Lee Sheng, Author at Revolution Watch

Code41 Unveils a Classical yet Captivating Moonphase

Lee Sheng — Thu, 15 Feb 2024 09:00:44 +0000

Code41 Unveils a Classical yet Captivating Moonphase

With a uniquely designed dial

News

Feb 15, 2024

Swiss microbrand Code41 has made significant strides since its founding in 2016 by Claudio D’Amor, who previously designed watches for Tag Heuer and Montblanc. It has added complications such as the tourbillon to its lineup, and now, the brand has taken yet another step towards classical watchmaking by introducing a new moon phase to its collection with the latest Moon Inception. Available in three colors – black, blue, or gray – the Moon Inception features an original and interesting twist in its dial design that sets it apart from conventional moonphase watches on the market.

An interesting moonphase

Unlike most of Code41’s watches, the Moon Inception features a pared-back dial design, departing from the brand’s quintessential open-worked dial. However, the brand has demonstrated its ability to craft classic solid dials with excellent design. In fact, the new dial is the highlight of the watch as it easily distinguishes itself from conventional moonphase watches on the market.

While the moon phase display is conventionally executed via a rotating disc, its placement and the surrounding elements make it special. Nestled within a circular frame of stars, the moonphase evokes a view of the universe and adds romanticism to the watch, particularly with the photo-realistic moon disc.

Furthermore, the moonphase circular ring is complemented by another smaller ring framing the date, positioned around 2 o’clock. These two rings form a figure-eight shape, leaving two slices of beautifully curved pie shapes imprinted with the brand and model name.

An intriguing detail to note is that the dial is constructed on multiple levels: the hour and minute track occupy the outermost and highest elevation, followed by the moon and date disc, with the lowest level being the dial itself. These distinct levels are made of different materials and finishes, providing clear boundaries while also adding intricate details and visual depth to captivate the eye.

Modern case design

The case design of the Moon Inception follows the language of Code41, which boasts a barrel or tonneau shape silhouette, thanks to the relatively straight lugs extending from the case. Compared to earlier watches from Code41, the case construction of the Moon Inception is arguably more pared back to suit the classical style of the dial.

However, some may argue that the design still leans a bit too much towards modernity or complexity for the overall theme of the dial. Make no mistake, the construction is commendable, but like many of its microbrand competitors, the case design lacks the maturity, finesse, or timelessness of established brands’ designs.

That said, perhaps more noteworthy than the case is the bracelet, which is relatively uncommon, solid, and handsome.

The case has a diameter of 41.5 mm and a thickness of 11.2 mm, which is reasonable and exactly as thick as the Longines Master Collection Moonphase

Workhorse movement

It is now a more common trend for microbrands to disclose where the parts are sourced; for example, Code41 reveals that the case, dial, and packaging are all manufactured in China. However, the movement within the watch is sourced from Switzerland, or more accurately, from the brand Sellita, the SW288. It has a relatively short power reserve of 41 hours, but it is a reliable movement. The movement comes in two configurations: the basic version, regulated to -7/+7 seconds deviation maximum a day, or for just CHF 300 more, it will be regulated to -4/+6 and accompanied by a COSC certification.

Code41 Moon Inception

Movement: C41-MP (Sellita SW288); automatic; 41 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and moon phase
Case: 41.5 mm x 11.2 mm; steel; water resistant to 100 m
Strap: Rubber strap or steel bracele
Availability: Directly from Code41
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 3,345

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Oct 26, 2023

FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Code41 Unveils a Classical yet Captivating Moonphase appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover

Lee Sheng — Wed, 14 Feb 2024 09:00:48 +0000

Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover

Lightweight and lightspeed

News

By Lee Sheng

Feb 14, 2024

Now a best-selling model for Urwerk, the UR-100 is a no-frills – by Urwerk’s standards – timepiece that features the brand’s signature wandering satellite disc for hours and minutes. In other words, it serves as the base model, attracting many enthusiasts venturing into avant-garde time displays from independent watchmakers.

As a result, the UR-100 has undergone several iterations to cater to the diverse tastes of collectors, offering a range of materials and dial colors. However, the latest iteration introduces something new to the display. The UR-100V Lightspeed incorporates, for the first time in the lineup, a depiction of the time needed for sunlight to reach each planet in the solar system.

