblood of WatchBox, and therefore, for The 1916 Co.

A community member viewing the De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue 'Milky Way'

Ray Dalio, the genius creator of Bridgewater, the world’s biggest hedge fund, likes to call himself a student of history because it always repeats itself. You can see clear evidence that each time we hit a rocky patch, whether it’s the subprime mortgage crisis, the global banking crisis or the COVID pandemic, these brands gain market share.

Following the merger, Reis and Govberg sought to establish themselves as a leading Rolex Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) partner, which in addition to its extant pre-owned curation, would join the league of grail-worthy timepieces from the likes of F.P.Journe, Daniel Roth, H. Moser & Cie, and De Bethune.

The founders set about identifying and acquiring existing Rolex authorized dealers, Hyde Park and Radcliffe Jewelers, on top of their own Govberg Jewelers. Upon the introduction of The 1916 Company, they announced the launch of the Rolex CPO program in partnership with Rolex.

These are watches that come with two-year warranties and certification for authenticity from Rolex itself. The program, which started this year, represents a major historic moment where the world’s biggest and most important watch brand has offered its own secondhand watches for sale.

Says industry expert and co-author of the Morgan Stanley × LuxeConsult watch industry report, Oliver Muller, “The launch of this program had massive implications in that it was clear Rolex wanted to clean up the pre-owned market, combat against fakes, assure quality and performance, and elevate the level of service. It’s a game changer.”

The Govberg Jewelers store in Philadelphia

To celebrate this new beginning, the three founders who were now not just the kings of the secondary market, the owners of De Bethune, the champions of community and culture building, but also one of the top Rolex primary retailers in the United States, decided to rename their company. Says Govberg, “1916 is the date that my grandfather started Govberg Jewelers and so it has a lot of significance to me.”

Radcliffe Jewelers in Newark, New Jersey. Under The 1916 Company, all trades of pre-owned Rolex timepieces are strictly certified by Rolex

Says Reis, “It is also the year that the New York Times announced that the wristwatch had become the primary time-telling device for the modern world. So, we thought this is the perfect name.”

Now, The 1916 Company, which represents the merger of WatchBox, Govberg, Radcliffe and Hyde Park Jewelers, is poised to revolutionize the watch industry yet again. In its network of more than 20 stunning spaces around the world, it provides a unique offer uniting the best in primary, collectible secondary, and culture building.

When asked what else he wants to bring to The 1916 Company, Reis says, “Education. We are really serious about wanting to champion this culture in a real and long-term way. This is born out of the passion we have for this industry and we are willing to invest to offer the very best experience for our clients.”

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MORE FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post The 1916 Company is here to transform the watch industry with market excellence appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Introducing Flying Back to the Future: Furlan Marri Swiss-made Mechanical Flyback Chronographs

Wei Koh — Fri, 01 Dec 2023 14:00:42 +0000

Introducing Flying Back to the Future: Furlan Marri Swiss-made Mechanical Flyback Chronographs

Together with the world’s greatest watch collector Auro Montanari, Furlan Marri launches their first ever Swiss-made mechanical flyback chronographs in a series of three ravishing timepieces, including a special edition for Revolution, priced at CHF 2,750 excluding taxes.

Limited Edition

By Wei Koh

Dec 1, 2023

For the last three years, the world has been swept up in a love affair for one of the hottest microbrands on the planet, Furlan Marri. The Cinderella story of how Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri created their brand during the pandemic through Zoom, which then became a huge critical and commercial success, and in the same year won the Horological Revelation Award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), is now part of contemporary watch mythology. But since the first time I set eyes on Furlan Marri’s Japanese “mechaquartz” powered chronographs, I’ve asked myself one thing: What if this dynamic duo were to apply their unique brand of retro modern design genius to a fully Swiss-made mechanical chronograph?

Well, today I have the answer with not one, but three different stunning timepieces. And even better, this trilogy of time writers took shape with the guidance of one of the world’s greatest watch collectors and the most elegant individual in our community, the inimitable Auro Montanari.

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Rising Stars

Every once in a while, you meet a young person in the watch industry that you know is going to be an important part of the future. For me that person is Andrea Furlan.

Already what he and his partner, the wonderfully affable Hamad Al Marri, have done was unprecedented. They basically overcame the obstacles of the pandemic to conceptualize a watch brand, which went on to an incredible Kickstarter launch that allowed them to self-fund the creation of their eponymous brand. Then, in that same year, because they had perfectly tapped into the zeitgeist of accessible retro modernism better than anyone else, they went on to win the GPHG’s Horological Revelation Prize.

