Revolution Watch

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

Wei Koh — Thu, 15 Feb 2024 11:00:32 +0000

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

Our latest collaboration with Chopard L.U.C is an 1860 watch executed in a Lucent Steel case combined with an untreated, massive gold guilloché main dial.

Limited Edition

By Wei Koh

Feb 15, 2024

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOrneQ4OiYU

Of all the collaborative projects I’ve made in the past decade, it is this watch, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel with untreated gold guilloché main dial, that I’m proudest of. Why? To begin with, I’ve always considered Chopard L.U.C to be one of the greatest unsung champions of truly authentic watchmaking in Switzerland. And I’ve always held the greatest admiration for the man behind Chopard L.U.C, my dear friend Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, for his unwavering devotion to quality and true functional innovation, embodied by the understated beauty of his watches. I’ve always believed that the 1860, the very first watch created by Scheufele and L.U.C, is one of the greatest men’s dress watches of all time.

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

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Why do I love the Chopard L.U.C 1860 so much? For all the same reasons that I admire Scheufele. First, let’s talk about internal content… The in-house movement in the L.U.C 1860, the caliber 1.96, is to my mind the single greatest achievement in micro-rotor movements ever created. In the context of 1997, the fact that it was the world’s first bidirectional winding micro-rotor movement massively improving winding efficiency, and that it came with both COSC certification and the hallowed Geneva Seal was an absolute revelation. Says my dear friend Nick Foulkes, who is also the jury president of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), “The caliber 1.96 was so good that it was an immediate wake-up call to the entire watch industry, that Chopard L.U.C intended to be counted amongst the very best in high watchmaking and that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele was a man who would not compromise on quality, beauty or performance.” Similarly, Scheufele is a man of tremendous internal content. He is a master of el arte de vivir, a multidimensional connoisseur of everything from horology to art, to wine, to automobiles and even sausage dogs, he could hold a PhD-level dissertation on any of these subjects should he wish. But he is, like his 1860 watch, even more importantly the absolute paradigm of perfect manners and discreet elegance.

The untreated 18k gold dial quietly shimmers, giving off an air of understated elegance

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This brings me to the second reason that I adore the L.U.C 1860 so unabashedly. It is an absolute masterpiece of neoclassical design. So much so that Hodinkee’s impeccably tailored chief brand officer, Eneuri Acosta, showed off his recent acquisition in the United States of this incredible Chopard L.U.C timepiece, making the L.U.C 1860 the dress watch of choice for horology’s cognoscenti, including the brilliant Louis Westphalen. A former journalist and now a marketing and business development executive at LVMH-owned Gérald Genta, he once compared Chopard’s L.U.C 1860 to Philippe Dufour’s iconic Simplicity. He explained that both watches are marvels of elegant design at around 36mm in diameter. Both watches are wonderful expressions of pure Zenreductionist, three-handed dress watch charm. Both watches feature guilloché main dials created by the famous Metalem dial manufacturer, which is now owned by Chopard. As Westphalen noted, the L.U.C “wears like a charm.” He remarked that the watch questions the frontier between vintage and modern watches as it is imbued with a classical charm, much like the Patek Philippe ref. 96.

Karl Friedrich Scheufele

Similarly, Scheufele is in both appearance and character the very embodiment of old-world charm and classic elegance. I feel that if Karl-Friedrich Scheufele didn’t exist, the Swiss watch industry would have had to invent him, because no other individual more completely embodies taste and style with classical understatement, gentility and nonchalance than Scheufele. Perhaps it is only a man who grew up driving a Bentley 8-Liter, a non-supercharged version as W.O. Bentley vastly preferred, or a Mercedes-Benz 300SL Gullwing, and who owns a vineyard that he has pivoted to biodynamism, that could have had the aesthetic sensitivity to create an iconic gentlemen’s dress watch like the L.U.C 1860.

In Steel and Style

So how did this new Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition come about? As always with our collabs, it was through a conversation born out of friendship. Now, I’ve only had the fabled Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) four times in my life and three of those times were because of Scheufele who is, though he would never say it, the Swiss French distributor of the world’s most mythical wine and a man of incredible largess. He and his wife Christine were awarded this role, despite the fact that they had not distributed a wine before, because Aubert de Villaine, the legendary patron of DRC, had been immensely impressed by their discreet elegance after meeting them through Perrine Fenal, the co-director of the DRC and daughter of the equally legendary winemaker Lalou Bize-Leroy.