Travel time display

The UR-100V Lightspeed remains true to its UR-100 roots, retaining the model’s sleek case design – now made of carbon – which is slimmer compared to typical Urwerk models, ensuring wearability for a variety of wrist sizes. Additionally, it maintains the distinctive wandering hours and minutes feature, comprised of three satellite discs positioned on a carousel for hours, each taking turns to indicate the minutes on an arc scale. This display, while simpler than the brand’s satellite cube, offers an affordable glimpse into Urwerk’s distinctive independent watchmaking style.

However, the latest Lightspeed eliminates the twin astronomical display present in earlier UR-100 models. This feature indicated the distance traveled by Earth during its rotation on its own axis every 20 minutes (about 555 km) and the distance traveled by Earth as it orbits the Sun every 20 minutes (about 35,700 km). This information was conveyed through the movement of the pointer on the wandering hour disc, which rotates around the entire dial. Conveniently, the cutout is sized so that the pointer takes exactly 20 minutes to pass through it.

However, although the twin distance display is being phased out, Urwerk has introduced new astronomical information on the dial. Featured on the Lightspeed model is the time required for light to travel from the sun to each planet in the solar system. This information is determined by calculating the distance between the sun and each planet, taking into account the speed of light, which is approximately 299,792.458 meters per second – the fastest speed achievable in the universe. For instance, it can be determined that, on average, sunlight takes approximately 8.3 minutes to reach Earth.

Since the speed of light is a constant, typically represented by the symbol “c” in physics calculations, the time it takes for sunlight to reach each planet remains consistent, disregarding momentarily the variation in distance between the sun and each planet throughout the orbit cycle. This information is now displayed on the dial, constituting a fixed numerical value rather than a dynamic time display. It neither serves as an indicator nor a complication, suggesting a level of interest that is lower than the initial impression.

Controlled winding rate

Inside the watch is the UR 12.02, which consists of URwerk’s proprietary module and a base movement crafted by Vaucher, departing from earlier movements derived from a Zenith calibre. However, the UR 12.02 maintains the “Windfänger” winding system, featuring a star-shaped wheel at the rotor, which completes six rotations for every rotation of the rotor, thereby controlling the winding speed.

Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed

Movement: UR 12.02; automatic; 48 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes
Case: 43 x 51.73 x 14.55 mm; carbon and DLC-coated titanium; water resistant to 50 m
Strap: Red rubber strap with folding clasp
Availability: At Urwerk retailers
Limited edition: 50 pieces
Price: CHF 65,000

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Oct 26, 2023

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Urwerk Gives its Best-Selling UR-100V a Cosmic-theme Makeover appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The Grand Seiko SBGA497 Honors 20 Years 9R Spring Drive Movement

Lee Sheng — Thu, 08 Feb 2024 08:00:21 +0000

The Grand Seiko SBGA497 Honors 20 Years 9R Spring Drive Movement

Classic Spring Drive with a twist

News

By Lee Sheng

Feb 8, 2024

Grand Seiko made history with the debut of the Spring Drive system in 1999, and once again with its commercialization in a wristwatch in 2004. It has been 20 years since the clever hybrid system of electromagnetic and mechanical 9R movement was introduced. Naturally, this milestone calls for celebration, as expected from the Japanese watchmaker, beginning with the release of some limited editions. Among the latest commemorative watches, one example stands out: the SBGA497 “Pink Snowflake.”

Spring Drive and spring dial

Twenty years of 9R Spring Drive

It’s hard to believe, but the cal. 9R65 is actually the very first Spring Drive 9R movement that debuted in 2004 in the SBGA001 with a champagne dial and SBGA003 with a black dial. Its debut feels like just yesterday, perhaps due to its advanced technology. In fact, it is still a common workhorse found in many new Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches.

A year after the SBGA001 was introduced, Grand Seiko added the SBGA011, which is the original “Snowflake,” to its collection. That would later become the bestseller spring drive watch and perhaps even a cult watch – a must-know reference or model for Grand Seiko’s fans.

Spring blossoms

For the 20th anniversary of the 9R movement family, Grand Seiko has naturally selected the “Snowflake” as a base for design modifications, which makes a lot of sense given the widespread popularity of the “Snowflake.” The latest SBGA497 has a dial with the beautiful snowflake pattern but ironically in a spring instead of winter color – the entire dial has been clad in a cheerful, blossoming pink that adds warmth to the winter-themed pattern.