Hamad Al Marri and Andrea Furlan

Anyone that has ever strapped a Furlan Marri chronograph onto their wrist cannot help but smile and be devastatingly charmed by this upstart watch brand, the horological equivalent of the “Little Engine That Could.” Because the design of the watches, their 38mm by 11.3mm in diameter size, led the charge back to classic sizes. Then there was the phenomenal contemporary riff on François Borgel’s chronograph case design made famous by — but not limited to — the iconic Patek Philippe reference 1463. Indeed, one look at Furlan Marri’s close-up image of their “Tasti Tondi” pushers on their Instagram, and I was irrevocably smitten. Finally, the quality-to-price ratio of their watches is the very best in our business.

Andrea is everything you want in a modern watch entrepreneur. He’s profoundly humble and understatedly confident, yet almost shy about his success. He is fiercely intelligent but soft-spoken and relentlessly hardworking. And though he will hate me for saying so, he’s also one of the most brilliant watch designers in our industry.

Auro Montanari

His watches which, when launched, cost a few hundred dollars, have transcended their price position and become the favorite wrist-borne accessories of even the world’s most astute collectors. Furlan Marri’s initial offering was a series of perfectly designed, vintage inflected, undeniably gorgeous yet affordable mechaquartz-driven chronographs boasting amusing sobriquets that one would expect from Quentin Tarantino’s movie characters. These included “Mr Grey,” winner of the GPHG award, “Laccato Nero” and “Tasti Tondi.” The watches simply seduced everyone. Unbeknownst to Furlan, one of the collectors who had developed a penchant for his timepieces was the legendary Auro Montanari, also known by his evocative nom de plume John Goldberger.

Conceptualizing the Watch

I recall two Geneva Watch Days ago seeking out Andrea in IceBergues, a public space rented out to small or independent brands during the major fairs. I asked him one question, “Andrea, would you like to meet Auro Montanari?”

Without hesitation, he replied by carefully placing his watches inside his travel roll and said, “Let’s go.” What you need to understand about Andrea Furlan’s character is that it is conditioned by two things — a relentless pursuit for perfection that enabled him to represent Switzerland at international athletic competitions including the Youth Olympic Games, and a huge respect for the individuals he considers mentors such as Dominique Renaud who, in a wonderfully poetic 360-circle of life, now collaborates with Andrea. As a boy, Furlan waited outside the Basel fair simply to greet industry legend Jean-Claude Biver and show him his drawings. While still a teenager, Andrea interned at Hublot, Chopard and HD3. While in his early 20s, Furlan, already a rising watch designer, moved to China to work as a production consultant. During his time there, he became aware of the high quality production available, which would later allow him to launch his accessibly priced brand. However, he and Hamad both insist on full transparency when it comes to where each component is made and where the watches are assembled.

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By 2021, Furlan was well aware of Auro Montanari’s standing as an educator, collector ne plus ultra and statesman in our industry. As I introduced them to each other, Andrea politely asked if he could take a seat. Auro smiled broadly at him and said with his signature elegant economy of phrase, “I like what you do. I bought two of your watches.” Andrea could not help but smile too. With that, a great and sincere friendship between them began.

At that moment, I had a stroke of inspiration and said, “Gentlemen, would you consider a collaboration project together? What if we could make Furlan Marri’s very first fully mechanical chronographs together?”

Auro replied, “Why not?”

Andrea said, “I need to check with Hamad but I think so — yes.” Later that week, in my Geneva Old Town apartment, the pair, joined by Hamad and I, embarked on our adventure that resulted in the trilogy of watches that you see before you. These are Furlan Marri’s very first Swiss-made mechanical chronographs, and I am absolutely, unequivocally besotted by love for them.

Upping the Design Ante

The first thing you’ll notice about the new Furlan Marri Flyback Chronographs is that they feature an entirely new case shape designed specifically for this project. While the mechaquartz Furlan Marri chronos had stepped bezels, these watches feature a high polished, aggressively concave bezel. The shape of this is echoed in the lovely swooping compound curve of the lugs that race dramatically down to the wrist. Watching Montanari, Furlan and Marri discuss these details was thrilling to behold.

Said Marri, “Good watch design is like good car design. If you look at the master car designers like Pininfarina, you’ll often see this juxtaposition between a smooth organic curve and a sharp straight angle. The dynamic tension between these two creates a sense of velocity and energy to the shape.” This is what we really focused on with this case shape.

