Review Archives - Revolution Watch

A Closer Look: Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Cheryl Chia — Fri, 09 Feb 2024 10:00:07 +0000

A Closer Look: Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Stealth yet striking, the latest Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic is a versatile piece both in dimensions and design, with a high build quality and proprietary movement to match.

News

By Cheryl Chia

Feb 9, 2024

The BR 03 Cyber Ceramic launched recently makes for an interesting arc of development from the BR 01 Cyber Skull – a futuristic timepiece that falls within the broader category of artistic and cultural expressions in horological history known as memento mori, poignant reminders of mortality. Retaining the angular, faceted case, the Cyber Ceramic boasts more compact dimensions, measuring 42mm by 43.7mm compared to the Skull’s imposing 45mm by 46.7mm size.

But more than that, while the Cyber Skull features a movement with its base plate and bridges forming the shape of a skull and crossbones, the Cyber Ceramic adopts a subtler approach, with a gentler, more approachable architecture that hints at the skull motif without overtly embracing it. The result is something far more versatile, with the capacity, we think, to reach a wider audience. While design-led watches have been a recurring focus at Bell & Ross in recent times, it makes for an interesting subcategory where mechanics are put directly at the service of aesthetics, recalling the high-concept watchmaking of the early aughts.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic with its base plate and bridges forming the outline of crossbones (Image: Revolution©)

From professional instruments to high design watches

Over the past nearly three decades, Bell & Ross has undergone quite a remarkable and considered evolution. The brand’s journey began in stark black and white, adhering strictly to military specifications. Produced by Sinn, the initial watches were an exercise in rugged practicality and legibility, designed as tools for professionals engaged in high-performance endeavors.

A decade later, Chanel acquired a minority stake in the brand, prompting the shift of production to Switzerland. From 2005 onward, Bell & Ross introduced its now iconic BR square watches, drawing direct inspiration from the cockpit dashboards of military aircraft. Over the next decade, the BR 01 gave rise to the bigger, bolder BR-X, which served as a canvas for forward designs and complications.

The iconic BR 01

In 2019, the BR 05 line emerged, comprising steel sports watches with integrated bracelets, inspired by the brand’s signature circle-within-a-square case design. The collection’s success led to the development of the BR-X5 range, featuring highly advanced movements produced by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer now owned by Tudor and Chanel.

Bell & Ross BR 05 (Image: Revolution©)

All this while, since 2009, Bell & Ross has consistently produced skull-themed watches that grew in sophistication in tandem with the brand’s technological and mechanical ambitions. Initially, the skull-and-crossbones motif adorned the case and dial design, later extending its presence into the movement itself with creations like the Laughing Skull, which not only incorporated a form movement but also an automaton where the skull’s jaw actually moves when the watch is wound.

BR 01 Laughing Skull Diamonds

The BR 01 Cyber Skull was launched in 2021 and with it, the debut of a boldly modern polygonal, faceted case and movement, described by the brand as taking inspiration from the sharp-edged fuselages of stealth aircraft. The facets not only lend a contemporary edge but also creates somewhat of a pixelated effect, reminiscent of digital imagery, hence its name Cyber.

Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull (©Revolution)

As part of the Cyber collection, the BR 03 Cyber Ceramic also features a faceted case and movement. It’s a monochromatic iteration of the Cyber Rainbow that was submitted to the ill-fated Only Watch auction in 2023. Notably, the movement was constructed to bear a fleeting resemblance to a skull and the overall effect is rather intriguing.

Bare Bones

As with the skull-shaped movement in the Cyber Skull, the movement in the Cyber Ceramic was developed by Concepto, the complication specialist responsible for some of the most exhilarating, high-concept – and costly – watches we have seen in the market in recent years. Dubbed the BR-CAL.383, the movement is self-winding with a black skeletonized main plate and bridges. There is no dial; instead, the indices are printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal. The main plate and bridges form the outline of crossbones supporting in place a wheel train that is rhodium plated, creating a striking contrast and the impression of a skull.