Aside from the dial, there are also a few details that got changed, but nothing is entirely new, as all the different elements have been found in previous models. There is the gold “GS” logo, which is rather common on limited editions. And more interestingly, the SBGA497 boasts a striking red power reserve hand reminiscent of the limited edition SBGA129 “Redflake” produced for the Association Japan de la Haute Horlogerie, a Japan domestic market limited edition that has gained massive popularity.

Classic design language of the Spring Drive series

The rest of the watch is just like the standard “Snowflake,” featuring elements such as the titanium case and bracelet. It’s worth mentioning that the latest models share the same case design as the inaugural SBGA001, with a wide, high-polished bevel running along the case side. Also retained are the familiar trapezoid markers at the quarters, a signature design found in the earliest Spring Drive watches as well as many modern ones.

Furthermore, the classic cal. 9R65 movement is retained. While some may have hoped for additional innovations in an anniversary model, the inclusion of the cal. 9R65 movement feels fitting, as it is the exact same movement found in the very first model of the Spring Drive wristwatch lineup.

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGA497

Movement: 9R65; automatic; 72 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, and power reserve indicator
Case: 41 x 12.5 mm; titanium; water resistant to 100 m
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Availability: At boutiques and select retailers starting March 2024
Limited edition: 1,500 pieces
Price: USD 6,300

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post The Grand Seiko SBGA497 Honors 20 Years 9R Spring Drive Movement appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Haute Couture Meets Haute Horlogerie: Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph

Lee Sheng — Fri, 02 Feb 2024 03:55:23 +0000

Haute Couture Meets Haute Horlogerie: Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph

A bold yet elegant Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon

News

By Lee Sheng

Feb 2, 2024

Le Brassus watchmaker Audemars Piguet has always been a forward-looking innovator while preserving the essence of traditional haute horlogerie. Staying attuned to the evolving world of culture and fashion, it frequently collaborates with a diverse roster of influential artists. The brand’s latest creation is a striking yet classically elegant watch, the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon “Tamara Ralph.”

A partnership formed in 2020, fashion designer Tamara Ralph has been pairing her collections with timepieces from Audemars Piguet. This fruitful collaboration has culminated in a special edition designed by Ralph herself, creating one of the boldest yet undeniably elegant women’s watches ever made. It features several defining elements, such as a large, frosted gold case and a four-stepped dial.

Boldly feminine

When the Royal Oak Concept (ROC) Flying Tourbillon debuted in 2020, it defied expectations with its unique design. Historically, the ROC lineup has been a platform for avant-garde watchmaking, prioritizing bold statements over traditional elegance. However, the ROC Flying Tourbillon challenged this perception. Despite its large case, the watch’s dramatic curves and signature frosted finish, blending seamlessly with polished and brushed surfaces, exude a surprising elegance. This combination resurfaces in the Tamara Ralph edition.

Moreover, the ROC Flying Tourbillon departs from the brand’s usual dial patterns, embracing a new design language centered on repeating concentric circles emanating from the tourbillon at six o’clock. The dial’s multi-layered construction further enhances its visual impact, evoking the grandeur of an ancient theater. Once again, this feature remains in the Tamara Ralph edition.

The key difference between this collaboration and the 2020 model lies in the color scheme. Previously, the ROC Flying Tourbillon featured contrasting colors like a blue dial against a pink or white gold case. This iteration embraces a unified golden theme, showcasing various shades on the dial that complement the case and strap, both rendered in the same hue. This cohesive approach creates a more elegant and feminine look, subtly toning down the boldness while achieving a balanced blend of masculine and feminine aesthetics.

Hand-wound tourbillon

Though it boasts an avant-garde aesthetic, the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon “Tamara Ralph” remains a traditional timepiece at its core. Its heart lies in the hand-wound cal. 2964, a modern movement offering a respectable 72-hour power reserve.

However, this movement goes beyond modernity. Notably, compared to some previous AP tourbillon movements, the cal. 2964 showcases superior design. Crucially, the six o’clock aperture avoids obscuring the tourbillon cage with motion work gears, allowing it to shine in its full glory, further enhanced by its sparkling diamonds.

The movement’s backside echoes the dial’s forward-thinking design with strong, clean concentric lines. Additionally, the relief-decorated plates contribute to the watch’s depth, mirroring the four-stepped dial’s unique character.