If I were to make just one statement about the difference between DRC versus anything else I’ve ever tasted, I would simply say, “It keeps going.” Because what you taste on your palate continues to evolve every millisecond in an almost ceaseless journey. As its power begins to dissipate, it also grows evermore delicious and this feeling of ecstasy in retreat from you is both agonizingly seductive and enthrallingly uplifting. The Chopard L.U.C 1860, incidentally, also keeps going. It is a watch that you discover more and more nuances from, the more you wear it. However, unlike wine, its pleasure never dissipates. It is permanent, steadfast and eternal. During one of our incredible wine tastings, I asked Scheufele, “Do you think we could ever make the Chopard L.U.C 1860 in steel?”

The untreated 18k gold guilloché main dial creates a compelling contrast with its Lucent Steel case

He replied, “I’ve always wanted to but never felt the time was right.” He paused for a moment then added, “But now with our shift into Lucent Steel, I think it gives us a reason to do it.” For those of you who don’t know, Lucent Steel is recycled steel that is much more expensive than new steel. It is also harder and brighter. It was first introduced as the case material for Chopard’s Alpine Eagle family in 2019, as part of the brand’s pioneering commitment to ethical luxury. Since the end of 2023, Chopard has been using Lucent Steel in all of its steel watches. The brand has pledged that by 2025, the Lucent Steel components of Chopard’s steel watches will rise to a minimum of 90 percent. He then added one of the best statements I’ve ever heard, saying, “However, I would like to make two changes. The first is to remove the date window. In the context of 1997, a date display was very practical; however, today thanks to the abundance of digital information, it’s not necessary. And I think it [removing the date window] could slightly improve the aesthetics.”

The svelte 36.5mm case stays true to the original L.U.C 1860, while still feeling at home on all wrist sizes today

I closed my eyes and imagined legions of watch devotees around the world standing up and giving Scheufele a standing ovation akin to the one he had received in 2017, when he became the first person to win the top prize at the GPHG twice in a row for two different brands, Chopard and Ferdinand Berthoud. That was precisely the detail that so many L.U.C 1860 lovers had dreamed of for many years! As I was reveling in emotion, he added a second statement that absolutely blew my mind. He said, “Also, I was thinking of adding a hacking seconds function; it has always bothered me that there’s no stop seconds for this watch. It is after all COSC certified. As a true chronometer, it should have this.”

At this point, I had to refrain from throwing myself on the floor and sobbing in delirious happiness. I managed somehow to gather my wits long enough to say to him, “Is it possible to collaborate on a version of this watch?” He replied with five of the most wonderful words I’ve ever heard: “I don’t see why not.”

Best of 2023: Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel with Salmon Dial

OK, for those of you that wonder why I’ve had such immeasurable good fortune to collaborate with Chopard L.U.C and the wonderful Karl-Friedrich Scheufele now on three L.U.C 1860-based watches (the second was the Flying T, a stop seconds tourbillon with the caliber 1.96 as its base), I will just say I am immensely grateful for his kindness and generosity. Our collaboration story on this watch began in 2017 when I approached him with a request that at the time had piqued his curiosity. I asked him if he might consider reviving the L.U.C 1860 in a small limited series of 10 watches.

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

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I must admit my motivation was very personal, as I actually just wanted to own one of these watches myself. But I had also noticed that a younger generation of collectors was just beginning to become interested in smaller sized watches. To me, all the brands that were instrumental in the revival of mechanical watchmaking in the ’90s, Patek Philippe, Breguet, Blancpain, Parmigiani Fleurier and Chopard L.U.C, had one major advantage: they had mechanical movements that could fit smaller cases. Scheufele also thought that it would be nice to reintroduce this wonderful watch to his collection and, with great kindness, he accepted my proposal. Amusingly, we both have to thank his wife, Christine Scheufele, for perhaps the most important decision. We were wondering if we should make the watch slightly larger at 38mm or 39mm in diameter, in accordance with prevailing tastes in 2017. We asked her opinion and she replied, “If you are going to do it, do it correctly. Stay faithful to the original size at 36.5mm.” Once she said it, we both immediately knew she was right.

The untreated 18k gold guilloché main dial creates a compelling contrast with its Lucent Steel case

Upon agreeing to this most recent limited edition, Scheufele asked about the dial. Now this is the thing about the Chopard L.U.C 1860: like the man who created it, there’s so much substance within but it is always combined with a sense of humility and quiet confidence. A case in point is the massive 18K gold dial that undergoes a galvanic treatment in colors like salmon. However, I had always dreamed of unveiling the naked gold material of the dial. With the use of a steel case for the first time, I thought the contrast with a bare, untreated guilloché main would be highly compelling. Fortunately, Scheufele felt the same way and we embarked on the creation of this watch a full three years ago.