It was Montanari that came up with the svelte, curvilinear olive-shaped chronograph pushers used in two out of three of the models. He explained, “These are wonderful and rare styled pushers that no one today is using but [that] were popular with brands such as Breitling and Omega in the 1930s.” The one exception to this is the Revolution exclusive two-tone salmon dial watch, which feature my beloved Tasti Tondi pushers in deference to the very first image I ever saw on Furlan Marri’s Instagram page that made me fall in love with the brand.

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The three different watches each feature different dials. First, there is the aforementioned two-tone salmon and black dial for our Revolution edition that comes with the Tasti Tondi pushers. Then there is a stunning blue dial with gold-colored text and olive-shaped pushers. And finally, a discreetly elegant and very charming taupe dial version with olive-shaped pushers. The salmon dial watch will be sold exclusively by Revolution, while the taupe dial watch will be sold exclusively by Furlan Marri, with us both retailing the blue dial watch. There will also be a small number of box sets of all three watches.

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Throughout the process, Andrea and Hamad pushed themselves to radically elevate the quality of every component, from the case to the dial to the pushers to even the hands. Said Furlan, “We really took this as an opportunity to radically improve our quality. So, for example, instead of stamped hands, we decided to have all our hands CNC machined. This really improved the three-dimensionality, which, of course, made it more expensive to mirror polish them, but the end result was really worth it.”

Swiss-Made Mechanical Caliber AMT5100

The big news, however, is in the engine bay of the watches. Instead of the Seiko V64 mechaquartz movement inside a closed caseback, we now have a Sellita manual wind, column wheel activated flyback chronograph movement, the caliber AMT5100 measuring 30mm by 7mm in thickness.

Andrea said, “I went to Sellita when they were developing this all-new manual wind chronograph movement that would allow us to make a watch that was the classic size we wanted.” The final watch dimensions are 38mm in diameter (46mm lug to lug) by 13.2mm in thickness; these measurements include a domed sapphire crystal on the front of the watch and a sapphire display caseback. For the movement, we opted for Sellita’s highest level of finishing as well as a signature rose gold-plated finish complemented by a blued column wheel. While there is no doubt that Sellita is a purely industrial movement supplier, the finishing lived up even to Montanari’s scrutiny.

The prolific collector and author remarked that it was “not bad,” which I consider to be high praise coming from him. In the end, Andrea, perfectionist that he is, even designed the shape and skeletonized opening for the plate that sits over the chronograph train. He incorporated a micro-engraving of his brand’s slogan, “Crafted with care, designed for details,” on the plate surrounding the column wheel.

Furlan Marri Pièce Unique for Only Watch 2023

To me, this trilogy of mechanical chronographs is only one step in the journey of Furlan Marri as it blazes its inexorable path into its very bright future. One need only look at the incredible pièce unique timepiece for Only Watch that was created by Andrea and Hamad in collaboration with up-and-coming independent watchmaker Julien Tixier, and one of the industry’s greatest technical minds, Dominique Renaud, to understand the ambitions of this small but mighty brand.

The watch in question is not just a perpetual calendar — a complication which automatically compensates for the shifting 30/31-day rhythm of the months and knows that there are 28 days in February except in the leap year and adds it in accordingly. But it is, in fact, a secular perpetual calendar, which knows that the years divisible by 100 are not leap years, and thus it omits the leap day, but the years divided by 400 are leap years, so it adds the leap day back in.

One of the most well-known secular perpetual calendars appeared in none other than Patek Philippe’s incredible caliber 89, created to celebrate the maison’s 150th anniversary. In modern wristwatch history, the secular perpetual calendar has only been successfully implemented by Svend Andersen and Pierre-Michel Golay for Franck Muller’s Aeternitas Mega 4. However, at 39mm by 11.3mm in thickness, the Furlan Marri watch is not just incredibly wearable, but rumor has it that the brand intends to put the piece into production in the near future and make it more accessible than any other watch featuring this complication.

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And that is one of the reasons I am so impressed with Andrea Furlan. I know that he and Hamad Al Marri have a limitless future in front of them. I’d like to think that our project revolving around Furlan Marri’s very first Swiss-made fully mechanical chronographs, made in a series of three stunning watches, will be a nice historical chronicle to the rise of this remarkable brand. I would like to thank the incredible Andrea Furlan, Hamad Al Marri and Auro Montanari for their collaboration. Gentlemen, it has been a pleasure and an honor.

These watches will be available on the Shop from 7 December, at 10PM SGT/ 3PM CET/ 9AM EST. Click here to buy.