The skeletonised barrel drum and ratchet wheel allows the state of wind to be visually estimated (Image: Revolution©)

While it might not be immediately apparent, its construction has been carefully thought-out to arrive at this effect. At 12 o’clock is the mainspring barrel which offers a 48-hour power reserve. The barrel cover has been skeletonized, along with its drum and ratchet wheel on the reverse, which enables the state of wind to be visually approximated. Notably, the movement is laid out to minimize overlapping and showcase as much of the going train and the other components as possible. Thus, it features an indirect drive minute hand. Rather than being located in the center, the second wheel is located on the left side of the barrel, and an extension wheel drives the motion works. The gear train is arranged on the left side before being taken inwards towards the balance wheel, subtly mimicking the shape of a skull.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic (Image: Revolution©)

Additionally, to achieve a cleaner appearance on the dial side where the components create a skull-like semblance, the majority of the keyless works such as the setting lever, yoke, and spring are positioned on the reverse side of the movement.

The keyless works are located on the back to preserve the subtle effect of a skull and crossbones on the front (Image: Revolution©)

The bridges have a uniform sandblasted finish throughout which creates a textured surface on the facets, dispersing light in different directions without being overly reflective. The hour and minute hands are also black and micro-blasted. They are filled with grey Super-Luminova, enabling them to somewhat blend into the bridges while still being legible.

Compact Facetted Case

Executed in black ceramic, the futuristic case is an interpretation of the classic square BR 03 case. It features a two-part construction, consisting of the case back and bezel. On the wrist, its quality is indisputable. It was manufactured by G&F Châtelain, a renowned case and bracelet maker owned by Chanel. The bezel features eight sides with sloping and faceted surfaces. This is achieved with a diamond grinding process where diamond powder is used as an abrasive material to shape it. The corner facets do well in enhancing the outline of the crossbones on the bridges, creating a strong aesthetic unity between the case and movement.

At 42mm, the watch sits low and compact on the wrist because there are effectively no lugs extending from beyond the case, and the sloping facets also make it feel less broad.

The radically redesigned case with integrated lugs (Image: Revolution©)

The watch has an air of effortlessness but is so much more in execution and effect. While it is one of the pricier time-only watches from Bell & Ross, it is reasonably priced given the quality of the case and movement and is ultimately one of those watches with the capacity to offer far more than you initially anticipated.

Tech Specs

Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Movement: Self-winding calibre BR-CAL.383; 48-hour power reserve; 4Hz (28,800vph)
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: Black ceramic; 42mm by 43.7mm; water-resistant up to 30m
Strap: Black rubber with black PVD pin steel buckle
Price: EUR 13,600, or SGD 18,800
Availability: Limited to 500 pieces

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post A Closer Look: Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The Technical Evolution of the Piaget Polo

Cheryl Chia — Wed, 07 Feb 2024 14:40:09 +0000

The Technical Evolution of the Piaget Polo

As the Piaget Polo makes a comeback in all its golden gadrooned glory, we look at how its movement has evolved from the original 7P quartz to the self-winding ultra-thin caliber 1200P today.

News

By Cheryl Chia

Feb 7, 2024

Although the ‘70s is often recalled as the period when Swiss watchmaking had a near-death experience due to the rise of low-cost quartz watches, it was also one of the most fascinating eras in watch design. As rates of production rocketed on the other side of the world, the industry responded by introducing several models that redefined watches as stylish accessories. The first watch that ignited this shift was the Royal Oak of 1972, followed by the Nautilus four years later. Other notable entries included the lavish all-gold Vacheron 222 in 1977 and the first Cartier Santos with an integrated bracelet in 1978. However, as the ‘80s got underway, there was a watch that marked an entirely new expression that arguably represented the ultimate evolution of the genre – the Piaget Polo.

Here was a watch that was an outright manifestation of extravagance. While the Vacheron 222 featured a brass dial, the dial of the Polo, along with its case and bracelet were made out of 18k gold, melded into one seamless, unbroken design. Yves Piaget, the fourth descendant of the family firm, had designed the watch to meet the demands of American high society for a sports watch. By the turn of the decade, Piaget was deeply associated with the world of Polo, a seemingly perfect blend of luxury and sport that served as the namesake and inspiration for the new watch.

Piaget Polo collection circa 1982

The Piaget Polo emerged as a jewelry sports watch with a remarkably sophisticated design that bore witness to Piaget’s goldsmithing expertise. Its distinction lay in the flawless harmony achieved not only between the case and bracelet but also in the melding of the dial and bezel, where the polished gadroons seamlessly flowed from the dial to the bezel. This effect was all the more pronounced given the absence of numerals, as the hours were delicately marked by discreet dots. On top of that, for the larger, time-only models, there was no visible crown; instead the crown was tucked away on the case back. It was available in men’s and women’s sizes and in round or square cases. While the Polo is primarily celebrated for its design and bracelet making art, its movement demonstrates an intriguing development.