Powering the watch is a beautifully finished L.U.C movement based on the legendary caliber 1.96, the world's first bidirectional winding micro-rotor movement

Along the way, it was decided that in order to make financial sense for creating the tooling for a Chopard L.U.C 1860 case in Lucent Steel, the brand would need to launch its own edition. And again because of underlying commercial realities, Chopard would need to present its version of the watch, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel with salmon dial, at Watches and Wonders 2023 before we unveiled our watch, which of course I was completely fine with. This is the watch we see today on the wrists of connoisseurs and industry luminaries like Eneuri Acosta. What was interesting to see was that this time around, the 2023 L.U.C 1860 was one of the biggest hits of the year and has become an intensely sought after unicorn due to its rarity. As Chopard explains, “Because of the guilloché main dial, the production time for this watch is very long. At the moment we have a wait-list that is a few years long, which was not the strategy, but is the reality of the demand of the 1860.”

The L.U.C 96.40-L is based on the original calibre 1.96, the world's first bidirectional winding micro-rotor movement

The magnificent 2023 Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel with salmon dial was selected by multiple journalists, including the excellent Tony Traina, as the best watch of the year. He emphatically states, “The best new watch of 2023 is the Chopard L.U.C 1860 … This is about as close as it gets to the platonic ideal of a modern dressy watch.” Sure, it’s taken a bit longer for our collaboration, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition, to see the light of day but I think the wait has been well worth it. The watch will be made in a limited series of 50 pieces, which will be sold both at Chopard boutiques around the world and on the Revolution platform. All I can say is the watch is absolutely breathtaking to me. The contrast of the wonderful champagne colored gold with the bright white Lucent Steel case is a stunning combination and one that, like the incredible man who created the watch, is the perfect combination of old-world charm with modern dynamism.

Over the last few years, I’ve had the pleasure to work with some incredible people at Chopard on the L.U.C 1860 projects, and I would like to thank all of them as well as the incredible Karl-Friedrich and Christine Scheufele for the pleasure of this collaboration. I would like to also thank Karl-Fritz Scheufele for his passion and input into the watch.

The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition is produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces and priced at USD 25,200 excl. taxes. Available now.

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

Ref: 168860-3002

Movement: Self-winding L.U.C caliber 96.40-L; 65-hour power reserve

Functions: Hours, minutes and small hacking seconds

Case: 36.5mm; Lucent Steel; water resistant to 30m

Dial: 18K gold guilloché; applied faceted hour markers

Strap: Matte calfskin grained leather; Lucent Steel pin buckle

Price: USD 25,200 excl. taxes

Availability: Numbered and limited edition of 50 pieces

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Limited Edition

L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition

$25,200.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding L.U.C caliber 96.40-L; 65-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and small hacking seconds
Case	36.5mm; Lucent Steel; water resistant to 30m
Dial	18K gold guilloché; applied faceted hour markers
Strap	Matte calfskin grained leather; Lucent Steel pin buckle
Limited Edition	Numbered and limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Chopard L.U.C 1860 Revolution Edition appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Code41 Unveils a Classical yet Captivating Moonphase

Lee Sheng — Thu, 15 Feb 2024 09:00:44 +0000

Code41 Unveils a Classical yet Captivating Moonphase

With a uniquely designed dial

News

By Lee Sheng

Feb 15, 2024

Swiss microbrand Code41 has made significant strides since its founding in 2016 by Claudio D’Amor, who previously designed watches for Tag Heuer and Montblanc. It has added complications such as the tourbillon to its lineup, and now, the brand has taken yet another step towards classical watchmaking by introducing a new moon phase to its collection with the latest Moon Inception. Available in three colors – black, blue, or gray – the Moon Inception features an original and interesting twist in its dial design that sets it apart from conventional moonphase watches on the market.

An interesting moonphase

Unlike most of Code41’s watches, the Moon Inception features a pared-back dial design, departing from the brand’s quintessential open-worked dial. However, the brand has demonstrated its ability to craft classic solid dials with excellent design. In fact, the new dial is the highlight of the watch as it easily distinguishes itself from conventional moonphase watches on the market.

While the moon phase display is conventionally executed via a rotating disc, its placement and the surrounding elements make it special. Nestled within a circular frame of stars, the moonphase evokes a view of the universe and adds romanticism to the watch, particularly with the photo-realistic moon disc.

Furthermore, the moonphase circular ring is complemented by another smaller ring framing the date, positioned around 2 o’clock. These two rings form a figure-eight shape, leaving two slices of beautifully curved pie shapes imprinted with the brand and model name.