Rapid insights

The ROC Flying Tourbillon has been a well-designed watch since its inception, earning its high starting point. Perhaps it’s best to maintain that excellence, avoiding changes that could diminish its appeal. Designer Tamara Ralph, with her keen eye and understanding of this principle, has implemented subtle yet impactful modifications.

The latest version exhibits a clear sense of coherence and elegance, thanks to the unification of color throughout the design. For women seeking a beautiful and confidence-enhancing watch, this could be a fantastic option. However, it’s important to view it on its own merits, rather than solely through the lens of the collaboration.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon “Tamara Ralph”

Movement: Cal. 2964; manual; 72 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon
Case: 38.5 x 11.9 mm; 18k pink gold; water resistant to 20 m
Strap: Alligator strap with 18k gold folding clasp
Availability: Only at AP Houses and boutiques
Limited edition: 150 pieces

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Aug 25, 2023

FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Haute Couture Meets Haute Horlogerie: Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Hublot’s MP-10 Tourbillon Unveils a Novel Winding System

Lee Sheng — Mon, 29 Jan 2024 13:15:23 +0000

Hublot’s MP-10 Tourbillon Unveils a Novel Winding System

Sleek design and interesting construction.

News

By Lee Sheng

Jan 29, 2024

To begin the new year, Hublot introduces the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium, a timepiece with several characteristics novel to the brand. It’s first and foremost a futuristic or complicated-looking watch, but unlike typical complex Hublot that can be over-the-top in styling, the new MP-10 shows enhancement in design, marked by its sleek and tastefully executed aesthetic.

Barrel theme

The MP-10 features a central element that permeates the entire watch, from the case to the time display and movement – namely, a barrel. The repeated use of this element establishes a distinct theme for the watch, streamlining the design language into a sleek and cohesive form.

The Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium

For instance, while the case takes on a rectangular shape, it can be deconstructed into three barrels. The longest one in the middle splits the two symmetrical barrels on the sides.

In terms of time display, the hours and minutes rely on continuously rotating barrels with printed markers, guided by a fixed pointer on the dial. Just below the hours and minutes, a shorter barrel indicates the power reserve. Further down, the vertical tourbillon is topped with a short ring, which serves as a seconds indicator.

A new automatic winding system

While the design of the new MP-10 is appealing, the true innovation lies in the construction of its movement, specifically the winding system. Departing from the conventional automatic winding setup with a half-disc rotor hidden on the back, Hublot has given the winding mass a complete makeover.

Named the Weight Energy System, the MP-10’s winding system incorporates solid white gold blocks shaped like barrels. Positioned on the left and right sides of the dial, these blocks move vertically along an axis, connected to a rack for bi-directional winding. This departure from traditional circular winding is not only unique but also visible from the front at all times – an innovative approach currently under patent pending status according to Hublot.

The Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium

While the Weight Energy System efficiently winds up the barrel to provide a 48-hour power reserve, manual winding is possible using the substantial crown at 12 o’clock. It’s important to note that the crown is reserved for winding, with time setting carried out through another crown on the caseback.

The Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium

Rapid insights

The Hublot MP series is known for its cool timepieces, exemplified by the MP-05 featuring an impressive 50-day power reserve, underscoring the brand’s dedication to horological complexity. While some MP watches tend to lean towards bold and loud designs, the MP-10 charts a different course. This distinction becomes apparent when comparing it to predecessors like the MP-05, both featuring a barrel time-telling system.

The MP-10 achieves a refined balance between complexity and sleekness, arguably positioning it as one of the most beautiful MP models since the MP-03. Evolving as a futuristic, minimalist, and sophisticated timepiece, the MP-10 not only competes with notable independent watchmaking examples (price aside) but also ensures lasting appeal well into the future.

Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium

Movement: HUB9013 automatic; 48 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator, and tourbillon
Case: 54.1 mm x 41.5 mm x 22.4 mm; titanium; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Black rubber strap with titanium folding buckle
Limited edition: 50 pieces
Price: CHF 250,000

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FROM THE SHOP

Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3199-A ‘Honey Blue Flyback’

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Hublot’s MP-10 Tourbillon Unveils a Novel Winding System appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Under the Lens: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm “Turquoise”

Lee Sheng — Tue, 02 Jan 2024 09:00:20 +0000

Under the Lens: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm “Turquoise”

A luxury sports watch with personality .