Over time, the model has been adapted to resonate with the prevailing trends of the times, experiencing a revival in 2001, which coincided with a decade that not only witnessed a trend toward larger watches but also proved exceptionally fecund for mechanical innovation, resulting in watches such as the Polo Tourbillon Relatif. The next revival came in 2016 with the Polo S just as steel sports watches became in vogue. However, this article will focus on the full gold original and the modern reissue.

The Ultra-Thin Quartz Calibre

In 1962, more than a decade before the Polo, Piaget became part of the consortium of 21 Swiss manufacturers, collectively known as the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH), that funded the research and development of the first Swiss quartz watch movement. This resulted in the Beta 21 that was brought to market in 1969. It was a large rectangular movement measuring 30.9 by 26.5mm, with a thickness of 6.2 mm—more than three times thicker than Piaget’s mechanical hand-wound 9P caliber. Given Piaget’s preference for slender watchmaking, the Beta 21 was deemed unsuitable. However, as part of the CEH agreement, Piaget briefly utilized the Beta 21 in the rectangular Piaget ref. 14101 model (before the Polo, watch models had no name).

Figure 1. Beta 21

Then, in 1976, Piaget developed its own quartz caliber 7P, which was the world’s flattest quartz movement at the time with a height of just 3.1mm. Its tiny circular shape meant that it could power both round and square watches. The first Polo watches, the men’s 34mm ref. 7661, the midsize 30mm ref. 791, the women’s 27mm ref. 761 as well as the men’s 25mm square version ref. 7131 were all equipped with the 7P but just a year later, it would be succeeded by the calibre 8P, with a height of a mere 1.95mm. The component apart from the battery that takes up considerable space and height in a quartz movement is the stepping motor, which converts electrical pulses generated by the quartz crystal into precise, incremental mechanical movements, driving the hands of the watch. Hence, it had to be modified in the 8P to reduce the overall thickness of the movement.

The 7P (left) and the 8P (right) (Source: Swisswatches Magazine)

Following the debut of the initial time-only Polos, Piaget expanded its collection with the introduction of the Polo Date 32mm ref. 15561 and 30mm ref. 15791, along with the Polo Day-Date 32mm ref. 15562. These watches continued to be powered by quartz movements.

The Little-known Ultra-Thin Automatic

However, a small number of Polo models in the original run were powered by mechanical automatic movements, easily identifiable by the inclusion of the term “automatic” on their dials.

An automatic Polo 27mm Ref. 561 from the '80s. (Source: Christie's)

Interestingly, rather than using its own legendary micro-rotor calibre 12P invented two decades earlier, Piaget utilized the caliber 25P for the 27mm ref. 561 above. It is uncertain if all automatic models used the same movement. The caliber 25P was derived from the little-known Jean Lassale self-winding calibre 2000, which at a mere 2.08mm high, continues to hold the title of the world’s thinnest full-rotor automatic movement to this day.

Apart from Piaget, Jean Lassale was one of the key players in the realm of ultra-thin watchmaking during the ‘70s. The Lassale Calibre 2000, along with its hand-wound counterpart, the Calibre 1200, measuring an insane 1.2mm in height, were introduced in 1976. Unfortunately, these technical breakthroughs unfolded during the ascent of quartz technology; the company eventually went under and was acquired by Seiko in 1979. The patents, on the other hand, went to Nouvelle Lemania in 1982 who continued to produce the calibers 1200 and 2000, initially exclusively for Piaget and later for several other brands, including Vacheron Constantin and Cartier, as the Lemania calibre 1210 and 2010 respectively.

Piaget likely chose the Lassale calibre 2000 over the 12P for the Polo due to its notably smaller dimensions, measuring 20.4mm wide compared to the 28.1mm of the 12P, allowing it to fit into a wide range of smaller cases. The Lassale calibre represented several intriguing and unusual solutions that arguably paved the way for more substantial developments in the field of ultra-thin watchmaking, such as the use of the caseback as the base plate.