An intriguing detail to note is that the dial is constructed on multiple levels: the hour and minute track occupy the outermost and highest elevation, followed by the moon and date disc, with the lowest level being the dial itself. These distinct levels are made of different materials and finishes, providing clear boundaries while also adding intricate details and visual depth to captivate the eye.

Modern case design

The case design of the Moon Inception follows the language of Code41, which boasts a barrel or tonneau shape silhouette, thanks to the relatively straight lugs extending from the case. Compared to earlier watches from Code41, the case construction of the Moon Inception is arguably more pared back to suit the classical style of the dial.

However, some may argue that the design still leans a bit too much towards modernity or complexity for the overall theme of the dial. Make no mistake, the construction is commendable, but like many of its microbrand competitors, the case design lacks the maturity, finesse, or timelessness of established brands’ designs.

That said, perhaps more noteworthy than the case is the bracelet, which is relatively uncommon, solid, and handsome.

The case has a diameter of 41.5 mm and a thickness of 11.2 mm, which is reasonable and exactly as thick as the Longines Master Collection Moonphase

Workhorse movement

It is now a more common trend for microbrands to disclose where the parts are sourced; for example, Code41 reveals that the case, dial, and packaging are all manufactured in China. However, the movement within the watch is sourced from Switzerland, or more accurately, from the brand Sellita, the SW288. It has a relatively short power reserve of 41 hours, but it is a reliable movement. The movement comes in two configurations: the basic version, regulated to -7/+7 seconds deviation maximum a day, or for just CHF 300 more, it will be regulated to -4/+6 and accompanied by a COSC certification.

Code41 Moon Inception

Movement: C41-MP (Sellita SW288); automatic; 41 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and moon phase
Case: 41.5 mm x 11.2 mm; steel; water resistant to 100 m
Strap: Rubber strap or steel bracele
Availability: Directly from Code41
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 3,345

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$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Code41 Unveils a Classical yet Captivating Moonphase appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover

Lee Sheng — Wed, 14 Feb 2024 09:00:48 +0000

Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover

Lightweight and lightspeed

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Now a best-selling model for Urwerk, the UR-100 is a no-frills – by Urwerk’s standards – timepiece that features the brand’s signature wandering satellite disc for hours and minutes. In other words, it serves as the base model, attracting many enthusiasts venturing into avant-garde time displays from independent watchmakers.

As a result, the UR-100 has undergone several iterations to cater to the diverse tastes of collectors, offering a range of materials and dial colors. However, the latest iteration introduces something new to the display. The UR-100V Lightspeed incorporates, for the first time in the lineup, a depiction of the time needed for sunlight to reach each planet in the solar system.

Travel time display

The UR-100V Lightspeed remains true to its UR-100 roots, retaining the model’s sleek case design – now made of carbon – which is slimmer compared to typical Urwerk models, ensuring wearability for a variety of wrist sizes. Additionally, it maintains the distinctive wandering hours and minutes feature, comprised of three satellite discs positioned on a carousel for hours, each taking turns to indicate the minutes on an arc scale. This display, while simpler than the brand’s satellite cube, offers an affordable glimpse into Urwerk’s distinctive independent watchmaking style.

However, the latest Lightspeed eliminates the twin astronomical display present in earlier UR-100 models. This feature indicated the distance traveled by Earth during its rotation on its own axis every 20 minutes (about 555 km) and the distance traveled by Earth as it orbits the Sun every 20 minutes (about 35,700 km). This information was conveyed through the movement of the pointer on the wandering hour disc, which rotates around the entire dial. Conveniently, the cutout is sized so that the pointer takes exactly 20 minutes to pass through it.

However, although the twin distance display is being phased out, Urwerk has introduced new astronomical information on the dial. Featured on the Lightspeed model is the time required for light to travel from the sun to each planet in the solar system. This information is determined by calculating the distance between the sun and each planet, taking into account the speed of light, which is approximately 299,792.458 meters per second – the fastest speed achievable in the universe. For instance, it can be determined that, on average, sunlight takes approximately 8.3 minutes to reach Earth.

Since the speed of light is a constant, typically represented by the symbol “c” in physics calculations, the time it takes for sunlight to reach each planet remains consistent, disregarding momentarily the variation in distance between the sun and each planet throughout the orbit cycle. This information is now displayed on the dial, constituting a fixed numerical value rather than a dynamic time display. It neither serves as an indicator nor a complication, suggesting a level of interest that is lower than the initial impression.