FURLAN MARRI × AURO MONTANARI × REVOLUTION FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPHS

Ref: Honey BlueFlyback (Ref. 3199-A); Salmon Flyback (Ref. 3188-A); Taupe Flyback (Ref. 3177-A)

Movement: Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph

Case: 38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m

Dial: Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes

Strap: Italian leather with quick release system

Price: CHF 2,750 excl. taxes

Availability: 270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition

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By Revolution

Up Close with Furlan Marri x Auro Montanari x Revolution Swiss-Made Mechanical Flyback Chronographs

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FEATURED FROM SHOP

Sold Out

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs Box Set

$9,525.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Introducing Flying Back to the Future: Furlan Marri Swiss-made Mechanical Flyback Chronographs appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Introducing the Ralph Lauren × Revolution & The Rake “Snow Beach Bear Watch”

Wei Koh — Mon, 27 Nov 2023 12:00:38 +0000

Introducing the Ralph Lauren × Revolution & The Rake “Snow Beach Bear Watch”

The Ralph Lauren Snow Beach collection and its legendary parka took the hip-hop world by storm in the early ’90s. Our latest collaboration pays tribute to that seismic moment in modern style.

News

By Wei Koh

Nov 27, 2023

In a downtown Brooklyn street in 1993, Raekwon (aka Corey Woods) from the Wu-Tang Clan rocked up to the set of the video shoot for the group’s single “Can It Be All So Simple” wearing a unique and distinctive yellow and blue parka emblazoned with the hot pink words “Snow Beach,” and one of the most seminal moments in hip-hop style was born. The jacket was created in that same year by America’s poet laureate of style, Ralph Lauren, as the central piece to his new vision for urban sportswear inspired by the loose fitting parkas worn by snowboarders.

The collection — with a riotous explosion of primary colors that brought to mind the Color Field work of artists Barnett Newman and Frank Stella — was a revelation. For the first time, athletic wear had descended from the slopes to take center stage on the streets of New York.

Polo Ralph Lauren "Snow Beach" jacket Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang's 1994 rap video for 'Can It All Be So Simple.' (Image: X)

Says The Rake’s editor-in-chief Tom Chamberlin, “Snow Beach brought a whole new generation and demographic to Ralph Lauren with its freshness and youthful energy. It was a wonderful example of how Lauren constantly invented all-new modes of dress.

“Without Snow Beach, we would not have the popularization of athletic wear and streetwear and their dominance of runway styles today.”

Snow Beach exploded in popularity and gained such a cult following that even today vintage parkas from the 1993 collection or the re-edition version of these jackets launched in 2018 go for secondary prices five times their original cost, if you are lucky enough to find one. But more than that, Snow Beach showed the world that there were no limits to style, that what you wear at play or during sports could be equally relevant at a work or even at a sophisticated dinner if you wore it with that signature brand of Ralph Lauren nonchalant cool.

To say I have a slight obsession with Snow Beach and for the seismic moment in modern style it represents would be an understatement. So when an opportunity to team up with Ralph Lauren on our third timepiece collaboration came up, I knew exactly what I wanted — a Snow Beach watch.

But while the idea of emblazoning a timepiece with the Snow Beach logo and colors was highly appealing, Ralph Lauren had an even cooler idea in mind. To celebrate the 30-year anniversary of Snow Beach, what if it was to merge universes with another Ralph Lauren icon, the Polo Bear?

Polo Bear

The roots of Ralph Lauren’s Polo Bear go back to the late 1980s, when his team presented Lauren and his wonderfully effusive and elegant brother Jerry with Steiff teddy bears modeled on them and dressed in outfits made by the Ralph Lauren factories that created their menswear.

Lauren was so charmed by these bears he decided to offer them in a limited series of 200 in 1991. Even before the age of the Internet, buzz about the bears spread through New York like wildfire, with every Ralph Lauren devotee making a beeline for the Rhinelander mansion flagship in Manhattan, where they sold out over the weekend.

Because the bears were made by Steiff, and, like his personal bear, wore clothing (specifically, gray flannel pleated trousers, a woven leather belt, and a blue Oxford button-down shirt), they were limited in supply. Foreseeing the popularity of this new symbol for his brand, Lauren also emblazoned his likeness on clothing, including the iconic Polo Bear sweater, which depicted the Bear wearing an American flag sweater.

This sweater is to this day known as the “Iconic Polo Bear Sweater.” From 1991 to 2001, the Polo Bear enjoyed a decade of sartorial dominance, and everything he graced became the object of cult collectibility.

The Holy Grail among these is the so-called “Never-Ending Bear” sweater, which features the Polo Bear wearing a Polo Bear sweater of the Bear wearing the Polo Bear sweater, and so on. You get it.