To suppress the height of the movement, the wheel train and keyless works are spread out entirely on the horizontal plane in the Lassale caliber. The intermediate winding wheels and crown wheel, traditionally arranged on separate levels on the front and back, are situated on the same plane on the dial side.

The mainspring barrel drives the centre pinion and motion works directly while the going train is laid out in a crescent shape at the edge of the movement, distributed across both the front and back of the base plate. Most notably, the majority of wheels including the crown wheel are inset into the base plate and supported only on one side only. There are no bridges except for balance wheel. Instead, each wheel runs on ball bearings with the races installed in the base plate. The mainspring barrel, for instance, is supported on three ball bearings around its periphery.

However, the lack of stability and delicate nature of their construction ultimately made them unreliable and servicing them often meant swapping out the entire movement. Nonetheless, the concept of reducing the fundamental structure of a movement would become a mainstay in wafer-thin watchmaking.

The Modern Piaget Calibre 1200P

The Polo 79 with a 38mm case

Over two decades have elapsed since the original run of the monochromatic gold Polo watches. During this time, Piaget’s expertise in ultra-thin construction has continued to evolve, having set and broken records for the thinnest production watch across various areas of ultra-thin watchmaking, with only a handful of rivals able to best it. Today, the newly unveiled Polo 79 is powered by the Piaget ultra-thin self-winding calibre 1200P, a proven performer that measures just 2.35mm high. This makes the Polo 79 the first all-gold model to be equipped with an in-house ultra-thin automatic movement.

The 2.35mm calibre 1200P

Slimming automatic winding movements is inherently more challenging, as the design must balance structural integrity, winding efficiency while incorporating smaller and leaner parts. The calibre 1200P was the thinnest ultra-thin automatic movement in production when it was launched in 2010. It was cased in the 43mm Altiplano, which had an overall thickness of 5.25 mm, making it the world’s thinnest watch that same year.

The 1200P is an evolution of the landmark 12P from 1960 with improved performance on various fronts, including frequency and power reserve from 2.75Hz to 3Hz and 40 hours to 44 hours respectively. Like the 12P, it incorporates a micro-rotor at nine o’clock. The advantages of a micro-rotor winding system are evident: the winding mechanism is completely recessed into the movement itself, rather than being above the top plate, which more or less doubles its height. But the challenge lies in having to compensate for the reduced diameter by increasing its weight, so that the moment of inertia remains sufficient. In this case, the rotor is made of 24k gold for greater inertia. At the same time, the rotor runs on a ball-bearing system and thus loss of energy due to friction is virtually zero.

As opposed to the 12P, the 1200P has a hanging barrel, meaning it has no upper bridge and is only supported from beneath. The gear train is laid out vertically next to the offset rotor. Certain wheels were flattened from the traditional 0.2mm to a mere 0.12mm. However, the movement has a classically solid construction, with a large bridge supporting the going the train. In all, the 1200P perhaps represents the practical threshold of ultra-thin watchmaking achievable with traditional materials and construction, all while offering peace of mind.

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FEATURED FROM SHOP

Parmigiani Fleurier

Limited Edition

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor "Purple Reign" x Revolution

$26,400.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber PF703; 48-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, Minutes, Date
Case	40mm; polished and satin-finished stainless steel with platinum knurled bezel; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Purple; rhodium-plated applied hour markers
Strap	Polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet
Limited Edition	Limited and numbered edition of 50 pieces

The post The Technical Evolution of the Piaget Polo appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Robert DeNiro’s Gangster-Glam Watch from ‘Casino’ Is Back in the Piaget Polo 79

Troy Barmore — Mon, 05 Feb 2024 21:56:51 +0000

Robert DeNiro’s Gangster-Glam Watch from ‘Casino’ Is Back in the Piaget Polo 79

The Piaget Polo 79 might just be the coolest sport-chic timepiece of the year, and we’re only one month in.

News

By Troy Barmore

Feb 6, 2024

Piaget has released a reissue of the Polo watch that was a symbol of excess and glam in decades past. Though once viewed as ostentatious and over-the-top, the new Polo 79 hits all the right notes for today’s retro-obsessed and increasingly open-minded watch market. In monochromatic gold, it’s 38mm and thin with a micro-rotor automatic movement—and we’re already giddily calling it one of the standout watches of the year.