Controlled winding rate

Inside the watch is the UR 12.02, which consists of URwerk’s proprietary module and a base movement crafted by Vaucher, departing from earlier movements derived from a Zenith calibre. However, the UR 12.02 maintains the “Windfänger” winding system, featuring a star-shaped wheel at the rotor, which completes six rotations for every rotation of the rotor, thereby controlling the winding speed.

Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed

Movement: UR 12.02; automatic; 48 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 43 x 51.73 x 14.55 mm; carbon and DLC-coated titanium; water resistant to 50 m
Strap: Red rubber strap with folding clasp
Availability: At Urwerk retailers
Limited edition: 50 pieces
Price: CHF 65,000

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TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Introducing Citizen’s New Limited-Edition Attesa Watches

Bhanu Chopra — Tue, 13 Feb 2024 03:11:55 +0000

Introducing Citizen’s New Limited-Edition Attesa Watches

Citizen unveils three new limited-edition Attesa models, a special tribute to the Hakuto-R lunar exploration program, featuring the latest in watch technology.

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In 2019, Citizen became a corporate sponsor of ispace’s Hakuto-R lunar exploration program. This program aims to explore and utilize the resources of the moon through the use of advanced robotic spacecraft technology. The first mission, Mission 1, was successfully launched in December 2022, making ispace the first commercial lander to be sent into space with the goal of landing on the moon. This mission provided valuable insights and data for future lunar landings.

As part of their partnership with ispace, Citizen supplies their proprietary “super titanium” alloy for the landing legs of the lunar lander. Super titanium is a lightweight and durable material that has become a hallmark of Citizen’s watches. The collaboration between Citizen and ispace has opened up new frontiers in both watchmaking and space exploration.

Introducing the Hakuto-R Collaboration Models

This year Citizen presents three new limited-edition Attesa models that pay homage to the Hakuto-R lunar exploration program. These watches combine state-of-the-art technology with exquisite design elements inspired by the moon, the ultimate destination of the Hakuto-R lunar lander. Each of these limited-edition Attesa models is a testament to Citizen’s dedication to incorporating advanced technology into their watches.

Model CC4065-61Y Featuring Mother Of Pearl Dial

The CC4065-61Y model features the first-ever full mother of pearl dial from the Attesa collection. The mother of pearl dial is layered over a colored base, evoking the distinctive patterns found on the moon’s surface. The center links of the bracelet are crafted from recrystallized titanium, adding a touch of lunar magic to the design. This model showcases a range of materials with different textures and properties, perfectly capturing the mysterious nature of moonlight at night.

Equipped with Citizen’s advanced F950 movement, this watch offers a range of functions that make it a grand complication in the world of quartz watches. It features a perpetual calendar, world time, and a 1/20th of a second chronograph, among other impressive features. The F950 movement not only ensures precise timekeeping but also provides the fastest GPS satellite signal reception in the world, allowing the watch to synchronize with time signals in as little as 3 seconds. Retail price is USD 2,995 and limited to 1,900 pieces.

Model BY1008-67L Featuring Moon Phase Complication

The BY1008-67L model is a dynamic piece that pays tribute to the progress of technological innovation achieved by ispace’s Hakuto-R program and Citizen’s own development capabilities. The textured ink on the dial evokes the rugged surface of the moon, capturing its unique patterns and textures. This model features Luna Program, a function that calculates the moon phase for each day based on date signals received from multi-band radio transmitters. The moon phase is then automatically adjusted and displayed on the dial, adding a touch of celestial beauty to the timepiece.

The case and bracelet of the BY1008-67L model are crafted in black DLC, reminiscent of the peaceful hush of the night. The case is made of super titanium coated with “Duratect” DLC, a hard, carbon-based layer that provides scratch resistance and preserves the definition and finish of the watch. Powered by Citizen’s Caliber H874, this timepiece offers precise timekeeping with an accuracy of ±15 seconds per month. Retail price is USD 1,475 and limited to 2,400 pieces.

Model BY1009-64Y Featuring Golden Moon

The BY1009-64Y model is another tribute to the progress of technological innovation and the artistic depiction of the moon. Like its counterpart, the BY1008-67L, it features the textured ink on the dial that evokes the rugged surface of the moon, paying homage to the Hakuto-R program’s pioneering spirit. Equipped with Luna Program, this model also showcases the moon phase function, with a moon phase window that displays the current moon phase in a deep black color printed using pearl ink. The golden moon emerges from the darkness of the star-filled sky, creating a captivating visual display.