Reviews

By Lee Sheng

Jan 2, 2024

In Le Brassus, Audemars Piguet had a spectacular year in 2023 with the introduction of an ingeniously complex yet user-friendly watch, nestled within the Code 11.59 collection. Noteworthy updates to the collection have drawn the spotlight away from the Royal Oak, which is just winding down from its 50th anniversary celebrations, redirecting our attention to the watchmaker’s latest creation.

Traditionally, each passing year brings forth new Royal Oaks, some in collaborative efforts and limited editions. For the year just gone, one distinct standout captured our attention – an ostensibly understated 37 mm Royal Oak, presented in full yellow gold with a turquoise stone dial.

How to pick your perfect luxury sports watch?

If you are aiming to add a single piece to your collection from this brand’s integrated-bracelet sports watch releases – setting aside considerations of accessibility – there are undoubtedly numerous factors to ponder. The essence of a distinguished collection lies in exercising restraint and selectivity, opting for only the most notable specimens. The conundrum arises: How do we distill our myriad interests into the quintessential luxury sports watch that promises years of enduring enjoyment?

The initial step in choosing the ideal watch is straightforward – identifying the iterations that resonate with you. These are timepieces that evoke genuine passion, ones you would genuinely enjoy wearing, bringing a smile to your face. It’s a straightforward process, yet easily overlooked in a world where the significant investment value of a watch might overshadow personal preference.

The Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202

The next step involves scrutinizing the watches we like, essentially to verify if they are truly well-made. This is because some – not all – of our initial impressions might evolve later on when the excitement of the initial encounter wears off. Therefore, distilling the watches we appreciate to those that are objectively well-made is crucial.

To assess a watch’s quality, several steps come into play. Firstly, a thorough examination of the design is necessary, considering how the different elements harmonize, evaluating proportions, visual depth, and the presence of details that invite prolonged admiration.

Following this, benchmarking becomes essential. Place the watch you intend to purchase alongside historically celebrated examples of the same family. For instance, this involves comparing a standard Royal Oak with the “Jumbo” Extra-Thin in as many aspects as possible. Evaluate everything from broad design strokes to the finer details like finishing on the case sides, bracelet link thickness, applied marker length and width, logo size, and the placement of the date window.

The elegant case side of the Royal Oak 37 mm “Turquoise”

This is merely an illustrative example and not an exhaustive list. Therefore, collectors should compile a checklist of details to assess and identify historical examples for comparison. For instance, the Royal Oak “Turquoise” should evoke associations with Royal Oaks with stone dials from the 20th century. To effectively compare and contrast, one must expose oneself to a diverse array of watches, attending auction previews, examining watches from friends or in stores, and scrutinizing high-resolution pictures online.

After confirming that you genuinely like a watch and have acknowledged its quality, there’s still one last consideration, a crucial factor that distinguishes the exceptional from the merely well-crafted. To be clear, if you’re merely seeking something for personal enjoyment, with no plans to acquire another watch soon and no concern for its collecting value, you can disregard this. However, if you’re a frequent watch buyer aiming to curate a collection, this is important.

The final step is to assess whether a watch possesses the uniqueness to be deemed a collector’s timepiece. There are two types of uniqueness. The first is what can be termed as “special for the sake of being special.” For instance, a distinctive dial color that’s uncommon, even though it’s technically easy to execute. Its rarity lies not in technical complexity but in the watchmaker’s intentional choice to create a sense of uniqueness.

The second type of uniqueness holds a deeper meaning. It could be something technically challenging and noteworthy or something unconventional in terms of design – a departure from the norm or tradition in a meaningful way, signifying innovation in design that remains rooted in the tradition of the lineup.

The Royal Oak ref. 14701BC with a jasper stone dial. Image by Phillips.

A pretty special Royal Oak

Cloaked in complete gold, the Royal Oak 37 mm “Turquoise” is unquestionably a highly luxurious Royal Oak at first glance. However, its distinctiveness lies in the fact that it comes in yellow gold, a departure from the more common white or rose gold. Fully yellow gold watches have not been in vogue in recent years, especially within the domain of luxury sports watches. Nevertheless, Audemars Piguet has made a small number of them in recent years, catering to a select group of collectors.

But the new Royal Oak is not only unique because of the yellow gold livery but also, and perhaps more so, because of the dial. The signature tapisserie dial has been replaced with a piece of stone. How does it stack up?