The Polo Bear was depicted in everything, including a Western fringe jacket, a beret, striped T-shirt and espadrilles, collegiate preppy clothing under a camel Polo coat, RLX ski gear, and my favorite, a magnificent evening suit replete with monogrammed evening slippers and a martini. To be correct, I should note that the Polo Bear actually has three black-tie ensembles: a classic black, a white dinner jacket with black trousers, and a jaunty Black Watch tartan jacket that he pairs with louche red socks for extra panache.

To borrow from Walt Whitman, the Polo Bear was large. He contained multitudes.

Indeed, his incredible style, which became a catalog of Ralph Lauren’s most iconic looks, demonstrated how infinitely varied yet appealing the Ralph Lauren world was. In each instance the Bear looked cool, beatific, successful and friendly.

And, most importantly, regardless of your age, ethnicity, gender or socioeconomic demographic, he made you smile.

(Image: Ralph Lauren)

In 2001, the partnership with Steiff came to an end, and with it the use of the Polo Bear on Ralph Lauren clothing. But by that time, Polo Bear clothing had taken on a life of its own, particularly in the hip-hop community and most notably with Kanye West, who almost exclusively wore the clothing throughout the launch of his seminal College Dropout album in 2004.

(The cover even featured West depicted as a preppy bear.) By 2013, the demand for all things Polo Bear inspired his return to the Ralph Lauren visual lexicon, where he remains more popular than ever.

Indeed, the Polo Bear collaborations, with brands such as Palace Skateboards, have become some of the most sought-after and desirable objects around. The Palace × Ralph Lauren Skate Polo Bear sweater (I had two of these, and gave one to the editor of this magazine and the other to our CEO) almost caused the Internet to explode upon launch, and now commands a massive premium on the secondary market, if you can find one.

Snow Beach Bear

With a love for both the Snow Beach collection and the Polo Bear, it seemed only natural that our conversation with Ralph Lauren steered toward the ultimate “what if?”. What if we were to make a Snow Beach Bear watch, where the legendary Polo Bear in his triumphant sartorial style would be wearing the iconic Snow Beach parka while catching air (yes, that’s a little wink to the Palace Polo Bear sweater) on the dial of our watch?

To complement the electric blue background, we even created a Snow Beach NATO-style strap! The result is one of the coolest collaborations Revolution and The Rake have ever created and we would like to thank Ralph Lauren for the honor of this project.

As you might know, The Rake recently celebrated its 15th anniversary and we could think of no better way to celebrate than with this watch.

But that’s not all. In the process of our conversation with Ralph Lauren, we began to discuss another “what if?”.

What if we could package the watch with the ultimate sports accessory, a pair of wraparound blue mirrored, high performance sunglasses that had just the right elements to make them elegant enough to be worn on the streets as well? We selected one of Ralph Lauren’s signature frame shapes in elegant tortoiseshell and then added high performance nose pieces to them so they would always stay in place even when worn jogging or bicycling.

Says Chamberlin, “These small but important details make these glasses incredibly adaptable.” We then added the signature Snow Beach arms and even threw in a super cool double-sided Snow Beach sports strap so you can wear the glasses around your neck.

The watch and glasses will come together in a special Snow Beach presentation box replete with stickers for you to decorate your board, luggage or laptop. Shop the Ralph Lauren × Revolution & The Rake “Snow Beach Bear Watch” here.

Tech Specs

Ralph Lauren × Revolution & The Rake “Snow Beach Bear Watch”

Movement: Self-winding Sellita-based caliber RL200; 38-hour power reserve

Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds

Case: 42mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 50m

Dial: Lacquered electric blue with chemin de fer minute track; black Arabic numerals

Strap: Snow Beach NATO-style fabric; stainless steel pin buckle

Price: USD 1,850 excl. taxes

Availability: Limited edition of 300 pieces, presented in a Snow Beach box with blue mirrored, high performance sunglasses, double-sided Snow Beach sports strap, and stickers

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FROM THE ARTICLE

Ralph Lauren

Limited Edition

Ralph Lauren x Revolution x The Rake Snow Beach Bear Watch

$1,850.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Automatic Swiss movement, made by Sellita
Functions	Hours, minutes, central second, crown at 2 o’clock
Case	Stainless steel, polished
Dial	Lacquered Electric Blue
Strap	The watch will come on a fabric SNOW BEACH nylon strap
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 300 pieces

The post Introducing the Ralph Lauren × Revolution & The Rake “Snow Beach Bear Watch” appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Wei Koh, Author at Revolution Watch

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