The metallic pink accents on the dial of the BY1009-64Y model are inspired by the color of cherry blossoms, adding a touch of elegance to the overall design. The case and bracelet, like the previous model, are crafted in black, symbolizing the tranquility of the night. Powered by Citizen’s Caliber H874, this timepiece offers accurate timekeeping, ensuring that every moment is measured with precision. Retail price is USD 1,475 and limited to 2,100 pieces.

Each watch in this collection encapsulates the spirit and ethos of the Hakuto-R lunar exploration program. They are equipped with Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology, a solar-powered system that harnesses light energy to power the watch, eliminates the need for battery changes and ensures uninterrupted performance. The watches are also equipped with GPS satellite syncing capability, allowing for accurate time synchronization with just a press of a button. The world time function, perpetual calendar, and other features further enhance the functionality and convenience of these timepieces.

Learn more on Citizen’s website here

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Limited Edition

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor "Purple Reign" x Revolution

$26,400.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber PF703; 48-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, Minutes, Date
Case	40mm; polished and satin-finished stainless steel with platinum knurled bezel; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Purple; rhodium-plated applied hour markers
Strap	Polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet
Limited Edition	Limited and numbered edition of 50 pieces

The post Introducing Citizen’s New Limited-Edition Attesa Watches appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Dior’s Masculine Chiffre Rouge Watch Is Back, and It’s Pure Sleekness

Zen Love — Mon, 12 Feb 2024 09:00:07 +0000

Dior’s Masculine Chiffre Rouge Watch Is Back, and It’s Pure Sleekness

Can Dior be the next fashion label to capture watch enthusiasts’ hearts and minds with its reborn Chiffre Rouge collection?

News

By Zen Love

Feb 12, 2024

When you hear the name Dior, what do you think of? Perfume? Handbags? The type of watches that occupy the consciousness and Instagram feeds of so-called #watchnerds might not be the first thing the storied fashion label calls to mind.

Those who recall the early aughties, however, or who have plumbed not-so-vintage watch archives might recall a certain collection which marked the luxury label’s bid for watch enthusiasts’ attention: the Chiffre Rouge. Now 20 years since its introduction, it’s back in sleek black and red across a range of models offering everything from simple time telling and chronograph functionality to gemstones and tourbillons.

(Courtesy of Dior)

Dior has already proven itself in the realm of high- end and even complicated jewelry watches. They have the acumen, the knowhow and the name to compete for a slice of the luxury market and to get your attention. But can they win over persnickety watch collectors anew?

From a fashion designer’s perspective, watches are accessories. Obviously. The design sensibility for which prestigious fashion labels are celebrated can be applied to timepieces as well. Right? Alas, those who specifically collect and study watches are a grumpy bunch and don’t always see it this way. In this sometimes insular subculture, the term “fashion watch” was long something of a dirty word for mass-market, often white-label watches—the antithesis of what many enthusiasts value most. Lines have begun to blur, however, and this attitude seems increasingly antiquated.

(Courtesy of Dior)

Fashion and apparel brands face skepticism in the competitive world of watchmaking, just as even established watch brands do. Success stories such as Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, Hermès and Chanel having broken into serious horology were hard-fought, but they’ve begun to soften collectors’ hard hearts. A famous name doesn’t get you a VIP pass to the watch enthusiast conversation, but the discourse is increasingly open.

A couple facts about Dior, however, should get watch lovers’ attention: it’s been making watches since 1975 and has its own development and manufacturing center in La Chaux- de-Fonds called Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior SA. The brand is serious about watchmaking, but its catalog is predominantly feminine. You can get the likes of fashionable quartz watches with precious metals, as well as those that qualify as haute horlogerie or haute joaillerie to echo the brand’s presence in haute couture.

(Courtesy of Dior)

In 2004, the brand aimed to expand upon that image. The creative director of Dior’s menswear division introduced the Chiffre Rouge as the brand’s first automatic watch and easily its most masculinely conceived to date. Its target audience was clear: watch guys. Made for a number of years, the Chiffre Rouge eventually faded from the brand’s catalog but has now returned for 2024 to celebrate its 20th anniversary.

The Chiffre Rouge is based on sport watch archetypes though it isn’t made for a specific activity. Rather, its posture is sporty and integrated with tool-watch characteristics: an asymmetrical architecture with a protruding 3 o’clock caseside (which Dior calls a “bumper”) is reminiscent of, say, the Omega Speedmaster. Other distinctive features include an uncommonly long crown at 4 o’clock and notches in its fixed bezel between 9 and 12 o’clock, and together they help give the Chiffre Rouge an unmistakable identity.