Without the intricate tapisserie guilloche pattern, the dial gains a sense of minimalism. However, it is obviously not plain or flat. The turquoise stone dial, being a material that retains its natural color and pattern, carries a depth that’s unlike any single-color dial, such as a lacquered dial in turquoise. And it also looks more natural and pleasing to the eye.

A stone dial is luxurious, and so is a yellow gold case. Together, they make a killer combo. Despite its modest 37 mm size, it’s a watch that will stand out across the room and whatever attire you have. It’s an irresistably cheerful watch that simply puts a smile on your face.

More details

Okay, the broad strokes are pretty well done. Now let’s take a look at the details.

The first detail grabbing attention on the dial is the applied logo and markers, and opinions on this may vary. On the positive side, these applied indices significantly boost legibility, especially with the markers featuring a slim line of luminescent material. Moreover, the yellow gold markers impart a sense of high quality and warmth to the dial.

However, some might argue that the markers dominate the small dial space, given the modest 37 mm case size. The length of the markers feels just right, but their width could be considered a tad excessive. As a result, the baton markers occupy a significant portion of the dial. Some may lean towards a cleaner look, preferring shorter markers, fewer of them, or even opting for diamond markers to add elegance and uniqueness. As a side note, a 2022 Phillips sale featured the Royal Oak ref. 14701 with a jasper stone dial, devoid of any markers.

Additionally, the prominent markers and logo leave the date window feeling somewhat under-decorated without a metal frame. It could be argued that the earlier ref. 14701 achieves a more balanced dial execution with just enough details.

However, personal tastes vary, and this is solely my perspective. On a more objective note, the latest iteration seems to successfully accomplish its goal of being luxurious, bold, and eye-catching. In this regard, the bold markers and logo serve as a fitting complement to the striking use of colors and materials on the case and dial.

Compact workhorse movement

Shifting our attention to the case thickness, the new Royal Oak 37 mm is approximately 1 mm slimmer than its predecessor, the ref. 15450. This reduction is credited to the new cal. 5900 housed within, making its debut last year during the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. It’s essential to note, though, that this specific variant is marginally thicker than the standard ref. 15500, making it 0.5 mm slimmer than the recently phased-out ref. 15450.

Similar to other time-and-date movements employed by Audemars Piguet, the cal. 5900 is a sports watch movement featuring a full balance bridge and free-sprung balance for enhanced timekeeping accuracy. These movements are essentially modern workhorses, known for their high quality yet efficient mass production, resulting in clean finishes largely facilitated by machinery.

What we think

With its distinctive stone dial in the fashionable “Tiffany” blue, coupled with a reminiscent yellow gold case and bracelet, it presents a combination of materials that stands out. While a Royal Oak flaunting a vibrant color dial is undoubtedly attractive, the incorporation of a stone dial elevates its appeal further. This departure from the usual steel case and tapisserie dial associated with Royal Oaks makes it notably uncommon and positions it as a potentially notable chapter in the history of the Royal Oak.

Regardless of individual preferences concerning the dial design, it undeniably encapsulates a modern and bold spirit. This imparts to it an original and contemporary identity, setting it apart from its predecessors with stone dials in the Royal Oak lineup.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm “Turquoise” specs and price

Movement: Cal. 5900; automatic; 60 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Case: 37 mm x 9.3 mm; 18k yellow gold; water resistant to 50 m
Strap: Yellow gold bracelet
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP Houses
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 61,500

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Furlan Marri

Limited Edition

Furlan Marri x Auro x Revo - Flyback Chronographs 3188-A ‘Salmon Flyback

$3,175.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Manual winding Sellita caliber AMT5100, with rose gold plating and custom bridge for Furlan Marri; 58-hour power reserve; heated blued steel screws
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Case	38mm (46mm from lug to lug); stainless steel with olive-shaped pushers for Honey Blue flyback, Taupe flyback and Tasti Tondi pushers for Salmon flyback; water resistant to 50m
Dial	Taupe, blue, or two-tone salmon and black (Revolution edition); double printed text with pulsations scale, polished applied indexes
Strap	Italian leather with quick release system
Limited Edition	270 pieces per reference + 30 collector boxes (including one of each references) in addition.

The post Under the Lens: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm “Turquoise” appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Lee Sheng, Author at Revolution Watch

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