In 1979, the culture of watch design was about as diverse, chaotic, and varied as anything seen before or since. Conventions of the past were being questions, challenged, and discarded. The marketability of mechanical movements was waning, quartz was becoming king. Some brands clung to their history, their heritage, their tradition, like life rafts which were slowly leaking. Others abandoned ship, departing for wild and untraditional design codes.

Piaget Polo ’79 (Photo: Zen Love)

Whether desperate times called for desperate measures, or the industry was in the midst of a renaissance – one could make the argument that this was the Golden Age of avant-garde watch design. With that in mind, few other watches demonstrate the duality of the era more completely – with a company acknowledging and respecting their identity while simultaneously pushing the core of who they were – than the Piaget Polo.

In 1972, the age of the luxury sport watch had begun, though it would be a few years before anyone would realize it. But by 1979, the trend was becoming apparent. The jet set of age of the 60’s and 70’s was about to give way to the glamour and excess of the 1980s. It was at this intersectional point, where leisure and sport were mixing in a dynamic and ever increasingly global way, that Yves Piaget saw the need for a new timepiece.

Piaget Polo ’79 (Photo: Zen Love)

The golden sculpture of polished rounded bar and brushed block links that was the Polo spawned multiple additional versions of both round and squared varieties – gem set, high complication, and myriad of watches evolving into the Piaget Polo we know today. The success of the series would come to typify a certain fashion and pop culture iconography, worn by the likes of Ursula Andress, and later, Robert DeNiro in the 1995 film Casino.

Piaget Polo ’79 (Photo: Zen Love)

But that was 45 years ago – and now the cyclical tides of fashion have come around once again. Vintage reprisals, reinterpretations, and integrated sport watches have reach almost limitless levels of popularity and demand. Lines of gender specification for a watch’s intended purchaser are increasingly blurred, and fashion itself arriving at a place of self-expression rather than limited trend. In other words, the perfect moment for the original Piaget Polo’s return.

Piaget Polo ’79 (Photo: Zen Love)

Thus, on the most auspicious occasion of the Maison’s 150th anniversary, Piaget has released the Polo 79. It is without a doubt one of the most faithful re-releases of an iconic timepiece in recent years. Gone is the quartz movement of its original era, and in its place is the ultra-thin and masterfully finished calibre 1200P1, its micro rotor on glorious display through the sapphire caseback.

Piaget Polo ’79 (Photo: Zen Love)

The category of the integrated-bracelet sport watch has been at the front of mind of virtually the entire watch industry for the past few years. Such is its ubiquity that the very definition of the category has been debated. But even in the most popular of integrated bracelet watches, there is still a degree of demarcation between bracelet and head. This is one of the primary areas in which the Piaget Polo 79 now stands apart. The dial itself is, at least visually, a part of the bracelet – and the bracelet is case and dial. While it is early yet in the year, it is entirely likely that the Polo 79 will (judging by our level of excitement, at least) come to be seen as one of the defining watches of 2024.

Piaget Polo 79 Specs

Movement: Piaget 1200P1 automatic

Dimensions: 38mm wide, 7.45mm thick

Materials: 3N yellow gold

Price: $73,000

Learn more at Piaget.com

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Robert DeNiro’s Gangster-Glam Watch from ‘Casino’ Is Back in the Piaget Polo 79 appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Frederique Constant and Its Complicated Dress Watch Would Make Watchmakers of Yore Proud

Revolution — Mon, 05 Feb 2024 08:00:32 +0000

Frederique Constant and Its Complicated Dress Watch Would Make Watchmakers of Yore Proud

Frederique Constant’s 31st in-house movement and the compelling watch that houses it combine complications, strong value and an uncommon attitude toward watchmaking.

Feature

By Revolution

Feb 5, 2024

Founded in 1988, Frederique Constant just celebrated its 35th birthday and no fewer than 30 in-house movements under its belt. To mark the occasion, the Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture watch introduces its 31st and offers the combination of elegance, horological interest and strong value upon which the brand has built its reputation. Here’s why it’s special.

Multiple complications delivered by a Swiss in-house movement would indicate a hefty price tag to anyone that knows anything about watches. But enthusiasts familiar with the contemporary watchmaking landscape will also know Frederique Constant—and the brand’s reputation for making genuine and innovative horology more accessible to many.