(Courtesy of Dior)

Those are the features which define the collection’s silhouette and character at a glance, but there are more details to appreciate on closer inspection. The dials and straps feature patterns that echo Dior bags’ quilted texture which it calls “Cannage.” The collection’s mainstays, the time-only and chronograph models, feature a date window with a red, round frame. Emphasizing the date window in this way is unusual. Said to be Mr. Dior’s favorite number, the date wheel’s number eight is the only date to appear in red. Rouge, of course, means “red” in French and is one of the signature colors of Dior. Chiffre, on the other hand, is usually translated as a numeric “digit,” but some have suggested the meaning can also be broader. Interpret the name as you will, but Dior has conceived the new Chiffre Rouge with a serious, all-black color scheme punctuated by touches of striking red. Some models feature elements of rose gold and gemstones to inject even more color.

(Courtesy of Dior)

The time-only and chronograph Chiffre Rouge watches will be the core of the collection, and they seem to distill the concept down to its essential elements. Past models, for example, sometimes had avant-garde features such as “inverted” movements which saw the automatic rotor on the dial side of the watch for a more animated effect. The new models with hearty 100m water resistance ratings, on the other hand, would seem aimed at practical—if stylish— daily urban wear.

Time-only Chiffre Rouge watches are 38mm wide and powered by a version of the Sellita SW300 automatic movement. Modified and rebranded as the Dior CD.002, this is a movement that commands respect among watch enthusiasts and which has been used as the base for a number of well esteemed watches. One of its best qualities is that it’s comparatively thin, which always helps a watch wear more comfortably.

(Courtesy of Dior)

Chronograph and tourbillon models are a bolder 41mm, the former borrowing El Primero 400 movements from Dior’s LVMH sister brand Zenith. The modern version of one of the first automatic chronographs, it’s also widely considered the most successful, famously beating at the uncommonly high rate of 5Hz (4Hz or less is most common) and here modified to form the Dior CD.001. The complicated tourbillon, of course, is often considered the highest expression of watchmaking and Dior flexes its watchmaking prowess with these models made for elite collectors.

(Courtesy of Dior)

With Swiss-made automatic movements, crowd-pleasing sizes, enthusiast-friendly details and the elegant panache that characterizes the brand’s broader product lines, the reborn collection is poised to break into the enthusiast watch conversation. When you hear the name Dior in the future, it just might be the moody, masculine Chiffre Rouge that comes to mind.

Tech Specs

Dior Chiffre Rouge Automatic

Reference: CD.002 automatic
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case: 38mm, steel with black DLC coating
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap: Black rubber

Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph

Reference: CD.001 automatic
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Case: 41mm, steel with black DLC coating
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap: Black rubber

Reference

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$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Dior’s Masculine Chiffre Rouge Watch Is Back, and It’s Pure Sleekness appeared first on Revolution Watch.

A Closer Look: Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Cheryl Chia — Fri, 09 Feb 2024 10:00:07 +0000

A Closer Look: Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Stealth yet striking, the latest Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic is a versatile piece both in dimensions and design, with a high build quality and proprietary movement to match.

News

By Cheryl Chia

Feb 9, 2024

The BR 03 Cyber Ceramic launched recently makes for an interesting arc of development from the BR 01 Cyber Skull – a futuristic timepiece that falls within the broader category of artistic and cultural expressions in horological history known as memento mori, poignant reminders of mortality. Retaining the angular, faceted case, the Cyber Ceramic boasts more compact dimensions, measuring 42mm by 43.7mm compared to the Skull’s imposing 45mm by 46.7mm size.

But more than that, while the Cyber Skull features a movement with its base plate and bridges forming the shape of a skull and crossbones, the Cyber Ceramic adopts a subtler approach, with a gentler, more approachable architecture that hints at the skull motif without overtly embracing it. The result is something far more versatile, with the capacity, we think, to reach a wider audience. While design-led watches have been a recurring focus at Bell & Ross in recent times, it makes for an interesting subcategory where mechanics are put directly at the service of aesthetics, recalling the high-concept watchmaking of the early aughts.

From professional instruments to high design watches

Over the past nearly three decades, Bell & Ross has undergone quite a remarkable and considered evolution. The brand’s journey began in stark black and white, adhering strictly to military specifications. Produced by Sinn, the initial watches were an exercise in rugged practicality and legibility, designed as tools for professionals engaged in high-performance endeavors.

A decade later, Chanel acquired a minority stake in the brand, prompting the shift of production to Switzerland. From 2005 onward, Bell & Ross introduced its now iconic BR square watches, drawing direct inspiration from the cockpit dashboards of military aircraft. Over the next decade, the BR 01 gave rise to the bigger, bolder BR-X, which served as a canvas for forward designs and complications.

The iconic BR 01

In 2019, the BR 05 line emerged, comprising steel sports watches with integrated bracelets, inspired by the brand’s signature circle-within-a-square case design. The collection’s success led to the development of the BR-X5 range, featuring highly advanced movements produced by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer now owned by Tudor and Chanel.

All this while, since 2009, Bell & Ross has consistently produced skull-themed watches that grew in sophistication in tandem with the brand’s technological and mechanical ambitions. Initially, the skull-and-crossbones motif adorned the case and dial design, later extending its presence into the movement itself with creations like the Laughing Skull, which not only incorporated a form movement but also an automaton where the skull’s jaw actually moves when the watch is wound.

BR 01 Laughing Skull Diamonds

The BR 01 Cyber Skull was launched in 2021 and with it, the debut of a boldly modern polygonal, faceted case and movement, described by the brand as taking inspiration from the sharp-edged fuselages of stealth aircraft. The facets not only lend a contemporary edge but also creates somewhat of a pixelated effect, reminiscent of digital imagery, hence its name Cyber.

As part of the Cyber collection, the BR 03 Cyber Ceramic also features a faceted case and movement. It’s a monochromatic iteration of the Cyber Rainbow that was submitted to the ill-fated Only Watch auction in 2023. Notably, the movement was constructed to bear a fleeting resemblance to a skull and the overall effect is rather intriguing.

Bare Bones

As with the skull-shaped movement in the Cyber Skull, the movement in the Cyber Ceramic was developed by Concepto, the complication specialist responsible for some of the most exhilarating, high-concept – and costly – watches we have seen in the market in recent years. Dubbed the BR-CAL.383, the movement is self-winding with a black skeletonized main plate and bridges. There is no dial; instead, the indices are printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal. The main plate and bridges form the outline of crossbones supporting in place a wheel train that is rhodium plated, creating a striking contrast and the impression of a skull.

While it might not be immediately apparent, its construction has been carefully thought-out to arrive at this effect. At 12 o’clock is the mainspring barrel which offers a 48-hour power reserve. The barrel cover has been skeletonized, along with its drum and ratchet wheel on the reverse, which enables the state of wind to be visually approximated. Notably, the movement is laid out to minimize overlapping and showcase as much of the going train and the other components as possible. Thus, it features an indirect drive minute hand. Rather than being located in the center, the second wheel is located on the left side of the barrel, and an extension wheel drives the motion works. The gear train is arranged on the left side before being taken inwards towards the balance wheel, subtly mimicking the shape of a skull.

Additionally, to achieve a cleaner appearance on the dial side where the components create a skull-like semblance, the majority of the keyless works such as the setting lever, yoke, and spring are positioned on the reverse side of the movement.

The keyless works are located on the back to preserve the subtle effect of a skull and crossbones on the front (Image: Revolution©)

The bridges have a uniform sandblasted finish throughout which creates a textured surface on the facets, dispersing light in different directions without being overly reflective. The hour and minute hands are also black and micro-blasted. They are filled with grey Super-Luminova, enabling them to somewhat blend into the bridges while still being legible.

Compact Facetted Case

Executed in black ceramic, the futuristic case is an interpretation of the classic square BR 03 case. It features a two-part construction, consisting of the case back and bezel. On the wrist, its quality is indisputable. It was manufactured by G&F Châtelain, a renowned case and bracelet maker owned by Chanel. The bezel features eight sides with sloping and faceted surfaces. This is achieved with a diamond grinding process where diamond powder is used as an abrasive material to shape it. The corner facets do well in enhancing the outline of the crossbones on the bridges, creating a strong aesthetic unity between the case and movement.

At 42mm, the watch sits low and compact on the wrist because there are effectively no lugs extending from beyond the case, and the sloping facets also make it feel less broad.

The watch has an air of effortlessness but is so much more in execution and effect. While it is one of the pricier time-only watches from Bell & Ross, it is reasonably priced given the quality of the case and movement and is ultimately one of those watches with the capacity to offer far more than you initially anticipated.

Tech Specs

Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Movement: Self-winding calibre BR-CAL.383; 48-hour power reserve; 4Hz (28,800vph)
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: Black ceramic; 42mm by 43.7mm; water-resistant up to 30m
Strap: Black rubber with black PVD pin steel buckle
Price: EUR 13,600, or SGD 18,800
Availability: Limited to 500 pieces

Reference

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$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post A Closer Look: Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic appeared first on Revolution Watch.

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